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  • Madeira in photos: 40 postcards from Portugal’s island of eternal spring

    Madeira in photos: 40 postcards from Portugal’s island of eternal spring

    Nearly four years after moving to Portugal, my feet finally set foot on the rugged, volcanic island of Madeira. Over the next few days and weeks, as I explored, I quickly realised what a mistake it had been waiting so long to visit. The photos of Madeira I’d seen online before had either been moody and foggy or cruise ships and crowded. In reality, it’s a perfect paradise that packs a lot in.

    The archipelago of Madeira consists of the main island, the golden-sand beach escape of Porto Santo, and a few other islands that serve as uninhabited nature reserves.

    An autonomous region of Portugal, Madeira’s location at the same latitude as Casablanca and just above the Canary Islands gives it warm weather, while the topography brings four micro-climates to the island. This is what makes it so diverse.

    From the sunny south, with banana plantations and cities that climb up cliffs and mountains, to the rugged north, where waterfalls tumble down lush green cliffs coated in ferns towards natural swimming pools below. In her interior, dramatic mountain peaks dance in the clouds, and a network of walking-routes follow irrigation channels.

    I only had a few ‘must-visits’ on my list when I arrived to Madeira. The famed Fanal forest which is often coated in fog, the stunning Pico do Arieiro to Ruivo route which takes you above the clouds, and a boat trip to see dolphins and whales. I saved these best till last, for the final few days of my month-long trip – but the weather had other ideas for exploring some of the UNESCO listed nature!

    With a hectic storm rolling in and heavy rain, all three of these trips were cancelled. Usually, missing out on the top things in a destination would be upsetting, but over the trip, I’d found so many amazing spots in Madeira that I knew I would be coming back.

    So, this is a work in progress; I’ll certainly be adding more photos of Madeira to this essay in the future – but I hope these images inspire you to see what an incredible island Madeira is, even when you take out the ‘must-visit’ and most iconic spots!

    The view Cabo Girao across to Funchal

    Cabo Girao Viewpoint

    One of the highest sea-cliffs in the world, Cabo Girao is best admired from the coastal community of Câmara De Lobos – but the view from the top is also pretty amazing. Here you’ll find a glass-bottomed platform where you can walk out and look down on the village below, with panoramic views back to the city of Funchal.

    A rainbow across the Valley of the Nuns

    Curral de Ferias – known as ‘Valley of the Nuns’

    In 1566, pirates approached Funchal, the capital city of #Madeira, this rugged volcanic island in the Atlantic.

    The nuns of the Santa Clara convent packed quickly, grabbing the treasures of the convent and forming a plan. They headed off on foot, seeking refuge in the mountainous interior of the island. A place they would know but pirates would struggle to access, and that place was here, a cauldron-shaped depression hidden from view. They climbed mountains and rough terrain to hide among these peaks.

    Thus, it became to be known as ‘The Valley of the Nuns’. Nowadays, thanks to new roads and tunnels, the journey is a mere thirty minutes by car or bus from the capital. It wasn’t until 1959 that the valley was even connected to the road network.

    From this viewpoint in Eira do Serrado, you can take the steep final steps of the ‘trail of the nuns’ down into the valley, where you’ll be treated to local specialities like chestnut soup and chestnut liquor, mountain swimming holes and lush green walks. It is one of Portugal’s most beautiful hikes that heads into the history of this incredible island.

    The view from Coral Restaurant in Camara do Lobos

    Camara do Lobos

    This old fishing village, now a sprawling municipality climbing up the banana plantation-coated mountains, retains an authentic atmosphere. Fishermen play cards on tables alongside their colourful wooden boats, a lively community of cafes and restaurants spill out onto the streets, and nods to Winston Churchill can be spotted, thanks to his painting trip to the village in 1950.

    A walk through the quaint streets will take you past inventive street art, all made from repurposed drink cans, bringing a new lease of life to both walls and recycling. Shortly after, you’ll arrive at the ‘original Poncha bar’ serving up the island’s signature drink. Being a sugar-cane growing island, rum is also produced here, and the signature cocktail has many variations, with the most traditional version simply being rum, lemon and honey. With a nearly year-round spring-like climate, this is one of the warmest winter destinations in Europe.

    A relaxing stay at Quinta da Saraiva

    Check in to a Quinta

    There are countless boutique accommodation options in Madeira, and away from the built-up resort-like areas just outside Funchal, you’ll find some amazing stays with fantastic views.

    I stayed at the incredible Quinta da Saraiva – a small, boutique B&B with breathtaking views over Camara do Lobos. The Quinta is beautiful, especially thanks to the hot tub and pool with their amazing views, but also because of the extensive grounds with banana plants and vines, the very friendly service, and the nice atmosphere of staying in a historic family-run Quinta.

    The beautiful renovated main building at Quinta da Saraiva

    Santana

    In the north of the island, Santana is a popular spot for tourists to visit due to the traditional style of the houses that can be found here.

    The “Casas de Santana” are pretty thatched houses – a traditional style of home in this part of the island from years gone by. These would have been built with straw roofs as cheaper housing, but now a collection of them are around the town as a tourist attraction, combining little shops and history lessons.

    As you explore the area, you will still see houses in this shape and style, which are actually in use, not just as tourist attractions, but nowadays they are less common and often made with stone and concrete than in the traditional method. This is also a fantastic place to catch a sunrise, particularly from the top of the cable car.

    Levada do Caldeirão Verde

    Levada do Caldeirão Verde

    There are many Levada walks on the island, trails which follow the old water irrigation system along narrow paths, and one of the most beautiful is Levada do Caldeirão Verde.

    Waterfalls along the Levada path

    Starting at the Queimadas Forestry Park, where traditional thatched buildings dish out warm coffees to hikers, the trail goes past and through lots of waterfalls and greenery, before the final towering fall in a shaded area ideal for picnics.

    Sao Vicente at sunset

    Sao Vicente

    One of the main municipalities in the north of the island, Sao Vicente, sits in a valley that opens up to waterfalls and large sea cliffs along the ocean.

    One of the main reasons to photograph here is the underground volcanic caves, which sadly were closed on my most recent visit. It’s also a good base to use for exploring the north coast.

    Seixal

    The small community of Seixal is home to one of the most striking sand beaches on the island.

    The black sand beach of Seixal

    The black sand bay here offers amazing vistas of sunrise, and the bay is framed by multiple waterfalls tumbling down the green cliffs really adds to the drama. On the other side of the village are some fantastic swimming pools set into the Atlantic Ocean.

    Stormy weather hits the natural swimming pools

    Porto Moniz

    The most famous of the ocean swimming pools on the island, the relatively flat community of Porto Moniz is home to a collection of tranquil pools shaped into rocks to take a dip in.

    During my visit, it was when the storm was starting, so the crashing waves and incoming winds made these photos of Madeira a little bit more dramatic than how the pools would usually look.

    The village of Ponto do Sol in Madeira

    Ponta do Sol

    In the southwest of the island, there are plenty of adorable little coastal villages to visit and photograph. One of my favourites was Ponta da Sol.

    I spent a lovely day here swimming in the bay, sipping on local rum cocktails, and admiring the architecture – it felt a little bit Italian here, somewhat like a smaller version of the famed Cinque Terre.

    The trail out to Ponta de São Lourenço

    São Lourenço

    On the far southeast of the Island, the trail of São Lourenço spreads outwards from the mainland, with azul bays and green cliffs on one side, and dramatic waves on the other.

    This relaxing three-hour walk takes you to vantage points of lighthouses, the deserted islands, and offers great views back across the whole of Madeira.

    The local market in Funchal

    Funchal

    I didn’t really do Funchal justice on my trip, using it in my final days as a base for day trips rather than photographing the capital of Madeira and exploring it properly.

    The sprawling city spreads outwards and up the cliffs, and there are some lovely buildings to photograph here – such as the cathedral, church and markets, as well as the various forts that protected the city from pirates.

    Porto Santo island, with various peaks, as seen from the ferry

    Porto Santo Island

    The golden-sand island of Porto Santo is a couple of hours from Madeira by ferry but feels a world away.

    The 9-kilometre golden sand beach is totally different from the mainly dark rock beaches on the main island, and it’s a popular place for relaxing and easy hikes, beach holidays and checking into an all-inclusive.

    Sunset on the 9km golden beach in Porto Santo

    On a side note, everywhere I visited in Madeira, I visited by bus – another misconception is you must have a car here, and while it does certainly make things easier, the transport network, once understood, can get you around the island.

    There are so many reasons to visit Madeira, which is why it often wins Europe’s Best Island and this year event the World’s Best Island at the World Travel Awards.

    Seasonality is also a good thing to keep in mind for taking photos of Madeira, as there are different events throughout the year, with the Madeira Flower Festival and the big Carnival celebrations (in either February or March) two of the most colourful times to photograph the island. I can’t wait to go back and explore even more of this magnificent place.

    The golden beach of Machico on Madeira

  • How to Spend a Weekend in San Sebastián and The Basque Country

    How to Spend a Weekend in San Sebastián and The Basque Country

    Living in Portugal, I’ve always taken for granted that a short drive will deliver me to the cities, mountains, beaches and culinary gems of Spain – and if there is one destination that effortlessly encompasses all of those, it’s San Sebastián.

    The star of the Spanish Basque Country, San Sebastián (Donostia in the local Basque language Euskara), and it’s hard not to fall under its spell. A city break can rarely serve up both mountains and beaches, coast and city life so seamlessly, but a weekend in San Sebastián will satisfy all of those cravings and then some.

    A culinary hot spot, visitors swarm to this seaside destination to satisfy their foodie cravings with simple Pintxos (small snacks) or lavish-tasting menus. Social clubs here are swapped out for underground communal kitchens, and you’re more likely to go on a bar crawl for the food than the booze.

    More than just being a mecca for those with a good palate, though, the Basque Country has a rich and unique culture, and the heritage here is a strong draw. It’s Spain but with the extra bonuses of all that the Basque Country offers, a region that spans both Spain and France. Unquestionably, this is one of the best cities in Spain .

    The importance of the Basque Country culture is evident in both the local pride and the way it has been protected. Euskara is the oldest language in Europe and is used in day-to-day life and in the arts, from the tradition of Bertsolaritza (a type of sung poetry slam) to theatre and dance. It’s one of five official languages in the country – one of many surprising facts about Spain to first-time visitors. Perhaps the most simple difference that most tourists will notice, though, is tapas are out, and Pintxos are in – and these finger-friendly snacks are reason enough to visit.

    Early morning at La Concha beach

    Easily accessible from the UK by flight or ferry from the south of England via nearby Bilbao, it’s the perfect European beach getaway for a quick weekend break or a longer road or train trip through North Spain. Being well connected to other Spanish cities, San Sebastian is easy to reach.

    So, let’s take a dive into how you can fill a long weekend in San Sebastián, and for those wise enough to stay in the Basque Country for at least a week, a few of my other favourite places in the region you should visit.

    Beaches framed by verdant hills and mountains

    San Sebastián sits along the Bay of Biscay, and the shimmering waters can turn from sky-blue and turquoise to sand-whipped frenzies on a windy day. In the distance, rolling hills slope to verdant mountains, and framing either side of the main beach are green spaces with incredible views.

    A city that can boast three urban beaches on its doorstep, a culinary scene hard to rival, and plenty of nature and hiking up mountains or through vineyards is a rare thing. This is what makes a weekend in San Sebastián so appealing.

    The three beaches of San Sebastián all offer soft butterscotch sands, with La Concha and Ondarreta almost blending into one on the curved bay, broken up by a jutting-out green groin in front of the English-style Miramar Royal Palace. On the other side of the Urgull hill sits a third beach, Playa de Zurriola.

    Cyclists and joggers run along the boardwalk that links the higher points of Urgull and Igueldo on either side of the bay, whilst the waters and spacious beach provide ample space to swim or sunbathe. The waves aren’t the most dramatic you’ll find in Spain, yet it’s still a fairly popular spot for surfing.

    The bay lends itself to most water sports thanks to not being overwhelming, with kayaks and occasional stand-up paddleboards sighted. For the brave, you can kayak out to the uninhabited island of Santa Clara in the middle of the bay and enjoy the views from the restaurant there. For the lazier among us, a tourist boat can ferry you over instead.

    The port isn’t overbearing or packed with giant mega-yachts, which makes it feel far more relaxed and tranquil than the likes of Monaco with its concrete moorings and mega-yachts. Peaceful and serene, the waters and beaches of San Sebastián perfectly complement the old town.

    On one side of the Bay is Monte Igueldo, a green-clad hill that offers the best views of San Sebastian. Burn off all those Pintxos by climbing the path to the top, or jump on board the red vintage funicular instead and enjoy the relaxed walk back down.

    The sunset is a delight from up here, and there is also a restaurant and souvenir shops that are attached to the amusement park, which is a bit of a novelty. and while it may be entertaining for kids, you might want to find your preferred vantage point to enjoy the view away from the noise.

    On the other side of the bay is Urgull, a second green hill dotted with trees and old fortress parts, and a castle amongst it. Enjoy the shaded walks around here for great views back down onto the port and the old town.

    Heritage and history around the Old Town

    Parte Vieja, the old town of San Sebastián, is a delightful and compact mix of Pintxo bars and hops. It’s wedged between La Concha beach and Playa de Zurriola, with bridges linking the two sides of the town over the river.

