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Of the countless times I’ve been lucky enough to visit Italy, this epic road trip with friends was one of the most unforgettable. What made it so great was that our 7-day trip in Lombardy was actually the second part of our adventure, having spent our first week in Puglia. If you have the time, this split is a great way to explore the country, as you’ll be able to experience both Northern Italy, but also the vastly different south of the country too.

During this one-week itinerary in Northern Italy – which I’ve updated a little bit based on my various visits to the region – you’ll visit Milan’s highlights, dazzling lakes, cultured cities and plenty more of the best places to visit in Lombardy.

For some, this one-week itinerary might be a bit too fast-paced. If so, you’ll ideally stretch it out into a ten-day trip (with more time on the lakes and in Milan) or cut out a stop or two to have more time in the regional capital. For those who want to maximise their vacation days and see as much as possible, you’ll find this journey fast enough to feast on many magical moments but slow enough to live the La Dolce Vita.

Don’t have a car? I’ve tried to give the best public transport or tour options I can so you can try and do a similar itinerary as possible without driving.

In general, when travelling by train in Italy and Europe, the best value fares are those booked in advance. With a variety of high-speed and slower trains serving Italy, you can usually find the right journey at the right price. I’d suggest searching for routes and tickets before travelling to secure discounts or searching for bus connections on Omio.

Here is an overview of my suggested two-week itinerary in Lombardy; you can find full details, including route, accommodation, and tips on what to see below.

Day One: Milan
Day Two: Milan
Day Three: Lake Garda and Lugana
Day Four: Mantua
Day Five: Cremona
Day Six: Lake Como
Day Seven: Bergamo (or back to Milan) / Travel day

Day One: Travel Day / Fly to Lombardy / Milan

Sleep in Milan

Day one is somewhat of a travel day and will depend on which flight you take to Italy and, likewise, which of the three airports you arrive in, Bergamo, Malpensa or Linate.

If you fly into Bergamo, you might want to see day seven of the road trip and consider visiting Bergamo before heading into Milan itself. I’ve put all the suggestions for Milan on the second day of this itinerary, so you can spread them out to suit your flight time best.

Where to stay in Milan

There are countless places to stay in Milan to suit all budgets and tastes, so I won’t make any personal recommendations as you have plenty to choose from, and I’ve stayed in so many places here, from great, to awful. I have made Milan a two-night stay on this itinerary though, so you can start off slow-paced.

Day Two: Milan

Total drive time: None | Sleep in Milan

It’s no surprise Milan, being the capital of the region and fashion capital of Italy, is the top thing to do in Lombardy. With so much to discover here, you’ll likely want to get an early start.

What to do in Milan

I’ve written about the many things to do in Milan before, as there is a lot of option here. Milan is a city that it took me a few visits to really uncover, as there are a lot of great spots around, so take a pick of your favourites:

The Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II are the best-known attractions, but go early morning if you can for photos. There are countless other churches worthy of your time in Milan, such as San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore, which is one of my favourites.

In contrast, the newer district of Milan, Porta Nova, especially around the Vertical Forest apartment buildings, offers a totally different side of the city, with lots of shopping next to the green park.

The Brera district is one of my favourite parts for restaurants and people-watching; the University Library here is also a bit of a hidden gem. Then, head to the Castle of Milan, which a lot of people somehow miss, and from here, you can walk through the park to the Triennale and the Design Museum.

End your day in Navigli, the canal district, to enjoy aperitivo hour, where food and snacks are included with the cocktail of your choice, and in many of the places here – it’s a large buffet affair.

There are a few things in Milan you’ll likely want to book ahead, such as the tickets for the rooftop of Milan Duomo – or perhaps even skip-the-line fast-track tickets in peak months. You’ll find plenty of other tour tickets for sale on sights like GetYourGuide, but for other bits, such as the theatre tour, or even the Duomo if you don’t mind the queue, it’s usually a bit cheaper to buy there and then.

Prefer a tour?

There are lots of tours available in Milan to suit any taste, but a fun one that we did was the rickshaw tour of Milan, which gave us a bit of free choice with the driver, but also a chance to learn some facts and history at a quicker pace as we weren’t staying for a full-blown city visit.

Day Three: Lake Garda and Lugana

Total drive time: 3 hours | Sleep in Lake Garda

After a whirlwind tour of Milan, it’s time to escape the busy city life and head to the peaceful shores of Lake Garda. One of the largest lakes in Italy, it actually spans three different regions, but for this Italy itinerary, I’m focusing just on the Lombardy part, which has plenty to offer.

What to do in Lake Garda

Manerba del Garda provides some amazing hiking and beach options, with the clear water lapping up against either practically hidden stone beaches or more sandy shores where watersports are available. For some of the best views, hike up to Rocca di Manerba. We used a local guide, Andrea at Millemonti, who helped us find some of the hidden beaches.

There are lots of beautiful towns and villages around the lake, but Desenzano del Garda is not only the easiest to get to but also adorable. Whether you stop here for lunch, decide to make it your base, or spend time exploring the castle and lazing on the nearby beaches, be sure to pass by.

Sirmione is likely the most famous spot on Lake Garda, thanks to the Scaligero Castle, a fortress on the peninsula with some wall remains in the water. There are also lots of lovely but quite expensive restaurants and resorts here, and at the far end of the land are the ruins of an old Roman villa.

One other idea is to visit Lugana, a wine-producing region by the lake that stretches across both Lombardy and Veneto regions.

We went to Cascina Maddalena to learn more about the vineyard but also to have a local cooking class which was very garden-to-table, and then we all got to eat together family-style, literally with the family, and it was a lovely local experience for what can feel like a very touristed area.

Prefer public transport?

If you are coming to Lake Garda by public transport, it might change where you visit. Trains from Milan to Desenzano Del Garda-Sirmione station take around 1.5 hours, and from here, you have ferries and buses onwards to Sirmione, for example. That said, I found it easy in the summer, but in the off-season, the boats weren’t running, and the buses were less regular, so keep that in mind.

Brescia is the principal city here, so a train from Milan to Brescia will also provide other options, such as a bus from Brescia to Manerba del Garda.

Where to stay on Lake Garda

I’ve made this another two-night stay, as I personally think Laka Garda is dreamy, and it’s somewhere you should relax. Sirmione is, of course, the star of the show, but accommodation is expensive here and books out fast. During this trip, we stayed in basic but welcoming apartments just outside Sirmione called Daisy Guesthouse.

On my previous visit, I stayed in Desenzano Del Garda at Hotel Benaco, which I loved, as there are excellent restaurants and gelato places nearby, and the hotel was nice and fairly priced.

Day Four: Mantua

Total drive time: 1.15 hours | Sleep in Mantua

Wow! What a city, and to be honest, I’m surprised this incredible place is somewhat off the beaten path in Italy as it’s a real treat.

What to do in Mantua

Home to the largest residential building in Europe, after the Vatican, Mantua is packed with art and architectural gems.

The city is surrounded by three artificial lakes, one coated in lilypads, and I enjoyed a sunset boat cruise through the lake looking back on the city, which was very serene.

We have to thank the Gonzaga rulers for most of the grand architecture in Mantua, whose Ducal Palace presents some 600 odd rooms. While only some are open to the public, they are an architectural feast with grand frescos and beautiful art; truly, this is the highlight of Mantua.

Impressive and worth a visit is the Palazzo Te (which has nothing to do with the drink), which also boasts some grand halls, and perhaps my favourite spot, the Teatro Bibiena, a true Italy hidden gem if ever there was one!

Lastly, be sure to try the local pasta speciality, Tortelli di Zucca, a pumpkin tortellini we sampled at Ristorante Tiratappi, which has a lovely outside deck (spray for mosquitos advised in warmer months) and was where Charles Dickens stayed in Mantua.

Prefer a tour?

If you are looking for an expert on Mantua to help you discover the best of the city, then Lorenzo Bonoldi is the man you need and runs Visit Mantua tours.

Prefer public transport?

If you get back to Brescia, you can hop a bus to Mantua, but the easiest option might be a train from Desanzo del Garda via Verona. If you’re planning to travel by train, I’d suggest learning at least the more famous Italian place names and their pronunciation – for example, Mantua is actually Mantova in Italian – to ensure no confusion when buying tickets or listening out for your stop.

Where to stay in Mantua

I loved where we stayed in Mantua, the hosts were so welcoming, and with just a few rooms in the accommodation but also lounge and dining space, it was super spacious. The rooms were also a good size, and you could see the history of the place through the frescos and wooden beams, so be sure to take a look at Le Casa del Pittore.

Day Five: Cremona – Como

Total drive time: 3 hours | Sleep in Lake Como

Cremona is a city known for its Violin heritage, being the birthplace of one of the most famed string instrument makers, Antonio Stradivari. While there is a museum here dedicated to Violins, I actually found visiting a small Violin Workshop a more exciting way to discover the musical culture of this underrated European city.

What to do in Cremona

Firstly, let’s cover one of the typical local dishes, Mostarda di Frutta, an interesting condiment of candied fruits in a spiced mustard dressing, actually much nicer than it sounds. The city is also renowned for its nougat.

Beyond the violins, there is some lovely architecture to enjoy, such as the cathedral and baptistery, and some fantastic views atop the clock tower, which stretch out into the neighbouring region of Emilia Romagna – this also could be a day trip from Bologna.

Prefer public transport?

A direct train from Mantua to Cremona is under an hour. From Cremona to Como, you’ll need to take a train back through Milan and change there.

Where to stay in Lake Como

I can personally vouch for the Hotel Metropole Suisse, which is quite upmarket option on the waterfront of Como town. For something more affordable, on my most recent summer visit, I stayed at Megaride Guest House. I’ve always stayed in Como proper, so I don’t have any personal recs of hotels around the lake.

Where to stay in Cremona

If you decide to stay the night in Cremona and are driving, the Agriturismo Cascina Farisengo, which is around 4kilometres out of Cremona, might be the perfect option as a restored country house centred around a grand courtyard.

Day Six: Lake Como

Total drive time: None or 2-3 Hours | Sleep in Lake Como

After exploring the culture and cityscapes of Lombardy, it’s time to head back to the lakes.

What to do in Lake Como

Lake Como has plenty to offer, from relaxing water-side villages of colourful houses to mountain bike trails and hiking.

This is a pretty large lake, so there are plenty of different spots to visit. You should read my guide to a weekend in Lake Como for some more inspiration.

But, for some starting points, the main sized towns are Como and Lecco, both of which have a hub of shops and restaurants and excellent transport links out to other destinations. Then you have some other beautiful destinations such as the well-heeled Bellagio, Varenna (one of my favourites) and tiny hideaways such as Nesso.

To get between the different spots on the lake, there are plenty of ferry-style boats. In summer, services are more regular, though not all villages and towns link to each other as there are different routes. These ferries are great if you just want to go between, say, Como and Varenna. But, if you want to visit a few different places along the lake in quick succession, consider one of the many Lake Como boat tours available, and see if there’s a departure which visits the villages you’re keen to explore.

If you are happy to stick with four wheels and continue your road trip through Lombardy, you’ll also be able to access other places around the lake that aren’t as regularly visited by the ferries.

Prefer public transport?

There is a network of boats going around Lake Como, obviously more in high season. There are also some buses and trains to the likes of Lecco and Varenna, so plan your route to best suit the options available I’d suggest.

Day Seven: Bergamo / Travel Day

Total drive time: Approx 2 hours (Depending on which airport)

And here we are, at the end of an epic Northern Italy itinerary in Lombardy, but there is time to fit in one last stop.

If you are flying from Bergamo, then this is a no-brainer. If you are flying onwards from Malpensa or Linate, you likely won’t want to detour to the city, but perhaps you will instead prefer to spend your last hours at Lake Maggiore, which is close to Malpensa instead.

What to do in Bergamo

The main draw of Bergamo is the Città Alta, the fortified part of the city which sits above the not quite as interesting modern part.

There are numerous viewpoints here; some reach by funicular, others at the top of buildings, with the architecture around the main square of particular note thanks to the cathedral and porticos surrounding it.

Prefer public transport?

