Blog

  • Renaissance architecture, sacred statues, and plenty of vino: how to spend a weekend in Valladolid, Spain

    Renaissance architecture, sacred statues, and plenty of vino: how to spend a weekend in Valladolid, Spain

    Whizzing through arid fields appearing like a golden mirage on the horizon, a weekend in Valladolid, Spain, was awaiting. Just a short one-hour journey from Madrid – courtesy of the country’s high-speed rail network – somehow, this storied spot had slipped my radar on previous trips.

    While I’d spent time in some other cities in Castilla y León (Spain’s largest autonomous community), such as Salamanca and Segovia, this architectural feast of sacred statues and grandiose renaissance architecture was new to me, and a weekend in Valladolid seemed the perfect amount of time to get a taster.

    As it turns out, tasting is very much a part of life here, especially regarding vino. With five Designation of Origin (DOP) appellations – and twenty grape varieties – within Valladolid province, it’s a wine aficionado’s paradise. While the vines might be aged, the city’s energy remains relatively youthful, thanks to the large student population of one of Spain’s oldest universities.

    Plaza Mayor, Valladolid, Spain

    Born from a 10th-century village, Valladolid’s importance started to really grow in the 15th century. Plenty of money followed, leading to the countless Renaissance-period buildings gracing the city. For a brief moment, between 1601-1606, it even became the de facto capital of Spain.

    While the city might be most famed for its religious and sacred art or the vines on its peripherals, there’s plenty more to enjoy over a weekend visit to Valladolid, Spain. My suggestions below are based on a Friday arrival and Sunday departure and should work with the varied opening hours. Still, it’s always best to check closing times (and remember Spain’s afternoon siestas) in advance.

    Day one: arriving in Valladolid, Spain

    If you’re arriving in Valladolid on a Friday afternoon, take a brief orientation walk, admire some of the city’s wealth of architecture, and dive straight into trendy dining and wine pairing.

    Arrival: stroll through Campo Grande and by Academia de Caballería

    From the train station, the shaded Campo Grande park provides a nice arrival stroll to the historic centre. Passing peacocks roaming free and pretty fountains, you’ll exit the parking with a view of the imposing Academia de Caballería, the cavalry academy.

    Late afternoon: visit Palacio de Santa Cruz

    Open until 9 pm on Friday evenings; the 15th-century Palacio de Santa Cruz provides a little pre-dinner culture.

    Reflections of the Academia de Caballería

    Established as a college, the building still retains its historical roots, as, alongside new governmental offices, it remains a student residence with a breathtaking library (requiring a pre-booking to visit).

    The courtyard of the Palacio is particularly impressive, with Renaissance-style pillars and neoclassical windows. The building also houses the Museum of African Art , housing an extraordinary collection requiring at least an hour to appreciate fully.

    Pre-dinner drinks and tapas: Calle Cascajares

    Valladolid is very proud of its tapas (small snacks served with drinks) culture – even playing host to the World Tapas Championship – so, settle in for a pre-dinner drink at one of the lively bars and taverns along Calle Cascajares and dive in.

    Leading its way to the cathedral’s facade, this spot has a handful of terraces perfect for a warm-evening pre-dinner drink, and with Vermouth making a big comeback in Valladolid, a fortified wine-based cocktail is the perfect pairing to your tapa.

    Dinner: Melêl

    Just around the corner, Melêl restaurant hides its trendy interior behind the tables of the terraces. Inside, around a large, communal dining table, flanked by video screens projecting the staff eating and drinking so that you are all ‘part of the experience’, you’ll find the magic.

    If you opt for the wine-pairing menu, you’ll enjoy a serenade for your palate. Innovative dishes with modern presentations are matched with quality wines from the region and beyond, and the atmosphere is fun with sharing the space with fellow diners. This was my favourite spot I ate in the city, and reservations are highly recommended.

    Drinks: Bizarro Bar Independiente

    On the same streets as Melêl, a handful of late-night bars will be closing their terraces post-dinner, with the party continuing inside.

    Bizarro Bar Independiente, a welcoming-to-all space, is a good starting point for a post-dinner drink, with plenty more late-night options in this student-heavy city should you want to keep the party going.

    Historic porticos in Valladolid

    Day two: things to do in Valladolid, Spain

    As this schedule is based on a Saturday stay, you’ll want to check opening hours should you be visiting on another day. The cooking school, for example, currently only offers public classes on Saturday mornings.

    Morning: Cooking Workshop

    Start your Saturday learning how to cook some delicious Spanish dishes at Valladolid’s International Cooking School.

    While this renowned chef school is producing the culinary stars of tomorrow, Monday to Friday, on Saturday mornings, they offer public classes ranging from tortillas to rice dishes and anything in between.

    You’ll need to book ahead to guarantee your spot, but it’s a fun activity followed by a feast of your own making.

    At the Valladolid Cooking School

    Late morning: Iglesia de Santa María la Antigua or Museo Patio Herreriano

    Getting inside the 11th-century Iglesia de Santa María la Antigua isn’t an easy task, as opening hours vary. However, there’s a good chance to visit on Saturday mornings or at least to admire the architecture from the outside.

    While the architecture has changed over the centuries, the now Gothic-presenting church has become a symbol of the city. Next door are the remains of Roman Baths, which finally confirmed a Roman presence in Valladolid when they were unearthed during the construction of a car park in 2012.

    If you’re not interested in the church, an alternative is to head to the Museo Patio Herreriano. Here, you’ll find an impressive collection of modern art, mainly from Spanish painters, is housed here, inside a well-preserved 12th-century monastery.

    Lunch: wine tasting at Vinoteca Señorita Malauva

    With more than 600 wines, 75 beers, and not much else to drink, the colourful and slightly flamboyant Vinoteca Señorita Malauva is the place to come to try Valladolid’s famous wines without venturing into the vineyards.

    The charismatic Gustavo pairs wines from Valladolid’s five DOP appellations – Rueda, Cigales, Toro, Tierra de León and Ribera del Duero – with cold cuts, an array of cheeses, and creative dishes, all focused on local ingredients. Expect to over-indulge here, and for non-drinkers, alcohol free wines are offered.

    Late afternoon: Admire the Iglesia de San Pablo and Museo Nacional de Escultura

    The National Museum of Sculpture is open until 7:30 pm, allowing for a later afternoon visit to this magnificent building. While the Semana Santa (Holy Week) sculptures might not be to everyone’s taste – both due to religious and macabre reasons – the architecture of this grand 15th-century building is reason enough to visit.

    Originally, this religious complex was the Colegio de San Gregorio, and it wasn’t until 1842 it was founded as a museum, originally with artworks confiscated from converts. Over the years, the collection has vastly expanded to show the city’s significant Semana Santa celebrations at Easter, although, from many of the self-flagellation sculptures, I can only assume it’s a much more sombre event here than in Andalucia.

    Be sure to take time to appreciate the courtyards, ornate ceilings, and imposing staircase, as well as the Isabelline-style facade of the building and Iglesia de San Pablo next door.

    Pre-dinner drinks and tapas: Pasaje Gutiérrez

    Combine a pre-dinner drink with a slice of commercial history at one of the cocktail bars inside this 19th-century passageway. A vintage mix of steel, glass and frescoed-style ceilings make the setting an excellent spot for a glass of wine.

    For dinner, take your pick of the many restaurants across the city, or consider an evening slice of culture at the Teatro Calderón de la Barca, a magnificent theatre of rich-ruby seating that opened in 1864.

    Day three: things to do in Valladolid, Spain

    Enjoy a lazy Sunday breakfast before enjoying the few attractions in the city that remain open all weekend, although you’ll need to keep an eye on the watch for closing hours.

    Prefer to head out of the city?

    The city’s surroundings are awash with castles and vineyards and the artificial Canal of Castile, a dreamy setting to cycle along and see little villages alongside aqueducts and castles. The five appellations and twenty grape varieties make the vineyards equally tempting. However, you’ll need to check if any are open on a Sunday (or whichever day you are visiting) in advance.

    Morning: visit the El Palacio Real

    The Royal Palace has played host to many of Spain’s royal monarchs and was home of the Royal Court during Valladolid’s short-lived status as the defacto capital of Spain.

    Nowadays, the military uses the building, making a visit complicated. Luckily, on Sunday mornings (10:30 am) you can join a guided tour to venture inside. While much of the space is restricted, you’ll have the chance to visit the opulent throne room, marvel at the intricate stonework on the courtyard’s floor, and visit the imposting staircase, amongst other open spaces.

    Late morning: tour the Cathedral’s Tower or Casa de Cervantes

    On Sunday mornings, guides offer the chance to venture to the top of Valladolid’s cathedral tower every hour.

    Thankfully, there is a lift, so you don’t need to climb all 364 wooden steps, although some stairs will need to be taken to reach the bell tower.

    While this cathedral has never been completed, the original plans (on display) show how it planned to be the largest Christian building in the world during its construction time. From the top, the views aren’t as impressive as some other towers, however, the unique and historic timepiece that controls the bells ringing is intriguing to witness.

    Lunch: Plaza Mayor

    Head to one of the restaurants around Valladolid’s Plaza Mayor for lunch. There are a handful of options to choose from here – head to Helados y Turrones Iborra for post-lunch ice cream – and after 11 am, the road passing through closes, making it a more pleasant time to visit.

    If you study the floor, you’ll eventually come across a plaque dedicated to Christopher Columbus. His first tomb is believed to have been here, inside a convent that used to exist before the plaza.

    Afternoon: Real Monasterio de San Joaquín y Santa Ana

    If you haven’t already departed and fancy a final slice of religion (there are a lot of Baby Jesus impressions) and the chance to see a panel by renowned painter Francisco Goya, wrap up your weekend in Valladolid at the 16th-century Monasterio de San Joaquín y Santa Ana.

    Still inhabited by nuns today – their income comes from renting part of the space to a restaurant – the visitable areas house a small museum of religious art. The small church attached is where you’ll find the three pieces painted by Goya, but as it only opens at Easter to the public, you’ll need to pay the monastery’s entrance fee to see them.

    Where to stay in Valladolid, Spain

    Valladolid has a varied choice of accommodation, here are a few suggestions right in the heart of the city,

    Budget: Hostal Ramón y Cajal Valladolid isn’t the cheapest destination for accomodation, and the most affordable options are usually far from the centre. These basic rooms therfore are a reliable choice.

    Mid-range: Hotel Boutique Gareus I spent my visit in this hotel and found it a good choice. The rooms were very spacious, good blackout curtains, mid-way between the main centre and the train station, and the public spaces were nicely decorated.

    Luxury: AC Hotel Palacio If you don’t mind being a little out of the centre, this incredible 5* hotel in a converted 18th-century monastery provides a rather grand and tranquil retreat.

    Sacred art in the Museo Nacional de Escultura

    When to visit Valladolid, Spain

    Summer is a very hot and dry time to visit Valladolid, Spain, although the evenings can still be quite chilly. The average daily temperatures of 30°C in summer seem okay, but they can often peak much higher.

    Personally, I’d suggest heading here in Spring or Autumn when the weather isn’t as intense. In October, the wine harvest takes place, so this could be the best time to visit Valladolid if you want to be a part of these events in the vineyards.

    Valladolid’s river beach

    How to get to and around Valladolid, Spain

    Exploring the city centre is easily done on foot, although if you plan to cross the river and head further afield, you might want to use the city bus network. Some public buses leave the city to small villages near some vineyards, but always check the weekend schedules as services can be reduced or non-existent, compared to the weekday routes.

    Travelling to Valladolid by train

    If you’re coming to Valladolid from elsewhere in Spain, then using the train service is likely the best connection, with buses being a decent alternative. From Madrid, the journey by train takes around 90 minutes on Renfe’s Avila service (high-speed rail), while from nearby León, you can reach Valladolid in less than an hour. Tickets can be booked on the Renfe website (usually the cheapest) or using one of the popular and best travel apps, such as Omio.

