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Belgian city breaks always hit the spot – this is arguably one of the best European countries to spend a few days soaking up the sights of some gorgeous medieval old towns.

With plentiful canals, often pedestrianised centres, and the ability to string a few cities together thanks to the country’s compact size and reliable rail network, Belgium is an easy-going getaway further helped by the speedy Eurostar connections to London.

However, picking a city break in Belgium isn’t as straightforward. While there are common threads across the country – frites, beers, chocolate and canals – all of the nation’s cities have personalities and reasons to visit. From the EU’s bureaucratic capital of Brussels to magnificent Mechelen bundled in Burgundian history, these are my favourite cities to visit in Belgium.

Mechelen

Best for an easy-access, walkable, delicious and Burgundian city break

Medieval Mechelen (pictured top) is undoubtedly one of Europe’s most underrated cities, especially as it ticks all the boxes for a perfect city break. It’s the ideal size, with plenty of things to do without requiring any public transport – unless you fancy taking a boat ride along the pretty Dyle. There’s a first-class food scene ranging from traditional Belgian food to vegan hotspots, including many unique places to eat on the Mechelen food trail inspired by the ingredients found in a Burgundy-era cesspit (trust me, it’s far more delicious than it sounds). And, it’s not inundated with cruise ship passengers, meaning you can amble around soaking up the three historic town halls, canal-tracking paths, museums and hidden palace courtyards without worrying about crowds.

Allow yourself at least a few days to learn all about Mechelen’s Burgundian history as the former capital of the Low Countries (then, much of Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg). As you climb the never-quite-completed St Rumbold’s Tower, VR sets will transport you back in time. In the recently renovated Hof van Busleyden Palace, artworks and interactive displays share the history of this city, which Margaret of Austria loved. And, once you’re done sightseeing, you can kayak along the inner canal, rewarded by some excellent local brews canalside or at Het Anker, a former Beguines’ brewery.

1.When to visit Mechelen?
Mechelen is an excellent city-break year-round. Come in summer, and free concerts and festivals abound (Parkpop and Maanrock), while Christmas has festive market charm. September and October are really nice months as it’s likely still sunny, the outside market is a joy, and the leafy city is turning copper and bronze.
2.How to get there?
You can reach Mechelen from Brussels by train in less than 25 minutes.
3.Where to stay?
I love Porta Superia. It’s an eco-minded bed and breakfast set in a gorgeous historical building that retains all the best original bits while having a touch of luxury. Plus, the owner, Kurt, will give you plenty of insider tips over a delicious breakfast.

Dinant

Best for a peaceful riverside city break in often overlooked Wallonia

While most first-time visitors to Belgium tend to stick to the more famous, larger cities in the northern, Dutch-speaking Flanders region, they are missing a trick. Wallonia, the southern, French-speaking part of the country has plenty of draws with handsome, river-flanking Dinant being just one. The low-key historic city is an excellent base to explore more of the Meuse Valley and it’s namesake river European hidden gems, with enough attractions and decent restaurants to fill the evenings and a day or two.

One of Belgium’s most famous beers, Leffe, hails from here, being founded by monks in the 12th-century Abbaye de Leffe. Nowadays, there’s a museum across the river dedicated to the brew. Dinant was also the home of Adolphe Sax, who gave his name to his invention, the saxophone, ensuring music has remained an essential part of any experience in the Meuse. If it’s sunny, rent a kayak and explore the river. Rainy? Marvel at the stained glass inside the hulking onion-domed cathedral. Hungry? You won’t be for long.

1.When to visit Dinant?
Dinant is most alive during summer’s significant events, namely August’s International Saxophone Festival and al fresco performances each Sunday in July and August. Spring is a nice time to be in the Meuse Valley for wildflower hiking and kayaking along the river.
2.How to get there?
It’s around two hours from Brussels by train (with a change) or with a connecting bus from Namur.
3.Where to stay?
For a memorable stay, book La Merveilleuse, an old monastery and home to Maison Leffe.

Ghent

Best for cultural events, imposing architecture and a surprisingly youthful energy

Gorgeous Ghent seamlessly blends medieval history with youthful energy and artistic festivities. This is a good city break for culture enthusiasts in Belgium, especially if you schedule your visit to coincide with one of the animated annual events like July’s Gentse Feesten.

Not that there’s a bad time to visit. The imposing, moated, 12th-century Gravensteen Castle, the former Castle of the Counts, is fascinating to tour year-round. The network of canals, especially those flanked by historic gabled facades around Korenlei, are pretty even in the rain. And between all the top-notch museums and galleries –the SMAK Contemporary Art Museum has some great exhibits – there’s always something else to discover in Ghent.