If you are heading straight back to Milan for a flight, then from Como, you can get trains into central Milan. Have a Google at the best transport options as it will depend on which airport you are flying from. To get from Como to Bergamo, it’s often suggested to take the train back to Milan, but there is a bus a few times a day that would cut out going back into Milan.

Where to stay in Bergamo

If you decide to stay the night in Bergamo, then there is a surprisingly high-quality hostel here with dorms and privates that I’ve stayed in before. Alternatively, staying in the Citta Alta is one of the smaller B&Bs or private apartment rentals. If you have an early morning flight though, you might want to stay nearer the airport or drop off the car before exploring Bergamo.

Car hire and driving in Italy: Ensure you have your international driving permit for Italy. Car hire costs will vary between seasons, but I suggest using a car-search platform to find the best value. You won’t be going too off the beaten path on this road trip, so there is no need to have a supercharged car.

Be aware when parking for restrictions, which can change from space to space and will be marked on signs. A lot of places allow free overnight parking, but you may need to move them. Also, parts of some Italian cities have restricted zones that you may not be able to go into, even if others have – this will usually be followed with a fine letter a month later. Most of the time, signs are just in Italian, though, so keep an eye out!

Nearly four years after moving to Portugal, my feet finally set foot on the rugged, volcanic island of Madeira. Over the next few days and weeks, as I explored, I quickly realised what a mistake it had been waiting so long to visit. The photos of Madeira I’d seen online before had either been moody and foggy or cruise ships and crowded. In reality, it’s a perfect paradise that packs a lot in.

The archipelago of Madeira consists of the main island, the golden-sand beach escape of Porto Santo, and a few other islands that serve as uninhabited nature reserves.

An autonomous region of Portugal, Madeira’s location at the same latitude as Casablanca and just above the Canary Islands gives it warm weather, while the topography brings four micro-climates to the island. This is what makes it so diverse.

From the sunny south, with banana plantations and cities that climb up cliffs and mountains, to the rugged north, where waterfalls tumble down lush green cliffs coated in ferns towards natural swimming pools below. In her interior, dramatic mountain peaks dance in the clouds, and a network of walking-routes follow irrigation channels.

I only had a few ‘must-visits’ on my list when I arrived to Madeira. The famed Fanal forest which is often coated in fog, the stunning Pico do Arieiro to Ruivo route which takes you above the clouds, and a boat trip to see dolphins and whales. I saved these best till last, for the final few days of my month-long trip – but the weather had other ideas for exploring some of the UNESCO listed nature!

With a hectic storm rolling in and heavy rain, all three of these trips were cancelled. Usually, missing out on the top things in a destination would be upsetting, but over the trip, I’d found so many amazing spots in Madeira that I knew I would be coming back.

So, this is a work in progress; I’ll certainly be adding more photos of Madeira to this essay in the future – but I hope these images inspire you to see what an incredible island Madeira is, even when you take out the ‘must-visit’ and most iconic spots!

Cabo Girao Viewpoint

One of the highest sea-cliffs in the world, Cabo Girao is best admired from the coastal community of Câmara De Lobos – but the view from the top is also pretty amazing. Here you’ll find a glass-bottomed platform where you can walk out and look down on the village below, with panoramic views back to the city of Funchal.

Curral de Ferias – known as ‘Valley of the Nuns’

In 1566, pirates approached Funchal, the capital city of #Madeira, this rugged volcanic island in the Atlantic.

The nuns of the Santa Clara convent packed quickly, grabbing the treasures of the convent and forming a plan. They headed off on foot, seeking refuge in the mountainous interior of the island. A place they would know but pirates would struggle to access, and that place was here, a cauldron-shaped depression hidden from view. They climbed mountains and rough terrain to hide among these peaks.

Thus, it became to be known as ‘The Valley of the Nuns’. Nowadays, thanks to new roads and tunnels, the journey is a mere thirty minutes by car or bus from the capital. It wasn’t until 1959 that the valley was even connected to the road network.

From this viewpoint in Eira do Serrado, you can take the steep final steps of the ‘trail of the nuns’ down into the valley, where you’ll be treated to local specialities like chestnut soup and chestnut liquor, mountain swimming holes and lush green walks. It is one of Portugal’s most beautiful hikes that heads into the history of this incredible island.

Camara do Lobos

This old fishing village, now a sprawling municipality climbing up the banana plantation-coated mountains, retains an authentic atmosphere. Fishermen play cards on tables alongside their colourful wooden boats, a lively community of cafes and restaurants spill out onto the streets, and nods to Winston Churchill can be spotted, thanks to his painting trip to the village in 1950.

A walk through the quaint streets will take you past inventive street art, all made from repurposed drink cans, bringing a new lease of life to both walls and recycling. Shortly after, you’ll arrive at the ‘original Poncha bar’ serving up the island’s signature drink. Being a sugar-cane growing island, rum is also produced here, and the signature cocktail has many variations, with the most traditional version simply being rum, lemon and honey. With a nearly year-round spring-like climate, this is one of the warmest winter destinations in Europe.

Check in to a Quinta

There are countless boutique accommodation options in Madeira, and away from the built-up resort-like areas just outside Funchal, you’ll find some amazing stays with fantastic views.

I stayed at the incredible Quinta da Saraiva – a small, boutique B&B with breathtaking views over Camara do Lobos. The Quinta is beautiful, especially thanks to the hot tub and pool with their amazing views, but also because of the extensive grounds with banana plants and vines, the very friendly service, and the nice atmosphere of staying in a historic family-run Quinta.

Santana

In the north of the island, Santana is a popular spot for tourists to visit due to the traditional style of the houses that can be found here.

The “Casas de Santana” are pretty thatched houses – a traditional style of home in this part of the island from years gone by. These would have been built with straw roofs as cheaper housing, but now a collection of them are around the town as a tourist attraction, combining little shops and history lessons.

As you explore the area, you will still see houses in this shape and style, which are actually in use, not just as tourist attractions, but nowadays they are less common and often made with stone and concrete than in the traditional method. This is also a fantastic place to catch a sunrise, particularly from the top of the cable car.

Levada do Caldeirão Verde

There are many Levada walks on the island, trails which follow the old water irrigation system along narrow paths, and one of the most beautiful is Levada do Caldeirão Verde.

Starting at the Queimadas Forestry Park, where traditional thatched buildings dish out warm coffees to hikers, the trail goes past and through lots of waterfalls and greenery, before the final towering fall in a shaded area ideal for picnics.

Sao Vicente

One of the main municipalities in the north of the island, Sao Vicente, sits in a valley that opens up to waterfalls and large sea cliffs along the ocean.

One of the main reasons to photograph here is the underground volcanic caves, which sadly were closed on my most recent visit. It’s also a good base to use for exploring the north coast.

Seixal

The small community of Seixal is home to one of the most striking sand beaches on the island.

The black sand bay here offers amazing vistas of sunrise, and the bay is framed by multiple waterfalls tumbling down the green cliffs really adds to the drama. On the other side of the village are some fantastic swimming pools set into the Atlantic Ocean.

Porto Moniz

The most famous of the ocean swimming pools on the island, the relatively flat community of Porto Moniz is home to a collection of tranquil pools shaped into rocks to take a dip in.

During my visit, it was when the storm was starting, so the crashing waves and incoming winds made these photos of Madeira a little bit more dramatic than how the pools would usually look.

Ponta do Sol

In the southwest of the island, there are plenty of adorable little coastal villages to visit and photograph. One of my favourites was Ponta da Sol.

I spent a lovely day here swimming in the bay, sipping on local rum cocktails, and admiring the architecture – it felt a little bit Italian here, somewhat like a smaller version of the famed Cinque Terre.

São Lourenço

On the far southeast of the Island, the trail of São Lourenço spreads outwards from the mainland, with azul bays and green cliffs on one side, and dramatic waves on the other.

This relaxing three-hour walk takes you to vantage points of lighthouses, the deserted islands, and offers great views back across the whole of Madeira.

Funchal

I didn’t really do Funchal justice on my trip, using it in my final days as a base for day trips rather than photographing the capital of Madeira and exploring it properly.

The sprawling city spreads outwards and up the cliffs, and there are some lovely buildings to photograph here – such as the cathedral, church and markets, as well as the various forts that protected the city from pirates.

Porto Santo Island

The golden-sand island of Porto Santo is a couple of hours from Madeira by ferry but feels a world away.

The 9-kilometre golden sand beach is totally different from the mainly dark rock beaches on the main island, and it’s a popular place for relaxing and easy hikes, beach holidays and checking into an all-inclusive.

On a side note, everywhere I visited in Madeira, I visited by bus – another misconception is you must have a car here, and while it does certainly make things easier, the transport network, once understood, can get you around the island.

There are so many reasons to visit Madeira, which is why it often wins Europe’s Best Island and this year event the World’s Best Island at the World Travel Awards.

Seasonality is also a good thing to keep in mind for taking photos of Madeira, as there are different events throughout the year, with the Madeira Flower Festival and the big Carnival celebrations (in either February or March) two of the most colourful times to photograph the island. I can’t wait to go back and explore even more of this magnificent place.

Living in Portugal, I’ve always taken for granted that a short drive will deliver me to the cities, mountains, beaches and culinary gems of Spain – and if there is one destination that effortlessly encompasses all of those, it’s San Sebastián.

The star of the Spanish Basque Country, San Sebastián (Donostia in the local Basque language Euskara), and it’s hard not to fall under its spell. A city break can rarely serve up both mountains and beaches, coast and city life so seamlessly, but a weekend in San Sebastián will satisfy all of those cravings and then some.

A culinary hot spot, visitors swarm to this seaside destination to satisfy their foodie cravings with simple Pintxos (small snacks) or lavish-tasting menus. Social clubs here are swapped out for underground communal kitchens, and you’re more likely to go on a bar crawl for the food than the booze.

More than just being a mecca for those with a good palate, though, the Basque Country has a rich and unique culture, and the heritage here is a strong draw. It’s Spain but with the extra bonuses of all that the Basque Country offers, a region that spans both Spain and France. Unquestionably, this is one of the best cities in Spain .

The importance of the Basque Country culture is evident in both the local pride and the way it has been protected. Euskara is the oldest language in Europe and is used in day-to-day life and in the arts, from the tradition of Bertsolaritza (a type of sung poetry slam) to theatre and dance. It’s one of five official languages in the country – one of many surprising facts about Spain to first-time visitors. Perhaps the most simple difference that most tourists will notice, though, is tapas are out, and Pintxos are in – and these finger-friendly snacks are reason enough to visit.

Easily accessible from the UK by flight or ferry from the south of England via nearby Bilbao, it’s the perfect European beach getaway for a quick weekend break or a longer road or train trip through North Spain. Being well connected to other Spanish cities, San Sebastian is easy to reach.

So, let’s take a dive into how you can fill a long weekend in San Sebastián, and for those wise enough to stay in the Basque Country for at least a week, a few of my other favourite places in the region you should visit.

Beaches framed by verdant hills and mountains

San Sebastián sits along the Bay of Biscay, and the shimmering waters can turn from sky-blue and turquoise to sand-whipped frenzies on a windy day. In the distance, rolling hills slope to verdant mountains, and framing either side of the main beach are green spaces with incredible views.

A city that can boast three urban beaches on its doorstep, a culinary scene hard to rival, and plenty of nature and hiking up mountains or through vineyards is a rare thing. This is what makes a weekend in San Sebastián so appealing.

The three beaches of San Sebastián all offer soft butterscotch sands, with La Concha and Ondarreta almost blending into one on the curved bay, broken up by a jutting-out green groin in front of the English-style Miramar Royal Palace. On the other side of the Urgull hill sits a third beach, Playa de Zurriola.

Cyclists and joggers run along the boardwalk that links the higher points of Urgull and Igueldo on either side of the bay, whilst the waters and spacious beach provide ample space to swim or sunbathe. The waves aren’t the most dramatic you’ll find in Spain, yet it’s still a fairly popular spot for surfing.

The bay lends itself to most water sports thanks to not being overwhelming, with kayaks and occasional stand-up paddleboards sighted. For the brave, you can kayak out to the uninhabited island of Santa Clara in the middle of the bay and enjoy the views from the restaurant there. For the lazier among us, a tourist boat can ferry you over instead.