    Packed into this area are plenty of places to enjoy Basque culture, such as the Victoria Eugenia Antzokia Theatre or the San Telmo Museum, which is dedicated to Basque culture in all its forms.

    If you are lucky, your visit will coincide with the film festival in September or a chance to watch the Bertsolaritza poetry slams at the championships or general competitions.

    When you aren’t preoccupied picking Pitxos off a bar top, there’s some delightful architecture in the city to admire, ranging from Renaissance to modernist, with the Belle Epoque facades particularly enjoyable.

    Don’t miss admiring Donostiako Udala, the city hall, which is particularly pretty at night, or the inside of the impressive 18th-century Koruko Andre Mariaren Basilica.

    Help yourself to Pintxos at a bar in San Sebastián

    Pintxos: social dining at its best

    When people describe Pintxos, they sometimes confuse them with being just tapas but from the Basque region, but there is more to their story than that.

    Tapas, small little dishes that are served up throughout Spain, are in their most simple form, little bites of food that are served complimentary with drinks. It comes from the verb ‘taper’, which means to cover, and these little plates were originally saucers placed on people’s drinks to keep flies away, which grew into the tradition of adding morsels of food on top of the saucer.

    Over the years, the tapas scene has evolved in Spain, and while in certain places, such as Granada, the free tapas with drinks still flows, in other places, tapas has become more of an order and pay from the menu type situation.

    In San Sebastián and the Basque Country, Pintxos are instead of tapas, but don’t expect these to be free – however, the often loaded small bites and plates are well worthy of parting with your pennies for.

    Pintxos are so lauded, in fact, that the reason I visited San Sebastián was on assignment for Lonely Planet, who had recently named Pintxos in San Sebastián as the top food experience worth travelling for – in the world!

    Pintxo bars themselves are lively places; bartenders pour the local sparkling wine Txakoli dramatically from a great height into tumblers whilst patrons eat standing, often spilling out onto the street.

    The bar-top isn’t a place to rest your pint, instead, it’s stacked high with various Pintxos. From simple skewers of olive, anchovy and pepper known as the ‘Gilda’, to chunky crusts of bread adorned with cured meats, fishes or cheese, Pintxos are presented in various forms.

    Simply grab a plate and pick out whichever ones look most appealing to you. Pricing is usually done by the number you have (keep the toothpicks) or by plate, and don’t miss the blackboards of specials often behind the bar; these are fresh and warm Pintxos and plates that are made to order.

    Pintxo bars offer some of the most social, fun and delicious dining experiences in Europe, and hopping between different bars, often each one having its own specialities, makes the evening a fun and extended experience, sipping, nibbling and catching up with friends. The night often starts around 9 pm and continues until the early hours.

    Packed into the old town of San Sebastián are countless bars, some of my favourite spots to eat when I visited were Ganbara, La Vina and for a more sit-down friendly option, Gandarias.

    Culinary clubs in a city consumed by cuisine

    Mouthwatering goodness in San Sebastián is certainly not limited to Pintxos, though, as it has a giant gastronomy scene to be proud of – from affordable morsels to award-winning restaurants and an almost secret-to-tourists underground world of culinary clubs.

    At the last tally, San Sebastián can boast more Michelin stars per square metre than any other city, so for those who want to splurge on the finer things in life, you are well catered for.

    My interest, however, was piqued by the Sociedades Gastronómicas, which are gastronomic social clubs, a slice of secret Spain if you will, as most of them are underground and only the members have the keys.

    Historically, these societies were just for men, but in recent years, they have modernised and started to become more accepting and diverse in their memberships. For members, they have 24/7 access to these dining rooms, complete with spacious and well-equipped kitchens, and provide a social space to enjoy what San Sebastian residents love so much – food!

    Born out of small apartments and flats with little social space, these communal areas allow for larger gatherings of friends and family with enough space to cater to and entertain the group. You might have one household boiling some fish in white wine on one side of the kitchen, whilst across the kitchen, another group roasts meat – sampling and sharing between society members is a bonus.

    As part of my Intrepid Travel food tour, we were lucky enough to get access to one of these clubs, thanks to local Chef Ben, who took us to the society for a cooking class of local treats, from Pintxos to perfectly fresh seafood.

    Our day started in the La Brexta market, where Ben gathered the ingredients (I’d say we assisted, but that would be a lie) from the various counters. At each stage, whether it was the fishmonger or the grocer, friendly greetings were shared between this community so linked by cuisine.

    Once back in the Sociedade, we spent the following hours slowly turning these ingredients into Basque dishes; all washed down by the lightly sparkling local wine, Txakoli, or the local Basque cider.

    To visit one of these culinary societies yourself, you will need to arrange a tour in advance. Either on the multi-day food trip like I did, or I found a few different options for one-day cooking classes.

    Where to stay in San Sebastián?

    Sercotel Hotel Europa – This is where I stayed, and it’s a very clean, modern hotel with really lovely staff. Located just back from the beach, it does not have sea views and thus is a little more affordable than some other offerings whilst being very close to everything; breakfast was great. –

    Zenit Convento San Martin – If you want a bit of history during your San Sebastián stay, then this converted convent is sure to appeal. The inside of the hotel is spectacular, with arched ceilings and colourful blue and red fresco-style decorations. Some of the rooms are very modern, whilst others retain those traditional elements. It’s moments from the beach and has a pool for the warmer months.

    Lasala Plaza Hotel – For beautiful views of the bay and looking back on San Sebastián and the beach, this is a great pick; the pool isn’t large, but from the water and the deck, you can enjoy great views of the bay, and there are a range of rooms, with the premium options offering sea-views.

    Places such as the regional capital Vitoria-Gasteiz (the Cathedral of Santa Maria is a highlight), Hondarribia (a coastal historic town on the French Border) or Mundaka (popular for surfing on the Bay of Biscay) all offer different sides to the Basque Country, but the two I’ve written about below are, Bilbao and Laguardia were my favourites, and are in my opinion, must visits.

    Where else to visit in the Basque Country from San Sebastián?

    San Sebastián is a great place to base yourself for exploring more of the Spanish Basque Country, and you could easily spend a week in Spain‘s food city, San Sebastián taking day trips or enjoying a road trip around the region, spending nights in different towns so you can soak up the evening magic of all the wine and dining options.

    The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao

    Dive into the art and culture of Bilbao

    My first visit to Bilboa was far from successful. In my early twenties, I scraped together all my money, booked a ferry, and took my partner on a bucket list trip to visit the Guggenheim Museum.

    Feeling like I’d really excelled with this romantic escape, things quickly turned to disaster when I discovered on our one-night visit that the Guggenheim is closed every Monday, and we wouldn’t even get to visit the museum during our stay. A bout of seasickness sealed the fate of that trip as one I don’t often look back on.

    While that relationship didn’t last, my desire to visit this impressive gallery did, so I’m super pleased that many years later, I got to step inside this futuristic-looking titanium building and appreciate the array of contemporary art inside.

    The two main things I took away from that first visit, though, are: 1. Don’t try to visit the Guggenheim on a Monday, and 2. There’s a lot more to this underrated city than just the museum.

    While I think a lot of the tourism chatter about Bilbao focuses on the gallery, in part because the port city with its tower-block centre is larger and less charming than San Sebastián, there’s plenty still to enjoy here. The Guggenheim didn’t just bring a new museum to the city; it brought a new lease of life.

    You’ll find all the usual suspects in Bilboa: bars dishing out Pintxos, terraces packed with cafe tables, and markets with plenty of local flavours, but there are also some uniquely Bilbao attractions to enjoy.

    Start the day with some snacks at the trendy Ribera Market before walking along the old streets towards Plaza Nueva. From here, head to the Baroque San Nikolas church, a good point to start the riverside walk along to the Guggenheim. The river has become a central point of life in the city, and you’ll be able to enjoy the range of architecture (including the bridges) before heading into the Museum.

    In the streets behind the museum, heading towards the Moyua Plaza, you’ll find more fascinating architecture, such as the Azkuna Zentroa Cultural Centre and even the exterior of the football stadium at San Mames.

    Strolling through the small streets, you’ll find galleries and crafts stores dedicated to local Basque artists, which offer further insight into the specialities of this region and the long, unique heritage that the Basque community are so proud of.

    Laguardia, on the border of the Basque Country

    Visit the medieval walled wine land of Laguardia

    Laguardia has a truly special atmosphere, and while it’s hard to pinpoint exactly why, it’s easy to say it’s one of my favourite places in the whole of Spain.

    Perhaps it’s the lack of vehicles allowed to drive the historic streets of the hill-top walled hamlet which makes it so charming. At first glance, you might think that cars are banned due to the narrow roads, but the truth is far more fascinating.

    Underneath these historic streets are some 240-odd tunnels, many of which now house cask upon cask of the area’s most prized product, Rioja. Quite simply, if vehicles started driving up and down these streets, they would very likely collapse.

    The historic wall that surrounds the hamlet dates back to the 15th century; however, the tunnels and caves that you can see today came before the Laguardia. Originally intended as a defence, over the years, they became the resting place of wine before it was released into the world for our enjoyment. Sadly, much of the wall was destroyed in more recent wars, but tunnels remain intact.

    Whilst wandering these delightful streets and filling up your whole camera roll is a joy, to really get to know Laguardia, you need to venture underground.

    There are plenty of wineries to pick from, but as part of our Spain Food Tour, we visited the Bodega El Fabulista, which provided a really great oversight into the history and tunnels of Laguardia, and some delicious wines.

    Doorway deception is to be expected in Laguardia, as the bulk of the magic is seven metres underneath the palace, which houses the entrance at ground level. You’ll see traditional machinery and harvesting methods in the briefing room, as this is one of the few winemakers still opting to use traditional methods even now before heading into the caves – some of the largest in Laguardia.

    After seeing the four different rooms where the wine is stored before bottling, it’s time to sample the delicious wines (Los dos amigos y el Oso was my favourite) alongside local cheeses and chorizo. With the palace above having been home to the famed writer Félix María de Samaniego, there are plenty of links to fables (short stories) throughout the winery, including one linked to each wine.

    Above ground, you’ll find a plethora of dining options, from window-style cafes handing little dishes to standing patrons right through to culinary geniuses dishing out multi-course tasting menus in fine establishments.

    One thing all of these dining options have in common, regardless of their size, is a vast wine list, and while it might be tempting to stick with the rich Rioja reds, which mainly come from the Tempranillo grape, don’t miss out on sampling the whites which have become harder to source internationally as their popularity ebbed.

    Just outside the medieval walls you’ll find Villa Lucía Espacio Gastronómico, set amongst vineyards this grand restaurant serves up a fantastic lunch tasting menu, and is a wonderful spot to soak up all the wine you’ve tasted with some local dishes.

    Where to stay in Laguardia?

    The hill-top town of Laguardia is fairly compact, so you have a few options within the walls. Or, you could opt to stay on a vineyard amongst the surrounding nature; two hotels really stand out to me.

    Hotel Eguren Ugarte – Set in a winery against a hilly backdrop, this delightful boutique offering has breathtaking views from the wooden ceiling rooms, a vast underground wine cave, a fantastic restaurant, and even a tower. Strangely, for such a special offering, it’s ranked as a 1* hotel, which makes no sense, so if you have filters on your hotel search, you will miss it.

    Hospederia de los Parajes – Located within the old medieval town, this historic pick has a 15th-century wine cellar. The charming interior has lots of surprises, with a Turkish bath cave room, exposed brickwork, and a good balance of modern amenities in the bedroom whilst keeping a traditional feel throughout the property.

    Overlooking the skyline of Logrono

    Continue your journey to Logroño

    Laguardia essentially marks the border of the Basque Region, as the fields of vines blend into the La Rioja region.

    A short journey from Laguardia will bring you to Logroño, and if you have the time, then a night out here is well worth scheduling. The medieval centre is packed with tapas bars, and a tapas crawl (where the food takes priority over the beer, or, more likely, the Rioja in this region) is the perfect way to sample multiple tapers and flavours as the locals do.

    Working your way down the popular Calle Laurel street will take your taste buds on a journey. The atmosphere on the night I was there was buzzing thanks to a local event, and the streets were packed with people in high spirits, but I imagine on most evenings, you’ll still find great energy here as people spill onto terraces from the little restaurants.

    Logroño itself has a few grand buildings and attractions to visit, specifically the Cathedral, as it is also part of a pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela.

    From Logroño, it’s easy enough to take a train and head to the other coast (Barcelona) or return back to San Sebastián to round off your trip, perfectly charmed by the Basque Region and all the delicious treats it has in store for you.

    Take the ‘Northern Spain Food Adventure’

    My visit to San Sebastián (all the above-mentioned places) was part of the Intrepid Travel Northern Spain Food Tour, which took us from cooking in local houses in Barcelona, through the Rioja wine region, and into underground dining clubs in San Sebastián before continuing through little villages in the mountains for cider and cheese visits. The tour ends in the famous pilgrimage spot of Santiago de Compostela. A fantastic 10-day experience; it was amazing not just to see beautiful places (and plenty of lesser-visited spots) but to really get to know Spain through its culinary heritage.