    Travelling to Valladolid by plane

    The nearest airport to Valladolid is Valladolid Airport. However, it is mainly used for domestic flights. If you choose to fly, then opt to arrive in Madrid, and from the airport, it’s about 90 minutes by train connection to the city.

    Travelling to Valladolid flight free from the UK

    If you want to visit Valladolid from the UK without flying, you have two options.

    The first is to take the Eurostar from London, and from there, the train to Hendaye, followed by another train from San Sebastian. Alternatively, you can take a two-bus connection from London via Bilbao (likely slightly cheaper).

    An alternative is to take the ferry from the UK, operated by Brittany Ferries, either to depart Portsmouth or Plymouth (though some sailings are only in summer) and arrive in Santander or Bilbao. Both journeys involve two nights aboard the ship. From either arrival point, you can continue by car if driving or take an approximately 3-hour train journey to Valladolid.

    Next, head to the Cathedral of León

    Where to travel after Valladolid

    From Valladolid, it’s easy to continue your journey by train to explore the other cities of Castile and León, such as León or Salamanca.

  • Why Visit Austria in Summer? Holiday Ideas From the Alps to Unesco Old Towns

    Why Visit Austria in Summer? Holiday Ideas From the Alps to Unesco Old Towns

    For many people, the hottest months mean escaping to the beach, which can leave landlocked countries such as Austria a less obvious summer holiday choice. But perhaps that’s exactly what makes it so appealing to fellow summer in Austria stans like myself. Don’t get me wrong, I adore the coast – I mean, I live in the Algarve – but I usually prefer my sandy escape in the shoulder season when the mid-day heat is less intense and crowds far fewer.

    That’s why I’ve been gleefully spending some of my summer holidays in Austria over the last few years. For a long time, I’d only visited in winter, charmed by the snowscapes, ice caves, and festive markets. But now, my seasonal loyalties have shifted. From the start of summer solstice celebrations to the creeping in of the wine harvests in autumn, these blissful and bright months are awash with unforgettable outdoor moments.

    I love how, as the sun climbs higher, the energy in the cities rises too. How the mountains seemingly stand taller once they have shaken off their winter snow coat. And, with ice a distant memory, the sparkling lakes lure you in once more. Sure, skiing is almost a winter religion for those passionate about pistes, and those freshly dusted peaks add extra enchantment to the Christmas markets. But if you ask me, Austria’s magic is in these milder, warmer days, when you can put two feet forward, dive into a dazzling lake, or simply enjoy a stein of beer on a sun-bathed terrace.

    There are numerous reasons to visit Austria in summer, plenty of incredible ideas of what to do when the sun is radiating and an abundance of different itineraries you can follow – whether on foot, bike, train or car – without skiing being the snowy staple. Here, I’ve tried to share my picks of the best for your Austrian summer holiday, just in case you’re still on the fence about when is truly the best time to visit Austria.

    Reasons to visit Austria in summer

    If you’re weighing up the reasons to holiday in Austria this summer or still deciding if it’s better to wait until the winter snow turns the country into a powdery-white wonderland, let me tell you why I love Austria in summer.

    Innsbruck’s Old Town bathes in the sunshine while terraces invite you to pause

    Cities are still special sans skiing and snow

    If there is one thing that Austria does really well, it’s the country’s Christmas Markets – the kind that completely transforms an already snow-coated city into something even more enchanting. Salzburg was even the birthplace of (probably) the first Christmas carol, Silent Night. But that doesn’t mean they are one-season wonders, and summer in Austria is just as memorable.

    In Salzburg, a year-round festival and concert programme makes it magical in the summer when performances move outside to the likes of the Mirabell Palace’s garden. Vienna’s coffee culture and classical architecture give way to overflowing terraces and picnics in the Stadtpark. And in sustainable Graz, with the heavy-student population off for the summer holidays, the UNESCO-listed Old Town feels slightly calmer.

    Perhaps the most notable urban difference can be found in Innsbruck. Wedged in a valley between mountain ranges that you feel can be touched from the Old Town, the city is an absolute haven for winter sports lovers. Cable cars run right from the city up to the peaks and pistes, and seeing people carrying skis on the high street isn’t even an oddity. Fast forward to the end of spring, and you’ve got a completely different picture: the Old Town’s famous gold roof shines without a snow topper, terraces overflow, and those cable cars keep running but now to epic hiking trails through Tyrol’s famous mountains. Innsbruck in summer is something special, but that’s also true of Austria in summer as a whole.

    The Cinema of Nature, Leogang, is the perfect summer escape

    Outside living equals summer holidays in Austria

    Austria’s cities are captivating year-round, but perhaps, like me, you’d rather spend your summer holiday in Austria outside? No problem! This Alpine escape is an absolute al fresco marvel in the warmer months, and you don’t even have to strap on your hiking boots to enjoy it!

    Summer in Austria comes in plenty of different forms. Want to sit back, relax, and soak in the sun and scenery? Take a Danube river cruise and witness the Wachau wine region slip by from the outside deck, or head to Styria’s open-air museum to dive into the nation’s history. You can even do nothing atop the Alps, whether it’s taking the city-centre cable cars in Innsbruck or riding the gondola to a ‘Cinema of Nature’ atop The Asitz Mountain.

    Then, of course, you’ve got all those tempting cafe terraces in Vienna, lazy strolls along the shores of Lake Hallstatt before staring in awe at perhaps the country’s most famous village and heaps of fantastic cycling trails which connect medieval castles, traditional taverns and remote settlements. Spending summer in Austria means spending summer outside, and that is by far one of the country’s biggest warm month appeals.

    Inside the Rein Abbey, blissfully quiet at the end of summer

    Losing the crowds is easy

    One of my favourite things about Austria is how easy it is to find your own remote slice of serenity, and a summer holiday in Austria will gift you plenty of peaceful moments if you pick your destination wisely.

    For sure, some of the most famous places to visit in the country, such as Hallstatt or Salzburg’s many attractions, will always be popular, but enjoy an Austrian city break in less famous Linz, or a mountain escape to Saaflden Leogang, and you won’t find it hard to get away from the crowds. Even when you board a busy cable car in Innsbruck up the Patscherkofel, you won’t have to walk too far to find the simple joys of Austria’s summer silence.

    The same can apply to some of the country’s best cultural attractions, even if you’ll never get Vienna’s Imperial Palaces to yourself. Still, on a summer day, many people will be more inclined to be outside than walking around the Rein Abbey near Graz or Innsbruck’s Ambros Palace.

    Even at the start of Autumn, Salzburgerland’s lakes are still tempting

    Lake swims over sun, sea and sand

    Perhaps the biggest hurdle for many people to overcome when planning their summer holiday is the fact that Austria is landlocked. But no matter whether you love the beach or have zero interest in tanning, this mountainous nation more than comes through with an excellent alternative: outstanding, crystal-clear, and tempting lakes.

    After an afternoon of kayaking or lounging around Lake Wolfgangsee in Salzburgerland, you’ll quickly see that spending summer in Austria can be as equally about the water as heading to the coast.

    Kitesurf at Lake Neusiedl, marvel at the turquoise fringes of Lake Achen in Tyrol, or head to Lake Constance, where you can hop on a boat after bathing to visit two other countries – Germany and Switzerland – all on the same day. Austria’s lakes are a true summer oasis, and the lack of a coastline shouldn’t be a reason to skip Austria in summer.

    Visit a Styrian Buschenschank in summer for cold plates and wine

    Harvest and produce, especially on summer’s fringes

    When it comes to food, I think it’s fair to say that Austria’s traditional heaty mountain staples aren’t exactly what you want to eat on a hot summer’s day. Still, there is far more on the menu than that.

    One of the best summer destinations for fresh food, farmers’ markets, and even start-of-season wines is the fertile region of Styria. Here, you can spend some days enjoying the best things to do in Graz: sightseeing and eating sustainable global cuisine before venturing out to the nearby vineyards and farms. Orchards, vineyards, and farmland coat the countryside just beyond the city’s limits, and you’ll be showered with scrumptious dishes, whether they are cold cuts at a typical Buschenschank or mouthwatering plates at award-winning restaurants.

    The mountain trails come calling during Austria’s summer

    The lofty peaks of Austria’s Alps might be most celebrated in winter, thanks to the piled-high snow, glaciers, and skiing opportunities. Once that all melts, however, you’re left with soaring slate peaks, exquisite Alpine forests, and no longer frozen lakes – all of which means one thing: hiking.

    Yes, Austria in summer is a true hikers eden, with long-distance or day trails for all abilities. In Innsbruck, I was amazed at how accessible the mountains were with adapted step-free platforms to the cable cars, making it ideal for both a family holiday and more experienced hikers. In Leogang, I fell in love with the trails to a still lived-in Hermitage and those that were lined with artwork, while in Wachau, the low-slung hills and flat river-side trails offer an even more low-impact option.

    Still, it’s those grand, lofty and epic trails that get the most attention, and if you love adrenaline and adventure, you’re in for a treat. The Stubai Glacier is still an incredible sight in summer, the waterfall trails in the High Tauern are a treat, and rock climbers and bikers are equally rewarded at spots such as Bikepark Leogang. Summer in Austria means strapping on those boots and breathing in that fresh Alpine air, a truly blissful way to enjoy the sunshine.

    Vienna’s classical charm is as appealing in summer as in winter

    Culture and the classics are available year-round

    To end on a somewhat unoriginal note, I need to trot out that now famous quote: “The hills are alive with music” – because they very much are, especially in summer.

    Mountains and music go hand-in-hand across the country, and summer is perhaps the best time to soak it all up. Salzburg, the birthplace of Mozart, is awash with entertainment during the more than century-old Summer Festival – in fact, Salzburg’s concert programme is packed year-round. In the Leogang Mountains, summer classical performances occur up in the Eastern Alps before being re-played through speakers in little huts.

    Across the country, the culture continues. In Graz, the Springfestival marks the arrival of summer in Austria, while Vienna’s museums and cultural institutions are accompanied by plenty of outside events and festivals. Then, in Innsbruck, those long summer evenings mean traditional folk concerts and festivals are in full swing. As tempting as it might be just to sit in a beer garden and soak in the sun by the evening, I’m sure you’ll find those long summer nights in Austria end up being packed out with music, art, festivals and good times.

    Best things to do in Austria in summer

    Picking out the best things to do in Austria during summer is no easy task, and this list could easily be much longer, but here are just five of my favourite summer activities.

    Enjoy a summer city break in Innsbruck

    All of Austria’s cities have an awesome atmosphere in summer, but Innsbruck in summer is perhaps the city break most transformed. Spend your days up the top of mountain ranges – you can reach the 2,300-metre heights of the Nordkette Range in around 30 minutes – or watch summer ski jumpers at Zaha Hadid’s impressive Bergisel building. Then, dip into a palace or museum before soaking up the long Tyrol summer nights along the river with entertainment. It’s the perfect pocket-sized Alpine city break.

    The Asitz Mountain comes alive in summer with a cultural hiking programme

    Hike up The Asitz Mountain

    My favourite hike so far in Austria wasn’t the most intense or even the highest. In fact, you can pretty much get to all of The Asitz Mountain’s attractions via cable car. No, what makes the ‘Mountain of Senses’ – as it has been nicknamed – so appealing is the cultural inclusions dotting the mountainside. Sit back on a lazy chair and admire Mother Earth at the ‘Cinemar of Nature’, hike the art gallery trail to the still-water pool installations, or sit inside a small wooden hut called a TONspur and listen to a classical concert replay. This is summer in Austria at its most cultured best.

    Enjoy Salzburg’s Summer Festival

    There are so many summer events and festivals all around the country, but it’s the Salzburg Summer Festival which has stood the test of time and has been delivering world-class performances for over 100 years. If you’re heading to the city of Mozart in July or August, try and grab a ticket to a concert.