The port isn’t overbearing or packed with giant mega-yachts, which makes it feel far more relaxed and tranquil than the likes of Monaco with its concrete moorings and mega-yachts. Peaceful and serene, the waters and beaches of San Sebastián perfectly complement the old town.

On one side of the Bay is Monte Igueldo, a green-clad hill that offers the best views of San Sebastian. Burn off all those Pintxos by climbing the path to the top, or jump on board the red vintage funicular instead and enjoy the relaxed walk back down.

The sunset is a delight from up here, and there is also a restaurant and souvenir shops that are attached to the amusement park, which is a bit of a novelty. and while it may be entertaining for kids, you might want to find your preferred vantage point to enjoy the view away from the noise.

On the other side of the bay is Urgull, a second green hill dotted with trees and old fortress parts, and a castle amongst it. Enjoy the shaded walks around here for great views back down onto the port and the old town.

Heritage and history around the Old Town

Parte Vieja, the old town of San Sebastián, is a delightful and compact mix of Pintxo bars and hops. It’s wedged between La Concha beach and Playa de Zurriola, with bridges linking the two sides of the town over the river.

Packed into this area are plenty of places to enjoy Basque culture, such as the Victoria Eugenia Antzokia Theatre or the San Telmo Museum, which is dedicated to Basque culture in all its forms.

If you are lucky, your visit will coincide with the film festival in September or a chance to watch the Bertsolaritza poetry slams at the championships or general competitions.

When you aren’t preoccupied picking Pitxos off a bar top, there’s some delightful architecture in the city to admire, ranging from Renaissance to modernist, with the Belle Epoque facades particularly enjoyable.

Don’t miss admiring Donostiako Udala, the city hall, which is particularly pretty at night, or the inside of the impressive 18th-century Koruko Andre Mariaren Basilica.

Pintxos: social dining at its best

When people describe Pintxos, they sometimes confuse them with being just tapas but from the Basque region, but there is more to their story than that.

Tapas, small little dishes that are served up throughout Spain, are in their most simple form, little bites of food that are served complimentary with drinks. It comes from the verb ‘taper’, which means to cover, and these little plates were originally saucers placed on people’s drinks to keep flies away, which grew into the tradition of adding morsels of food on top of the saucer.

Over the years, the tapas scene has evolved in Spain, and while in certain places, such as Granada, the free tapas with drinks still flows, in other places, tapas has become more of an order and pay from the menu type situation.

In San Sebastián and the Basque Country, Pintxos are instead of tapas, but don’t expect these to be free – however, the often loaded small bites and plates are well worthy of parting with your pennies for.

Pintxos are so lauded, in fact, that the reason I visited San Sebastián was on assignment for Lonely Planet, who had recently named Pintxos in San Sebastián as the top food experience worth travelling for – in the world!

Pintxo bars themselves are lively places; bartenders pour the local sparkling wine Txakoli dramatically from a great height into tumblers whilst patrons eat standing, often spilling out onto the street.

The bar-top isn’t a place to rest your pint, instead, it’s stacked high with various Pintxos. From simple skewers of olive, anchovy and pepper known as the ‘Gilda’, to chunky crusts of bread adorned with cured meats, fishes or cheese, Pintxos are presented in various forms.

Simply grab a plate and pick out whichever ones look most appealing to you. Pricing is usually done by the number you have (keep the toothpicks) or by plate, and don’t miss the blackboards of specials often behind the bar; these are fresh and warm Pintxos and plates that are made to order.

Pintxo bars offer some of the most social, fun and delicious dining experiences in Europe, and hopping between different bars, often each one having its own specialities, makes the evening a fun and extended experience, sipping, nibbling and catching up with friends. The night often starts around 9 pm and continues until the early hours.

Packed into the old town of San Sebastián are countless bars, some of my favourite spots to eat when I visited were Ganbara, La Vina and for a more sit-down friendly option, Gandarias.

Culinary clubs in a city consumed by cuisine

Mouthwatering goodness in San Sebastián is certainly not limited to Pintxos, though, as it has a giant gastronomy scene to be proud of – from affordable morsels to award-winning restaurants and an almost secret-to-tourists underground world of culinary clubs.

At the last tally, San Sebastián can boast more Michelin stars per square metre than any other city, so for those who want to splurge on the finer things in life, you are well catered for.

My interest, however, was piqued by the Sociedades Gastronómicas, which are gastronomic social clubs, a slice of secret Spain if you will, as most of them are underground and only the members have the keys.

Historically, these societies were just for men, but in recent years, they have modernised and started to become more accepting and diverse in their memberships. For members, they have 24/7 access to these dining rooms, complete with spacious and well-equipped kitchens, and provide a social space to enjoy what San Sebastian residents love so much – food!

Born out of small apartments and flats with little social space, these communal areas allow for larger gatherings of friends and family with enough space to cater to and entertain the group. You might have one household boiling some fish in white wine on one side of the kitchen, whilst across the kitchen, another group roasts meat – sampling and sharing between society members is a bonus.

As part of my Intrepid Travel food tour, we were lucky enough to get access to one of these clubs, thanks to local Chef Ben, who took us to the society for a cooking class of local treats, from Pintxos to perfectly fresh seafood.

Our day started in the La Brexta market, where Ben gathered the ingredients (I’d say we assisted, but that would be a lie) from the various counters. At each stage, whether it was the fishmonger or the grocer, friendly greetings were shared between this community so linked by cuisine.

Once back in the Sociedade, we spent the following hours slowly turning these ingredients into Basque dishes; all washed down by the lightly sparkling local wine, Txakoli, or the local Basque cider.

To visit one of these culinary societies yourself, you will need to arrange a tour in advance. Either on the multi-day food trip like I did, or I found a few different options for one-day cooking classes.

Where to stay in San Sebastián?

Sercotel Hotel Europa – This is where I stayed, and it’s a very clean, modern hotel with really lovely staff. Located just back from the beach, it does not have sea views and thus is a little more affordable than some other offerings whilst being very close to everything; breakfast was great. –

Zenit Convento San Martin – If you want a bit of history during your San Sebastián stay, then this converted convent is sure to appeal. The inside of the hotel is spectacular, with arched ceilings and colourful blue and red fresco-style decorations. Some of the rooms are very modern, whilst others retain those traditional elements. It’s moments from the beach and has a pool for the warmer months.

Lasala Plaza Hotel – For beautiful views of the bay and looking back on San Sebastián and the beach, this is a great pick; the pool isn’t large, but from the water and the deck, you can enjoy great views of the bay, and there are a range of rooms, with the premium options offering sea-views.

Places such as the regional capital Vitoria-Gasteiz (the Cathedral of Santa Maria is a highlight), Hondarribia (a coastal historic town on the French Border) or Mundaka (popular for surfing on the Bay of Biscay) all offer different sides to the Basque Country, but the two I’ve written about below are, Bilbao and Laguardia were my favourites, and are in my opinion, must visits.

Where else to visit in the Basque Country from San Sebastián?

San Sebastián is a great place to base yourself for exploring more of the Spanish Basque Country, and you could easily spend a week in Spain‘s food city, San Sebastián taking day trips or enjoying a road trip around the region, spending nights in different towns so you can soak up the evening magic of all the wine and dining options.

Dive into the art and culture of Bilbao

My first visit to Bilboa was far from successful. In my early twenties, I scraped together all my money, booked a ferry, and took my partner on a bucket list trip to visit the Guggenheim Museum.

Feeling like I’d really excelled with this romantic escape, things quickly turned to disaster when I discovered on our one-night visit that the Guggenheim is closed every Monday, and we wouldn’t even get to visit the museum during our stay. A bout of seasickness sealed the fate of that trip as one I don’t often look back on.

While that relationship didn’t last, my desire to visit this impressive gallery did, so I’m super pleased that many years later, I got to step inside this futuristic-looking titanium building and appreciate the array of contemporary art inside.

The two main things I took away from that first visit, though, are: 1. Don’t try to visit the Guggenheim on a Monday, and 2. There’s a lot more to this underrated city than just the museum.

While I think a lot of the tourism chatter about Bilbao focuses on the gallery, in part because the port city with its tower-block centre is larger and less charming than San Sebastián, there’s plenty still to enjoy here. The Guggenheim didn’t just bring a new museum to the city; it brought a new lease of life.

You’ll find all the usual suspects in Bilboa: bars dishing out Pintxos, terraces packed with cafe tables, and markets with plenty of local flavours, but there are also some uniquely Bilbao attractions to enjoy.

Start the day with some snacks at the trendy Ribera Market before walking along the old streets towards Plaza Nueva. From here, head to the Baroque San Nikolas church, a good point to start the riverside walk along to the Guggenheim. The river has become a central point of life in the city, and you’ll be able to enjoy the range of architecture (including the bridges) before heading into the Museum.

In the streets behind the museum, heading towards the Moyua Plaza, you’ll find more fascinating architecture, such as the Azkuna Zentroa Cultural Centre and even the exterior of the football stadium at San Mames.

Strolling through the small streets, you’ll find galleries and crafts stores dedicated to local Basque artists, which offer further insight into the specialities of this region and the long, unique heritage that the Basque community are so proud of.

Visit the medieval walled wine land of Laguardia

Laguardia has a truly special atmosphere, and while it’s hard to pinpoint exactly why, it’s easy to say it’s one of my favourite places in the whole of Spain.

Perhaps it’s the lack of vehicles allowed to drive the historic streets of the hill-top walled hamlet which makes it so charming. At first glance, you might think that cars are banned due to the narrow roads, but the truth is far more fascinating.

Underneath these historic streets are some 240-odd tunnels, many of which now house cask upon cask of the area’s most prized product, Rioja. Quite simply, if vehicles started driving up and down these streets, they would very likely collapse.

The historic wall that surrounds the hamlet dates back to the 15th century; however, the tunnels and caves that you can see today came before the Laguardia. Originally intended as a defence, over the years, they became the resting place of wine before it was released into the world for our enjoyment. Sadly, much of the wall was destroyed in more recent wars, but tunnels remain intact.

Whilst wandering these delightful streets and filling up your whole camera roll is a joy, to really get to know Laguardia, you need to venture underground.

There are plenty of wineries to pick from, but as part of our Spain Food Tour, we visited the Bodega El Fabulista, which provided a really great oversight into the history and tunnels of Laguardia, and some delicious wines.

Doorway deception is to be expected in Laguardia, as the bulk of the magic is seven metres underneath the palace, which houses the entrance at ground level. You’ll see traditional machinery and harvesting methods in the briefing room, as this is one of the few winemakers still opting to use traditional methods even now before heading into the caves – some of the largest in Laguardia.

After seeing the four different rooms where the wine is stored before bottling, it’s time to sample the delicious wines (Los dos amigos y el Oso was my favourite) alongside local cheeses and chorizo. With the palace above having been home to the famed writer Félix María de Samaniego, there are plenty of links to fables (short stories) throughout the winery, including one linked to each wine.

Above ground, you’ll find a plethora of dining options, from window-style cafes handing little dishes to standing patrons right through to culinary geniuses dishing out multi-course tasting menus in fine establishments.

One thing all of these dining options have in common, regardless of their size, is a vast wine list, and while it might be tempting to stick with the rich Rioja reds, which mainly come from the Tempranillo grape, don’t miss out on sampling the whites which have become harder to source internationally as their popularity ebbed.

Just outside the medieval walls you’ll find Villa Lucía Espacio Gastronómico, set amongst vineyards this grand restaurant serves up a fantastic lunch tasting menu, and is a wonderful spot to soak up all the wine you’ve tasted with some local dishes.

Where to stay in Laguardia?

The hill-top town of Laguardia is fairly compact, so you have a few options within the walls. Or, you could opt to stay on a vineyard amongst the surrounding nature; two hotels really stand out to me.

Hotel Eguren Ugarte – Set in a winery against a hilly backdrop, this delightful boutique offering has breathtaking views from the wooden ceiling rooms, a vast underground wine cave, a fantastic restaurant, and even a tower. Strangely, for such a special offering, it’s ranked as a 1* hotel, which makes no sense, so if you have filters on your hotel search, you will miss it.