  • Unique Honeymoon Ideas: Ten Alternative Romantic Escapes

    Unique Honeymoon Ideas: Ten Alternative Romantic Escapes

    Relaxing on a beach, cocktail in hand, or zip-wiring through a rainforest? When it comes to honeymoons, there is no perfect blueprint to follow. Sure, that all-inclusive beach escape to the most gorgeous places to visit in Mauritius or Fiji might be someone else’s dream way of celebrating their nuptials. But if you want to turn your honeymoon into an epic adventure, there are plenty of options.

    Making your romantic escape something special is the main rule for a honeymoon – a trip that is both unforgettable but also unique to your particular interests. Whether that is mountain hiking, wildlife adventures, island-hopping with the locals, or indulging in the finest things our world has to offer.

    If you are looking for a unique honeymoon that is more than just a luxury island holiday, then here are some awesome ideas for a romantic escape with a twist.

    The Indian River in Dominia

    Head to Dominica, the lesser-explored nature island of the Caribbean

    This isn’t your average Caribbean destination; it’s an adventurers’ playground – that’s how I would summarise Dominica. If you want the climate of the Caribbean for your unique honeymoon, but awesome hiking takes priority over white-sand beaches, then the ‘Nature Island’ of Dominica might be just the ticket.

    Only accessible by a little plane from nearby countries like Antigua, visiting Dominica feels like an adventure. Hike countless trails, visit dramatic waterfalls, and enjoy postcard-perfect remote beaches. Due to the volcanic nature of the island, lack of flights, and cruises staying on one side of the island, you can truly after a get-away that feels exclusive and private, perfect for a honeymoon away from it all. And if you want a heart-thumping honeymoon, this is the one. The best things to do in Dominica range from canyoning and circling boiling hot lakes to scuba diving with dolphins.

    Hike through ancient Inca ruins in Peru.

    For a more active honeymoon, why not visit Machu Pichu in Peru, one of the most impressive ancient sites in the world?

    While permits to hike the Inca Trail are limited, there are plenty of other hiking routes in the local area. I did the Lares Trek with G Adventures, camping under star-lit skies, hiking through local settlements, and learning about other Inca ruins on the way. At the end of the trip, a glass-roofed train transported us to the dreamy village of Aguas Calientes, which is just below the famed sight.

    A bonus of doing this, rather than hiking right there, is you can enjoy a good sleep and shower before visiting Machu Pichu – one way to ensure your honeymoon photos are a little more stylish than sweaty!

    Experience a wildlife adventure in the Galapagos Islands

    If you are an animal lover like myself, perhaps you’ll want to make your honeymoon unique by visiting some secluded destinations with magnificent wildlife. To do so, forget the traditional cruises for your honeymoon and opt for a small sailing option to the incredible Galapagos Island.

    More than just a chance to see the famed locals – such as the Galapagos Iguana and impressive Galapagos Giant Tortoise – many sailings offer the chance to gain in-depth knowledge due to lessons and insights from the onboard biologists. Sailing and being at one with the ocean is one of the most romantic ways to travel, and coupling that with visiting some of the most remote and well-protected islands in the world makes for a honeymoon unlike any other.

    There is a vast array of ships to choose from to travel around the Galapagos, each offering different comfort levels, islands visited, or speciality focuses – and, most importantly, price points. Use a website like Rainforest Cruises to whittle down which types of sailing and routes would suit your honeymoon best.

    Indulge in traditions and heritage in rural Japan

    Japan is rightly one of the most fascinating tourist destinations in the world. Amazing culture, cuisine and heritage combine here, and the charm and calm of the rural parts of the country make for a fantastic romantic escape.

    Away from mega-cities like Tokyo, a much slower pace of life awaits – one dictated more by traditions than towering city blocks. The region of Kochi is one of my favourites, a lush land of crystal clear rivers, amazing hiking routes, tea farms and traditional artisans, from knife makers to paper crafters. Also, expect plenty of amazing food thanks to the coastal position – sushi, anyone? There are also plenty of wellness experiences in Kochi, Japan, perfect for a pampered and tranquil honeymoon.

    You don’t need to go to the Maldives for an overwater bungalow

    The classic over-water villas, but not the Maldives

    Is there anything more synonymous with honeymoons in the Instagram age than an over-water villa in the Maldives? Maybe not, but you aren’t limited to this South Asian archipelago for your honeymoon island escape.

    In French Polynesia, it’s usually Tahiti and Bora Bora stealing the headlines, but there are, in fact, over one hundred amazing islands in this South Pacific nation. If you want a more lush, rugged and mountainous escape for your honeymoon than the small sandy islands of the Maldives, then Moorea is a great alternative.

    Not only can you find the classic overwater Moorea villas here to tick that Maldives-esque accommodation craving, but it’s one of the more affordable destinations to do so in French Polynesia. Thus rugged volcanic island has all the sandy beaches you could dream of, rainforest hiking trails, and some fantastic scuba-diving – so you can spend your honeymoon as relaxed or active as you desire.

    Plan a safari adventure to see the Big Five

    Luxury lodges and bespoke tailored safari make for an epic and unforgettable honeymoon. Witness wildlife in their natural habitat, unwind under the stars at night and repeat again the next day.

    Zambia, Tanzania and South Africa are all popular destinations for a Safari, but these aren’t your only options – Namibia or Botswana, for example, are ever-growing in popularity and can provide some slightly more affordable package options if you want to enjoy a Safari for your honeymoon.

    Enjoy a culinary tour across Spain

    Gastronomy isn’t just about eating in Spain; it’s a way of life, so combining food and beautiful landscapes into your honeymoon is a fantastic way to explore the country. It’s no wonder that the Mediterranean diet is even inscribed on the UNESCO heritage list.

    My Intrepid Travel food tour across Spain was fantastic and covered some of Spain’s hidden gems and best cities. Starting in Barcelona, visiting remote mountain villages, and ending in Santiago de Compostela, this two-week tour took some of the country’s must-visit parts.

    On the way through cooking classes, market visits, gastronomic cooking clubs, and vineyard and cider house tours, I learned all about the different regional flavours that make Spain such a fantastic destination. San Sebastian stole the show for me, but it also allowed me to visit other parts of the country, like the lush green mountains.

    Food + Spain + Honeymoon = an ideal romantic getaway!

    Beautiful roads in the Vipava Valley Slovenia

    Road trip through Slovenia’s romantic foodie utopia – The Vipava Valley

    Sustainability isn’t a buzzword in the Vipava Valley; it’s a way of life. Here, the Slovenians are tending to their beehives, sipping on fresh wines from local cellars and devouring delicious cheeses at family farms, usually accompanied by a heart-warming grin.

    Welcome to the Vipava Valley, a foodie utopia served up with a degustation of luscious landscapes, adventure activities and vintage villages, all washed down from the barrels of an underground world – with wine cellars and homemade brews common in many households.

    Recently awarded Slovenia’s first Michelin star, the Vipava Valley is truly a wonderful destination for foodies. Imagine rolling green hills of vineyards, almost Tuscan-like in appearance, with adorable villages, local food experiences, and plenty of adventure activities—from paragliding to longer cycle tours between wineries. Romance is very much alive in the Vipava Valley.

    Witness the northern lights in a hotel made entirely of ice

    Winter wedding? No problem. There are some super romantic honeymoon options towards the poles. There is no need to try and scramble for a hot island escape in the cooler months.

    Imagine falling asleep under a canopy of the northern lights, with reindeer and winter wonderland adventures to keep you entertained during the day. At Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort in Finland, you can choose from some specially designed honeymoon accommodations, from igloos to suites and the famous glass-domed rooms to stare right up at the sky. You can even have your wedding here if you would prefer.

    Or how about a hotel made entirely of ice? For example, Sweeden’s Ice Hotel, the world’s largest, is constructed annually until it melts away in the warmer months – a truly unique and unforgettable honeymoon destination.

    Magical sunrise at Castlepoint, New Zealand

    Take a campervan adventure through the beauty of New Zealand

    New Zealand is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever visited and offers a whole host of amazing natural activities for newlyweds to enjoy. From epic hikes to unique geothermal attractions and breathtaking beaches to fjords and wildlife. Couple this with some fantastic museums, filming locations, and cultural activities, and you’ve got a fantastic trip through the world down under.

    Exploring New Zealand from Auckland to Wellington and then onto the south Island by campervan is unsurprisingly a popular option. Over two weeks (or ideally longer), you could hop between the highlights and take in the most popular attractions. Is there any better commitment to formalise ‘I do’ than living the van life for a few weeks?

  • Renaissance, Romance and Ragù: three days in beautiful Bologna

    Renaissance, Romance and Ragù: three days in beautiful Bologna

    Dedicated to Silvia: The star of Bologna and now a star in the sky x

    ‘‘A little bit of a bread, a little bit of Mozzarella?’ Chiara called back to our eager faces as we nodded, excitedly wetting our palates with some local Lambrusco and counting down the minutes until we sampled our first Emilia Romagna meal. The food was as good as the regions reputation promised, the company a perfect accompaniment, and we laughed throughout dinner until our bill was deposited, momentarily wiping away our joy at what was meant to be an affordable first meal in Bologna.

    A little bit of everything extra had turned into a lot of extra Euros, and we laughed again, this time at Chiara’s sales skills and our easy fall into the upgrade scam. We couldn’t hold a grudge though, not here in Bologna, a city as loving and warm as the complimentary Limoncello shots we were gifted by Chiara on our departure.

    It was the only time I felt cheated in this captivating yet somewhat underrated European city. For the locals of Bologna are some of the most liberal, kind, and friendly you will meet in Italy, or dare I say the world. Bologna is a city that reels you into its never-ending maze of Porticos, but the prize in this maze is getting blissfully lost, and ideally never finding your way out.

    Two visits to this city in six-months shows just how much Bologna clawed its way into my heart: from the unbelievably cheap daily delicious pizza slices to the epicurean dishes in family-run Osterias, Bologna fed me well – this is one of Europe’s most famous food destinations for good reason. But it also fed my soul: the intricate frescos in the western worlds oldest University, the imposing towers with their unforgettable views, the 40-kilometres of Porticos which feel like an inside-outside gallery, Bologna is a city that you feel as much as you visit.

    I can wax lyrically over this city I could easily call home for hours at a time, but I’m sure you’d rather know how to make your own weekend visit to the culinary capital of Italy just as special. Here are my favourite things to do in Bologna, and from these, I’m sure you can build the perfect three day trip to Bologna… and do tell her I’ll be back soon.

    Two visits to this city in six-months shows just how much Bologna clawed its way into my heart: from the unbelievably cheap daily delicious pizza slices to the epicurean dishes in family-run Osterias, Bologna fed me well – this is one of Europe’s most famous food destinations for good reason. But it also fed my soul: the intricate frescos in the western worlds oldest University, the imposing towers with their unforgettable views, the 40-kilometres of Porticos which feel like an inside-outside gallery, Bologna is a city that you feel as much as you visit.

    I can wax lyrically over this city I could easily call home for hours at a time, but I’m sure you’d rather know how to make your own weekend visit to the culinary capital of Italy just as special. Here are my favourite things to do in Bologna, and from these, I’m sure you can build the perfect three day trip to Bologna… and do tell her I’ll be back soon.

    Bologna One Day Itinerary

    From Michelangelo’s sculpture work to Morandi’s paintings, Bologna is a city you could easily spend days enjoying the art and architecture off – in fact, in the Emilia Region alone there are 13 UNESCO sites, so be sure to enjoy those that are in the city.

    For day one, let’s start with some of the highlights, and some gelato because it’s a totally suitable food-group to build a whole lunch out of when in Italy!

    Piazza Maggiore

    Set in the centre of the old town, Piazza Maggiore will forever be one of my favourite places in the city to people watch, sip on a local Lambrusco, or sneak off into the small streets nearby for a breakfast or to buy some local goods.

    Here, medieval palaces sit alongside Romanesque cathedrals, and there are a few sights you can enjoy on the square itself.

    Stop at Via Pescherie Vecchie, 1 for breakfast

    Start inside the Basilica di San Petronio, which dates back to the 14th-century and is the most important church that Bologna has to offer. the most important church in the city hailing back to the 14th-century, it’s also one of the largest in Europe. Be sure to head inside, and while outside, you’ll likely notice it was never fully completed – with the marble at the bottom turning into plain brickwork higher up.

    Also on the square, you’ll find Palazzo dei Banchi, a 16th-century palace, and turning through the archways here is one of my favourite streets, Via Pescherie Vecchie, 1 – ideal for a quick breakfast bite at one of the cafes.

    WHERE IS BOLOGNA?

    Bologna is the capital of the Emilia Romagna region, in Northern Italy. It’s roughly halfway between Verona and Florence. Getting here is easy, as Bologna is well served with connections to multiple destinations throughout Europe, and UAE and Morocco direct to its own airport, Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport. Please remember for those travelling into the Schengen zone from 2022 you will require an ETIAS, the new European Travel Authorisations. For those travelling from further afield, Florence, Milan and Venice central train-stations are linked in around 90-minutes to the city.

    Gelato or Food Tour

    There are countless food tours you can take around Bologna, so now is the right time to do one. It’s an ideal walking introduction to the city, and most the food tours will give you an idea of where you might want to re-visit, an insight into facts and history, and perhaps most importantly, a taste of what Emilia Romagna has to offer.