    Watch a classical concert at Salzburg Summer Festival

    Enjoy some R&R around Salzburgerland’s lakes

    Austria’s lakes are something special, and if you visit the country in summer, you’ll certainly see them at their best. My personal favourite is Wolfgangsee as you can get there easily and quickly from Salzburg by public transport; there’s a handful of different villages around with boats connecting them; cable cars will bring you to the mountains alongside the cerulean pool, and watersport rentals are easy to find. If you go, seek out the unique Red Bull HQ nearby – it basically floats above its own lake!

    Cruise the Danube River and visit Wachau’s vineyards

    You don’t need to be wealthy to enjoy a cruise along the Danube River – at least if only for a day trip. For less than €50, you can book one of the combined boat and train tickets, which will see you sail from Melk (home of the famous Abbey) along the Danube River, spotting castles and vines along the way. Then, for the return, you can take the scenic train through Wachau’s vineyards. It’s a beautiful summer’s day out and, unsurprisingly, one of the most popular ways to spend a day in Austria.

    Cruising along the Danube near Melk on an overcast summer’s day

    How to spend summer in Austria: three sample itineraries

    Not sure how to spend your summer holiday in Austria? Here are a few of my favourite summer in Austria itinerary suggestions for making the most of one week in the country.

    Four fast-paced cities by train

    Combine the most famous cities of Austria into a summer train trip over seven fast-paced days. Spend days one and two exploring the two sides of Vienna, with visits to Hofburg Palace and Belvedere Museum, before making time for the more contemporary sights and galleries. On day three, take a train to Graz (approx 2.5 hours) to explore the courtyards, clock tower and Styrian armoury before eating arguably the country’s best cuisine.

    On the afternoon of day four, board the train (around 4 hours) to Salzburg, where you can enjoy an evening concert, and then visit the Mirabell Palace and Hohensalzburg Fortress the following day. Day six will see you continue to Innsbruck (2 hours), where you can visit the Imperial Palace and spot the Golden Roof before heading to the Nordkette range on the first cable car of day seven. If that’s a little too fast-paced for you, cut out Graz – it’s an amazing city but a little bit of a detour compared to the others.

    Explore Austria in the summer by train makes for some amazing views

    Trails and lakes bookended by culture

    If you’d prefer to immerse yourself in the natural beauty of Salzburgerland and Tyrol, spending a week enjoying landscapes, lakes, and epic trails, then this is the one for you. Spend the first day days of your visit to Salzburg to get a little of the city’s culture before heading out to Salzburgerland’s lakes. Base yourself for a few nights in the cute lakeside town of St Gilgen (reachable by bus from the city) and enjoy everything that summer in Austria celebrates: pristine lakes, hiking trails, cable car rides, and watersports.

    Next, take yourself off to Tyrol for a few days. Either base yourself in Innsbruck, and use the Innsbruck card to get to hikes via cable car connections up the Nordkette and Patscherkofel, or if you have a car, you could spend some time hopping between some of Tyrol’s other natural wonders, such as Achen Lake.

    Wine and culture road (or train) trip

    For my last suggestion – of which there could be many more – why not spend your summer holiday in Austria not just soaking up the landscapes, but also the delicious wine. This would work as a road trip (easier to get to vineyards) if you have a designated driver, but it’s also tempting and pretty straightforward by train if everyone wants to try more than just a sip of wine. I’d also suggest coming towards the end of summer, as the main harvest in Styria starts in September.

    Start your trip in Graz to spend a day exploring the UNESCO-listed old town of the city before enjoying a couple of days exploring the nearby Styrian vineyards and farmlands – plan a stop at the Open Air Museum to see historic houses and buildings in a well-preserved state. On day four, head off to Vienna for a night of cultured highlights – palaces, museums, or whatever takes your fancy. Then, spend a couple of days staying alongside the Danube River, perhaps near Melk or Krems, which you can use as a base for Wachau vineyard visits, river cruises, and a guided tour of the impressive Benedictine Melk Abbey.

    Or, if you want to be really chill, escape to an Alpine lodge with a sauna, like the gorgeous Stockinggut Leogang, and do nothing but relax, read a book, and admire the views – they are, after all, what makes Austria so special in the first place!

  • A quick guide to Sri Lanka’s UNESCO attractions

    A quick guide to Sri Lanka’s UNESCO attractions

    Sri Lanka is renowned for its golden sand beaches and tea-plantation-coated countryside, yet there are plenty of historical sites to explore. In fact, there are eight World Heritage Listed locations across the country, and Sri Lanka’s UNESCO attractions provide an alluring mix of spirituality, ancient kingdoms, and endemic fauna and flora.

    On my first visit to the country, truly one of the most beautiful islands I’ve visited, I was left in awe by the dazzling beaches, verdant and lofty tea country, and the ancient citadels and temples bejewel the nation.

    With a rich and varied history that has seen the island ruled by various monarchs and powers over the years, the UNESCO attractions of Sri Lanka range from ancient pilgrimage sites to colonial towns.

    While Sri Lanka has suffered in recent years from the global pandemic and political and economic upheaval, the country remains open for tourism, and the UK government has now lifted its advice against travel. Still, you’ll need to check Electronic Travel Authorisation requirements (a type of pre-arrival visa) before planning your trip to this magnificent nation that captured my heart.

    Here’s a quick rundown of Sri Lanka’s UNESCO attractions, and if you want to discover even more reasons to visit the country, be sure to check out more in-depth Sri Lanka travel guide.

    Inside the Dambulla Cave Temples, one of Sri Lanka’s UNESCO attractions

    Golden Temple of Dambulla

    I’ll start with my favourite of Sri Lanka’s UNESCO attractions, the pilgrimage site, the Dambulla Cave Temple.

    For over two millennia, pilgrims have been flocking to this complex of temples, and across the five sanctuaries, there are some incredibly well-preserved cave paintings to be seen.

    Tucked away behind the imposing Golden Buddha of Dambulla statue, the site is easily reached from Sigiriya (meaning the two UNESCO attractions can be combined), and a staircase leads up to the caves above.

    With more than 150 statues decorating the complex and the magnificent Buddhist murals inside the caves, it’s a true sight to behold and shouldn’t be missed.

    Ancient Polonnaruwa

    While the Kingdom of Polonnaruwa isn’t one of the oldest UNESCO attractions in Sri Lanka, it doesn’t make it any less worthy of a visit.

    This was the country’s second capital (after Anuradhapura, see below), serving as the nation’s helm between the 11th and 13th centuries. As one of the best preserved ancient cities, it’s unsurprising that Polonnaruwa has earned world heritage listed status.

    Of particular fascination is the forward-thinking irrigation system constructed under the rule of King Parakramabahu. Keen to expand the country’s cultivation, an impressive network of water channels and reservoirs were erected. These can be best appreciated at Parakrama Samudra, alongside the medley of ancient monuments.

    Sigiriya Citadel, Sri Lanka’s UNESCO attraction high above

    Ancient Citadel of Sigiriya

    While this ancient citadel is impressive from afar, climbing Sigiriya is undoubtedly the best way to appreciate this ‘city in the clouds’, which was constructed in the 5th century.

    Perched atop ‘the Lion’s Rock’ – which peaks at an impressive 180 metres – this historic settlement is a true masterclass in ancient engineering. Sadly, much of what was once crowning the granite peak has been lost; however, ruins and low walls remain, and the panoramas across the Central Province spilling out below are spectacular.

    Most interesting, to me at least, was again the water systems used here, as it’s no easy task to get water pumped up to this height. Equally as impressive is the huge lion’s mouth, which dominates one of the final staircases – you’ll certainly want to pack your camera for this one!

    If you only have time to visit a few of Sri Lanka’s UNESCO attractions, then Sigiriya and the nearby Dambulla Caves can be combined together into a long day trip.

    Historic Sacred City of Anuradhapura

    The heart and soul of Sri Lanka for centuries, only falling in 993 following an invasion, Anuradhapura is one of the most storied UNESCO attractions in Sri Lanka.

    Enveloped by dense jungle, Buddhism defined the first capital of Sri Lanka which has been dated back as far as the 5th century BC. Having played home to countless Kings over the following centuries, unsurprisingly, the city flourished, and a wealth of grand palaces, temples, shrines, and monasteries were constructed here.

    Nowadays, you can visit ancient sacred trees, explore lakeside temples such as Isurumuniya, and still see weather ponds that were used for irrigation, another testament to Sri Lanka’s ancient engineering practices.

    Old Town Galle Lighthouse

    Old Town Galle

    Situated on a southwestern headland, the historic city of Galle and its fortifications are another of Sri Lanka’s UNESCO attractions. The historic core tells a more ‘recent’ side of the nation’s history, in particular, the times of European invasion and colonisation.

    Founded and constructed by the Portuguese in the 16th century and then later fortified and developed by the Dutch. By the time the British invaded and claimed the island, Galle had become well-established as a trading port for spices.

    This continuous flow of people and products has led the Old Town to develop its style, differing slightly from the rest of the country. With a mix of European and Asian architecture, it’s a delight just to spend a day wandering here, hopping between the historic mansions, clock tower, church, and museums.

    Galle and the nearby beaches make for a great and peaceful base to explore this part of the country and discover some of the best things to do in Sri Lanka.

    Inside a temple in the Sacred City of Kandy

    Sacred City of Kandy

    While the whole ancient City of Kandy is World Heritage Listed, it’s the Temple of the Tooth that is perhaps the best-known reason for this destination being a popular UNESCO attraction in Sri Lanka.

    A vast and important Buddhist site that dates back to the 14th century, Kandy was the final Sinhalese monarch’s capital before the British took control of the country. Once you enter the complex, you’ll feel a serene sense wash over you, although the crowds can make this disappear quite quickly.

    If you have the chance to visit the Temple of the Tooth, which houses a sacred tooth from Lord Buddha, you’ll encounter the busiest part of Kandy, as the doors to this temple only open three times daily.

    Central Highlands

    While Sri Lanka’s UNESCO attractions mainly focus on ancient architectural and archaeological treasures, two of the World Heritage Listed sites are natural rather than manufactured.

    The most spectacular, to me at least, is the Central Highlands, which span across the country’s south-central region. Clambering thousands of metres above sea level, forests line the mountainsides, and wildlife like the Sri Lankan leopard find refuge in the untouched quarters.

    Crossing Sri Lanka’s inland beauty is just as majestic as lounging on the beaches, and the now iconic Kandy to Ella train journey is one of the best ways to traverse the lush and verdant interior.

    Tea fields in Sri Lanka’s lush interior

    Sinharaja Forest

    The final UNESCO attraction on the list is one I sadly didn’t make it to: the Sinharaja Forest Reserve.

    A biodiverse national park, its position inland from Galle means it’s not that hard to visit location-wise. However, to protect the rich fauna and flora, you can only enter the park on foot when a certified guide escorts you.

    Housing endemic trees and endangered species of birds, wildlife, and amphibians, this almost untouched tropical rainforest promises one of the most natural experiences in the whole country. Hopefully, its World Heritage Listed statues help keep it that way!

  • Checking in: Stockinggut, Leogang Hotel Review – an almost all-inclusive Austrian Alps experience

    Checking in: Stockinggut, Leogang Hotel Review – an almost all-inclusive Austrian Alps experience

    If I close my eyes, it’s just me and the birds. The tap water tastes like an iced glacier. Occasionally, a little lick of a light breeze crosses my face, a refreshing relief to the warm mountain air that, just a few weeks before, would have sent the snow cascading down from the rugged peaks before me.

    When I open my eyes, the jagged yet verdantly carpeted mountains spread out before me like a blockbuster movie scene. Mesmerised, I spend an hour just staring forward – the Austrian equivalent of ‘Are you still watching’ on Netflix – the cedars and blue skies even more appealing in this modern world of screens and blue light.