Hospederia de los Parajes – Located within the old medieval town, this historic pick has a 15th-century wine cellar. The charming interior has lots of surprises, with a Turkish bath cave room, exposed brickwork, and a good balance of modern amenities in the bedroom whilst keeping a traditional feel throughout the property.

Continue your journey to Logroño

Laguardia essentially marks the border of the Basque Region, as the fields of vines blend into the La Rioja region.

A short journey from Laguardia will bring you to Logroño, and if you have the time, then a night out here is well worth scheduling. The medieval centre is packed with tapas bars, and a tapas crawl (where the food takes priority over the beer, or, more likely, the Rioja in this region) is the perfect way to sample multiple tapers and flavours as the locals do.

Working your way down the popular Calle Laurel street will take your taste buds on a journey. The atmosphere on the night I was there was buzzing thanks to a local event, and the streets were packed with people in high spirits, but I imagine on most evenings, you’ll still find great energy here as people spill onto terraces from the little restaurants.

Logroño itself has a few grand buildings and attractions to visit, specifically the Cathedral, as it is also part of a pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela.

From Logroño, it’s easy enough to take a train and head to the other coast (Barcelona) or return back to San Sebastián to round off your trip, perfectly charmed by the Basque Region and all the delicious treats it has in store for you.

Take the ‘Northern Spain Food Adventure’

My visit to San Sebastián (all the above-mentioned places) was part of the Intrepid Travel Northern Spain Food Tour, which took us from cooking in local houses in Barcelona, through the Rioja wine region, and into underground dining clubs in San Sebastián before continuing through little villages in the mountains for cider and cheese visits. The tour ends in the famous pilgrimage spot of Santiago de Compostela. A fantastic 10-day experience; it was amazing not just to see beautiful places (and plenty of lesser-visited spots) but to really get to know Spain through its culinary heritage.

Relaxing on a beach, cocktail in hand, or zip-wiring through a rainforest? When it comes to honeymoons, there is no perfect blueprint to follow. Sure, that all-inclusive beach escape to the most gorgeous places to visit in Mauritius or Fiji might be someone else’s dream way of celebrating their nuptials. But if you want to turn your honeymoon into an epic adventure, there are plenty of options.

Making your romantic escape something special is the main rule for a honeymoon – a trip that is both unforgettable but also unique to your particular interests. Whether that is mountain hiking, wildlife adventures, island-hopping with the locals, or indulging in the finest things our world has to offer.

If you are looking for a unique honeymoon that is more than just a luxury island holiday, then here are some awesome ideas for a romantic escape with a twist.

Head to Dominica, the lesser-explored nature island of the Caribbean

This isn’t your average Caribbean destination; it’s an adventurers’ playground – that’s how I would summarise Dominica. If you want the climate of the Caribbean for your unique honeymoon, but awesome hiking takes priority over white-sand beaches, then the ‘Nature Island’ of Dominica might be just the ticket.

Only accessible by a little plane from nearby countries like Antigua, visiting Dominica feels like an adventure. Hike countless trails, visit dramatic waterfalls, and enjoy postcard-perfect remote beaches. Due to the volcanic nature of the island, lack of flights, and cruises staying on one side of the island, you can truly after a get-away that feels exclusive and private, perfect for a honeymoon away from it all. And if you want a heart-thumping honeymoon, this is the one. The best things to do in Dominica range from canyoning and circling boiling hot lakes to scuba diving with dolphins.

Hike through ancient Inca ruins in Peru.

For a more active honeymoon, why not visit Machu Pichu in Peru, one of the most impressive ancient sites in the world?

While permits to hike the Inca Trail are limited, there are plenty of other hiking routes in the local area. I did the Lares Trek with G Adventures, camping under star-lit skies, hiking through local settlements, and learning about other Inca ruins on the way. At the end of the trip, a glass-roofed train transported us to the dreamy village of Aguas Calientes, which is just below the famed sight.

A bonus of doing this, rather than hiking right there, is you can enjoy a good sleep and shower before visiting Machu Pichu – one way to ensure your honeymoon photos are a little more stylish than sweaty!

Experience a wildlife adventure in the Galapagos Islands

If you are an animal lover like myself, perhaps you’ll want to make your honeymoon unique by visiting some secluded destinations with magnificent wildlife. To do so, forget the traditional cruises for your honeymoon and opt for a small sailing option to the incredible Galapagos Island.

More than just a chance to see the famed locals – such as the Galapagos Iguana and impressive Galapagos Giant Tortoise – many sailings offer the chance to gain in-depth knowledge due to lessons and insights from the onboard biologists. Sailing and being at one with the ocean is one of the most romantic ways to travel, and coupling that with visiting some of the most remote and well-protected islands in the world makes for a honeymoon unlike any other.

There is a vast array of ships to choose from to travel around the Galapagos, each offering different comfort levels, islands visited, or speciality focuses – and, most importantly, price points. Use a website like Rainforest Cruises to whittle down which types of sailing and routes would suit your honeymoon best.

Indulge in traditions and heritage in rural Japan

Japan is rightly one of the most fascinating tourist destinations in the world. Amazing culture, cuisine and heritage combine here, and the charm and calm of the rural parts of the country make for a fantastic romantic escape.

Away from mega-cities like Tokyo, a much slower pace of life awaits – one dictated more by traditions than towering city blocks. The region of Kochi is one of my favourites, a lush land of crystal clear rivers, amazing hiking routes, tea farms and traditional artisans, from knife makers to paper crafters. Also, expect plenty of amazing food thanks to the coastal position – sushi, anyone? There are also plenty of wellness experiences in Kochi, Japan, perfect for a pampered and tranquil honeymoon.

The classic over-water villas, but not the Maldives

Is there anything more synonymous with honeymoons in the Instagram age than an over-water villa in the Maldives? Maybe not, but you aren’t limited to this South Asian archipelago for your honeymoon island escape.

In French Polynesia, it’s usually Tahiti and Bora Bora stealing the headlines, but there are, in fact, over one hundred amazing islands in this South Pacific nation. If you want a more lush, rugged and mountainous escape for your honeymoon than the small sandy islands of the Maldives, then Moorea is a great alternative.

Not only can you find the classic overwater Moorea villas here to tick that Maldives-esque accommodation craving, but it’s one of the more affordable destinations to do so in French Polynesia. Thus rugged volcanic island has all the sandy beaches you could dream of, rainforest hiking trails, and some fantastic scuba-diving – so you can spend your honeymoon as relaxed or active as you desire.

Plan a safari adventure to see the Big Five

Luxury lodges and bespoke tailored safari make for an epic and unforgettable honeymoon. Witness wildlife in their natural habitat, unwind under the stars at night and repeat again the next day.

Zambia, Tanzania and South Africa are all popular destinations for a Safari, but these aren’t your only options – Namibia or Botswana, for example, are ever-growing in popularity and can provide some slightly more affordable package options if you want to enjoy a Safari for your honeymoon.

Enjoy a culinary tour across Spain

Gastronomy isn’t just about eating in Spain; it’s a way of life, so combining food and beautiful landscapes into your honeymoon is a fantastic way to explore the country. It’s no wonder that the Mediterranean diet is even inscribed on the UNESCO heritage list.

My Intrepid Travel food tour across Spain was fantastic and covered some of Spain’s hidden gems and best cities. Starting in Barcelona, visiting remote mountain villages, and ending in Santiago de Compostela, this two-week tour took some of the country’s must-visit parts.

On the way through cooking classes, market visits, gastronomic cooking clubs, and vineyard and cider house tours, I learned all about the different regional flavours that make Spain such a fantastic destination. San Sebastian stole the show for me, but it also allowed me to visit other parts of the country, like the lush green mountains.

Food + Spain + Honeymoon = an ideal romantic getaway!

Road trip through Slovenia’s romantic foodie utopia – The Vipava Valley

Sustainability isn’t a buzzword in the Vipava Valley; it’s a way of life. Here, the Slovenians are tending to their beehives, sipping on fresh wines from local cellars and devouring delicious cheeses at family farms, usually accompanied by a heart-warming grin.

Welcome to the Vipava Valley, a foodie utopia served up with a degustation of luscious landscapes, adventure activities and vintage villages, all washed down from the barrels of an underground world – with wine cellars and homemade brews common in many households.

Recently awarded Slovenia’s first Michelin star, the Vipava Valley is truly a wonderful destination for foodies. Imagine rolling green hills of vineyards, almost Tuscan-like in appearance, with adorable villages, local food experiences, and plenty of adventure activities—from paragliding to longer cycle tours between wineries. Romance is very much alive in the Vipava Valley.

Witness the northern lights in a hotel made entirely of ice

Winter wedding? No problem. There are some super romantic honeymoon options towards the poles. There is no need to try and scramble for a hot island escape in the cooler months.

Imagine falling asleep under a canopy of the northern lights, with reindeer and winter wonderland adventures to keep you entertained during the day. At Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort in Finland, you can choose from some specially designed honeymoon accommodations, from igloos to suites and the famous glass-domed rooms to stare right up at the sky. You can even have your wedding here if you would prefer.

Or how about a hotel made entirely of ice? For example, Sweeden’s Ice Hotel, the world’s largest, is constructed annually until it melts away in the warmer months – a truly unique and unforgettable honeymoon destination.

Take a campervan adventure through the beauty of New Zealand

New Zealand is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever visited and offers a whole host of amazing natural activities for newlyweds to enjoy. From epic hikes to unique geothermal attractions and breathtaking beaches to fjords and wildlife. Couple this with some fantastic museums, filming locations, and cultural activities, and you’ve got a fantastic trip through the world down under.

Exploring New Zealand from Auckland to Wellington and then onto the south Island by campervan is unsurprisingly a popular option. Over two weeks (or ideally longer), you could hop between the highlights and take in the most popular attractions. Is there any better commitment to formalise ‘I do’ than living the van life for a few weeks?

Dedicated to Silvia: The star of Bologna and now a star in the sky x

‘‘A little bit of a bread, a little bit of Mozzarella?’ Chiara called back to our eager faces as we nodded, excitedly wetting our palates with some local Lambrusco and counting down the minutes until we sampled our first Emilia Romagna meal. The food was as good as the regions reputation promised, the company a perfect accompaniment, and we laughed throughout dinner until our bill was deposited, momentarily wiping away our joy at what was meant to be an affordable first meal in Bologna.

A little bit of everything extra had turned into a lot of extra Euros, and we laughed again, this time at Chiara’s sales skills and our easy fall into the upgrade scam. We couldn’t hold a grudge though, not here in Bologna, a city as loving and warm as the complimentary Limoncello shots we were gifted by Chiara on our departure.

It was the only time I felt cheated in this captivating yet somewhat underrated European city. For the locals of Bologna are some of the most liberal, kind, and friendly you will meet in Italy, or dare I say the world. Bologna is a city that reels you into its never-ending maze of Porticos, but the prize in this maze is getting blissfully lost, and ideally never finding your way out.

Two visits to this city in six-months shows just how much Bologna clawed its way into my heart: from the unbelievably cheap daily delicious pizza slices to the epicurean dishes in family-run Osterias, Bologna fed me well – this is one of Europe’s most famous food destinations for good reason. But it also fed my soul: the intricate frescos in the western worlds oldest University, the imposing towers with their unforgettable views, the 40-kilometres of Porticos which feel like an inside-outside gallery, Bologna is a city that you feel as much as you visit.

I can wax lyrically over this city I could easily call home for hours at a time, but I’m sure you’d rather know how to make your own weekend visit to the culinary capital of Italy just as special. Here are my favourite things to do in Bologna, and from these, I’m sure you can build the perfect three day trip to Bologna… and do tell her I’ll be back soon.

Two visits to this city in six-months shows just how much Bologna clawed its way into my heart: from the unbelievably cheap daily delicious pizza slices to the epicurean dishes in family-run Osterias, Bologna fed me well – this is one of Europe’s most famous food destinations for good reason. But it also fed my soul: the intricate frescos in the western worlds oldest University, the imposing towers with their unforgettable views, the 40-kilometres of Porticos which feel like an inside-outside gallery, Bologna is a city that you feel as much as you visit.