    The Gelato Tour might not seem the most obvious pick, but if you love the Italian ice-cream as much as I do, I highly suggest this one.

    Pizzeria Due Torri for lunch

    This low-key take-away pizzeria near the two towers is one of my go-to places for a quick bite in Bologna. The no-fuss setting, quick service, and delicious yet criminally cheap slices are worth grabbing to enjoy on one of the benches outside in the shadow of the towers, our next stop.

    The Two Towers

    The iconic symbol of the city, you’ll need to book a ticket in advance and be ready to climb a lot of steps, to truly appreciate the two towers

    Leaning, one of them in-fact actually has more of an angle than the more famous leaning tower of Pisa, and from the top, you’ll get an incredible birds-eye view over Bologna. Yes, you’ll need to climb nearly 500 steps to get close to 100 metres above the city, but the views will be worth it. Be aware, it can get very narrow inside, so it might not be suitable for everyone.

    Piazza Santo Stefano for Aperitivo

    Next up, head towards another wonderful square, Piazza Santo Stefano. On the way, there are some beautiful churches to visit, such as the Church of Saints Bartholomew and Cajetan and Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro, before admiring the Abbazia Santo Stefano, a Convent and one of the most magnificent buildings in the city for me.

    It should be getting close to Aperitivo time, the hours when drinks flow with free snacks and dishes to accompany them, a northern Italian tradition. To make it local to Emilia Romagna, you might opt to swap your Aperol Spritz or Negroni for local wine, like Lambrusco or Sangiovese.

    The architecture in Bologna in its red hue

    Dinner at L’osteria dei Grifoni

    For dinner, I suggest taking a 15-minute stroll around the back of the old-centre to L’osteria dei Grifoni, though you might need a map to find it.

    This wonderful family-run restaurant is on a side-street, where a few steps will take you to the semi-underground restaurant. Menus are all in Italian, if there even is a menu, you might just be given a choice of the daily pasta’s and dishes to choose from.

    Everything we ate here on two visits was sublime, and the host and candle-lit interior coupled with wooden bench seating make it an approachable and affordable dinner option.

    Bologna Two Day Itinerary

    Admire Bologna University and walking tour

    The oldest western university in the world, Bologna University – The Alma Mater Studiorum – unsurprisingly doesn’t just sit in one orderly building but instead spreads out across various magnificent settings across the city. This makes for a nice walking trail which will bring you past lots of beautiful streets and attractions that aren’t necessarily connected to the university.

    Some of the must-visit spots include the anatomical theatre, an all-wooden theatre that was used for teaching anatomy students, and the impressive library, which will literally take your breath away.

    Palazzo Poggi, the Spanish College and Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio are stops well worth a visit as you walk the streets, and remember, this isn’t just a part of history, but students are still lucky enough to learn in these incredible settings even now.

    A night at the theatre

    The Teatro Comunale di Bologna is a masterpiece of design. An imposing entrance, lush red seating, grand balconies – a picture-perfect theatre. If you can secure tickets for a performance here then I highly recommend it.

    Bologna has UNESCO listing as a city of creativity and music and where better to soak that in than this setting. Opened in 1763 and designed by renowned Antonio Galli Bibiena it’s worth visiting even if not for a show, you can try to join a tour on certain mornings by booking the night before.

    Dinner at Trattoria Ana Maria

    This institution of a restaurant, with walls coated into photos of previous patrons, including a few celebrities, will always hold a dear place in my heart as it’s where I enjoyed my final meal with Silvia, a true star of the Emilia Romagna tourism industry who sadly passed away.

    Personal attachment aside, this slightly more upmarket restaurant, though still complete with traditional decor, served up dish after dish of delicious food – don’t forget you can have more than three courses quite happily in Italy! The lasagne was fantastic, as was the ragù tagliatelle (never call it, or compare it to, our embarrassing Bolognese version) and the desserts were sublime.

    Emilia Romagna is often called the home of food

    Enjoy drinks in Ghetto Ebraico

    Nearby the to the theatre, this super cool neighbourhood is perhaps my favourite place to enjoy an evening drink in Bologna. The laughter and conversations more than spills out onto the street, so just find a bar or two that you like the look of and enjoy.

    Bologna Three Day Itinerary

    Eat everything at Fico EATLY world


    Emilia Romagna is sometimes referred to as the home of food, with culinary genius running in the blood of this region. From Parma Ham to Parmigiano Reggiano, Balsamic Vinegar to aforementioned Ragú, there are numerous dishes that the region hold claim too.

    While on a longer visit to Emilia Romagna you could head to other cities and regions to sample the local cuisine, for those just here for a long weekend Fico EATLY world provides an answer.

    Some will love it, others will think its cheating and might prefer to spend their last day hopping on quick trains to the likes of Parma itself, but this huge food ‘theme park’ just outside the city centre gives you the change to taste various Protected Designation of Origin flavours in one place.

    You can dip into one of the small production rooms to see how items are made or take classes, wine-tasting, and gelato workshops. It also covers food from regions outside of Emilia Romagna and the whole country. Expect to spend a while here – it’s so vast you can actually hire bikes to cycle around the inside the building or visit the farms and outer sections. Make sure you’ve got some empty suitcase space to bring all the goodies home.

    Finestrella

    Once back into the centre (you might have walked or taken the bus to Fico, you’ll likely walk past one of Bolognas worse kept secrets, Finestrella.

    Bologna used to have lots of canals, and in fact, many of these do still exist but have simply been built over, or hidden behind walls. The Finestrella window allows you a glimpse into this Venice like past through a small viewing spot onto one of the prettiest canals still open in the city.

    Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca

    In the afternoon, head to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, some 300-metres above the city. You can take public transport there, or walk (an hour-ish) with the little tourist train a popular option as it leaves straight from Piazza Maggiore.

    The Sanctuary is situated outside the city-centre, raised up on a green area with great views looking back to the old town. If you climbed the tower, you’ll have seen it in the distance. As well as being a notable place of worship, the beautifully curved construction offers wide vistas from the viewing platform, which you can enter for a few euros, or just walk around the buildings lower levels and grounds for free.

    Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca

    A stroll through the Porticos back to town

    It’s rare I get to this part of an article when writing about Bologna without mentioning Porticos multiple times. These UNESCO covered archways are all over Emilia Romagna, and other parts of Italy, but the city of Bologna boasts over 40-kilometres of them alone!

    The walk back down to the city centre is really pleasant through the porticos the whole way, with some lovely buildings to pause and photograph on the route.

    Depending on when your flight is, you might want to stay at the Sanctuary for sunset and walk back down as the sun is setting, a really lovely end to three days in Bologna.

    There are, of course, many more museums, galleries and attractions in Bologna that you could squeeze in and around this itinerary. I’ve purposefully left this relatively loose so you don’t have to rush and can embrace the relaxed, liberal pace of life in this University City.

    One thing I’m confident on is that no matter how you spend your time in Bologna, you’ll be hard pushed not to come away singing her praises – enjoy!

    The remains of the gates to the old city walls

    Where to eat in Bologna

    While I’ve detailed some of my favourite places to dine above, you truly are spoilt for choice when it comes to food in Bologna. Be sure to check off all the amazing food experiences in Emilia Romagna, whether in the city or beyond.

    Where to go after Bologna

    After exploring Bologna I highly suggest you discover some more of the Emilia Romagna region. Brisighella, a dreamy village of towers and olive oil is one of the best day trips from Bologna, while some of the smaller cities in Emilia Romagna such as Modena, Ferrara and Parma make fantastic day trips from Bologna.

    Accessibility in Bologna

    Bologna is an old city and has countless attractions, so it would be hard to give in-depth advice here. Many of the main attractions give accessibility details on their website and the team at Bologna Welcome, the tourism board, have a great website which discusses accessibility in the city.

  • Visiting the Volcanic Island of Nisyros, a Lesser-Known Greek Gem

    Visiting the Volcanic Island of Nisyros, a Lesser-Known Greek Gem

    The volcanic island of Nisyros in Greece was one of my most unexpected and unplanned trips of the year. I didn’t even know I was going to Greece until I got invited there on a second date after meeting someone at the Edinburgh Festivals two weeks before. A little tipsy and always keen to explore somewhere new – especially only having visited Athens previously – I dutifully booked a flight to the island of Kos and headed off on a Greek escapade.

    Sadly, the romance never blossomed, but I did replace it with a new lover: Nisyros Island.

    Now one of my favourite off-the-beaten-path gems in Europe, this small and sulphurous island was much sleepier than some of its more famous neighbours. You only need to look at a Crete, Mykonos or Santorini travel guide these days to know that the big ‘bucket list’ isles are crowded, so if you’re seeking a more serene experience, a somewhat less popular island like Nisyros might be just the ticket.

    But it’s not just fewer crowds that make this rocky island so special. No, it’s the various calderas that gurgle in its heart. Around the edge, alluring whitewashed villages with those signature blue frames play home to close-knit communities. In the middle of the island, you’ll find the space-like landscape where the crater of this active volcano bubbles away – and yes, you can take your adventurous ass right down into it, sulphur fumes and all.

    For many, Nisyros Island is a day trip, usually from Kardamena, a small resort town in Kos, where I spent the week. However, for those who want to experience a little more of Nisyros Island, then I’d recommend staying for a few nights on this unique and beautiful island.

    Restaurants on the Nisyros Waterfront

    There are a few different villages around the edge you could then explore at your own pace, but even just taking some downtime on the black sand and rock beaches or reading a book with a Greek coffee along the waterfront is a holiday enough.

    Nisyros Island struck me as somewhere an artist would come to paint or a writer would come to craft their words. It had ‘that’ vibe, whatever that may be, and it felt like the perfect place to escape the tourist crowds that descend on Greece, even during my peak August visit. However long you plan to spend here, here’s what you should know, alongside how to get to Nisyros from other places in Greece.

    Things to do on Nisyros Volcanic Island

    Thanks to the location of the island in the Aegean Sea, volcanic activity is a common occurrence around here. Thus, it’s no surprise that the highlight of a visit to Nisyros might centre around this. But here, this little gem of the Dodecanese islands has some other treats up its sleeve, so there are some different ways to enjoy your travels to Nisyros island.

    Visit the Stefano volcanic crater

    This is the headliner. No visit to Nisyros island would be complete without venturing into the Stefanos volcanic crater itself, the largest on the island.

    The active volcano hasn’t erupted in well over one hundred years, and here you can walk around the rim and take in the almost space-like scenery before taking the short walk down into the crater.

    Buses regularly ply the drive from the main port to the crater, especially during the late morning and early afternoon hours that bring the day trippers here from nearby Kos. There isn’t much in the centre, other than a cafe which provides some shade and snacks to visitors waiting to be shuttled back to the villages.

    If you head to the village of Nikia, you’ll find some great viewpoints looking down to the centre, but also the Volcano Museum, which provides some facts and context into Nisyros.

    Marvel at the Monastery

    The most impressive sight on the island for me was the 14th-century Panagia Spiliani Monastery, which is housed mainly in a cave on the rock face of the island.

    Looking down on the village of Mandraki, you can climb the nearly 300 stairs to the monastery and admire the views of the island before heading inside the duo of churches with their whitewashed exterior.

    At ground level, the courtyard of the monastery is home to some nice, well-shaded cafes, and behind the monastery, you can continue to a black rock beach with aggressive waves.

    Meander through Mandraki village

    The main village of the island is Mandraki, which is home to the port as well. As such, this will likely be the busiest of the villages and certainly seems home to the most accommodation options.

    That said, even in August, it wasn’t exactly overflowing, and it was easy to find empty tables with excellent views to enjoy a coffee at.

    The village, indeed, isn’t large, but a maze of small alleyways with scooters slowly passing by kittens lounging in the sun provides ample photographic opportunities. This very much feels like Greece from years gone by, with plastic chairs outside, blue framed doors, and a little staircase leading up to porches.

    Breezy beers on the waterfront

    The waterfront of Mandraki has a few bars and restaurants running along it, and with the salty breeze of the ocean hair, and the occasional spray from the crashing waves, it’s a relaxing and therapeutic place to enjoy a local beer, coffee or of course, delicious Greek meal.

    My happiest moments on Nisyros were spent here, reading a book, enjoying a coffee and listing to the waves and seagulls overhead. There is no abundance of nightclubs or heavy-hitting venues here, so you can truly soak up the Greek charm in a mostly tourist-free atmosphere.

    Venture to the other villages

    A trio of other communities make up the inhabited parts of Nisyros, each providing a similar yet slightly different vibe.

    The whitewashed buildings and blue plant pots are consistent, but the villages of Pali, Emporios and Nikia are well worth venturing to if you have more than a day on the island. Nikia is likely the best place to head to as it offers some great views of the volcanic crater.

    Take a thermal spa dip

    Thanks to the volcanic makeup of the island, hot springs are another big draw to Nisyros, and thanks to the relaxed and remote location, it would make for an ideal wellness retreat. I can only imagine these healing thermal spas are another reason the island was, and still is, so popular with artists and creatives.

    Brave the black rock beaches

    Being a volcano, many of the beaches here are black rocks and with not much else around, the waves come crashing in hand.