    The hotel sits close to the Asitz Gondola

    I alternate between the two balconies, impossibly trying to decide which view is more impeccable before I give up and accept both are winners. It’s only been 90 minutes since I checked into Stockinggut, a wooden-clad retreat in the shadow of Mount Asitz, but I already don’t want to leave.

    I decide to do something I rarely do and unpack fully. I want this little slice of paradise in the Austrian Alps to feel like a true home, even if it’s temporary. This almost all-inclusive style escape to the Alps is the perfect base to rejuvenate, explore the surrounding villages and mountains, and leave – I hoped – recharged.

    Why the Stockinggut by AvenidA in Leogang?

    In winter, the hotel and surroundings become a wonderland of powder white snow; thus, it is a popular destination for ski-in and ski-out holidays.

    However, in Austria’s summer, when I stayed, the landscape changed entirely. Lush and brightly coloured vistas of full-leafed pines line the valley. Fuschia and white flowers tumble from wooden homes, creeping out from the villages. Silent gondolas climb up from the valley to impeccable mountains full of trails. And here, in a prime spot moments from the lift station, Stockinggut provides a room with a view of the outskirts of laid-back Leogang. This isn’t exclusive to this corner of the world, with summer in Innsbruck and other cities meaning an equal change of environment, but perhaps here, with mountains in all directions, it seems a little more pronounced.

    Balcony views from the Bedroom

    There is a range of things to do in Saalfelden Leogang, the two towns that form this region. Hikes to hermitages, delicious organic dishes, schnapps distilleries, historic castles and museums, and of course, the star of the show, The Asitz Mountain.

    This remarkable peak, known as ‘the mountain of senses’, combines Austria’s love of all things cultural with mother nature’s finest work. Art trails wind through the forest, orchestral concerts play lakeside in summer, and small wooden huts recreate the music with a view for those who want a moment of meditation. This mountain alone is a reason to visit, and the Stockinggut is a great base to explore.

    Bedroom

    The Rooms

    The Stockinggut can be suitable for couples, friends, families or groups due to a range of room options. From standard double rooms to larger apartments, you can make your choice. My one-bedroom apartment with a full kitchen (ideal for cooking up the local organic produce), two balconies, and a spacious bathroom was more than perfect. The lounge area, with plenty of space, including an expansive dining table, was particularly appreciated.

    The views from the bedroom across the valley and peaks made me fall in love with this hotel. Sinking into the bed was like being enveloped by a large fluffy marshmallow. Unsurprisingly, the TV to my left got no attention, the live-action mountain movie views in front better than any channel it could offer.

    The Food

    Stockinggut offers a half-board option, and while this isn’t something I would usually opt for, by evening, if you don’t wish to drive, it provides a better idea than walking into the nearest restaurants in Leogang.

    Luckily, it turned out to be a fantastic idea. While an à la carte menu is available for those who don’t want the inclusive option, the five-course evening meals I was served were all fantastic.

    With a choice of eating on the terrace (watching a bee dancing around a lavender plant on your table is about the best reminder of a natural setting you can get) or in the modern and futuristic-looking dining room, both locations make the most of the mountain rooms.

    Dishes ranged from roasted wild garlic cream soup to river fish and polenta like I have never tasted before. They don’t make a song and dance about sustainability here because it’s simply a given. Every dish was fantastic, and the breakfast offering was equally extensive.

    The Spa & Facilities

    The hotel is spacious and peaceful and ideal for a wellness break, and while the outside spaces and rooms are more than inviting, the quaint and compact wooden spa provides a welcome place to relax after a hike.

    Lounge chairs on the balcony and inside provide the perfect place to relax after stepping into the sauna (naked, of course, this is Austria) or washing away your muscle tension under the rain-shower programmes.

    A pool or jacuzzi would have been a welcome addition, as my room didn’t have a bath, but other than that, I have zero complaints about my stay in Stockinggut.

    The Service

    Thoughtful, friendly, relaxed and yet professional is how I would summarise the service at Stockinggut. From the efficient check-in and supply of my Saalfelden Leogang card to the rapport with the restaurant staff, who remembered my prefered drinks, the stay was seamless.

    Saalfelden Leogang Card

    At participating hotels in the region, a complimentary Saalfelden Leogang card is supplied to guests, and the Stockinggut is one of those hotels.

    This card allows for free transport on the regional transport – including buses, trains and daily gondola rides up the mountain in summer – another reason I refer to my stay as an almost all-inclusive style hotel.

    Beyond the transport, the card also offers discounts on local attractions, restaurants and shops and free entry to some museums.

    My stay in Saalfelden Leogang at the Stockinggut by AvenidA certainly made me leave recharged, especially after some days atop the magical Asitz Mountain.

  • Exploring Singapore’s Coolest Quarter: Chinatown and Keong Saik Road

    Exploring Singapore’s Coolest Quarter: Chinatown and Keong Saik Road

    With super-charged airports, skylines illuminated by light shows and forests complete with electronic trees, Singapore is pretty cool in all its corners. There is, however, one pocket of the city that stands out: Singapore’s Chinatown and Keong Saik Road.

    Each time I return to Singapore, I feel like I find another neighbourhood to explore. But I’ll never grow tired of this area of Singapore’s Chinatown, which is perfect for experiencing day and night.

    From bustling hawker markets to colourful temples, accommodation for all budgets and plenty of chic bar-restaurants, this district is a real crowd-pleaser. All along Keong Saik Road and heading into Chinatown, you’ll find a different side to Singapore – cool rather than contemporary. Here are some of my favourite experiences in one of Asia’s best cities.

    Kick back with cocktails on Keong Saik Road

    Just on the outskirts of Chinatown, Keong Saik Road rejuvenated itself from a rundown red-light district. Now, it’s a a street of fancy facades and fusion food. There are plenty of chic and happening spots here to wine, dine, and dance while enjoying a Singapore Sling or two to ease into the night.

    As the evening grows older and the cocktails start to take effect, weekends call for a visit to Potato Head. Famed for its iconic location in Bali, the Singapore outpost covers a few floors on the corner of Keong Saik. Stacked burgers meet you first before the top level comes through with lovingly crafted cocktails on the colourful roof terrace or in the cosy library-style bar.

    There are countless more options in this small spot of Singapore. Eel lovers will want to head to the slightly hidden Man Man, so popular expect a wait at the door, while Brunch is well catered for in all forms, and the more traditional Kuan Food Court sits at the bottom of the street.

    Call Chinatown home for your stay

    Over the years, I’ve stayed in all corners of Singapore, from the beaches of Sentosa to the Instagram favourite, Marina Bay Sands – but Chinatown has always been my go-to for reliable, well-priced accommodation.

    On Keong Saik Road, amongst the art deco buildings and colourful fronts, boutique hotels have set up shop, oozing uber-cool finishing touches that verge on hipster. At Q Loft Hotel 1929, you can chill out on reclaimed dentist chairs in the lobby or take an al fresco bath on your roof terrace.

    Sizzling dishes from the food markets

    Contrast contemporary cuisine with market culture

    Moments away from this more trendy pocket of cool, the buzzing night market of Singapore Chinatown awaits.

    As street food is not that common in Singapore – at least, in the typical stalls on the side of the roadway you find elsewhere in SE Asia – you’ll love the vibe here as an alternative. A hotbed of sizzling plates, lively hawker stools and vibrant colours. thi

    Whatever your palate is craving, you’ll be as spoilt as I was in this corner of the city, from favourites such as Hainanese Chicken or satay to Singapore Crab and more traditional Chinese cuisine. The stalls vary in size, from small spots with communal tables and stools to more formal sit-down affairs. The market gets super busy, both with locals and tourists, and the food quality is exceptional – as it is nearly everywhere in Singapore. So, any health market worries you might think of are likely unfounded here.

    Nearby is the Maxwell Food Centre, another fantastic spot to sample local dishes at great prices. Not quite as colourful or photography-friendly as the Food Market Street, it’s also less hectic. Although I’ve always managed to miss it, the second floor of the Chinatown Complex, which looks like a rather bland shopping centre from the outside, is also packed with food options.

    If you would prefer to join a food tour, there are plenty of options available. From those that include hawker and Michelin samplings to grander tours, including three-wheeler guides, dinner and boat sailing.

    Marvel at the religious monuments

    Chinatown’s religious monuments summarise the quarter’s diversity. The largest and most striking is the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. It’s spectacular day and night, and if you’re lucky, you’ll witness Monks practising their chants inside.

    Designed in the bright crimson style of the Dang Dynasty, you could well mistake its age. However, it’s, in fact, rather modern. Inside is one of the sacred Buddha teeth, hence the name. And although it’s intricate and the museum factual, unless you are a Monk, you won’t be able to enter the relic room yourself.

    The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

    Another smaller but super picturesque Chinese temple, Thian Hock Keng, is a short walk away. This one is older, dating back to 1840. Islam is also represented in the Chinatown quarter at Masjid Jamae. Dating back two hundred years, it’s one of the first buildings you’ll notice if you walk from the CBD.

    Two Hindu temples are in the area, as well as those in Little India, further across the city. Sri Mariamman Temple is a beauty, with an imposing entrance decorated with sculptures and a tranquil and colourful interior. On Keong Saik Road, the smaller but still worth-a-visit Sri Layan Sithi Vinayagar Temple needs a little more searching.

    To delve a little deeper into the history and culture of this quarter, visit the Chinese Cultural Centre. Many of these streets have stories from years gone by when they were used for different purposes. You’ll also learn how temples have moved, and boundaries were refined to create the Singapore Chinatown that is known today.

    As you walk along Keong Saik Road and its neighbouring streets, you’ll feel a world away from the modern high-rises Downtown. The small balconies, wooden shutters and brightly painted frontages or murals like on Amoy Street are a visual stimulation. It’s a blissful contrast to glass and steel in the CBD.

    For that, this pocket of cool around Singapore’s Chinatown shouldn’t be missed.

  • When Is The Best Time to Visit Iceland?

    When Is The Best Time to Visit Iceland?

    Touching down in the land of fire and ice will send a shiver down the spine, no matter the season. Whether it’s the first glance at a snow-covered city in the depths of winter, admiring verdant greenery against striking black beaches in summer, or being dazzled by the northern lights on approach, Iceland certainly enthrals all the senses. Still, to answer the question of when the best time to visit Iceland is, you’ll need to know what kind of experience you’re seeking in the land of fire and ice.

    Picking the right season to visit Iceland will not just shape the appearance of this jewel between the North Atlantic and Arctic Oceans but also shape the whole way you travel. There’s the obvious, such as camping, for example, being very much a summer activity, and then the things you could overlook, such as the seriously reduced daylight hours in the winter.

    During my first winter visit to Iceland, I got to experience the unique Christmas traditions – book giving and Krampus – as well as the country lighting up with bonfires and fireworks for New Year. Magical and snow-covered as the land was, it made certain places impossible to reach and, alas, too much cloud and snow for the northern lights. So, paying attention to the seasons is essential, depending on how you want to build your Iceland itinerary.

    Still, no matter when you decide to visit Iceland, it will always be one of the world’s best islands to visit. Here are a few factors to help you decide.

    Unforgettable waterfalls in Iceland

    The best time to visit Iceland for a road trip

    While, theoretically, you could hire a car in Iceland and enjoy a driving adventure any time of year, there are a few things to consider when planning the best time to visit for an Iceland road trip.

    Firstly, off-road driving in Iceland is prohibited for the most part, and many of the F-roads (the highland roads) close completely in winter (from around October to May). So if you wish to explore the interior, then the summer months will suit you best.

    It’s possible to drive the famous Golden Circle Iceland route year-round, so you can decide what kind of conditions and landscapes you want to witness on this route and then time your visit accordingly.

    The type of car or hire vehicle you should take will also depend on your itinerary, so get your plans in gear before hiring a vehicle. If you plan on doing some of the highland roads in summer when they are open, a 4WD is the best option, as smaller cars might struggle. Likewise, some roads, for the most part, aren’t really designed for larger camping vehicles — all things to consider.