1.When to visit Ghent?
There’s always something cultural going on in Ghent. The most famous music bash is the city-encompassing Gentse Feesten (July), with Flanders Festival Ghent (September) and the Winter Festival (December) also being worth planning around.
2.How to get there?
The fastest direct train from Brussels to Ghent takes 35 minutes.
3.Where to stay?
I wanted to embrace the canals, so I stayed at Hotel The Boatel, a floating houseboat with a handful of guest rooms just a short walk from the centre. I highly recommend it.

Brussels

Best for a busy city break of museums, galleries and international flair

Brussels blends a bit of everything into one. Sure, it might have something of a sterile and bureaucratic reputation as the EU’s central HQ, but that also makes it one of the most international cities on the planet. If you want to dive into that part of the city’s story, I highly recommend the interactive Parlamentarium and House of European History museums which add informative context to how the various branches of the EU works.

Prefer to street clear of politics? Dive into the magnificent, historic architecture starting at UNESCO-listed La Grand-Place, a central square market square flanked by buildings spanning from the 14th to the 19th century, some literally sparkling from their golden facades. Add on a visit to The Royal Palace for more stately sights and the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts crammed with Flemish masters. Or, just soak up the international vibe, snack on first-class frites from street sellers, hop between the craft beer bars of the Bailli-Châtelain neighbourhood, and find out why Brussels doesn’t deserve any kind of boring reputation.

1.When to visit Brussels?
As the capital, Brussels boasts a pretty packed year-round event calendar, so there isn’t really a bad time to visit, especially since there are so many museums and galleries to tour when the weather turns.
2.How to get there?
It’s around 20 minutes by bus from the airport to the city centre. From London, your best bet is to take the Eurostar – it’s less than a two-hour journey and is far more central. From here, it’s easy to connect to other cities by train.

Bruges

Best for canals, chocolate and usually crowds

One of Belgium’s most beautiful cities, Bruges is what you imagine when you think of a postcard-perfect representation of old-town Europe.. Narrow, calm canals snake through most corners of the historic centre, pretty cobbled streets weave between restaurant terraces and leafy squares, and tourists in their thousands keep it crowded. There’s no denying that Bruges has become a poster child for overtourism. I recently returned after my first visit 15 years ago, and I couldn’t believe how busy it is now, even in the supposed shoulder season. But there’s a reason everyone flocks here: it’s gorgeous with a capital G.

It also combines everything we love about Belgium into a relatively compact core. Galleries, like the Groeninge Museum, are stacked with canvas courtesy of Flemish masters, Boat trips depart by the dozen, slowly gliding up the storybook waterways. The main squares are shadowed by fairytale architecture, with the medieval Belfry of Bruges as its centrepiece. And you barely need to walk to stumble upon another Belgian chocolate shop, beer bar or crowded photo spot. Stay overnight, and at least get a slightly calmer few hours with the nearly-still, reflecting canals bathed in the golden glow.

1.When to visit Bruges?
My tip to truly enjoy Bruges is to schedule your visit when cruise ships aren’t docking – it’s not the largest city. Day-trippers can completely overtake it as sailings do operate year-round. That said, Christmas is super magical, even if crowded, and February’s light festival brightens the greyest months.
2.How to get there?
The fastest direct trains from Brussels Midi take less than an hour to reach Brugge.
3.Where to stay?
Hotel Jan Brito is a delightful old manor house in the historic centre that’s fairly priced. Beyond the traditional facade, there’s a serene courtyard garden, stately old-school rooms and a hammam for relaxing after a long day.

Antwerp

Best for a solid Brussels alternative as a big city with plenty going on

A weekend in Antwerp, Belgium’s second city, promises a good middle ground. It’s big enough to feel like a “proper city” with an imposing, palatial train station setting the tone for the rest of the city. In its central square, the Grote Markt, you get some of the grandeur of Brussels’ Grand Place, but with fewer photo shoots and fairer prices. The Cathedral of Our Lady’s Belfry soars higher still than Bruges’ counterpart and comes with the bonus of Rubens’ masterpieces inside. And, if you’re a fan, you can get a further fix at his former home-turned-museum, the Rubenshuis.

But what makes Antwerp one of the best cities to visit in Belgium is its contemporary side. Modern art is well-represented in a couple of galleries; it bills itself as the nation’s fashion capital and has a dedicated museum, MoMu, to back up its claim; and with a decent-sized university, there are some cracking beer bars that won’t break the bank. Antwerp might have been known for its Diamond trade and district for centuries, but there’s also plenty of new to rewrite the old.