I can wax lyrically over this city I could easily call home for hours at a time, but I’m sure you’d rather know how to make your own weekend visit to the culinary capital of Italy just as special. Here are my favourite things to do in Bologna, and from these, I’m sure you can build the perfect three day trip to Bologna… and do tell her I’ll be back soon.

Bologna One Day Itinerary

From Michelangelo’s sculpture work to Morandi’s paintings, Bologna is a city you could easily spend days enjoying the art and architecture off – in fact, in the Emilia Region alone there are 13 UNESCO sites, so be sure to enjoy those that are in the city.

For day one, let’s start with some of the highlights, and some gelato because it’s a totally suitable food-group to build a whole lunch out of when in Italy!

Piazza Maggiore

Set in the centre of the old town, Piazza Maggiore will forever be one of my favourite places in the city to people watch, sip on a local Lambrusco, or sneak off into the small streets nearby for a breakfast or to buy some local goods.

Here, medieval palaces sit alongside Romanesque cathedrals, and there are a few sights you can enjoy on the square itself.

Start inside the Basilica di San Petronio, which dates back to the 14th-century and is the most important church that Bologna has to offer. the most important church in the city hailing back to the 14th-century, it’s also one of the largest in Europe. Be sure to head inside, and while outside, you’ll likely notice it was never fully completed – with the marble at the bottom turning into plain brickwork higher up.

Also on the square, you’ll find Palazzo dei Banchi, a 16th-century palace, and turning through the archways here is one of my favourite streets, Via Pescherie Vecchie, 1 – ideal for a quick breakfast bite at one of the cafes.

WHERE IS BOLOGNA?

Bologna is the capital of the Emilia Romagna region, in Northern Italy. It’s roughly halfway between Verona and Florence. Getting here is easy, as Bologna is well served with connections to multiple destinations throughout Europe, and UAE and Morocco direct to its own airport, Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport. Please remember for those travelling into the Schengen zone from 2022 you will require an ETIAS, the new European Travel Authorisations. For those travelling from further afield, Florence, Milan and Venice central train-stations are linked in around 90-minutes to the city.

Gelato or Food Tour

There are countless food tours you can take around Bologna, so now is the right time to do one. It’s an ideal walking introduction to the city, and most the food tours will give you an idea of where you might want to re-visit, an insight into facts and history, and perhaps most importantly, a taste of what Emilia Romagna has to offer.

The Gelato Tour might not seem the most obvious pick, but if you love the Italian ice-cream as much as I do, I highly suggest this one.

Pizzeria Due Torri for lunch

This low-key take-away pizzeria near the two towers is one of my go-to places for a quick bite in Bologna. The no-fuss setting, quick service, and delicious yet criminally cheap slices are worth grabbing to enjoy on one of the benches outside in the shadow of the towers, our next stop.

The Two Towers

The iconic symbol of the city, you’ll need to book a ticket in advance and be ready to climb a lot of steps, to truly appreciate the two towers

Leaning, one of them in-fact actually has more of an angle than the more famous leaning tower of Pisa, and from the top, you’ll get an incredible birds-eye view over Bologna. Yes, you’ll need to climb nearly 500 steps to get close to 100 metres above the city, but the views will be worth it. Be aware, it can get very narrow inside, so it might not be suitable for everyone.

Piazza Santo Stefano for Aperitivo

Next up, head towards another wonderful square, Piazza Santo Stefano. On the way, there are some beautiful churches to visit, such as the Church of Saints Bartholomew and Cajetan and Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro, before admiring the Abbazia Santo Stefano, a Convent and one of the most magnificent buildings in the city for me.

It should be getting close to Aperitivo time, the hours when drinks flow with free snacks and dishes to accompany them, a northern Italian tradition. To make it local to Emilia Romagna, you might opt to swap your Aperol Spritz or Negroni for local wine, like Lambrusco or Sangiovese.

Dinner at L’osteria dei Grifoni

For dinner, I suggest taking a 15-minute stroll around the back of the old-centre to L’osteria dei Grifoni, though you might need a map to find it.

This wonderful family-run restaurant is on a side-street, where a few steps will take you to the semi-underground restaurant. Menus are all in Italian, if there even is a menu, you might just be given a choice of the daily pasta’s and dishes to choose from.

Everything we ate here on two visits was sublime, and the host and candle-lit interior coupled with wooden bench seating make it an approachable and affordable dinner option.

Bologna Two Day Itinerary

Admire Bologna University and walking tour

The oldest western university in the world, Bologna University – The Alma Mater Studiorum – unsurprisingly doesn’t just sit in one orderly building but instead spreads out across various magnificent settings across the city. This makes for a nice walking trail which will bring you past lots of beautiful streets and attractions that aren’t necessarily connected to the university.

Some of the must-visit spots include the anatomical theatre, an all-wooden theatre that was used for teaching anatomy students, and the impressive library, which will literally take your breath away.

Palazzo Poggi, the Spanish College and Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio are stops well worth a visit as you walk the streets, and remember, this isn’t just a part of history, but students are still lucky enough to learn in these incredible settings even now.

A night at the theatre

The Teatro Comunale di Bologna is a masterpiece of design. An imposing entrance, lush red seating, grand balconies – a picture-perfect theatre. If you can secure tickets for a performance here then I highly recommend it.

Bologna has UNESCO listing as a city of creativity and music and where better to soak that in than this setting. Opened in 1763 and designed by renowned Antonio Galli Bibiena it’s worth visiting even if not for a show, you can try to join a tour on certain mornings by booking the night before.

Dinner at Trattoria Ana Maria

This institution of a restaurant, with walls coated into photos of previous patrons, including a few celebrities, will always hold a dear place in my heart as it’s where I enjoyed my final meal with Silvia, a true star of the Emilia Romagna tourism industry who sadly passed away.

Personal attachment aside, this slightly more upmarket restaurant, though still complete with traditional decor, served up dish after dish of delicious food – don’t forget you can have more than three courses quite happily in Italy! The lasagne was fantastic, as was the ragù tagliatelle (never call it, or compare it to, our embarrassing Bolognese version) and the desserts were sublime.

Enjoy drinks in Ghetto Ebraico

Nearby the to the theatre, this super cool neighbourhood is perhaps my favourite place to enjoy an evening drink in Bologna. The laughter and conversations more than spills out onto the street, so just find a bar or two that you like the look of and enjoy.

Bologna Three Day Itinerary

Eat everything at Fico EATLY world

Emilia Romagna is sometimes referred to as the home of food, with culinary genius running in the blood of this region. From Parma Ham to Parmigiano Reggiano, Balsamic Vinegar to aforementioned Ragú, there are numerous dishes that the region hold claim too.

While on a longer visit to Emilia Romagna you could head to other cities and regions to sample the local cuisine, for those just here for a long weekend Fico EATLY world provides an answer.

Some will love it, others will think its cheating and might prefer to spend their last day hopping on quick trains to the likes of Parma itself, but this huge food ‘theme park’ just outside the city centre gives you the change to taste various Protected Designation of Origin flavours in one place.

You can dip into one of the small production rooms to see how items are made or take classes, wine-tasting, and gelato workshops. It also covers food from regions outside of Emilia Romagna and the whole country. Expect to spend a while here – it’s so vast you can actually hire bikes to cycle around the inside the building or visit the farms and outer sections. Make sure you’ve got some empty suitcase space to bring all the goodies home.

Finestrella

Once back into the centre (you might have walked or taken the bus to Fico, you’ll likely walk past one of Bolognas worse kept secrets, Finestrella.

Bologna used to have lots of canals, and in fact, many of these do still exist but have simply been built over, or hidden behind walls. The Finestrella window allows you a glimpse into this Venice like past through a small viewing spot onto one of the prettiest canals still open in the city.

Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca

In the afternoon, head to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, some 300-metres above the city. You can take public transport there, or walk (an hour-ish) with the little tourist train a popular option as it leaves straight from Piazza Maggiore.

The Sanctuary is situated outside the city-centre, raised up on a green area with great views looking back to the old town. If you climbed the tower, you’ll have seen it in the distance. As well as being a notable place of worship, the beautifully curved construction offers wide vistas from the viewing platform, which you can enter for a few euros, or just walk around the buildings lower levels and grounds for free.

A stroll through the Porticos back to town

It’s rare I get to this part of an article when writing about Bologna without mentioning Porticos multiple times. These UNESCO covered archways are all over Emilia Romagna, and other parts of Italy, but the city of Bologna boasts over 40-kilometres of them alone!

The walk back down to the city centre is really pleasant through the porticos the whole way, with some lovely buildings to pause and photograph on the route.

Depending on when your flight is, you might want to stay at the Sanctuary for sunset and walk back down as the sun is setting, a really lovely end to three days in Bologna.

There are, of course, many more museums, galleries and attractions in Bologna that you could squeeze in and around this itinerary. I’ve purposefully left this relatively loose so you don’t have to rush and can embrace the relaxed, liberal pace of life in this University City.

One thing I’m confident on is that no matter how you spend your time in Bologna, you’ll be hard pushed not to come away singing her praises – enjoy!

Where to eat in Bologna

While I’ve detailed some of my favourite places to dine above, you truly are spoilt for choice when it comes to food in Bologna. Be sure to check off all the amazing food experiences in Emilia Romagna, whether in the city or beyond.

Where to go after Bologna

After exploring Bologna I highly suggest you discover some more of the Emilia Romagna region. Brisighella, a dreamy village of towers and olive oil is one of the best day trips from Bologna, while some of the smaller cities in Emilia Romagna such as Modena, Ferrara and Parma make fantastic day trips from Bologna.

Accessibility in Bologna

Bologna is an old city and has countless attractions, so it would be hard to give in-depth advice here. Many of the main attractions give accessibility details on their website and the team at Bologna Welcome, the tourism board, have a great website which discusses accessibility in the city.

The volcanic island of Nisyros in Greece was one of my most unexpected and unplanned trips of the year. I didn’t even know I was going to Greece until I got invited there on a second date after meeting someone at the Edinburgh Festivals two weeks before. A little tipsy and always keen to explore somewhere new – especially only having visited Athens previously – I dutifully booked a flight to the island of Kos and headed off on a Greek escapade.

Sadly, the romance never blossomed, but I did replace it with a new lover: Nisyros Island.

Now one of my favourite off-the-beaten-path gems in Europe, this small and sulphurous island was much sleepier than some of its more famous neighbours. You only need to look at a Crete, Mykonos or Santorini travel guide these days to know that the big ‘bucket list’ isles are crowded, so if you’re seeking a more serene experience, a somewhat less popular island like Nisyros might be just the ticket.

But it’s not just fewer crowds that make this rocky island so special. No, it’s the various calderas that gurgle in its heart. Around the edge, alluring whitewashed villages with those signature blue frames play home to close-knit communities. In the middle of the island, you’ll find the space-like landscape where the crater of this active volcano bubbles away – and yes, you can take your adventurous ass right down into it, sulphur fumes and all.

For many, Nisyros Island is a day trip, usually from Kardamena, a small resort town in Kos, where I spent the week. However, for those who want to experience a little more of Nisyros Island, then I’d recommend staying for a few nights on this unique and beautiful island.

There are a few different villages around the edge you could then explore at your own pace, but even just taking some downtime on the black sand and rock beaches or reading a book with a Greek coffee along the waterfront is a holiday enough.

Nisyros Island struck me as somewhere an artist would come to paint or a writer would come to craft their words. It had ‘that’ vibe, whatever that may be, and it felt like the perfect place to escape the tourist crowds that descend on Greece, even during my peak August visit. However long you plan to spend here, here’s what you should know, alongside how to get to Nisyros from other places in Greece.

Things to do on Nisyros Volcanic Island

Thanks to the location of the island in the Aegean Sea, volcanic activity is a common occurrence around here. Thus, it’s no surprise that the highlight of a visit to Nisyros might centre around this. But here, this little gem of the Dodecanese islands has some other treats up its sleeve, so there are some different ways to enjoy your travels to Nisyros island.