    If you are planning to visit in winter but are not a confident driver in snowy and icy conditions, then you might want to consider taking a tour instead. You could also bring your own car if you take the (long) ferry from Denmark, which also calls to the Faroe Islands on the way.

    The best time to come to Iceland for camping

    It’s fair to say that Iceland is not a cheap destination. The high quality of life and solid wages ensure that prices, even by Western European standards, are pretty high. Thus, one of the easiest ways to save costs on your trip is to reduce the accommodation budget. This, of course, comes with the unquestionable bonus of getting to the heart of nature that Iceland is most famous for.

    For most people, the summer months of June, July and August are likely the only appealing time to camp in Iceland. A truly unique camping experience awaits, as the midnight sun doesn’t set for much of this period, so if you struggle to sleep without the curtains closed, a decent eye mask will be essential.

    For those who want to camp in the shoulder seasons to see the northern lights, perhaps you’ll need to be more prepared with a very high-quality sleeping bag and tent. Winter is certainly not recommended for camping for the average traveller unless you are highly experienced and prepared for this kind of expedition.

    While wild camping, in theory, can be free, there are actually a lot of rules and considerations to make – specifically around where you are – for example, national parks and southern Iceland are a no-go. At the same time, in other areas, land ownership has to be taken into consideration, especially when coupled with the no off-roading rule.

    Luckily, there are plenty of affordable and free designated campsites you can choose from, which will ensure you respect the magnificent nature of the land without falling foul of any laws. Even still, expect to pay €10+ per person per night, reflecting the generally higher costs on the island.

    Cabin goals in Iceland

    The best time to take a tour around Iceland

    Well, this is a pretty easy answer because there isn’t really one particular best time to visit Iceland for expeditions, as you can take an unforgettable private tour any time of year.

    Whether you opt for a multi-day summer expedition or short one or two-day trips from a base, there are plenty of operators on the island, thanks to the boom in tourism over recent years. Itineraries will suit all kinds of travellers, from those who simply want to visit waterfalls to hardcore adventure lovers looking to go deep into the wilderness of Iceland.

    When the weather conditions start to change, from autumn until spring, those less confident with driving in snowy and icy conditions will find that taking a tour is a preferred option; just consider this in your costs when planning your trip to Iceland. We did a few different tours when we were there in winter, some day trips and other overnights with accommodation included, and they were ideal. The lodges, for example, had already been booked by the tour companies, meaning we didn’t have to struggle to find our own accommodation at some of the most famous sights.

    Likewise, if you wish to explore the highland roads during winter when the roads are ‘impassable’ and closed, then some specialist tour operators will be able to help you make this happen.

    Photographing the dramatic beaches

    The best time to enjoy a city break in Reykjavik

    Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik, is a small, compact, and charming underrated European city with plenty of great restaurants, bars, and attractions to enjoy. Thus, it’s a great city break all year round, and it has massively grown in popularity as its own destination since more airlines started offering short stopover deals whilst transiting between the Americas and Europe.

    Some of the most popular things to do in Iceland are easily accessible from Reykjavik by tour or driving, such as the famous Blue Lagoon, Þingvellir National Park – where two continents’ tectonic plates meet (you can scuba or snorkel between them) – and countless waterfalls.

    Of course, in summer, you’ll find the weather much more agreeable, and the depths of winter might be a bit wet, grey and miserable for some. Still, I loved our Christmas and New Year visits, especially because the NYE celebrations here are truly special. All across the island islands, bonfires, flame-lit torches, and fireworks go off, all organised by the local residents, in what you can imagine would be a complete disaster of mismanagement, but in fact, show just how respectful and fun the people of this wonderful country are. Between that special celebration and all the R&R on offer for a post-Christmas retreat, Iceland is one of the best places to visit in Europe in January.

    Snorkelling between two tectonic plates

    The best time to see the northern lights in Iceland

    For many, the main reason to visit Iceland is to catch a glimpse at those magical northern lights as they dance across the sky in a seemingly unbelievable way. I’ve been both in the peak time, and the worst window to see them and actually didn’t get lucky on either, so managing your expectations will lead to fewer disappointments.

    Seeing the Aurora Borealis isn’t just about when you visit; it is also about the weather conditions. The main months for witnessing the northern lights are October through to March (remember, in the peak of summer, the sun never sets), and generally, between midnight and two in the morning are the best hours of the day. You will, however, need to keep an eye on the forecast (there are specific websites for the northern lights forecast) because you need a few things to align to witness them in all their glory: low cloud cover, a solar storm, and patience. Otherwise, they will remain a mere hidden gem in Europe.

    Many of the day trips out of the city will only confirm a few hours before if it’s worth taking the trip, so plan to book this at the start of your holiday. Then, if you aren’t successful on the first try, you have more days to try and witness this breathtaking phenomenon. But even if you don’t see them, don’t fear – Iceland truly is one of the best islands to visit, regardless of if they make an appearance.

  • Beyond Magaluf: 5 Reasons to Visit Mallorca, Spain

    Beyond Magaluf: 5 Reasons to Visit Mallorca, Spain

    Recently, I was writing a list of places my friend should visit in Spain, and as I read him my proposed agenda, he scoffed at the idea of Mallorca. ‘Isn’t that just Magaluf, all about the booze and wild nights out?’ he asked, and I remembered that was exactly what I had expected when I boarded my flight to Mallorca a few years back.

    But the truth is, I barely did Mallorca justice because I went with that expectation myself. I was looking forward to a holiday, think crystal-clear waters, days by the beach, afternoons snacking on tapas and relaxing in the lush 5-star hotel in Mallorca I’d booked into. I even left my camera at home so I could completely switch off, with just a few changes of clothes and my iPhone in my pocket.

    What I found in Mallorca, though, was so much more than I had been expecting. If you are a Brit like me, then the reputation of Magaluf is something you will be well aware of; but in reality, Magaluf is such a tiny part of this otherwise best island to visit, with a whole host of history, culture and amazing nature to enjoy.

    While my week-long holiday to Mallorca didn’t allow me a chance to experience everything the island offers, here are a few suggestions of places you really should visit when you come to Mallorca. I’ll be adding to this list after my next trip; now I know just how much this year-round sunny escape holds.

    Port de Sóller

    I’ll start with my favourite discovery of my trip to Mallorca, Port de Sóller.

    Getting to Sóller is part of the charm, and the El Tren de Sóller provides a wonderful journey from the capital of Palma.

    Winding its way along the narrow track, you can literally reach out and touch lemon trees on the route. The old, wooden train is adorable and goes through the Sierra de Alfàbia mountain range with a mix of tunnels and bridges, and some of the views are, I’d daresay, the best on the island.

    Take the old train through lemon trees

    Once you arrive at Sóller, you’ll feel like you have been transported to a different island. The mountains tower around you in the small town while the lapping waves bump the small boats together in the port. It’s a romantic place to come and stay if you want to feel like you have got away from the crowds, although, in the summer months, many people head over here on day trips.

    The town sits about three km away from the port, and both are well worth visiting, though a sunset drink at the port is really a highlight.

    In Sóller, be sure not to miss the intricately decorated Església of Sant Bartomeu or the fantastic views from the lighthouse in the Port. Thanks to the stunning scenery around Sóller, it also makes for a great starting point to hike into the mountains.

    Hiking Barranc de Biniaraix

    There are plenty of incredible hikes in Mallorca, which will take you through untouched mountains and tumbling waterfalls, but the Barranc de Biniaraix, which takes you through a rugged ravine not far from Sóller, is the one I opted for. Be warned, though, set off early in the morning as the route can get quite tough if you make the full loop in the mid-day sun.

    The trail takes about five hours if you plan on making a loop from Sóller, and it can be a full-day hike if you do the full track and loop. The trail is not exactly a tough hike, but some may prefer to hire a guide as the route at some points can be quite steep and require climbing.

    Once you leave the valley in Sóller and head into the Biniaraitx gorge itself, you’ll appreciate the incredible change of scenery. Olive and lemon trees line the terraces around the gorge, and the karst canyon has been shaped over the years by the water which has passed through it.

    There are various walking routes you can take, but the loop to the farmstead and back is a good bet if you don’t want anything too strenuous. For those who venture on, though, you’ll be rewarded by even more lakes, waterfalls and insane vistas looking out across the mountains and ocean.

    Incredible beaches

    The waters and beaches in Mallorca are that beautiful shade of light blue that tropical islands conjure up, not beach destinations in Europe, so if you enjoy heading to the beach or water sports, you are in luck.

    Playa de Palma is not far from the airport, and it was here where I enjoyed a couple of nights of luxury in a stunning hotel before I went to stay in Sóller. This long stretch of sand is ideal for those wanting to be close to Palma and not have a long transfer when they land, but there are plenty of smaller and even more stunning beaches across the island that you should find time to visit.

    In the south of the island, Caló des Moro is undoubtedly a show-stealer, and I was so glad to be visiting in the off-season, as this tiny cove with its turquoise waters would surely get crazy busy in summer. It’s a small beach, but close by are plenty of other stretches of sand you can relax on if you arrive to find that other sunseekers have already overtaken Caló des Moro, by far one of the island’s most popular beach destinations.

    Not too far from Sóller is Cala Banyalbufar beach, and although this isn’t your typical beach, with a huge sandy stretch, it’s stunningly beautiful, especially as vineyard terraces wind up from it. It’s certainly one I would suggest visiting, even if just for a dip and some photos, and in case you can’t tell, I loved everything along the west of Mallorca near Sóller.

    Palma

    The capital city of Mallorca, Palma, is dominated by the Santa Maria Cathedral, a grand Gothic building which rivals the centrepieces of most Spanish cities. Inside, you’ll find a mix of intricate architecture showcasing how the church has been added to since its 13th-century construction and its prime position in Palma along the water makes it a true marvel.

    Just next door to the church is the Royal Palace of La Almudaina, which showcases the Moorish history of the island. This vast Arabic fortress was used as the royal residence on the island, and you’ll need a good few hours to take in the history inside, where the stone rooms with their arched ceilings are seriously impressive. The 15th-century Lonja de Mallorca is another building well worth exploring.

    Palma itself has a cool vibe about it, and of course, being in Spain, there are plenty of restaurants and bars to enjoy the fresh local seafood or enjoy a glass of local wine accompanied by Tapas. Cala Major, a seaside resort slightly further down the coast, is another great place to spend a few hours or enjoy dinner alfresco.

    I’d go as far as saying that Palma de Mallorca is a great Spanish city break.

    Tapas and drinks are a must in Mallorca

    Cap de Formentor

    The drive to the tip of Mallorca, Cap de Formentor, provides some incredible views as you change from stretches of sand to rugged inland mountains, though the road does get a bit sketchy towards the end of the drive.

    The lighthouse at the peak provides some great photo opportunities, and it’s super breathtaking. The cliffs falling into the ocean with the crashing waves made this the second most beautiful part of the island that I visited.

    Nearby, the coastal drive to Port d’Alcúdia is another beauty and a little bit more laid back and relaxed than the south side of the island. From Port d’Alcúdia you can also take a ferry onwards to Barcelona if you don’t wish to fly from the island.

    Port d’Alcúdia is home to the Alcudia beach, which is a long stretch of cove with shallow waters ideal for relaxing in, but just inland is the Ciudad Romana de Pollentia, a Roman excavation site that is worth a visit if you are into learning the history of the island. Excavation works are ongoing, but the vast enclave houses a theatre amongst the old residential area, and it’s insane to see the Roman building work, dating back to BC, on a Spanish island.

    As I said, I really didn’t do Mallorca justice, neither with my itinerary nor my photos, but it was an excellent introduction to an island I had stupidly written off as a night-club-only destination. I can’t wait to go back to explore all the other villages and incredible buildings I missed on this first visit.