    That isn’t to say there aren’t more sheltered, sand beaches to relax on, but the wild ways of the rocky shores made for another perfect place to settle in with a book and unplug my headphones, opting instead to have the crashing sounds of mother nature distract me from the modern world.

    Hike the island’s trail

    Nisyros is a dream for hikers, with plenty of well-trodden paths to explore between the villages and more remote natural wonders. I didn’t have time to undertake any myself, but the small tourism office at the port has a map detailing some of the more popular routes.

    Take a boat trip to Giali

    Between Nisyros and Kos, you’ll find the island of Giali, another volcanic island with a unique makeup of pumice and lava domes. It is still used as a pumice mine, but you can venture here on a boat trip, although I opted not to as first-hand reports hadn’t made it sound worth the time investment.

    Need to know: Nisyros Island

    Here are a few tips and insights to make planning your visit to Nisyros a little easier, but as always, remember to find your own discoveries.

    Where to stay on Nisyros on a budget: Wild camping in Greece seems to vary from region to region, and although I could not find a definitive answer, it appears on Nisyros it is allowed, although I can’t confirm this 100%.

    For those looking for a cheap bed on Nisyros, though, the Haritos Hotel offers twin/doubles out of season for around €30 a night with a swimming pool and location close to the port to reduce transfer costs.

    When to visit Nisyros: It’s a fantastic destination from spring through autumn, but to avoid peak summer, I’d suggest this as one of the best places to visit in April in Europe.

    Where to stay on Nisyros like a baller: The Old Traditional House is also located close to the port, but this delightful private apartment provides a more intimate and personal place to use as a base while exploring the island.

    In general, it seems there is limited accommodation in Nisyros, so booking in advance is highly recommended.

    How to get to Nisyros: I took a boat from Kos Island and the port/resort town of Kardamena. Kos airport is served by international flights, including from the UK, and domestic flights from within Greece. Other smaller ports offer seasonal boat connections to Nisyros.

    Kardamena in Kos, boats depart daily

  • A quick guide to Palma de Mallorca: Spain’s best island city break?

    A quick guide to Palma de Mallorca: Spain’s best island city break?

    The grandeur of a Gothic Cathedral towering above the city, a labyrinth of brightly coloured walls enclosing tiny streets, shaded squares sound-tracked by birdsong and free-flowing fountains, and a plethora of delicious restaurants and nightlife. Welcome to Palma de Mallorca, the capital of the Balearics.

    The first time I visited the island, I hadn’t consulted a guide to Palma city, and my only plan was to avoid Magaluf and explore some of the other reasons to visit Mallorca island. Sadly, while doing so, I ended up accidentally avoiding Palma altogether. Having recently returned to spend a week in the city itself, I’ve managed to correct my mistake and discover many of the best things to do in Palma.

    In fact, I’d go as far as saying that Palma is an ideal city break, which is quite surprising for an island destination – yet, it ticks all the boxes; gastronomy, history, culture, and more than enough places to eat and drink in style.

    Here’s a quick city guide to Palma de Mallorca and what to expect from a long weekend in one of the most underrated cities in Europe.

    When to visit and how long to spend in Palma de Mallorca?

    Depending on how you wish to spend your time on the island of Mallorca, you could make Palma a two-day visit or a two-week holiday.

    Thanks to the regular flight schedules, even in the winter months, coming for a weekend or a long weekend will give you a chance to explore the top things to do in Palma and get a flavour of the island’s capital city. If you opt to use Palma as a base for longer, then it’s an ideal base (especially with a car) to take day trips out to other parts of the island – whether the story-book style inland villages or the breathtaking cove beaches of crystal clear waters.

    Deciding when to visit is also relatively easy, as the weather is pretty kind all year round. Unfortunately, I experienced the rainiest week the island had seen in twenty years, yet we still had a great time. Of course, if you are looking to visit the island more for sunbathing and beaches, most guides to Palma de Mallorca will suggest that summer is the best time to visit. However, with higher prices and more crowds, you may want to think again.

    The shoulder seasons in Spring and Autumn are always the best, in my opinion, for visiting Europe’s popular coastal destinations, and the same applies to this city guide to Palma de Mallorca. Given the city doesn’t close down outside of summer, it’s also one of the best winter destinations in Europe, albeit not as hot as the Canary Islands.

    Where to stay in Palma de Mallorca?

    Palma is a much bigger city than most people realised before arriving, which means there is an array of accommodation options for all budgets and group sizes.

    For many, an island getaway means booking a white-washed luxury villa, especially if you are travelling with a big group of friends or family members. Mallorca certainly has plenty of delightful options to choose from, although many are more concentrated around the smaller coastal resorts.

    There are, however, some good villa options very close to Mallorca hosted by Vida Villas, certainly close enough to take a bus or taxi in and out of the city, or you could opt to stay closer to a beach resort and drive into Palma for day-trips.

    On my recent visit, as I was travelling solo, I found the accommodation options to be pretty affordable in late November. I secured private rooms at both the New Art Hostel and another hotel (now closed) for under €30 a night and would happily recommend both.

    How to get to Palma de Mallorca?

    Palma de Mallorca is the main gateway to the Balearic Islands, and I was pretty shocked at just how large the airport is – this island is certainly no Spanish hidden gem. It is well served by budget and flag-carrying airlines from Europe and will soon start hosting direct flights from the USA. It’s a short drive from the city centre (expect to pay around €20 for a taxi) and is connected by the airport bus.

    An alternative is to arrive by ferry from Barcelona or Valencia. Various operators cover these routes to and from the mainland, both with day and night sailings. I paid €19 for an overnight sailing with GNV from Valencia and napped on a couch with my sleeping bag. Waking up to the views of Palma Cathedral through the window at blue hour was particularly special.

    The ferries are also great for island hopping, allowing a quick and easy way to experience the more laid-back things to do in Menorca, Mallorca’s chilled and pristine neighbour, or to go party crazy in Ibiza. The port of Alcúdia (Mallorca) provides the quickest sailings to Menorca, while Palma is best for ferries to Ibiza.

    Things to do in Palma de Mallorca

    One of the biggest joys for me about Spanish cities is just slowly taking in the colourful and historic buildings, the tile work, the plazas, and stopping here and there for a vinho or tapa. There are, however, some impressive attractions in Palma, and it’s well worth adding one or two of these best things to do in Palma de Mallorca into your schedule.

    Palma Cathedral – the top thing to do in Palma de Mallorca

    If there is one attraction that stands above the rest, both literally and figuratively, it’s Palma Cathedral. This Gothic Roman architectural feat looks good from all angles, whether admiring it from the outside across the still waters or seeing the stain-glass windows bouncing light around the imposing pillars inside.

    Royal Palace of La Almudaina

    Just next door to the Cathedral is the Royal Palace, also well worth visiting inside for the elaborately decorated carpeted rooms and idyllic setting in the courtyard. Dating back to the 14th century, there is plenty of history to discover within the Palace’s walls.

    Castell de Bellver

    A short walk from the city centre and promising fantastic views across Palma and the Marina, the uniquely shaped Bellver Castle is a bargain to enter for just a few euros. The rounded interior is rather impressive, and the views from the rooftop are especially special at sunset.

    The beautifully round Castle

    Es Baluard Contemporary Art Museum

    With mainly modern art collections from artists of the Balearic islands and international artists, this modern museum is ideal for a rainy day visit.

    Fundació Miró Mallorca

    Housing an extensive collection of paintings by the artist Joan Miró, who, while born in Barcelona, made his home later in Palma, the vast display includes sculptures, gardens and some of his most famous works.

    Head to the Beach

    It wouldn’t be an island city break without a bit of beach time, and the Platja de Can Pere Antoni is right on the city’s doorstep. While there are certainly much more tranquil bays further along the coast, you don’t need to go far to have your fit in the sand and a dip in the Med.

    Guide to Palma’s best places to eat

    After exploring all the best things to do in Palma, it’s time for Palma’s impressive food scene. From two Michelin Star restaurants down to tiny tapas houses, you are very much spoilt for choice. I did seem to find myself drinking more than eating during my last visit, but this is my guide to Palma de Mallorca’s foodie spots that I really would recommend.

    Mercat 1930

    A fantastic concept for some food and drinks, Mercat 1930 is essentially a big vintage bar area with tiled floors and an occasional DJ, where food stalls surround the tables in the middle with traditional Spanish and international cuisine.

    Find a seat, grab a drink from the bar, and then hit up the stands for as many small or large plates as you can manage. The owner and staff will go out of their way to ensure you have a good night that goes far beyond just grabbing a bite to eat in this very social atmosphere.

    De Tokio a Lima

    By far, the best meal I ate during my time in Palma was at De Tokio a Lima. With soothing music, dipped lighting, and impressive art, this swanky joint serves up a fusion menu of Peruvian and Japanese dishes with a Mediterranean twist.

    The ceviche was perfectly acidic and spicy, the Tuna Tartar delightfully dressed with Guava, and the meat was perfectly tender. Couple this with great cocktails, wine pairings and professional but not overbearing service, and you’ve got a fantastic lunch or dinner option as a treat.

    Tapalma Tapas Event

    If you find yourself in Palma during late November, then be sure to grab yourself some coupons for the Tapalma festival. These little coins can be exchanged for small plates at plenty of restaurants around the city, each highlighting their signature tapas dishes.

    One of my favourite little spots we ended up going to as part of Tapalma was La Trastienda Mallorca off the main boulevard; great food, service and an excellent shady location under a tree.

    Guide to Palma’s best places to drink and party

    While a lot of the ‘party’ attention in Mallorca, especially in the UK, is focused around Magaluf, you’ll be pleased to hear the nightlife in the capital city is much more enjoyable and, dare I say it, sophisticated. There are terrace cafes and bars on squares and boulevards, late-night cocktail venues with moody lighting, and plenty of trendy and hip spots to sip a craft brew.

    Here is my guide to Palma de Mallorca’s best spots to drink, including my favourite places I found myself boozing during my last visit.

    Rooftop views: SKYBAR at Hotel Almudaina

    You can never go wrong with a rooftop bar, and the offering of Hotel Almudaina is a great place to enjoy a cocktail or glass of local wine while admiring the Cathedral and the Mediterranean Sea beyond.

    Admiring the views from Castell Bellver

    Good Vibes: BigFoot

    This small and laid-back bar not far from the Cathedral serves up great beers and a mean margarita in a relaxed yet fun atmosphere until the early hours.

    Vintage & Tapas: Moltabarra Bar de Tapas

    Perhaps my favourite drinking spot in Palma, Moltabarra, is a trendy and vintage joint in the city centre. With a cassette rack to pick from instead of a duke-box, old magazines, records and typewriters decorating the shelves, and a delicious set of Pintxos decorating the bar, it’s a great place for both early and late drinks.

    Silent Disco: La Casa de Cookie


    Set on a quaint square near the centre, at first glance, this bar looks like a small and narrow spot with a heavy crowd upstairs. But, underground, you’ll find headphones waiting for you to enjoy a night of silent revelry – pick from mainstream pop, techno or indie on the headphones controller and enjoy the night!

    Late night: Avenida de Gabriel Roca

    Sadly, due to COVID, I didn’t make it to any nightclubs in Palma. However, many of the late-night bars we did end up in were along the waterfront at Avenida de Gabriel Roca. I can’t say any of them were particularly great or memorable, but if you don’t want the night to end, this is where you should be heading!

    Day trip ideas from Palma de Mallorca

    Mallorca has a lot to offer for every kind of traveller, whether it’s getting out on the water on a boat tour, scuba diving, hitting up some historic villages or heading into the mountains and thankfully, getting around Palma de Mallorca is pretty straightforward. Here are a few of my favourite day trips from Palma to consider if you stay longer than a weekend.

    Memorable: Port de Sóller

    One of my absolute favourite places to visit in Mallorca is Port de Sóller, a small bay and village on the island’s west coast. A big part of the magic is taking the vintage wooden train from Palma to reach here.

    The rickety wooden carriages slowly work their way through the verdant mountains, lemon trees hanging outside the carriage windows before you arrive in the town, where a small tram takes you to the coastline.

    Beach: Caló del Moro

    If you have a car, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to breathtaking bays and beaches around the island. To me, one of the most beautiful was Caló del Moro and the surrounding stretches, where rock formations, caves and cerulean waters dance around still bays perfect for swimming and relaxing.

    If you are without a car, you can still make it here by changing buses in Campos, although you may want to pick a closer bay to enjoy as a day trip.

    Quaint villages: Valldemossa

    Around a thirty-minute drive (also possible on the 200 bus) from Palma is the postcard-perfect village of Valldemossa, a popular spot for tourists and an ideal day trip from the city.

    Typical stone houses line the flower-drenched streets, set against the background of the dramatic Tramuntana Mountains. Explore the streets, soak up the atmosphere, and admire the impressive Monastery, the main attraction in this quaint village.

    Hiking: Tramuntana Mountains

    For those looking to get a little more active, the surrounding mountains of Valldemossa, the Tramuntana Mountains, which stretch along the whole west coast of the island, have plenty of hiking trails to enjoy for all levels. Or you could extend your city break into a one week Spanish trip hopping between all the idyllic hilltop towns.