Visit the Stefano volcanic crater

This is the headliner. No visit to Nisyros island would be complete without venturing into the Stefanos volcanic crater itself, the largest on the island.

The active volcano hasn’t erupted in well over one hundred years, and here you can walk around the rim and take in the almost space-like scenery before taking the short walk down into the crater.

Buses regularly ply the drive from the main port to the crater, especially during the late morning and early afternoon hours that bring the day trippers here from nearby Kos. There isn’t much in the centre, other than a cafe which provides some shade and snacks to visitors waiting to be shuttled back to the villages.

If you head to the village of Nikia, you’ll find some great viewpoints looking down to the centre, but also the Volcano Museum, which provides some facts and context into Nisyros.

Marvel at the Monastery

The most impressive sight on the island for me was the 14th-century Panagia Spiliani Monastery, which is housed mainly in a cave on the rock face of the island.

Looking down on the village of Mandraki, you can climb the nearly 300 stairs to the monastery and admire the views of the island before heading inside the duo of churches with their whitewashed exterior.

At ground level, the courtyard of the monastery is home to some nice, well-shaded cafes, and behind the monastery, you can continue to a black rock beach with aggressive waves.

Meander through Mandraki village

The main village of the island is Mandraki, which is home to the port as well. As such, this will likely be the busiest of the villages and certainly seems home to the most accommodation options.

That said, even in August, it wasn’t exactly overflowing, and it was easy to find empty tables with excellent views to enjoy a coffee at.

The village, indeed, isn’t large, but a maze of small alleyways with scooters slowly passing by kittens lounging in the sun provides ample photographic opportunities. This very much feels like Greece from years gone by, with plastic chairs outside, blue framed doors, and a little staircase leading up to porches.

Breezy beers on the waterfront

The waterfront of Mandraki has a few bars and restaurants running along it, and with the salty breeze of the ocean hair, and the occasional spray from the crashing waves, it’s a relaxing and therapeutic place to enjoy a local beer, coffee or of course, delicious Greek meal.

My happiest moments on Nisyros were spent here, reading a book, enjoying a coffee and listing to the waves and seagulls overhead. There is no abundance of nightclubs or heavy-hitting venues here, so you can truly soak up the Greek charm in a mostly tourist-free atmosphere.

Venture to the other villages

A trio of other communities make up the inhabited parts of Nisyros, each providing a similar yet slightly different vibe.

The whitewashed buildings and blue plant pots are consistent, but the villages of Pali, Emporios and Nikia are well worth venturing to if you have more than a day on the island. Nikia is likely the best place to head to as it offers some great views of the volcanic crater.

Take a thermal spa dip

Thanks to the volcanic makeup of the island, hot springs are another big draw to Nisyros, and thanks to the relaxed and remote location, it would make for an ideal wellness retreat. I can only imagine these healing thermal spas are another reason the island was, and still is, so popular with artists and creatives.

Brave the black rock beaches

Being a volcano, many of the beaches here are black rocks and with not much else around, the waves come crashing in hand.

That isn’t to say there aren’t more sheltered, sand beaches to relax on, but the wild ways of the rocky shores made for another perfect place to settle in with a book and unplug my headphones, opting instead to have the crashing sounds of mother nature distract me from the modern world.

Hike the island’s trail

Nisyros is a dream for hikers, with plenty of well-trodden paths to explore between the villages and more remote natural wonders. I didn’t have time to undertake any myself, but the small tourism office at the port has a map detailing some of the more popular routes.

Take a boat trip to Giali

Between Nisyros and Kos, you’ll find the island of Giali, another volcanic island with a unique makeup of pumice and lava domes. It is still used as a pumice mine, but you can venture here on a boat trip, although I opted not to as first-hand reports hadn’t made it sound worth the time investment.

Need to know: Nisyros Island

Here are a few tips and insights to make planning your visit to Nisyros a little easier, but as always, remember to find your own discoveries.

Where to stay on Nisyros on a budget: Wild camping in Greece seems to vary from region to region, and although I could not find a definitive answer, it appears on Nisyros it is allowed, although I can’t confirm this 100%.

For those looking for a cheap bed on Nisyros, though, the Haritos Hotel offers twin/doubles out of season for around €30 a night with a swimming pool and location close to the port to reduce transfer costs.

When to visit Nisyros: It’s a fantastic destination from spring through autumn, but to avoid peak summer, I’d suggest this as one of the best places to visit in April in Europe.

Where to stay on Nisyros like a baller: The Old Traditional House is also located close to the port, but this delightful private apartment provides a more intimate and personal place to use as a base while exploring the island.

In general, it seems there is limited accommodation in Nisyros, so booking in advance is highly recommended.

How to get to Nisyros: I took a boat from Kos Island and the port/resort town of Kardamena. Kos airport is served by international flights, including from the UK, and domestic flights from within Greece. Other smaller ports offer seasonal boat connections to Nisyros.

Italy’s food scene is (deservedly) celebrated the world over, and the best Italian experiences often start and end at the table. No matter if it’s provincial pasta shapes and southern seafood platters or wood-fired pizzas and hearty northern mountain, the results are always mouthwatering. Here, in Emilia Romagna — arguably the country’s culinary cradle — it’s particularly true, and combining magnificent architecture and laid-back countryside with an epicurean adventure is effortless.

Surprisingly, however, many international visitors to Italy don’t know the importance of this gastronomic region — a startling situation given that many regional products and recipes are globally exported or household names.

So, if you’ve already chowed down on Naples’s fantastic pizzas, hopped between the best street food places in Rome, and sunk your teeth into Sicily’s delicious dishes, it’s time to dive into the best of Emilia Romagna’s food experiences. Here are some fanastic dishes, interesting food tours, and famed local products to hunt out as you explore Emilia Romagna, or as I like to call it: Europe’s home of food.

1.Always Ragù, never Bolognese

While Bolognese sauce is a go-to in the Anglicised world, we are very much getting it wrong – and I don’t mean just the name!

Bolognese may share a moniker with Emilia Romagna’s capital city, Bologna, but around these parts, it’s always Ragù – so don’t utter the dreaded B word here.

Ragù is a richer and thicker sauce, which has more meat and additional carrots and celery. Dating back to the 18th century, this staple is most often served on Tagliatelle. It’s a far cry from the ‘spag bol’ that is something of a British dinner-time staple.

Tortellini, a stuffed and almost circular pasta, is also from the Emilia Romagna region, but I suggest these with different ingredients than ragù — stick with Tagliatelle, or even a lasagne, to let the sauce truly shine.

2.Olive oil tasting is the new wine tasting

Italian Olive Oil is a staple in kitchens around the world and with good reason. I actually learnt during my food tour of Spain, though, that some of the Olives are grown in Spain as Italy simply can’t keep up with the demand.

Take yourself on an Olive Oil tasting tour while you are in Emilia Romagna, one of the dreamiest and best places to do so is in the adorable medieval town of Brisighella. Famed for its flavour due to the unique variety of olive fruit produced locally (helped by the low climate‚, the small stores in the village will happily fill you in on the facts and let you sample its unique flavours.

In various greens and golds and a mix of spices and bitter flavours, tasting olive oil turned out to be quite an art. Many swear by sampling it straight from your hands and then sniffing your skin as the PH levels act as a neutraliser. While bread is one way to do it, those in the know told me the bread ruins the tasting of the flavours of the oil.

3.Tour the cheese factories of Parmigiana Reggiano

If you are a cheese lover, then this might be the best foodie activity you’ll ever do.

Parmigiana Reggiano is a protected name, only able to be given to this type of cheese produced here in Emilia Romagna, mainly around the Modena and Parma regions.

Here you can see how the cheese is soaked, produced, set and stored, and in the storerooms, you’ll be amazed at the racks and rows of cheese wheels, perfect for a cheeky Instagram. The process usually starts quite early in the morning, so to see the full way of traditionally producing Parmigiana Reggiano, book an early morning tour.

4.Taste the country at FICO Eataly World

Some call it heaven, others call it hell, but whatever your views, this new foodie theme park in Emilia Romagna is a big deal.

Located a short bus ride or drive outside the city of Bologna, here you’ll find a sprawling mix of buildings, farmland, factories and classrooms.

At FICO, you can literally eat your way around the country, with the various stands at the giant food market supplying all the Italian goodness you could dream of. You can dip into one of the small production rooms to see how items are made, which is ideal if you are on a Bologna city break and can’t venture out for a full tour. Classes, wine-tasting, gelato workshops; whatever Italy foodie fantasy you can think of, it can be played out here.

To give you an idea of FICO’s size, you can actually hire little bikes to get around it!

5.Eat “Parma Ham” in its home

If you are a fan of charcuterie boards, then Prosciutto is likely something you’ve had on your palate before. But Prosciutto di Parma (Parma Ham) is, of course, from right here in the Emilia Romagna region.

If you want to sample this delicate, sliced and cured meat at its source, then head to Emila Romagna’s second city, where you’ll find plenty of windows packed with this premium cut.

While there are some tours you can join in the city, which will take you on tastings or perhaps out to meet the makers, you can also just choose to explore the gorgeous Old Town and stop for samplings (or takeaways for picnics) from one of the city’s prosciutteria.

6.Pour yourself some Lambrusco

The Lambrusco grape is, of course, the main ingredient of Lambrusco wine, a lightly sparkling, usually ruby red wine that hails from the Emilia Romagna region, although it is also grown in Lombardy.

The primary sources of Lambrusco wine are around the cities of Parma, Reggio-Emilia and Modena, so visiting the vineyards here is the best place to sample it at its root.

7.Learn about Modena Balsamic Vinegar

The true Balsamic vinegar also hails from here, and the Modena PDO (protected designation of origin) will always hold the trademark on the label.

Balsamic vinegar tasting is quite a thing here, with some traditional vinegar having been aged up to 50 years.

I visited the oldest producer of Modena Balsamic Vinegar, Giusti, and took a tour of the estate which was fascinating. The family have owned and operated here since the 17th century. If you take a tour, you’ll learn the various stages of production and ageing, stored in a similar way to wines.

Older vinegar is thicker and sweeter and makes a surprisingly good topping to an ice-cream dessert. If you enjoy lunch at the restaurant on site after the tour, you’ll be able to sample the vario

8.Enjoy some raw ‘crudo’ fish

Not to be confused with Sushi from Tokyo, the crudo, or in this case, Pesce Crudo (raw fish), is perhaps best enjoyed in the seaside city of Rimini.

Fishermen have been consuming raw fish here for years, enjoying their catch with lemon or another marinade, and the tradition still lives on to enjoy this treat al fresco with the ocean breeze as a company. If you venture to Emilia Romagna, do sample the Crudo, something somewhat different from a Ceviche or Sashimi.

9.Sip and snack at Aperitivo Hour

Across northern Italy, as the day winds to an end, there is no better way to relax than enjoying Aperitivo hour(s). Thankfully, this is also true in Emilia Romagna, even though the tradition likely hails from Piedmont and is now most associated with Milan.

Somewhere from 6 pm onwards, friends, lovers, families and strangers come together to enjoy a delicious cocktail, whether it’s an Aperol Spritz, Negroni or other.

Included in the Aperitivo price is food, which may range from some finger bites to a full-blown buffet. In Emilia Romagna, my favourite place to indulge in this must-be-tested tradition was Piazza Maggiore, and I highly recommend you do the same.

9.Enjoy a bottle of Barbarossa wine

The Barbarossa grape hails originally from France and the Liguria region of Italy but has also been grown in Emilia Romagna for some years.

This fruity red, or often rosé wine, is, therefore, a great one to sample in the region and pairs well with the gastronomic treats you’ll find on every corner here.

10.Get on a Gelato Tour

Now, this is my idea of heaven, and although I wasn’t able to join an official Gelato tour, I had fun doing my own.

The official Gelato Tours of Bologna was raved about by my friend Rachelle, who told me the guided city walk took in multiple flavours, plenty of history and gelato-based facts, and of course, lots of gelato gorging.

Ranging from modern stores with new-fangled flavours to the oldest Gelato store in Bologna, this is the perfect way to tantalise your taste buds in the beautiful old city centre.