    Sunsets in Mallorca

    A few more places I wish I had visited are:

    Drach Caves: I heard these caves are awe-inspiring and consist of four historic caves that run for about 3.5 kilometres. There are also the Coves dels Hams, which is where the light and sound show is, so don’t get the two confused

    Cala Figuera A cute little traditional town away from the resort areas, I saw it on lots of postcards and think it would be a great place to go for the photo opportunities.

    Valldemossa Charterhouse A grand palace and monastery, a little inland from the coast and nestled in the mountains, it looks like a worthy side-trip for both the history and photos. As you can see, you could easily dedicate a whole Spain itinerary to Mallorca.

  • Indonesia Travel Guide

    Indonesia Travel Guide

    Hands down, this is my favourite country. Trying to list all the reasons to visit Indonesia is a near-impossible and never-ending task.

    With over 17,000 islands spanning from Southeast Asia across to Oceania, you are spoilt for choice. The ever-popular Bali became a second home for me when I first set out to travel the continent, and I discovered there is a good and a bad side to it. You can find a remote paradise in Raja Ampat, explore some of the world’s most famous temples in Yogyakarta and be amazed at a million other things.

    I hope this Indonesia travel guide will help you plan an incredible adventure to these islands, which are arguably some of the best in Asia.

    What to See in Indonesia

    Erm, everything? Seriously, this country blows me away, and after spending six months exploring it, I still feel like I have barely scratched the surface.

    My personal favourites were Raja Ampat and Komodo for sheer natural beauty, scuba diving and wildlife (think mantas, dragons and dolphins). That said, I even managed to find a soft spot for Jakarta – undoubtedly one of the most slated cities in the travel blogging world.

    The top attractions in Indonesia

    Cultural Hub of Ubud, Bali
    Ubud is full of vegan cafes, yoga retreats and lush green rice paddies. There are a million and one things to do in Bali, but if you want to slow down, a few days in cultural Ubud is a winner. Visit the famous water temples, enjoy traditional dance and explore the famous Monkey forest before taking in the lush green landscape.

    Mount Bromo, Java
    An incredible spot in Java to catch the sunrise, Mount Bromo, with its aggressive smoke and surrounded by mist, is now one of the most popular volcanoes to visit in Indonesia.

    Ijen Blue Fire Lake, Java
    The Ijen sulphur mines are not only a dangerous workplace for underpaid staff but are now a popular tourist attraction thanks to the ‘blue fire’ that is emitted from the lake at night.

    Hidden beaches in Bali
    While many people will stick to the long sands of Seminyak and Kuta, Bali has some incredible and empty beaches just waiting to be discovered. Find my favourite on the link above.

    My Favourite Hidden Bali Beach

    Scuba Diving in Batu Batong

    Labuan Bajo, with its manta rays, dolphins, and incredible underwater world, is the ideal place to scuba dive or snorkel. The HMS Victory wreck in Bali is another popular dive site.

    Tanah Lot Temple, Bali
    This famous temple along the south coast of Bali draws in crowds, especially for sunset. On a rock slightly out to the ocean, this is a typical tick on any Bali bucket list.

    The Nusa Islands
    These three islands close to Bali (Lembongan, Ceningan and Penida) have grown super popular in recent years as an alternative to Bali, thanks to how quick they are to get to. The islands are full of beautiful coves and relaxed spots, but there are plenty of things to do on Nusa Penida, the largest of the islands, to keep you entertained.

    The Gili Islands, Lombok
    These three spots of sand surrounded by crystal clear waters and huge turtles are a short boat ride away from Bali and an easy beach escape to a slower pace of life.

    Indonesia UNESCO list

    Borobudur and Prambanan, Yogyakarta
    In Yogyakarta, known locally as Jogja, you can find two of the most famous temples in the world. The Hindu complex of Prambanan and the towering structure of Borobudur can easily be seen on a one- or two-day visit.

    Komodo National Park
    Home to the Komodo Dragon, a boat trip across the still waters of the bay will take you to this wilderness island, which is protected. The huge lizards are impressive, and a local guide will keep you safe (with a stick?)

    Gili Laba, Komodo

    Rainforests of Sumatra
    Sumatra is a wildlife and safari dream. With leopards, tigers, elephants and white rhinos, it is a world away from the beaches of Bali. Due to continued deforestation, this natural habitat is sadly in danger.

    Sangiran Early Man Site, Flores
    The discovery site of a now-extinct human species. Measuring in at only 3.5 meters tall, you can visit the place where the homo floresiensis was discovered, although the remains now live elsewhere.

    Indonesia also has the cultural landscape of Bali province, Lorentz National Park and Ujung Kulon Park inscribed on the UNESCO list.

    Unique places to visit in Indonesia

    Jellyfish Lake, Borneo
    This inland lake is one of a few in the world where you can swim through the still water, which is full of colourful jellyfish. With a sting so weak that it does not affect humans, this is one of Indonesia’s most unique activities.

    Raja Ampat, West Papua
    Literally translated as four kings, Raja Ampat is billed as ‘the world’s last paradise’, and it does not disappoint. Think cabin living, perfect sands, no phone signal and even tribal islands. It will cost you time and money to get here, but I promise it is worth every cent.

    Kri Island, Raja Ampat

    See Wild Orangutans in Borneo
    Borneo’s forests are stunning, and the chance to see Orangutans in the wild or support the conservation efforts is something not to miss if you venture to Kalimantan. With a whole host of options for staying right in the heart of the action, such as Uncle Tan’s wildlife camp, you are guaranteed to be at one with nature.

    Toraja Land, Sulawesi
    Sulawesi, one of the biggest islands in Indonesia, is full of unique and diverse cultures. One of the more popular places to visit is Toraja Land for its lavish funeral ceremonies, which can go on for days.

    The 1000 Islands and Jakarta
    A short boat ride from the manic capital of Jakarta, the 1000 islands are Indonesia’s answer to the Maldives. Think over water bungalows, undersea tunnel aquariums and the kind of beaches that beg for a coconut and a good book.

    Where to stay in Indonesia

    I nearly always recommend booking accommodation on Hotels.com due to their great loyalty scheme, but sometimes in Indonesia, and indeed much of Asia, Agoda actually has a bigger selection of properties, so it is also well worth checking out when booking your Indonesia accommodation.

    With over 17,000 islands, suggesting where to stay in Indonesia is no easy task, but I have hand-picked a couple of my favourite places I have stayed at, as well as some incredibly unique accommodations you might want to add to your Indonesia itinerary.

    Maya Villas
    Seminyak, Bali

    These stunning villas right in the heart of Seminyak were my favourite treat. With private pools, breakfast cooked in the villa and a tranquil vibe even though you are in the middle of nothing. If you are in Bali for a special occasion, this is a winner.

    Seraya Resort
    Komodo, Flores

    The area around western Flores, near Komodo National Park, is stunning. Perfect waters and so much nature. The Seraya resort is a secluded paradise and a perfect base for relaxing and exploring from.

    TeraAilan Resort
    Raja Ampat

    I haven’t stayed here, but I am only including it as one of the few places in Raja Ampat you can book online. It took me four days and a few WhatsApp messages to book my accommodation, so if you want to save the hassle, this could be a plan.

    Karma Reef
    Gili Islands

    Gili T is happening, Gili Air is quaint, but if you really want to escape it all, then Gili Meno is where to hear. The luxurious yet mellow Karma resort is the perfect escape from Bali for a few days.

    Elephant Eco Lodge
    Sumatra

    At the tip of Sumatra, just across from Java, sits Taman National Park with Elephants, Rhinos and Tigers. If you want to stay as close to the action as possible, then check this place out.

    Pulau Ayer
    1000 Islands, Java

    Nope, that is not the Maldives. No one seems to realise an hour from Jakarta sits the 1000 islands. With overwater huts, perfect waters and great diving, this is an ideal chill before taking your international flight home.

    Getting to Indonesia

    Indonesia is well-served by numerous international airports. Jakarta and Bali are great and the most popular airports, but you can also fly into Bandung, Surabaya, Balikpapan, Aceh, and Makassar, as well as a few other international options.

    Given the sheer size of the country, trying to find the best airport to arrive at if you are already in Asia is a great idea. Use a search engine such as Skyscanner, which allows you to search by country rather than the airport, to check what regional options you have.

    Getting around Indonesia

    Indonesia does not have the best rap sheet when it comes to safety, and this applies to both boats and flying. Always try to take a safe, regulated boat with life jackets, not the cheapest, and before booking a local airline, check the online safety rating to at least be informed. With some 17,000 islands across the archipelago, you might find it easiest to book an Indonesia cruise to explore – or opt to take shorter boat crossings to visit just some of the isles. Still, it’s not that complicated getting around Indonesia, as there are a variety of services and options for all budgets.

    Travelling between the islands is possible by various means. The country has a whole host of airlines, and I have personally flown on Garuda (Good and serves god awful meat stuffed doughnuts), Air Asia (Cheap and Cheerful), Lion Air (The airline that managed to miss the landing strip in Bali and landed in the water, oh and they also hit a cow once), Trans Nusa and Batik Air (The last two, I’m not sure I would fly again)

    As well as small motor boats and regular ferry connections between the islands. The cheapest (and most awful or entertaining – depending on your view) way to travel is on the Pelni freighter boats, which leave god knows when.

    When in the bigger cities such as Jakarta, much of Bali and Surabaya, Uber is a pretty good bet to get around; GoJek is an Uber for Bike riding, and Bemos are small little-converted buses that you wave down on the side of the road and cram in and even the long-distance trains are a good bet. The more remote you get, the harder it becomes, and at this point, sometimes getting a private driver (and awesome new buddy) is a pretty sweet idea!

    Carry an international license when driving and have insurance – also be prepared for the odd unexpected and random ‘fine’.

    Indonesia visas and safety

    Indonesia is viewed as a relatively safe country, with scams, pickpocketing, and an upset stomach being the most likely culprits of any travel mishaps.

    That said, there have been various occurrences of crime, attacks and drinking spiking, so keeping your wits about you, as you would in any country, is essential.

    In Bali, be wary of driving by yourself at night on a bike with a bag in view. Too many of my friends have been pulled off their bikes by their bags. In the dark, your valuables are an easy win to steal with little after-thought for the damage to you when you come off your bike.

    Beware of alcohol that is not legit. Dirt-cheap drinks have been known to be mixed with methanol to dilute them, and there have been deaths from tourists drinking these. The Gili Islands and Bali are two places to be aware of this.

    In the Gili Islands and Lombok be aware of minimal if any police presence, although mainly safe there have been more reports of thefts and attacks, particularly in Lombok, from the international community of late.

    Indonesia is a Muslim country, and although Bali is Hindu, be aware of the different laws by region. Parts of Sumatra and other islands have now converted to Sharia law, whilst other islands may have a different majority religion. Be sure to be aware of laws, traditions and dress codes before visiting different parts of the country.

    Travel Insurance

    No matter where you are travelling, travel insurance is essential. Trust me, I have been mugged and lost all my gear and nearly my health – no matter how much you think something won’t go wrong, it is not worth the risk.

    I personally use Insure and Go as I find their premiums fantastic. However, it is a mainly UK company. Another popular option that plenty of my frequent traveller friends use and recommend is World Nomads. Whoever you decide to book with, do it!

    Visas and Travel Warnings

    To find out the Visa Requirements and current travel advisories for Indonesia relevant to your home country, follow the links here to the official government websites.

    Health in Indonesia

    A dodgy stomach, or ‘Bali Belly’, is likely the worst you will suffer in Indonesia, but be sure to take out travel insurance in case you do fall ill. In the more developed parts of the country, hospital access is easy and advanced, and in places such as Bali, you can find Australian-operated hospitals and dentists if you would prefer. Pharmacies are well stocked, and you can usually get most things with just a quick chat (or point!)

    Exchanging Indonesia Rupiah

    Always shop around when exchanging currency, especially when you are already abroad. If using an ATM, be sure it has not been altered, and aim to arrange an emergency credit card as a backup before you set off on a trip.