    Local Flavours: Bodegas of Mallorca

    The wine history of Mallorca dates back to the Roman Period. There are many options for wine-tasting tours which depart Palma – whether it is to a historic windmill surrounded by vines or to take part in the traditional harvest around September, it’s an integral part of the island’s culture that you should not miss.

  • How To Spend a Weekend in Oviedo, Spain: Things To Do in Asturias’ Chilled-Out Capital

    How To Spend a Weekend in Oviedo, Spain: Things To Do in Asturias’ Chilled-Out Capital

    Cradled in the verdant hills of northern Spain’s Asturias region, Oviedo is a pretty, peaceful and mainly pedestrianised city break. Not only do the mountain backdrops dazzle, but so do the streets – this is regarded as Spain’s cleanest city.

    If you’re seeking a city in Spain to rush around and visit countless sights, this isn’t the one. But, if you want a laid-back city break with a couple of museums, a different culture to the country’s south, and excellent food and drink, you’re on to a winner.

    From hearty fabada stews to indulgent cachopo, the regional dishes impress. You can also expect the more than 40 kinds of cheese and local sidra to feature heavily during your weekend, too – this is the Spanish capital of cider, after all.

    Here’s how to spend a long weekend in Oviedo, Spain.

    A group play the Gaita Asturiana

    Arrival: Friday night

    My suggestions for this weekend in Oviedo are based on a Friday night arrival, and either a Sunday departure, or with an extra day for a side trip, extending your visit to Oviedo into a long weekend. All suggestions should work with the varied opening hours; however, it’s always best to check closing times (and remember Spain’s afternoon siestas) in advance.

    If after check-in at your hotel you’re looking for something low-energy to do this first evening, then it’s worth checking out the Campoamor Theatre’s programme. This stunning space is home to Spain’s second-oldest opera and certainly makes for a cultured start to your weekend in Oviedo.

    Day one: things to do in Oviedo

    After grabbing a lazy breakfast – Carbayones, a local egg and almond pastry, make for a sweet start to the day – dive into Spain’s art scene.

    Morning: See Fine Art at the Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias

    Free | Closed Monday | Accessibility: adapted access to parts of the museum

    Encompassing three different buildings – two of which are heritage – this Fine Arts museum holds an array of some 15,000 pieces. For a regional museum, it’s mighty impressive and brags one of Spain’s best collections.

    Works from famous masters such as Goya, Picasso and Dalí are on display, along with regional artists who you may not be familiar with. If you want to tour all three buildings, this will likely fill your whole morning. The museum closes for lunch at 2 pm.

    Get your fill of cheese in Oviedo

    Lunch: El Fontán, Cheese and Moscovitas

    A short walk from the Fine Arts Museum is Plaza de El Fontán, a perfect place to enjoy lunch.

    Before sitting down to enjoy some local delicacies, it’s well worth taking a little stroll around Mercado El Fontán. The market closes at 3 pm on Saturdays, and it’s shut all day Sunday, so align your timings.

    While it’s not the largest market, you’ll see the full range of Asturias cheeses and local specialities. It’s a good place to pick up items to take home, such as the beloved native white runner beans. If you want to take some cheese away, it’s better to ask for a wedge of the larger wheels or blocks and have this vacuum packed. They are usually of better quality than the small, individual wheels.

    Next door to the market is El Fontán square. Both inside the courtyard and around the 18th-century building, where trees and a bright-yellow facade create a postcard-perfect view, you’ll find places to enjoy a typical lunch. For a pricey sweet treat afterwards, head to Rialto and pick up a box of moscovitas, a local biscuit.

    Afternoon: Self-guided statue-focused walking tour

    Oviedo is a city of statues. There are around 100 outside figures dotted around the city. From busts and bums to notable figures, the sculptures provide something of a walking tour. So, keep your eyes peeled as you explore the city.

    You’ll also want to keep an ear out for the Gaita asturiana. On the weekends, walking bands often play this local bagpipe-style instrument, adding a typical soundtrack to the city.

    From El Fontán, head to Plaza de la Constitución. Flanked by the impressive Town Hall, it’s one of many pretty squares in the city. If you want to research some day trip ideas, you’ll also find the Asturias tourist office (which closes at 5 pm). From here, continue to Plaza del Paraguas, and just behind, you can spot the remains of Oviedo’s medieval walls.

    Returning to Plaza de la Catedral (where the Fine Arts museum was), take a peek inside the Cathedral of San Salvador of Oviedo. Personally, I find the ornate details on the outside the prettiest.

    From the square, it’s a straight road to San Francisco Park. This green lung in the centre of the city is worth a stroll, and you’ll find one of the city’s most beloved statues here, Mafalda, an Argentinian cartoon character. Being one of the first city’s in the world to be nearly fully pedestrianised in its core, strolling Oviedo’s streets is a real joy.

    Evening: Sidrería Tierra Astur, followed by more cider!

    Even if you aren’t a fan of cider (sidra locally), it would be criminal not to try it in Oviedo. Chigre (cider houses in Asturian) are dotted around the city, ranging from the typical to the funkier. One of the latter is Sidrería Tierra, a local chain with a few spots. I’d suggest the El Vasco branch for the most surreal experience.

    I didn’t think Oviedo’s love for cider had any surprises left for me until entering this bar-cum-restaurant constructed from literal cider. With around 100 staff rushing around, cider being poured from a high with droplets landing on the sawdust-covered floor, and some 18,000 bottles decorating the place – with even more chilling in the streams running through the dim-lit venue, there is a LOT going on!

    Cheese is a prominent feature on the menu, and there are plenty of other local and hearty dishes. But, let’s be honest, this is a place you come for the sidra and spectacle rather than first-class grub.

    In these bars, the natural cider is uncarbonated, then expertly poured from high by an escanciador. This style of pour helps add air to the beverage as it hits the glass. Only a small amount is poured at a time and needs to be drunk instantly while the bubbles are still forming. It’s fun, traditional and very entertaining – but it takes some getting use to waiting for a new pour every time you want a sip

    To continue the party into the early hours, head to Calle Gascona. Known as the “Cider Boulevard” you won’t miss it – partly due to the giant wooden keg, but also the loud atmosphere.

    Day two: things to do in Oviedo

    Sunday’s focus is all about stepping back in time. Discover some of Oviedo’s oldest UNESCO treasures, and get beyond the city limits and into the green exterior.

    Morning: Visit the Archaeological Museum of Asturias

    Free | Closed Monday and Tuesday | Accessibility: on foot only

    Start your day at the interactive archaeological museum (it’s closed Sunday afternoons) and learn about Oviedo’s UNESCO World Heritage Site before visiting them later in the day.

    Focused entirely on Asturian archaeology, the museum isn’t the biggest, but there’s more than enough to see across the three floors. The collection of archaeological discoveries is well presented, and the setting, inside a former 16th-century monastery, adds a nice touch to the displays.

    Spanning from pre-history until more recent times, the interactive elements add a nice touch to submerge you in history. The areas focused on the World Heritage Sites are particularly interesting, especially as a reference point if you visit the pre-Romanesque churches during your visit.

    Tuck into Cachopo at La Corte de Pelayo

    Lunch: Typical dishes at La Corte de Pelayo

    One of my favourite restaurants in the city; I always make sure to enjoy a meal at La Corte de Pelayo whenever I return. While it’s a big dining space, it’s well-established and popular, so you may want to book a table in advance.

    Here are a few dishes you’ll want to order to get a taste of Asturia.

    Start with the Fabada asturiana, a typical stew from the region. This hearty dish is based on the famed local beans, which, as you may have seen at the market, command a premium price tag. They are then topped with meat, such as morcilla and pancetta.

    I find this dish tootoo heavy as a main course, and I like that it’s offered as a smaller starter version here. The meat also comes on a separate plate for you to add, so if you’re vegetarian, I’d assume it’s not hard to ask for the dish sin carne.

    For the second course, take the cachopo. For this dish, two veal steaks are stuffed with cheese and ham and then coated in breadcrumbs before frying. Is it healthy? Not really, but it sure tastes good. Opt for an Asturian wine if you want to pair the meal with a local drink that isn’t cider. The reds from Cangas are particularly good, and for an aromatic digestive, try the local Licor de Hierbas.

    Church of Santa María del Naranco

    Afternoon: See the pre-Romanesque monuments

    Free | Entry requires a paid tour, only available certain days

    On the city limits – heading towards greener pastures and the slopes of Mount Naranco – well-preserved Catholic temples provide an in situ expansion on the archaeological museum. It will take around 45 minutes to walk here, or you could hop a taxi or use the city A-C bus most of the way.

    These pre-Romanesque churches are still standing proud, telling an over 1000-year-old story. While you can’t enter without a guide, you can study the facades and exterior. Heavy restoration work and reconstruction have taken place, and these are just two of the sites which make up the World Heritage-listed locations of what was once the Kingdom of Asturias.

    The larger of the two, and the first you’ll arrive at, is Santa María la Real del Naranco. Impressive – for the design and distant Cantabrian Mountains background – the building was completed in 842, initially to serve as a palace.

    A short walk beyond, and you’ll come to the equally as old but slightly smaller San Miguel de Lillo. On tip-toes, you can peer in the window and see some of the internal wall decorations in the space that was once King Ramiro I’s chapel. Above, the typical triple-arched windows are visible, so treasured they now form one of the modern-day logos of the Asturias region.

    Day three: day trips from Oviedo

    Once you’ve explored the city, soaked up the sidra, and spotted all the statues, make the most of your third day by exploring another part of Asturias to wrap up your long weekend in Oviedo.

    Option one: the coast – Gijón

    Gijón, around 30-minutes from Oviedo, is an easy day trip if you want to get to the beach. While lounging on the sands is great, there are also a few sights you could take in during your visit.

    Admire the city’s Art Nouveau architecture, venture underground to the old Roman Baths, or even visit the Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura, Spain’s largest building with a difficult past.

    Option two: the cider and cheese – Cabrales

    Asturias’s gastronomy is particularly famed for two things – cheese and sidra.

    An ideal day trip from Oviedo is to go and discover them both in the verdant countryside if you have a car. While it is possible to do this by bus (with a change in Villanueva), it might be complex and lengthy as a day trip.

    First, head to the caves of the Cabrales cheese – it’s around 90 minutes each way. This is one of the region’s most expensive and typical blue cheeses, though the strong flavour won’t be for everyone. In Las Arenas, you’ll find the Cueva del Queso de Cabrales museum. Here, you’ll walk through the production method and be taken inside the caves for a tasting of this award-winning blue cheese, still produced by rural farmers until this day. Be sure to check times and book ahead.

    On the return, call in at a small cider-producing house – sorry, designated driver. Sidrería El Pareón is a good stop and only a slight detour off the AS-114.

    Option three: the countryside – Las Ubiñas

    The lush and verdant Asturian countryside is a delight to explore, and if you want to reconnect with nature, it’s easily done.

    My favourite getaway is the Picos de Europa national park. This rugged and remote mountain range is one of the most impressive in Europe, however, it may be difficult as a day trip. There are a few guided tours to the park – such as Covadonga Lakes – but be prepared for a long day.

    For something a little closer, venture to Las Ubiñas. Car is easiest, but there are some access points by bus from Oviedo, such as Las Ventas.

    Inside the nature park, expect jagged peaks, incredible panoramas, and blissful hiking trails. Home to some particular species – such as brown bears – the habitat is pristine and protected.

    When to visit Oviedo, Spain

    Having visited Oviedo in spring, summer and autumn and had surprisingly decent weather and good visits each time, I’d say it’s a nearly year-round destination. However, this is northern Spain, so I suggest avoiding the winter when showers can be more common, especially as much of Oviedo’s appeal is outside. That said, if you just want to eat and drink well, it’s a good city break any time of year.

    Summer in Oviedo is also much more pleasant than in the south of Spain, where temperatures soar from June to August, and with many locals flocking to the coast, the city isn’t too overrun or hot to enjoy.

    Where to stay in Oviedo, Spain

    Having stayed in both mid-range and more upmarket accommodation over the years, here are a couple of my suggestions.

    Budget(ish) – Duerming Longoria Plaza Hotel Oviedo doesn’t have too much budget accommodation, but this spot is pretty affordable for a private room in a decent location. I stayed here on my first visit to Oviedo, and the fair prices and clean rooms make it a reliable pick.

    Mid-range – Gran Hotel España This hotel far exceeds the price. Great value, especially if you can get one of the top floor rooms with a little balcony – ideal for a sunny day. Modern and well-decorated rooms with coffee machines, a decent hotel breakfast, and a small lounge bar. I was very happy here on my most recent visit.

    Luxury – Barceló Oviedo Cervantes I haven’t stayed at this Barceló, but their hotels have always delivered great service, clean and well-designed rooms, and a calming atmosphere in other cities, so I’m sure this is a great pick if you want a more premium stay.

    Welcome to Oviedo, Spain

    How to get to and around Oviedo, Spain

    Oviedo’s centre is pretty compact and flat, so exploring on foot is the way to go. You can also walk out to the out-of-city churches, although this is quite the stroll – the city’s bus network can reduce that walking time significantly.