11.Hunt out the little gems and embrace €1 pizza slices

The streets of Bologna make for a world of food discoveries, some in plain sight and many well hidden. What you’ll struggle to find here, though, is, thankfully, a bad meal.

Some of my favourite pizza ever was eaten on the streets of Bologna, and costs are much more favourable from a window vendor here than a fancy restaurant in Rome. Pizzeria Due Torri is a staple recommendation for me, where huge slabs of pizza can be enjoyed cheaply with the best view of the city, located just alongside the two leaning towers.

Down side streets, even in residential areas, you’ll find plenty of small, family-run restaurants that may not look like much from the outside, but down little staircases or behind closed doors, a treat awaits.

Menus are often seasonal and sometimes just verbal. If you find somewhere without an English list and a handful of options presented by the server, you are likely in for a tasty treat; Osteria dei Grifoni was one of my favourite finds.

12.Sample the Sammarinese cuisine

But of course, inside the Emilia Romagna region is another country; San Marino. Completely surrounded by Italy, this republic is also home to its own flavours and productions, and a little side trip is a must when you are here.

Nestled between the regions of Andalusia and Valencia, the Region of Murcia in Spain has somehow managed to stay under the radar to international tourists, when compared to the hoards of tourists that visit nearby Alicante or Granada. But, that doesn’t mean it has less to offer, it just means it is lesser-visited – and for those of us who enjoy our travels without the crowds, the Region of Murcia provides an attractive destination.

With a capital city of the same name, people can sometimes be confused that Murcia is just one spectacular city when it is, in fact, a region. A region which offers all of the best of Spain in close proximity. The seemingly never-ending beaches along the Costa Cálida coastline, the fascinating Roman history and ruins in Cartagena, the incredible value tapas and wine routes – everything you would want from a Spanish vacation can be found right here. With the launch of new direct flight routes last year to the region’s airport, it’s also much easier to access than ever before.

So whether you want to relax in an all-inclusive, or head off on an intrepid road trip to the most arid corners of the Murcia landscape, here are just some of the best reasons to go to the Murcia Region, and best of all, you could even combine them all into a road trip. Find my easy to follow highlight itinerary at the bottom of this post to explore this slice of secret Spain.

1.Be amazed at roman history in Cartagena

While Murcia is the capital of the region, the city that most impressed me was the port-city of Cartagena.

There is a lot of history to indulge in here, which isn’t surprising as it dates back to 220 BC, with countless Roman ruins and attractions to admire which span hundreds of years.

Of particular note are the restored Roman Theatre, an amazing structure which incredibly I managed to book an apartment with a balcony basically overhanging it, and the Roman Forum, one of the largest city-centre Roman excavation site in Spain. For history buffs, there are countless museums here, from nautical to murals, covering anything from defensive rules to recently found roman artefacts – it could easily be a city break in its own right.

2.Relax on more than 250km of Costa Cálida coastline

The region of Murcia is renowned for its Costa Cálida, 250km of sunny coastline, which offers wide beaches with all-inclusive resorts, to smaller coves and caves with hardly any visitors.

The coastline isn’t just all about relaxing and sunbathing, although it certainly can be. Alongside plenty of water sport options, there are a few unique attractions along the coast.

Just over the border towards Alicante sits Torrevieja, where a bright pink lake can be found. In the Salinas y Arenales Park you’ll also find salt pans, and pink waters, alongside windmills. Following along the coast you’ll reach the unique looking Batería de Castillitos, a 1930s military battery which presents as a castle on the rocks. Continue to Bolnuevo beach, home to some fascinating rock formations, carved out over hundreds of years from sandstone.

3.Sample the fantastic local wine on the Murcia Wine Route

Hop between uncrowded wine cellars, indulge in lavish tasting and pairing menus at reasonable prices, and meet first-hand the wine-makers of this arid, dry region – the micro-climate very much giving the grape its unique flavour.

Spanning across the municipalities of Yecla, Jumilla and Bullas, this wine route will take you from traditional underground cellars to modern and funky wine producers. It’s fair to say that Monastrell has become one of my favourite wines – it’s the only wine I regularly get imported to enjoy at home.

Wine events are held year-round depending on the season. From one of the longest harvests in Spain (usually late August to early November) to Tapas Months and Easter Celebrations, timing your visit to the Murcia Wine Route to include one of these events is very advisable. Either way, there are countless vineyards and tasting rooms to visit – you can find some of my favourites on my Murcia Wine Route guide. A little tip, while some wineries offer tours in English you might want to learn some Spanish online before your trip.

4.Great value and quality cuisine and tapas

As well as the fantastic wine in the region, the culinary offering is also impressive – and at a fraction of the price compared to more touristed destinations.

Regional specialities include Alcachofas de la Abuela, which translates to Grandma’s Artichokes, a simple dish seasoned with wine, pine nuts and bay leaf, and Caldero Murciano, a rice and fish dish prepared in a cauldron-like pan. The regional specialities are simple, yet delicious, and the restaurants offer some of the best value Spanish cuisine I’ve ever tasted. A €40 wine pairing menu in Barahonda an absolute start of my visit.

Tapas is also well represented here, with lots of seasonal events such as the Yecla Tapas Trail, where you can bar hop and sample a local dish and wine for around €2.

5.Bask in the grand architecture of Murcia City

The capital of the region, Murcia City would make for a great two-day city break, and could also be used as a base to explore the region on day-trips.

With a young and exciting energy to the city, driven I assume in part by the university population, the relatively compact pedestrianised centre is a joy to walk around.

The impressive cathedral can rival those in other major cities, combining Baroque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture, while other highlights include the Bishops Palace, a pastel red building with a beautiful courtyard, and the Islamic masterpiece tiling inside the Roayl Casino of Murcia, a members club which has some of its best rooms and features open to the public.

6.Enjoy Spain with fewer crowds

I think it’s fair to say that Murcia certainly doesn’t suffer from over-tourism in the same way as Barcelona does. While in the know locals head to the beaches here to escape some of the more popular tourist resorts overtaken by international visitors, the sheer length of the coastline and the plentiful amount of authentic villages means everyone can find their place here.

My visit in Spring meant visiting the vineyards was a near private experience for tastings, and there were never any crowds in any of the attractions or museums – the should seasons are just as attractive as the summer months, which brings me to my next reason to visit Murcia.

7.Year round warm climates

It’s likely fair to say most places in southern Europe are attractive options to Brits after a long winter, but thanks to its geography and location, Murcia is actually home to a few different micro-climates. Inland this means scorching hot summer days, creating the arid looking interior, but freezing cold winters. All of this is what gives the grapes and wine such a fascinating taste.

For the coast though, the temperature of Murcia remains warm-ish throughout the year, although Spring to Autumn is still the best time to visit. While Summer brings temperatures closer to the 30c, even in the shoulder-season you can expect to be around 17-20c, a tempting offerer compared to the British weather during these months!

8.Slow down with rural agri-tourism

Agriculture has always been a huge focus in the Region of Murcia and is an impressive achievement given the arid soil. In the 17th-century orchards starting to convert to vineyards, however, it’s still often called ‘Europe’s Orchard’ due to the sheer number of fruits grown here.

The Almond blossoms provide a colourful sprinkle to the region in Spring, while the harvest here, which can last as long as from August to November provides a coating of greenery and grapes across the countryside from the low hanging Monastrell grape which grows outwards, rather than upwards.

Spain has been a little slower than Italy to entice visitors for the slow agri-tourism concept, but it’s certainly possible here in Murcia. With plenty of cool accommodation options, from staying in a windmill in an orchard, to a rural home amongst a vineyard, you can quickly slow down and become one with nature far away from others.

9.Bathe in natural thermal springs

Murcia has started to become quite well known as a wellness destination. Yes, there’s plenty of Vietnam D on offer, but there are also plenty of spa hotels and accommodation across the region.

The natural thermal springs are in various spots, in more natural settings or in spa-circuits, and these can be combined with the muds of Mar Menor, where high saline levels make them suitable for therapeutical treatments.

10.City, culture, coast and cuisine on one road-trip

There is a lot to experience in the Region of Murcia, so if you are like me and enjoy a few days on the beach, but then quickly get board, you can easily combine all of this into a road-trip – allowing a good blend of city, coast, culture and culinary treats during a one-week road trip of Murcia, see my suggested route below.

There are also plenty of adventure activities to be enjoyed in the region, providing even more reasons to visit Murcia. Cueva del Puerto for example is a huge underground cave and rock formation, spanning more than 700-metres long. Other outside activities, such as mountain biking or hiking trails are readily available, while rafting in the Almadenes Canyon is both picturesque and a great adventure.

One week road-trip itinerary

If you want to try and experience as much as possible of the Region of Murcia during your holiday, here’s a sample one-week Spain itinerary by car to enjoy your time here.

Day One: Arrive and Relax

• Arrive to Murcia Regional Airport (or transfer with Solhop from Alicante airport)
• Check into a coastal resort for two nights
• Popular options are southern-most adorable village of Águilas, the sunny bay resort of Mazarrón, or the Cartagena coast if you want to be closer to the city with varied landscapes

Day Two: Beach Day

• Spend the day road-tripping along the coast and exploring some popular spots
• Head to The Enchanted City Of Bolnuevo to visit the Bolnuevo sandstone rock formations
• Drive a further 45-minutes past pretty bays to the imposing Batería de Castillitos
• Enjoy various bays and beaches along the coastline

Day Three: Cartagena

• Drive to Cartagena, and check in to the Cartagena Apartments with amazing views of the Roman Theatre
• Spend the day exploring the top attractions in the city. The Roman Theatre, Roman Forum, Conception Castle, the Punic Wall and the ruins of the Cathedral
• Enjoy a fantastic meal at Restaurante Casa Cassciaro, or grab tapas and wine in Bodega la Fuente

Day Four: Lorca

• Drive four around one-hour from Cartagena to Lorca
• On the way stop off at Quitapesares Terrace and Sanctuary for a visit and a coffee looking across at the city of Murcia
• Once you arrive at Lorca, check into the Parador de Lorca, actually part of the castle above the city
• Explore the castle complex, including the remains of the Synagogue actually underneath the hotel
• Head down into Lorca centre to visit some amazing museums, such as the Archilogical Museum with Roman artefacts, the muBBla Museum to see the amazing white and gold chapel, and the Paso Azul museum to learn about Semana Santa, the Easter traditions and outfits.

Day Five: Wine Route – Pick your prefered vineyards and ideas from the below three wine destinations

• From Lorca, drive to Bullas in around one hour
• Enjoy a coffee and walk through town, then visit the Wine Museum to learn about the local grape
• Head to Lavia Winery to admire orchards and enjoy a wine tasting
• Next, drive for around an hour to Jumilla, to visit Casa Rojo Winery for a tour and tasting menu lunch
• If there is a designated driver, continue on to Jumilla castle, then Yecla for the evening – or stay in Jumilla nearby
• Drive Jumilla to Yecla in around thirty minutes
• Have a wonder through the town, admire the Basílica, then pop to Castaño Winery for a tasting of their 100% Monastrell wines
• Barahonda Winery is the perfect place for another tasting menu lunch, great value and fantastic service
• If you have a designated driver head back to Murcia city (around one hour) or book to stay in Yecla and enjoy the local tapas restaurants

Day Six: Murcia

• Spend the day in the capital city of Murcia visiting some of the top attractions
• Start in Cardinal Square, visit the Cathedral and climb the tower for the best views, before heading to the Bishops Palace next door
• Head to the Santa Clara Monastery for some history
• Enjoy a delicious lunch at one of the many authentic local restaurants
• Visit the incredible Real Casino of Murcia to admire the ballroom, library and islamic tiling
• Enjoy a show in the spectacular Murcia Theatre

Day Seven: Murcia & Departure

• Spend the last day enjoying whatever activities you haven’t had time for

Central Bohemia is a land that sounds equally charming and cryptic. A region rich in castles, hauntingly beautiful countryside, and deep valleys flanked by dense forests. Of course, the mystery fades away slightly when you learn the administrative centre of the region is Prague, one of the best city-break destinations in the world.