    If you are looking to exchange money before your travel, then Travelex is a pretty huge international brand with either cash offices or various pre-paid card options. I keep their Cash Passport with me alongside my current account for its ease of re-loading and an emergency backup.

    Tours of Indonesia

    While arranging tours once you arrive in Indonesia can sometimes prove a challenge, it is by no means impossible, and there are plenty of local operators for you to track down. A bit of hunting around and a lot of haggling later, and you can usually score yourself an adventure like no other. Sometimes a private driver might be required as appose to a group tour but exploring this archipelago is beyond rewarding.

    Given the remote nature and the hassle of getting to some of its most beautiful parts, I appreciate not everyone has the time or patience that I do to hop on chicken buses or take the long way around. As such, here are a few tours you might want to book in advance so you don’t miss out on the best things in Indonesia.

    2 Day temple tour from Bali | From $260

    Explore two historic temples in Yogyakarta, Borobudur and Prambanan. If you want an easy trip from Bali, with transport arrangements made for you, this is the simplest way to explore some of Java’s most famous sights.

    8 Day Raja Ampat explorer | From $1640

    They call it the world’s last paradise, and from first-hand experience, I can tell you that is true. This remote land can be a nightmare to travel, but this boat and eco resort tour will take out all the hassle.

    Bali Mount Batur sunrise trek | From $57

    In central Bali, this volcano is a popular way to kick-start the day. It’s also relatively easy to tackle, and even an unhealthy guy like me nailed it. With pickup and a local guide included, this tour will have you covered.

    3 Day Komodo tour from Labuan Bajo | From $340

    Home to the famous Komodo dragons and incredible waters, a short flight from Bali will deliver you to Labuan Bajo. With deserted island camping and pink beaches, this takes the hassle out of piecing it together yourself.

    Indonesia’s weather & climate

    Indonesia is vast and, as such, has various climates and weather cycles across its 17,000 islands. I have been sitting dry on one island before watching a tropical lightning storm happen on the next.

    It remains a hot temperature much of the year-round but also experiences a monsoon season. The best time to visit comes down to what you are looking for, as well as the particular region you plan to explore.

    When to visit Indonesia

    Peak Season: When school holidays are on, and everyone takes their summer breaks, June through to September can be really crowded, and most accommodation prices are more than double the offseason.

    Shoulder Season: Between April and June and September and October, the crowds usually drop off, and the prices , too. It’s likely the perfect time to visit.

    Off Season: From November to March/April is when it rains the most for much of Indonesia, with Sumatra having a different pattern. Prices drop, and I usually like to visit towards the end of the rainy season.

  • Why Durham’s Beamish Living Museum Is the Best in the Country

    Why Durham’s Beamish Living Museum Is the Best in the Country

    Okay, hand up, it can often take quite a lot for me to get excited about a museum, let alone spend a whole day at one and still want to go back again, but Beamish, The Living Museum of The North was perhaps the first time that has happened – and it’s certainly the first time I’ve felt compelled to write a whole post dedicated to a museum!

    Located in the Durham region of England, not far from the historic city of Durham or indeed Newcastle, the Beamish Living Museum is home to countless interactive experiences that are well worth travelling for.

    If you’re not familiar with the concept of a living museum, it basically works like an ordinary museum but with interactive elements and actors playing the characters that would be typical of the museum experiences; think museum meets interactive theme park. There are plenty of reasons to visit Beamish Living Museum, so much so that even with a full day there, I didn’t get to experience everything, and as an adult, I was utterly entertained – I don’t think you can write this one off as just for the kids.

    If you want to get a taste of just how vast Beamish is, take a look at their interactive map. To see the full 300-acre site in all its glory, luckily, a day ticket is good for return visits within a year, as there is so much to see!

    If you want to get a taste of just how vast Beamish is, take a look at their interactive map. To see the full 300-acre site in all its glory, luckily, a day ticket is good for return visits within a year, as there is so much to see!

    Getting around on old-school public transport

    One of the coolest things about Beamish is the sheer scale of the museum. With so many buildings across the different towns and villages, you can walk between each one, and journey times can be up to 15 minutes, such is the size.

    For those who don’t fancy walking though, one of the main draws to Beamish is the variety of traditional transport options you can experience here.

    While some of the main trams, trains and buses in Beamish are originals, others are replicas of those that would have been on the streets in the 1900s. With conductors, train staff and station crew all in traditional outfits too, it’s a charming way to get around and get an introduction to the different time periods that Beamish displays.

    My favourite was the trams, with the 1900 Sunderland 16 tram being the coolest IMO, which has been loving restored. Some of the trams are over 100 hundred years old, and there are six different types to try and catch.

    There is also a range of traditional buses; although quite a few of these are replicas, there are a couple of originals.

    The train station is a full-size and fully working option, while the traditional Steam train, complete with coal-smeared drivers, runs up and down a little track regularly.

    In addition to all the regular running public transport, you’ll occasionally see other traditional methods of transportation moving around, such as old-fashioned bicycles, motorbikes and horse-drawn vehicles.

    Living day-to-day life in the shops of the 1900s town

    The best part of Beamish for me was the 1900s town, as I found it the most interactive and fun to experience.

    It has been built so well, with no attention to detail spared, so much so that the recent Downtown Abbey Movie filmed quite the chunk here, with the garage likely being the most recognisable spot.

    There are so many things to experience here, from the Bakey cooking up loaves of bread in the real oven that you can purchase from the clerk at Barclays bank opening accounts. You can nip into traditional shops like chemists, visit different houses where people are going about their chores, and even go to the Dentist, where a bearded man will walk you through all the worrying-looking apparatus from days gone by.

    Not one to shy away from the chance to dress up, I headed to the Photography Studio, where countless outfits ranging from the tame gentleman through to full-blown gowns were available alongside multiple props to set the scene. Once you are all glamorous and ready for your photo, the studio snaps some pictures from behind a traditional camera, although luckily, their processing technology is a bit more modern, and you can walk away with the photos from the session.

    If you want to chill out, you can dip into the traditional pub, The Sun Inn, for a pint of bitter, or stock up on old-school sweets from the shop next door, if you are lucky, the chocolatier at the back will have a fresh batch for you to try!

    Discover Durham’s mining heritage in the 1900s village

    Mining and coal played a considerable part in the North East of England, and in the 1900s village, this is honoured and presented in many ways.

    Firstly, for kids, this is likely the highlight, as there is not only a chapel and selection of terraces houses with owners inside to entertain but also Beamish School where you can sit behind tiny little desks in class with a teacher writing up lessons from the times on the blackboards.

    In the Collier you can head on a mine tour, and go down underground to see what mining conditions would have been like, complete with lanterns.

    As well as a cake and tea hall, there is the fantastic Davys Fish and Chip shop here, but warning, it’s so popular you should get here early to beat the crowds. Serving up beer-battered fish with lashings of vinegar, the shop is the ideal reconstruction, with a real 1900s oven and the right type of oil. Apparently, they taste exactly like they would have and come in newspaper clippings from the time.

    A house at Beamish where ‘actors’ tend to the garden

    Plenty more experiences to enjoy across different decades

    With so much going on at Beamish, honestly, you will be hard-pressed to finish it all in one day, but try your best by getting in at the opening time. If not, the day ticket allows for a return entrance within the year.

    In addition to the town and village where I spent most of my time, there is also a 1940s farm which shares an insight into life during the second world war, so important because of the amount of food imported during the war and the fear of not having enough homegrown produce.

    In the 1820’s village, you’ll find the steam train I mentioned above, but also old town-halls and houses which you can venture into and be greeted by actors.

    With a traditional fairground, a 1950’s town about to open, and likely even more that I didn’t even get to have a peek at, I’m sure you see just how much there is to experience at Beamish Living Museum!

    Other awesome museum experiences in the Durham Region

    Bishop Auckland Castle – This newly renovated and reopened castle has been opened as a ‘lived in’ museum – think banquets half-eaten on dining room tables and wardrobes you can rustle around in. A grand building with another interactive element.

    The Bowes Museum – Built as a gift for his wife, The Bowes Museum also embraces the experience side, and during my visit, they had lots of Lego models of what was on display, and you could get involved. There were also modern collections you could take part in at home, and it’s set on some beautiful grounds.

    Locomotion Museum – Discover the history of British Rail, walk around the old cabins, and see trains from years gone by in the Locomotion Museum.

    To read more about these excellent museums, and to visit the Durham region of England in more depth, check out my full video guide to Durham. I also have an article about how to spend a long weekend in Durham exploring UNESCO castles and cathedrals, fantastic museums, and epic dales with historic castles.

    But whatever you do, be sure to make a beeline for Beamish when you visit!

    The Bowes Museum is another of Durham’s many attractions

    Need to know: Durham

    A few tips and tricks to make planning your visit to Durham even easier.

    How to get to Durham? The nearest airport to Durham is Newcastle Airport, which has plenty of international flights. From here, you can easily take the metro to Newcastle City and then a train to Durham. The total journey should be less than one hour, door to door.

    If you are already in the UK, there are regular train connections to Durham on both high-speed and standard routes. The fastest journey time from London is about 2:45, and from Edinburgh, it is around two hours. As always in the UK, booking your train tickets as far in advance will save you money; I personally use www.thetrainline.com.

    Getting to Beamish? If you don’t have a car, getting to Beamish Museum from Durham is fairly straightforward. You can take the bus from Durham Centre, Bus 21, to Chester-le-Street and then here change to Stand G, to take bus 28A to Beamish. Total journey time is under an hour, and you can follow the same route on the return.

    Accessibility in Beamish? The Beamish Museum website has a dedicated accessibility page, and they also have modified transport to move around the villages.

  • 7-Day Lombardy Itinerary in Northern Italy (Road Trip or Train)

    7-Day Lombardy Itinerary in Northern Italy (Road Trip or Train)

    Of the countless times I’ve been lucky enough to visit Italy, this epic road trip with friends was one of the most unforgettable. What made it so great was that our 7-day trip in Lombardy was actually the second part of our adventure, having spent our first week in Puglia. If you have the time, this split is a great way to explore the country, as you’ll be able to experience both Northern Italy, but also the vastly different south of the country too.

    During this one-week itinerary in Northern Italy – which I’ve updated a little bit based on my various visits to the region – you’ll visit Milan’s highlights, dazzling lakes, cultured cities and plenty more of the best places to visit in Lombardy.

    For some, this one-week itinerary might be a bit too fast-paced. If so, you’ll ideally stretch it out into a ten-day trip (with more time on the lakes and in Milan) or cut out a stop or two to have more time in the regional capital. For those who want to maximise their vacation days and see as much as possible, you’ll find this journey fast enough to feast on many magical moments but slow enough to live the La Dolce Vita.

    Bergamo

    Don’t have a car? I’ve tried to give the best public transport or tour options I can so you can try and do a similar itinerary as possible without driving.

    In general, when travelling by train in Italy and Europe, the best value fares are those booked in advance. With a variety of high-speed and slower trains serving Italy, you can usually find the right journey at the right price. I’d suggest searching for routes and tickets before travelling to secure discounts or searching for bus connections on Omio.

    Here is an overview of my suggested two-week itinerary in Lombardy; you can find full details, including route, accommodation, and tips on what to see below.

    Day One: Milan
    Day Two: Milan
    Day Three: Lake Garda and Lugana
    Day Four: Mantua
    Day Five: Cremona
    Day Six: Lake Como
    Day Seven: Bergamo (or back to Milan) / Travel day

    Day One: Travel Day / Fly to Lombardy / Milan

    Sleep in Milan

    Day one is somewhat of a travel day and will depend on which flight you take to Italy and, likewise, which of the three airports you arrive in, Bergamo, Malpensa or Linate.

    If you fly into Bergamo, you might want to see day seven of the road trip and consider visiting Bergamo before heading into Milan itself. I’ve put all the suggestions for Milan on the second day of this itinerary, so you can spread them out to suit your flight time best.