    Travelling to Oviedo by train and public transport

    If you’re coming to Asturias from elsewhere in Spain, then the train service is likely the best connection for your weekend in Oviedo. Buses are also a decent alternative. From Madrid, the journey by train takes around 4-5 hours on Renfe’s high-speed rail service, with direct connections, although sometimes a change in

    Train tickets, especially for long-distance journeys, which you should book in advance, can be made directly on the Renfe website (usually cheaper) using one of the popular and best travel apps, such as Omio. ALSA is the leading bus company for intercity travel in Spain, and the journey from Madrid takes around the same time and provides an alternative.

    BlaBlaCar, a car-share service (where you book a spare seat in the car of someone already making a journey), is also very popular in Spain and worth checking out if you struggle to find a direct connection from your starting point.

    Travel across Spain by train

    Travelling to Oviedo by plane

    The nearest airport to Oviedo is Asturias Airport, a 40 minute journey by bus from the city. Currently, there are limited flights from this airport, including from London, however the schedules have been growing rapidly each year.

    Travelling to Oviedo flight free from the UK

    If you want to visit Northern Spain from the UK without flying, you have two options. Though personally, I suggest with this type of journey you plan to spend at least 7 days in Spain to make this trip worthwhile.

    The first is to take the Eurostar to London, and from there, the train to Bayonne. To cross from France to Spain, you can opt for a two bus connection via Bilbao (likely slightly cheaper). You can expect this route to take around 16-hours if timed well.

    An alternative is to take the ferry from the UK, operated by Brittany Ferries, either departing Portsmouth or Plymouth (though some sailings are only in summer), and arriving in Santander or Bilbao. Both journeys involve two nights aboard the ship. From either arrival point, you can continue by car if driving, pick up a rental car, or take an ALSA bus, which will take between two and four hours.

    If returning the same way, you might want to consider spending a night in San Sebastian before sailing back, another enchanting coastal destination with one of the best culinary scenes in the county.

    Where to travel after Oviedo

    After your weekend in Oviedo, it’s easy to continue your journey to Gijon on the Asturian coast, head south to the architecture-studded city of León, or take the train to one of the many other best places to visit in Spain.

  • Holafly, the eSIM for travelling to Europe and avoiding roaming fees

    Holafly, the eSIM for travelling to Europe and avoiding roaming fees

    Sadly, the days of travelling with just a beat-up map and our gut instincts are long gone, and while it’s still nice to dabble in some off the beaten path adventures in Europe or further afield, the digital world we live in has undoubtedly changed the way we travel forever.

    Don’t get me wrong; there are still times I love to disconnect from everything and leave my phone at home. Whether that’s hiking in Peru or getting lost in the mountains of Tajikistan, there is no denying the sense of freedom is liberating. But then there are times when I want to be connected to the internet, not just to friends and family elsewhere, but also to the technology which can improve my trip. Over the last few years, I’ve really embraced how technology can improve my travels using the phone we all have in our pockets.

    Being able to converse with someone in Spanish or German thanks to a language app, for example, or paying a fair price for a taxi in Croatia because I can instantly work out the Kuna conversion rate, are both very helpful things that can improve the travel experience. I even use my phone when travelling to book car-pooling on BlaBlaCar or manage booking reservations on WhatsApp – the bottom line is that having a good internet connection has become somewhat essential when travelling around Europe or anywhere for that matter.

    Now, with the changes of Brexit officially kicking in and many phone operators breaking their promise not to reintroduce roaming charges, visitors from the UK (and indeed, outside of the EU) have to consider the best way to stay connected while travelling in Europe without paying more in charges than before, and an eSIM for travel to Europe from Holafly might be the most convenient solution, depending on the length and style of your holiday – due to restrictions on hotspot use. However, it might not be suitable for those working remotely.

    Most modern phones can accept an eSIM but be sure to check your device

    How have roaming charges affected travellers from the UK visiting the EU since 2022?

    This is a tricky question to answer, as I have seen in recent months some operators who promised not to bring roaming charges back make a U-turn and introduce costs, while some others have kept their promise – albeit with reduced data caps.

    Essentially, UK mobile phone operators no longer have to follow the laws regarding roaming charges as legislated by the EU Parliament. As such, operators will set their own charges and rates, and you can usually easily check these on your provider’s website.

    However, one good piece of news is that the UK government has made their own laws to at least limit these new roaming costs, if not to ban them altogether. This includes a monthly £45 limit on what you can be charged before the operator must make you aware, and then you’ll need to opt-in to further charges.

    What is an eSIM, and how does it differ from roaming?

    An eSIM is a relatively simple yet very clever technology that allows your phone to connect to an internet provider without needing to physically insert a SIM card.

    This technology is available on most new phones and makes for a solid alternative as an eSIM for travel to Europe can be quickly set up (before or during your trip) without the need to visit a shop to physically buy one.

    The other bonus is it operates alongside your original SIM, so you don’t need to remove your own country SIM and can still receive texts and calls.

    Suppose your operator is increasing roaming charges from the UK, or you are travelling from any other country outside the EU which doesn’t offer roaming at a fair price. In that case, you may want to consider this modern and alternative option.

    How to get an eSIM to travel to Europe?

    There are various different companies offering eSIM, as the technology has been around since 2015. Most recently, I have used Holafly and found the process of getting setup up very simple. The most crucial first step is to check if your phone can accept an eSIM.

    From the Holafly website, you can select the package you want – the number of days and amount of data – and make the purchase.

    Moments later, I received the eSIM by email, and to set it up on the phone, it was a matter of scanning a QR code, activating the correct settings using a simple-to-follow guide, and then it was instantly activated. It’s worth noting that the eSIM data and days begin the moment you activate it, so you want to do this on the day you travel at the earliest, not before.

    You’ll also want to ensure you have data roaming turned on for the eSIM and, more importantly, turned off for your original SIM so that your regular connection doesn’t still activate when you are travelling and rack up those fees.

    What are the advantages of an eSIM?

    I’m going to focus mainly on the benefits of using an eSIM for travel to Europe; however, many of these advantages would apply wherever you are travelling, and Holyfly offers eSIM for many destinations as varied as Australia and Ghana, to other multi-country bundles like Latin America.

    • The main benefit, of course, is being able to stay connected to the internet, check maps, keep in touch, order taxis, etc. All the things you would generally use data and roaming for without incurring any roaming charges.
    • Simple pricing for the number of days with unlimited (fair rules) data.
    • You retain your old number in your phone, as it becomes a dual SIM phone while the eSIM is activated. This is super handy as you can still be contactable by phone and text to your original number. Anyone who has ever dealt with changing a SIM card in a bar because their bank wants to send them a text message before payment, or something similar, will appreciate how helpful this is.
    • It’s more environmentally friendly – no packaging and no little SIM cards creating more plastic waste for a short trip.
    • Great for general holiday use, however, restrictions on tethering and hotspot use makes it less useful for remote workers.
    • Super convenient, as you don’t need to go and find a local store or buy a SIM. Sometimes I’ve wanted to get a SIM at the airport, so I have one to navigate straight away, but there weren’t any shops, or it was out of hours. Also, some countries require paperwork to get a SIM card which can take a lot of time. I imagine if you’re on a busy trip or a business person, this alone makes it appealing.
    • 24-hour customer support
    • Immediate delivery and setup

    What are the disadvantages of an eSIM?

    Of course, being a relatively new technology and having a couple of limits to its use, there are a couple of disadvantages to keep in mind, although these might not be a problem for most people.

    • You can’t receive calls or texts as it’s a data SIM only. This won’t be a problem for most people, as you’ll still have your standard SIM card in for any emergency calls; however, if you need to make lots of local calls and texts during your trip, it might not be the best solution.
    • Unable to be used as a hotspot (a recent change, with the introduction of unlimited data) so not ideal for anyone remote working.
    • Only compatible phones can use an eSIM, so you may still require a physical SIM card instead if you have an older model.
    • They can be slightly more expensive than using a local SIM card in some destinations, depending on the length of your trip and how much internet you will use – for example, if you need heavy bandwidth as you’re working remotely. For a lot of people, the convenience of not needing to waste your holiday time buying a SIM in a shop will outweigh this, but something to consider when budgeting.
    • You need to keep an eye on your data usage within your own phone’s settings. You won’t get a message advising you when you have nearly used it all up.
    Explore the magic of Spain without roaming charges

    How much does an eSIM for travel to Europe cost?

    The cost of an eSIM itself is free, and you aren’t paying for the initial eSIM or setup. Thus, the cost depends on the package you choose (and the destination, for example, if you want to get an eSIM for another country).

    You can see the current prices of an eSIM on the Holafly website and keep an eye out for sales, as you could buy the eSIM ahead of your trip and activate it when you depart. I expect this technology to expand and become more and more popular in the coming years, which will likely lead to even lower pricing. Mostly, they charge by the number of days, with an unlimited data cap (fair use rules apply)

    I’d suggest using caution in how much data you buy (if it’s an eSim without unlimited data) so that you don’t spend more money than you need to. This is the beauty of an eSIM. You can simply buy another one if you run out of data and activate it in minutes without going into a store.

    Overall, I found Holafly eSIM a good alternative to roaming and depending on how long your trip is and how much you’ll be using data, you might want to consider this option. Especially if you don’t want the hassle of having to deal with changing out your SIM on arrival, an eSIM for travel to Europe is certainly the most convenient option.

  • Six of Mexico City’s Sustainable & Community Tourism Companies

    Six of Mexico City’s Sustainable & Community Tourism Companies

    During my recent week-long visit to Mexico City, I was privileged with the opportunity to visit six of the businesses receiving support and mentorship from a recently launched Tourism Recovery Programme.

    From organic-only wine bars to agricultural experiences and tours with an indigenous twist, it quickly became apparent this was a programme loyal to its word – where small, sustainable travel and impactful local businesses were genuinely feeling the benefits.

    As I met more and more passionate business owners, each with their own unique stories to tell, I was reminded of just how precious travel can be – as well as being a catalyst for change.

    From Mayra, the founder of NGO Manos a la Tierra, who was now embarking on turning her conservation work into authentic tourism experiences, to Alfonso, a member of a Nopal (cactus) farming cooperative, who wanted to open the doors to travellers wishing to see behind-the-scenes of this culinary staple, each of these businesses was genuinely focused on sustainability, community and responsible tourism.

    While some of them only offer day trips in Mexico City, others, such as Trueke, have a wealth of knowledge from all corners of Mexico and can create tailor-made itineraries which include the top attractions alongside authentic, traditional experiences.

    If you plan a trip to Mexico City and seek sustainable tourism activities, I hope one of these companies becomes a part of your trip and brings you as much happiness as they did me.

    Get beyond the city centre to discover community tourism

    Introducing the Tourism Recovery Programme

    The aforementioned Tourism Recovery Programme, which has been supporting businesses in Mexico amongst other countries, is a perfect collaboration between tourism experts TUI Care Foundation, a separate entity to well-known TUI Holidays, and enpact, a Berlin-based organisation specialised in supporting entrepreneurs and their ecosystems in building capacity and growing their impact.

    Providing networking, mentorships, and training, the programme’s reach and skills development side have been helping these local operators face the challenges of a ‘post-pandemic’ world.

    As well as the training and support, an initial funds boost amounting to €9000 was supplied to nominated businesses by GIZ, a German development agency, under a commission by the German Federal Ministry for International Cooperation and Development. This allocation aimed to help the tourism companies survive the immediate impact of the pandemic in the short term, while the programme’s overall aim was to grow long-term abilities and new markets for the businesses through mentorship, training, and networking.

    You can learn more about the Tourism Recovery Programme here, but for now, let me introduce you to some of these incredible businesses waiting for your visit to Mexico City.

    Fields of Nopales on the Ruta Páak’am

    Cacti cuisine, touring the Nopal Route with Ruta Páak’am

    While many of the businesses I visited during my time in Mexico were already somewhat established in tourism, or at least volunteer space, the Ruta Páak’am team has historically worked in product production, with the Nopal (Prickly Pear Cactus) cooperative producing various delicious and healthy products in their nearby factory.

    Now, through the leadership of Alfonso, they want to invite travellers to Mexico City to step outside the inner neighbourhoods and discover the Ruta Páak’am on a full-day itinerary of gastronomy and culture.

    The tours begin at a newly constructed facility, where an expert in cacti delves into the details and facts about this plant species, of course focusing on the edible Nopals. There are no worries about not understanding any part of the day with a translator supplied.

    Learning about Nopales

    After learning about all the different plants, you’ll have a chance to cut and prepare them yourself, with all the hard work accumulating in a delicious family-style cooked meal of Nopal-based dishes.

    Other highlights of the tour include a visit to a nearby Mole factory in one of the most famed towns for its production and a spiritual ceremony inside the crater of an extinct volcano.

    Visiting the famed Teotihuacan pyramids

    Trueke, tours with a community twist

    Karen Steiner, the founder of Trueke Tours, always wants to find the balance between the top attractions and local, community-focused experiences on her tours.

    With a background working at an NGO supporting communities that natural disasters have affected, Karen has built extensive connections in all corners of the country, allowing her to piece together multi-day itineraries for travellers wishing to delve a little deeper into their travels.

    While I only had a day trip from Mexico City arranged by Trueke, they still managed to stay true to their word.

    Following a breathtaking morning balloon flight over the ancient Teotihuacan pyramids, my driver whisked me into a tiny village. Entering a small grey door, I was greeted by Ericka and her husband Rafaela, who sat me down in their living room to enjoy a proper home-cooked meal.