But take the short hop from Prague, and you’ll be transported deeper into the history and intrigue of the Czech Republic. One that shouldn’t be overlooked when visiting the capital.

If you’re as intrigued by unique architecture and uncommon attractions as I am, then a Chapel of Bones is certain to pique your interest. A mere hour by train from Prague and you’ll arrive at Kutna Hora. Close to the edge of the Central Bohemia region, this old silver mining city makes for a perfect day trip, although an overnight stay will allow you the time to visit nearby Třebešice Castle and the charming town of Cáslav.

It was a dark winter’s day when I arrived at Kutna Hora. The clouds were dramatic and imposing. It was a perfect climate to set the stage for my first port of call, the Sedlec Ossuary.

Sedlec Ossuary: the chapel of bones

Situated in the suburbs of the city, underneath the cemetery of the former Sedlec Abbey, the Sedlec Ossuary is one of the most Europe’s most unique destinations and religious sites.

Nicknamed the ‘Church of Bones’ – which doesn’t leave too much to the imagination – a rather bland entrance will take you to this creepy cave-like setting.

Here, in the chapel, a very unique type of decoration can be visited. Some 40,000 human skeletons adorn the walls, ceiling and pillars. Arranged into chandeliers, towers and even coats of arms, it’s quite overwhelming, even if the nickname has somewhat prepared you for what you’ll see.

Taking centre stage, so to speak, is the vast hanging chandelier. Reportedly containing at least one of every bone that we humans have in our bodies, it’s certainly a claim that not many light fittings can make.

But why, I hear you ask?

Well, for that, we need to take a little history lesson – back to the days of Bohemia. Nearly 800 hundred years ago, the Abbot of this very abbey was sent to Jerusalem by the then Kind. On his return, he brought back a particular souvenir: a jar of soil.

This soil wasn’t just dirt, though; it was ‘Holy Soil’—thus creating a surge in those who wanted to be laid to rest in this very spot. With soaring numbers, the cemetery was expanded, and with it, the church was constructed. The basement of this church became Sedlec Ossuary, a space to house the ever-growing number of bones. Fast-forward to the 19th century, and the bones were rearranged into the current situation we can see today.

It’s certainly a bizarre sight to bear witness to. But the belief is these bodies wished to rest in the space of the ‘Holy Soil’ – and here they continue to.

The UNESCO St Barbara’s Cathedral

With a slight chill in the air and arguably in my soul, I continued my tour to St Barbara’s Cathedral.

On the approach to the Cathedral, walking past the grand Jesuit College, statues of angels and sad faces loom over you to the left as the imposing Cathedral gets ever closer – adding to the eerie atmosphere of this fascinating destination.

One of the most famous Gothic churches in the world, it’s magnificent from every angle, both inside and outside. It’s made even more interesting due to the work which has taken place on it over hundreds of years, blending Baroque features from its restoration, all of which earned its place on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Inside, vaulted ceiling and delightful frescoes, painting a picture of the old mining days await. It’s a true masterpiece, and honestly, while my travel through Europe often has me a bit fatigued by churches and cathedrals, sometimes they can still genuinely make my jaw drop.

What else to experience in Kutna Hora?

While Kutna Hora may sound like a haunted place of dramatic stories and creepy chapels, the city itself is actually very inviting.

Warm and welcoming cafes serve up cappuccinos and local plum cakes while greenery and trees spread out into Bohemia. Venture inside the old neighbourhoods will allow you to experience more of the city.

The Italian Courtyard, once the Royal Central Mint of Prague until a fire put an end to that, is home to a grand palace and, nowadays, the town hall and a minting museum. Dating back to the 14th century, it was once a castle, complete with a moat, where the town’s silver would be stored. You can enter the museum and the royal chapel to witness the history – the interior of the chapel is particularly impressive.

Inside the Jesuit College, next to St Barbara’s, is now the Central Bohemia Gallery, housing a collection of 20th and 21st-century art. The Early Baroque architecture of the building is another dimension to admire alongside the exposition, especially in the halls with the frescoes still exposed on the ceilings.

More than anything, though, a day trip to Kutna Hora provides the chance for a change of pace. With the capital, one of the (deservedly) top city destinations in the world, the smaller regional cities and towns offer a chance to slow down, wander without crowds, and take a more authentic look at the Czech Republic than you’ll likely find in the touristy beer-halls off Prague’s Old Town Square.

If you have an interest in unique architecture and bone-chilling stories, then Kutna Hora is the one for you – or perhaps you want a spa-town escape steeped in history; in that case, consider visiting Karlovy Vary or the lake and castle-adorned South Bohemia region to see another side of the country.

Like a child let loose in their first toy shop, the novelty of wandering around Karlovy Vary, armed with a porcelain mug in search of hot-spring waters, excited me no end. Coming across these water fountains doesn’t just provide the warming sensation of taking a sip but warms the soul, too.

These simple springs serve as a congregation point for communities to come together for chatter while gaining some much-needed heat on the snow-covered winter days. For child-like visitors such as myself, eager to be part of the Spa Cup crew – even if only for a few days – they provide curiosity with a ready-made souvenir.

Nestled amongst the dense forests and rivers of West Bohemia – not to be confused with castle-heavy South Bohemia – Karlovy Vary has long provided tourists with treats of springs and spas – in fact, it was created for that very purpose. With the promise of relaxing waters and wellness benefits, this European spa town has grown over the centuries to become one of the most picturesque and famous spa destinations in the Czech Republic and across the continent.

The story takes us back to the 14th century, when the Czech King stumbled upon a spring while hunting for deer and wanted to capitalize on the water’s uniqueness.

Over the years, many famous names have visited what Karlovy Vary has become today. An almost impeccable mix of grand spa hotels, public baths, forests, intricate architecture, captivating colonnades and towered buildings rise up and down the hills in and beyond this underrated European city. It’s not just a spa destination where you simply check-in and relax, although that is very much possible, it’s a city of culture and creativity, her beauty shining from any angle.

I’ve never really been a ‘relax at a spa get-away’ kind of guy. I’m restless and avoid pampering, much more comfortable wandering for hours on end getting blisters rather than bath bombs. My preferred interaction with locals leans more toward a chat about local culture or politics at a bus stop than in silence, face down on a massage table.

Thus, I surprised myself when I decided to visit Karlovy Vary as a side trip from the Prague Christmas markets. Scrolling through the seemingly never-ending choice of outstanding spa hotels online, I finally plumped for a grand and traditional-looking building on the outskirts of the city. With a lush-looking wellness centre attached, forests on my doorstep, and the delightful streets of Karlovy Vary a short drive away, it seemed I was very much about to become that ‘relax at a spa get-away’ kinda guy.

Checking in to Retro Riverside Wellness Resort

Essentially a custom-designed spa destination, Karlovy Vary has no shortage of beautiful spa resorts. I’d toyed with the reasonably priced Parkhotel Richmond before opting for the extremely good value Retro Riverside Wellness Resort – drawn in by the fairy-tale architecture of the building.

While it is slightly outside the city, this meant it felt like a true escape. Dense trees packed around the hotel, while it had direct access to the river – a small pier being home to little boats, which in the summer months offer visitors the chance to see the destination from another viewpoint. If you’re coming to visit Europe in January, then you’ll also find some great promo deals here.

The food was fantastic, as was the service – the Italian restaurant makes for a great evening meal if you don’t want to venture outside by dark. The rooms were modern and peaceful and came with balconies – I had been tempted to book a suite in the tower, with a corner bathroom overlooking the views, but decided that was a bit excessive for someone who isn’t a ‘relax at a spa get-away’ kinda guy.

The spa itself though turned out to be an absolute highlight, the pool was peaceful, while the actual spa-circuit and the additional warm water pools perfectly decorated – managing to balance traditional with modern features well.

Okay, looks like I might be becoming a spa get-away kind of guy after all – but on to equally as important stuff, what to do in Karlovy Vary itself.

Get acquainted with the Spa Cup concept.

Perhaps you are used to souvenir shopping at the end of your trip. Well, in Karlovy Vary, it should be first on your list, as that souvenir will come in handy quickly.

Porcelain is a big thing around here, and the delightful porcelain spa cups which line the racks and shelves of local shops and stores are a regional spa-town institution.

The unique design of these spa cups means there is a spout attached, which starts close to the base of the cup – imagine if a mug and a teapot had a small child, and you get the (very strangely described) picture.

It’s with these cups you’ll be able to warm yourself from the hot springs throughout the city. Simply pull it out from your pocket and place it under the spring for a warm drink (be careful; some of these waters are extremely hot). Also, if you’re like me (hello British people) then you might start keeping tea-bags in your pocket too. How many places in the world can you brew your own cup of tea from a spring in the centre of a city? This is a truly special, lesser-visited destination in Europe.

Most of the central springs are under the city’s colonnades. There are quite a few fountains around, and the temperatures seemed to vary slightly between each spring. The design of each one varied.

Admire the architecture while being soothed by water

Not content with wowing us with waters, Karlovy Vary is also an incredibly beautiful city. The architecture is grand, intriguing, and non-uniform, with buildings in various styles next to each other, creating this unique layout.

Most of the architecture in the city is either neo-Baroque or neo-Renaissance, and the historic centre is compact to explore by foot – mainly following the Tepla River, which flows down the centre of the pedestrianised area. Porticos and arcades provide cover from the elements if needed.

Many of the most beautiful buildings are spa hotels or thermal pools. Other grand structures, such as the Baroque Church of St. Mary Magdalene, are impressive in and out.

The Mill Colonnade is perhaps the city’s most famous, with the spring underneath here seemingly popular with the locals. However, my interest was more in the Market Colonnade, carved from wood in Swiss style, and the Park Colonnade, crafted from cast iron, transformed into a concert hall.

Speaking of concerts, the Karlovy Vary Theatre, which opened in the late 1800s, is spectacular, inside and out (especially in some of the entrance hall areas). Do try to snag tickets for a performance or pop your head in just to see the decor.

Visit the city centre Spas.

If you decide to opt for a hotel that doesn’t have its own spa facilities or simply want to try a different spot, you have various options in the city centre.

The Elizabeth Bath is perhaps the one to visit. The grand building is over one hundred years old and offers many wellness treatments alongside the hot spring waters.

Further along, an imposing concrete (almost brutalist-looking) building with a thermal pool overhanging the city might be a nice photo spot in summer; just don’t look behind you at the eye-sore.

Head high for the best views

While the city is absolutely dreamy at street level, strolling along the Tepla and sipping on your Spa Cup, for some of the best views, you’ll need to head higher up.

The backstreets of the city themselves offer some delightful scenery and also give access to pretty side streets and staircases to many viewpoints.

The Deer Jump Lookout is so named because of the statue of a deer, and here you’ll be able to capture some wonderful photos down on the city and admire the incredible opulent Hotel Imperial, one of the most expensive and renowned hotels in the city which sits high above Karlovy Vary.

One of the most famous lookout spots in the city is the Diana Tower. However, I was being cheap and didn’t want to take the funicular and pay entrance, so I skipped it. However, I’d misunderstood that it was only a few quid for the cable car, and it’s accessible on foot if you don’t want to do the funicular. So, I messed up there and wish I had, as the photos look fantastic, as you can see just how hidden away in the forest Karlovy Vary is.

“Who has not been at the Diana Observation Tower has not seen Karlovy Vary” is a saying from their marketing department, and it turns out they might have been right!

Visit in Spring for the cherry blossoms

While I loved visiting in winter, just before Christmas, when the festive decorations and snow made the city feel really magical, I saw some photos of Karlovy Vary during the spring, and it also looks very beautiful. Dotted around the city and on some squares during this time, you’ll be able to see the cherry blossoms, adding even more colour to the cityscape.

Getting to Karlovy Vary

If you haven’t hired a car for your trip to the Czech Republic, no worries, you can easily get from Prague to Karlovy Vary by public transport. In this instance, take a bus or coach over the train, as the route is more direct, frequent and quickest. There is public transport in the city, and many of the hotels and spa resorts outside the centre offer transfers in and out.

Looking for more day trips from Prague? How about visiting UNESCO Kutna Hora for its unique architecture – including a chapel of bones!