    Where to stay in Milan

    There are countless places to stay in Milan to suit all budgets and tastes, so I won’t make any personal recommendations as you have plenty to choose from, and I’ve stayed in so many places here, from great, to awful. I have made Milan a two-night stay on this itinerary though, so you can start off slow-paced.

    The historic canals of Milan in Navigli

    Day Two: Milan

    Total drive time: None | Sleep in Milan

    It’s no surprise Milan, being the capital of the region and fashion capital of Italy, is the top thing to do in Lombardy. With so much to discover here, you’ll likely want to get an early start.

    What to do in Milan

    I’ve written about the many things to do in Milan before, as there is a lot of option here. Milan is a city that it took me a few visits to really uncover, as there are a lot of great spots around, so take a pick of your favourites:

    The Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II are the best-known attractions, but go early morning if you can for photos. There are countless other churches worthy of your time in Milan, such as San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore, which is one of my favourites.

    In contrast, the newer district of Milan, Porta Nova, especially around the Vertical Forest apartment buildings, offers a totally different side of the city, with lots of shopping next to the green park.

    The Brera district is one of my favourite parts for restaurants and people-watching; the University Library here is also a bit of a hidden gem. Then, head to the Castle of Milan, which a lot of people somehow miss, and from here, you can walk through the park to the Triennale and the Design Museum.

    The iconic Milan Duomo

    End your day in Navigli, the canal district, to enjoy aperitivo hour, where food and snacks are included with the cocktail of your choice, and in many of the places here – it’s a large buffet affair.

    There are a few things in Milan you’ll likely want to book ahead, such as the tickets for the rooftop of Milan Duomo – or perhaps even skip-the-line fast-track tickets in peak months. You’ll find plenty of other tour tickets for sale on sights like GetYourGuide, but for other bits, such as the theatre tour, or even the Duomo if you don’t mind the queue, it’s usually a bit cheaper to buy there and then.

    Prefer a tour?

    There are lots of tours available in Milan to suit any taste, but a fun one that we did was the rickshaw tour of Milan, which gave us a bit of free choice with the driver, but also a chance to learn some facts and history at a quicker pace as we weren’t staying for a full-blown city visit.

    Hiking along the incredible hues of Manerba del Garda

    Day Three: Lake Garda and Lugana

    Total drive time: 3 hours | Sleep in Lake Garda

    After a whirlwind tour of Milan, it’s time to escape the busy city life and head to the peaceful shores of Lake Garda. One of the largest lakes in Italy, it actually spans three different regions, but for this Italy itinerary, I’m focusing just on the Lombardy part, which has plenty to offer.

    What to do in Lake Garda

    Manerba del Garda provides some amazing hiking and beach options, with the clear water lapping up against either practically hidden stone beaches or more sandy shores where watersports are available. For some of the best views, hike up to Rocca di Manerba. We used a local guide, Andrea at Millemonti, who helped us find some of the hidden beaches.

    There are lots of beautiful towns and villages around the lake, but Desenzano del Garda is not only the easiest to get to but also adorable. Whether you stop here for lunch, decide to make it your base, or spend time exploring the castle and lazing on the nearby beaches, be sure to pass by.

    Sirmione is likely the most famous spot on Lake Garda, thanks to the Scaligero Castle, a fortress on the peninsula with some wall remains in the water. There are also lots of lovely but quite expensive restaurants and resorts here, and at the far end of the land are the ruins of an old Roman villa.

    Lugana in the distance behind the Sirmione peninsula

    One other idea is to visit Lugana, a wine-producing region by the lake that stretches across both Lombardy and Veneto regions.

    We went to Cascina Maddalena to learn more about the vineyard but also to have a local cooking class which was very garden-to-table, and then we all got to eat together family-style, literally with the family, and it was a lovely local experience for what can feel like a very touristed area.

    Prefer public transport?

    If you are coming to Lake Garda by public transport, it might change where you visit. Trains from Milan to Desenzano Del Garda-Sirmione station take around 1.5 hours, and from here, you have ferries and buses onwards to Sirmione, for example. That said, I found it easy in the summer, but in the off-season, the boats weren’t running, and the buses were less regular, so keep that in mind.

    Brescia is the principal city here, so a train from Milan to Brescia will also provide other options, such as a bus from Brescia to Manerba del Garda.

    The castle is a star attraction on Lake Garda

    Where to stay on Lake Garda

    I’ve made this another two-night stay, as I personally think Laka Garda is dreamy, and it’s somewhere you should relax. Sirmione is, of course, the star of the show, but accommodation is expensive here and books out fast. During this trip, we stayed in basic but welcoming apartments just outside Sirmione called Daisy Guesthouse.

    On my previous visit, I stayed in Desenzano Del Garda at Hotel Benaco, which I loved, as there are excellent restaurants and gelato places nearby, and the hotel was nice and fairly priced.

    The stunning inside of Teatro Bibiena, Mantua

    Day Four: Mantua

    Total drive time: 1.15 hours | Sleep in Mantua

    Wow! What a city, and to be honest, I’m surprised this incredible place is somewhat off the beaten path in Italy as it’s a real treat.

    What to do in Mantua

    Home to the largest residential building in Europe, after the Vatican, Mantua is packed with art and architectural gems.

    The city is surrounded by three artificial lakes, one coated in lilypads, and I enjoyed a sunset boat cruise through the lake looking back on the city, which was very serene.

    We have to thank the Gonzaga rulers for most of the grand architecture in Mantua, whose Ducal Palace presents some 600 odd rooms. While only some are open to the public, they are an architectural feast with grand frescos and beautiful art; truly, this is the highlight of Mantua.

    Impressive and worth a visit is the Palazzo Te (which has nothing to do with the drink), which also boasts some grand halls, and perhaps my favourite spot, the Teatro Bibiena, a true Italy hidden gem if ever there was one!

    Lastly, be sure to try the local pasta speciality, Tortelli di Zucca, a pumpkin tortellini we sampled at Ristorante Tiratappi, which has a lovely outside deck (spray for mosquitos advised in warmer months) and was where Charles Dickens stayed in Mantua.

    Prefer a tour?

    If you are looking for an expert on Mantua to help you discover the best of the city, then Lorenzo Bonoldi is the man you need and runs Visit Mantua tours.

    Prefer public transport?

    If you get back to Brescia, you can hop a bus to Mantua, but the easiest option might be a train from Desanzo del Garda via Verona. If you’re planning to travel by train, I’d suggest learning at least the more famous Italian place names and their pronunciation – for example, Mantua is actually Mantova in Italian – to ensure no confusion when buying tickets or listening out for your stop.

    Where to stay in Mantua

    I loved where we stayed in Mantua, the hosts were so welcoming, and with just a few rooms in the accommodation but also lounge and dining space, it was super spacious. The rooms were also a good size, and you could see the history of the place through the frescos and wooden beams, so be sure to take a look at Le Casa del Pittore.

    Cremona Cathedral

    Day Five: Cremona – Como

    Total drive time: 3 hours | Sleep in Lake Como

    Cremona is a city known for its Violin heritage, being the birthplace of one of the most famed string instrument makers, Antonio Stradivari. While there is a museum here dedicated to Violins, I actually found visiting a small Violin Workshop a more exciting way to discover the musical culture of this underrated European city.

    What to do in Cremona

    Firstly, let’s cover one of the typical local dishes, Mostarda di Frutta, an interesting condiment of candied fruits in a spiced mustard dressing, actually much nicer than it sounds. The city is also renowned for its nougat.

    Beyond the violins, there is some lovely architecture to enjoy, such as the cathedral and baptistery, and some fantastic views atop the clock tower, which stretch out into the neighbouring region of Emilia Romagna – this also could be a day trip from Bologna.

    Prefer public transport?

    A direct train from Mantua to Cremona is under an hour. From Cremona to Como, you’ll need to take a train back through Milan and change there.

    The ceiling of Cremona Cathedral

    Where to stay in Lake Como

    I can personally vouch for the Hotel Metropole Suisse, which is quite upmarket option on the waterfront of Como town. For something more affordable, on my most recent summer visit, I stayed at Megaride Guest House. I’ve always stayed in Como proper, so I don’t have any personal recs of hotels around the lake.

    Where to stay in Cremona

    If you decide to stay the night in Cremona and are driving, the Agriturismo Cascina Farisengo, which is around 4kilometres out of Cremona, might be the perfect option as a restored country house centred around a grand courtyard.

    The beautiful town of Varenna reflected

    Day Six: Lake Como

    Total drive time: None or 2-3 Hours | Sleep in Lake Como

    After exploring the culture and cityscapes of Lombardy, it’s time to head back to the lakes.

    What to do in Lake Como

    Lake Como has plenty to offer, from relaxing water-side villages of colourful houses to mountain bike trails and hiking.

    This is a pretty large lake, so there are plenty of different spots to visit. You should read my guide to a weekend in Lake Como for some more inspiration.

    But, for some starting points, the main sized towns are Como and Lecco, both of which have a hub of shops and restaurants and excellent transport links out to other destinations. Then you have some other beautiful destinations such as the well-heeled Bellagio, Varenna (one of my favourites) and tiny hideaways such as Nesso.

    To get between the different spots on the lake, there are plenty of ferry-style boats. In summer, services are more regular, though not all villages and towns link to each other as there are different routes. These ferries are great if you just want to go between, say, Como and Varenna. But, if you want to visit a few different places along the lake in quick succession, consider one of the many Lake Como boat tours available, and see if there’s a departure which visits the villages you’re keen to explore.

    If you are happy to stick with four wheels and continue your road trip through Lombardy, you’ll also be able to access other places around the lake that aren’t as regularly visited by the ferries.

    Morning boat rides on Lake Como

    Prefer public transport?

    There is a network of boats going around Lake Como, obviously more in high season. There are also some buses and trains to the likes of Lecco and Varenna, so plan your route to best suit the options available I’d suggest.

    Bergamo’s Citta Alta

    Day Seven: Bergamo / Travel Day

    Total drive time: Approx 2 hours (Depending on which airport)

    And here we are, at the end of an epic Northern Italy itinerary in Lombardy, but there is time to fit in one last stop.

    If you are flying from Bergamo, then this is a no-brainer. If you are flying onwards from Malpensa or Linate, you likely won’t want to detour to the city, but perhaps you will instead prefer to spend your last hours at Lake Maggiore, which is close to Malpensa instead.

    What to do in Bergamo

    The main draw of Bergamo is the Città Alta, the fortified part of the city which sits above the not quite as interesting modern part.

    There are numerous viewpoints here; some reach by funicular, others at the top of buildings, with the architecture around the main square of particular note thanks to the cathedral and porticos surrounding it.

    Prefer public transport?

    If you are heading straight back to Milan for a flight, then from Como, you can get trains into central Milan. Have a Google at the best transport options as it will depend on which airport you are flying from. To get from Como to Bergamo, it’s often suggested to take the train back to Milan, but there is a bus a few times a day that would cut out going back into Milan.

    Where to stay in Bergamo

    If you decide to stay the night in Bergamo, then there is a surprisingly high-quality hostel here with dorms and privates that I’ve stayed in before. Alternatively, staying in the Citta Alta is one of the smaller B&Bs or private apartment rentals. If you have an early morning flight though, you might want to stay nearer the airport or drop off the car before exploring Bergamo.

    Car hire and driving in Italy: Ensure you have your international driving permit for Italy. Car hire costs will vary between seasons, but I suggest using a car-search platform to find the best value. You won’t be going too off the beaten path on this road trip, so there is no need to have a supercharged car.

    Be aware when parking for restrictions, which can change from space to space and will be marked on signs. A lot of places allow free overnight parking, but you may need to move them. Also, parts of some Italian cities have restricted zones that you may not be able to go into, even if others have – this will usually be followed with a fine letter a month later. Most of the time, signs are just in Italian, though, so keep an eye out!