    While this was only a snippet of the type of local experiences Trueke offers, it gave me an idea of how personal and intimate a full tour would be. After lunch, I should have headed for a Temazcal – a sort of sweating ceremony in an igloo-shaped lodge with spiritual roots – however, this still wasn’t possible due to COVID at the time of travel.

    Seeking another side of the city with Manos a la Tierra

    Mayra Jiménez, the founder of Manos a la Tierra, is another inspiring leader with an impactful history working in NGOs. In fact, Manos started and still operates as an NGO, and recently, they have decided to expand into tourism offerings.

    Mayra sees this as a double win; for travellers, they get to connect with the nature and communities of the country, while the funds raised from the tours will allow her conservation and ecological projects to expand at a quicker pace.

    With connections and tour opportunities across the country in the pipeline, Manos a la Tierra can provide custom itineraries to travellers. For my day trip from Mexico City, I was privileged to see another side of Xochimilco. While nowadays it’s more famed for colourful trajineras boats often serenaded by Mariachi bands, historically, this UNESCO listed site’s importance started as agricultural land.

    Still, to this day, the incredible Chinampa technique of using floating gardens as farmland survives. During a day inside the Protected Natural Area of San Gregorio Atlapulco, I witnessed this first-hand.

    Unbelievably, I was the only tourist inside the protected area that day. Accompanied by David, a Chinampa farmer, I learned all about this historic farming method, which dates back to the Aztecs, floated down serene canals, and watched migratory birds flying high above the lakes. Needless to say, I quickly forgot I was in a metropolis like Mexico City!

    Different flavours with Sabores Mexico Food Tours

    Neighbourhood flavours with Sabores Mexico Food Tours & Loup Bar

    I’m sure you don’t need me to tell you that the gastronomy of Mexico is some of the best in the world. However, it’s also some of the most diverse – and local, regional flavours can be hard to find in the capital city.

    Enter Sabores Mexico Food Tours, who offer three different half-day tours in Mexico City, all focused on savouring the very best dishes it has to offer.

    During my five hours with Grace, my fantastic guide, we traversed the Colonia Roma neighbourhood – famed for its grand buildings and fascinating history – while eating multiple dishes that each amazed me.

    With a focus on small, inventive cafes and restaurants, many of which focus on lesser-known, remote regional cuisine, I took my taste buds on a journey around the country without having to walk more than a few blocks.

    Learning about the neighbourhood and the city as we strolled between each restaurant was a fantastic way to prepare my stomach for more food and understand the suburb more in-depth. If you spend any time in Mexico City, you quickly realise that not only is it incredibly vast, but each neighbourhood has its own quirks, stories and style.

    Another business supported by the Tourism Recovery Programme, Loup Bar, is also situated in Roma and is well worth a visit if you are in the area.

    In a small and quaint wood-heavy room, a couple of steps down from the street, you’ll find an organic wine menu ranging from local Mexican reds to sparkling Italian wines and even imports from the country of Georgia.

    The food menu complements the wine, focusing on organic and eco-friendly ingredients, with dishes ranging from the usual Mexican staples to French-inspired fare.

    Artistic design in Casa Jacinta

    Casa Jacinta, the guest house with a creative soul

    Creativity is ubiquitous in Coyoacán, a favourite neighbourhood for many beloved artists in Mexico City. Here, piano melodies seep out of windows while galleries, workshops and artisanal craft markets line the streets. Around the leafy squares, mime entertainers and buskers perform, flanked by grand architecture and cathedrals.

    During my time in the city, I stayed in Casa Jacinta, a boutique guest house just moments from the main square that embodies the artistic spirit of Coyoacán inhabits every room.

    Run by a family of artists, painters, writers and sculptors, this wonderful business also invests some of its profits back into fellow local artisans, allowing them to work on their own projects with financial support.

    Quiet, safe, and homely, Casa Jacinta quickly became my home away from home. From the modern, light rooms decorated with the family’s artwork to the verdant, flower-framed garden perfect for reading a book, it was indeed a peaceful retreat to return to after a day exploring the city.

  • Best Places to Visit in Mauritius: Attractions, Nature & Beaches

    Best Places to Visit in Mauritius: Attractions, Nature & Beaches

    Tumbling waterfalls shrouded by lush rainforest, volcanic crater lakes adorned with kaleidoscopic Hindu statues, and verdant tea plantations ideal for tranquil kayaking are perhaps not the first scenes that spring to mind when you imagine this idyllic island nation. They are, however, just a few of the best places to visit in Mauritius beyond the cyan waters and silky soft white sands, which make it one of the world’s best beach destinations.

    Often touted as a dream honeymoon destination, thanks to the plethora of luxury resorts and seemingly endless beaches, many overlook the other offers of one of the world’s best islands to visit.

    While, for some, the irresistible cocktails crafted with local rum and warm, welcoming Indian Ocean waters are enough of a draw, there are plenty more reasons to visit Mauritius. Here are some of the best places (in my opinion) to explore and experience, whether you want to devour delicious dishes, discover the culture, or dig into some adventure-fuelled activities.

    Grand Bassin (Ganga Talao)

    Sitting some 500 metres above sea level and set amongst the verdant mountainous southwest, the volcanic crater lake of Ganga Talao is one of the best places to visit in Mauritius both for the beautiful wild setting and to dig a little deeper into the island’s predominant religion, Hinduism.

    Start your visit with a stroll around the serene lake, often with animated monkeys keeping an eager eye, before admiring the temple, small shrines and statues of influential Hindu gods.

    During the significant pilgrimage, around February or March, for the Maha Shivaratri Festival, hundreds of thousands of worshipers flock to the lake.

    Make it happen: If you have a car, it’s an easy drive to the Grand Bassin. During February and March, when the pilgrimage takes place, hundreds of thousands of people visit the site, so worth keeping in mind. There are various tours of the island’s southwest if you are without a car, like this one, which includes time at the lake.

    Get to the heart of Mauritius’s multi-culture history

    Le Morne Brabant

    Situated on the island’s southwestern tip, the hypnotising magnificence of Le Morne Brabant is more than deserving of its UNESCO-listed status.

    Flanked by fine white sandy shores and tranquil waters that glimmer in shades of cerulean and cyan, it’s a must-visit destination in Mauritius. If you have ever seen an image of the underwater ‘waterfall’ illusion, then you’ll recognise the basaltic monolith towering in the background.

    Rising to a height of 556 metres and creating one of the most imposing backdrops for a beach day in the world, you’ll struggle to find a more impressive place to capture your holiday snaps on the island.

    The mountain, for many, is a symbol and reminder of the island’s enslaved peoples’ fight for freedom, for it was in these isolated cliffs and wooded areas that many escaped to, forming small settlements. Spend some time learning about the Maroon Republic during your time on the island.

    Make it happen: Depending on how you wish to experience the Peninsula, you can either drive or take a transfer to the beaches. If, however, you want to summit the peak, especially at sunrise, it’ll be best to book a tour with a local guide.

    Beaches around Le Morne Brabant

    Ile Aux Aigrettes

    Just a brief boat ride from the mainland, the islet of Ile Aux Aigrettes is one of many isles and boat excursion tour options to consider. What makes this a must-visit place for wildlife enthusiasts in Mauritius is the focus on scientific research within the nature reserve.

    Following some significant restoration work, it’s a paradise within a paradise, where you can witness giant tortoises roaming free (often found in pens, for protection, elsewhere on the island), the intriguing Pink Pigeon, and an extensive array of indigenous fauna and flora.

    Make it happen: There are various tours and operators running trips to the Islands.

    Bois Cheri Tea Factory

    The largest tea producer on the island, Bois Cheri, is a delightful environment and promises much more than a decent cuppa.

    Take a tour of the grounds, where row upon row of manicured tea plants guide you down to a blissful lake ideal for kayaking, before taking a tour of the factory. Witness the tea in all stages of the process, from drying to packaging, before enjoying a flavoursome tasting. The vanilla tea is one not to miss.

    Verdant and lush, the setting cries out for much more than just sampling the infusions, though. Devour a gastronomic treat in the attached restaurant to the backdrop of the rolling hills of Mauritius and playful deer. For a unique overnight adventure, you can book a stay in the small bubble lodge with a transparent domed roof ideal for stargazing – complete with the promise of the perfect morning cup of chai!

    Make it happen: The factory is open for visitors Monday – Saturday, from 9:00 – 17:00, and the roads are good for driving access. Some of the tours of the south coast include stops here.

    Port Louis & Market

    Be sure to leave time for some urban exploring during your stay, and of course, the capital city of Port Louis is the best place in Mauritius to do so.

    The compact capital offers a great insight into day-to-day life on the island, particularly for those who have opted to stay in a resort. Le Caudan Waterfront is excellent for walking, with colourful umbrellas hanging above shopping passages and an abundance of bars and restaurants to rest at along the water.

    One of the finest ways to experience and savour the flavours of the city is at the central market. The hive of activity is found on the ground floor, stocked with multicoloured fruit, veg, tea and snacks from the provinces, while local fabrics and goods are located upstairs. Often called the national dish of Mauritius, Dholl Puri is a must-try, specifically from the small vendors on the street outside. These flatbreads, stuffed with smashed split peas, are mouthwatering when topped up with a spicy chilli paste – though if your tastebuds can’t handle hot food with a kick, go easy!

    Make it happen: As the capital city, it’s easy to get to – including by local bus. The earlier you go to the market, the better, which is open from around 5:00 to 16:00, except on Sunday, when it closes earlier.

    Pamplemousses Botanical Garden

    Formally called Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden, yet more typically referred to as Pamplemousses Botanical Garden, botanists and amateurs will be drawn in by the fine array of flora.

    The oldest botanical garden in the southern hemisphere, dating back some 300 years, is only a short drive from Port Louis yet feels a world away as you trade in the atmosphere of the markets for a peaceful walk through towering palms and delicate flowerbeds.

    The pool of giant water-lilies (Victoria Amazonica) is quite the sight, and their protection is paramount due to facing extension. Allow yourself at least an hour to explore the gardens, yet with 90 acres and over 600 plants, many indigenous, you could well find yourself here for a long time.

    Make it happen: Open from 8:30 – 17:30 daily, the gardens are less than a 15-minute drive or taxi from Port Louis.

    Grand Baie

    The most popular destination for tourists to Mauritius, and with good reason, Grand Baie isn’t going to take you off the beaten path, but it serves up everything one could want for a water-based day out.

    Water sports lovers will find their day quickly filled here, with sailing, windsurfing, SUP, and countless boat excursions – including scuba diving – available along this section of the coast.

    With plenty of shops, restaurants, and nightlife until the early hours, even if you aren’t staying close by, chances are you’ll find yourself passing through Grand Baie at some point during your Mauritius holiday.

    Make it happen: A popular destination with many hotels nearby; chances are you may be close by – especially if you stay at the incredible Beachcombers resort as I did, an absolute dream of a hotel!

    Rochester Falls

    One of my favourite moments in Mauritius was the morning we spent splashing around the cold waters of Rochester Falls. There was just our group there until shortly after when a coconut seller joined us, his wrinkled handles expertly hacking open the green balls of goodness for us.

    To access these relatively small falls, we ploughed our four-wheel-drive along rough mud tracks, shrouded in towering sugar cane so close we could reach from the windows and stroke it. On arrival, it was a slippy muddy climb down to the waterfalls, but the site of the falls and chilly awakening of the waters was more than reward enough for the effort.

    Of course, there are many waterfalls dotted across the island, some easier to access than others, but for me, and perhaps it was the memory of that sweet coconut water as my feet cooled in the pool that made this one of my best places to visit in Mauritius.

    Make it happen: You’ll need a bit of adventure, and perhaps a 4WD, to explore the dense vegetation out this way, but it is well worth it! Consider booking a quad bike tour to access the falls and experience another side of Mauritius.

    A peaceful morning at Rochester Falls

    Black River Gorges National Park

    In the hilly south of Mauritius, the Black River Gorges National Park, the largest protected forest in the nation, provides ample opportunity to strap on your hiking boots and get lost entirely in leafy, dense nature. The landscapes are sublime, with the rolling hills meeting rainforest just as magical as the lapping waves on heavenly sands.

    For many, the main draw is to witness the impressive Alexandra waterfall tumbling 150 metres down into the lush greenery below. However, with hundreds of species of plants, monkeys, delightful bird-watching options, and challenging hiking trails to tackle, you could easily and happily spend a day, or longer, discovering the national park.

    Make it happen: There are many different ways to explore and experience the national park depending on your interests, but consider taking an eco-tour with a guide to get stuck in.

    Chamarel Rhumerie

    With sugar cane across the island, it should come as no surprise that one of the best places to visit in Mauritius is a rum distillery.

    At Chamarel Rhumierie, you can expect a slick tour and tasting experience on the southwest coast – from the extensive grounds to the production rooms and the all-important tasting room, where cocktails are shaken and straight pours served. Perhaps, take a taxi for this one!

    Make it happen: You can visit Monday – Saturday, between 9:00 – 16:00.

    Of course, there are plenty more amazing places to visit in Mauritius – Tamarind & Chamarel Falls, Ile Aux Cerfs, and countless other beaches.