1.When to visit Antwerp?
Antwerp’s many cultural attractions make it an anytime city break. The Antwerp Art Weekend (end of May) and Zomer van Antwerpen summer festival (late June until the end of August) are two of the largest events.
2.How to get there?
The fastest direct trains from Brussels to Antwerp (the train station is an attraction) takes 40 minutes.
3.Where to stay?
Central, usually affordable, and above one of the city’s best vegan restaurants, Simone’s Kitchen B&B is a reliable pick. If you want to splurge, consider the 5* Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp housed in a 15th-century monastery.

Tears infiltrate my eyes as the ragged road pummels the car’s suspension. “It will be worth it”, Alex, my driver-turned-new-best-friend, gleefully calls from upfront. “It’s my favourite beach in Dominica”.

But it was neither the bumpy dirt track nor the eye-itching dust that was causing my bleary eyes; rather, the moment to utter farewell to this precious Eden was fast approaching. Soon, a small twin prop would rip me away from this wild, rugged, and ravishing nation — and almost certainly, a fragment of my heart would remain behind.

Rarely does a place compel me to cry at goodbye, but as I’d learned over the previous nine days, the Commonwealth of Dominica is as unusual as departing tears. Islands like these are fast fading in a tide of over-tourism, an ironic fact given the very reasons we trumpet travel — arresting landscapes, chummy conversations, untamed wilderness and the awe of authentic adventure — are all writ large here.

Equally uncommon was the manner in which this lush speck in the eastern Caribbean Sea had taken mere moments to earn my adoration. And Alex, now wrestling the wheel to swing into a pristine palm-laden bay, had been an influential part of that all-important first impression.

A verdant welcome

“Honking is good; honking is friendly,” Alex hollers over the rhythm of the horn as we ascend into cloud-reaching peaks. Villagers frantically wave at my driver — who I am starting to assume is some kind of local superstar — and with each hand raised, he dutifully shoots back a short toot. Behind us, the minuscule airport shrinks into the distance, rampant rainforest and wild river-coated terrains enveloping our vehicle.

Suddenly, Alex kills the engine. Signalling me to angle my ear outside the window, the squawk of a parrot echoes like a roar over the whispering breeze. The scent of lemongrass leaves lingers in the air, and almost on cue, the first drops of the day’s rain tumble. Inclining myself to be further out of the car, I breathe it all in, the humid air more intoxicating than any manmade substance.

Just thirty minutes after arriving in Dominica, I was feeling more in harmony with nature than I had all year. You don’t have to scour far for Mother Earth’s most exceptional work here; it’s everywhere and all-encompassing.

Pulling into Roseau, Dominica’s mountain-backed, pint-sized capital on the island’s west, Alex welcomes me to my first temporary home, the historic Fort Young Hotel. Check-in is swift, and while I sip on a welcome drink — the first of what I assume will be many locally distilled rum punches — I discover that too-cool, cheeky-grinned Alex was, in fact, one of the very few people on the island who wasn’t a film star. He tells me most other islanders made their silver screen debut when the cast of Pirates of the Caribbean had descended on the island a few years back, roping plenty of the 70,000-odd residents into background roles.

I glance around, and my next question answers itself: these cinematic views are more than Hollywood-worthy

From the balcony of my sea-facing suite, the sparkling waters seem close enough to touch. I’m half tempted to plunge in — the hotel doubles as a scuba school, after all. But unlike a typical luxury Caribbean resort, there’s no private beach at Fort Young; instead, a diving pier delivers you directly to the Caribbean Sea. And rather than being far-removed from the day-to-day of Dominica’s life, the city’s colour and character are right on the doorstep.

Keen to grab a light bite before calling it a night, I venture to the hotel’s high-roofed, all-wooden restaurant in hunt of Callaloo, a vegetable-loaded soup that serves as Dominica’s national dish. A special scuba open day has taken over the pool, allowing local kids to master the basics of diving. Spoon in hand, I grin with great delight; I’m not going to have to try hard to slip into a resemblance of local life here.

Subued by stew and a second (okay, third) rum punch, I push the balcony doors wide before sinking into the silky bed. The sea shimmers under the moonlight while stars flicker in the dim night sky. Feeling like I’m cocooned in a cruise cabin, the soothing tide lullabies me into dreams of breaching sperm whales and dancing dolphins.

Into the Eden

“No cocktails. No lying on the beach here. No-no-no.” my hardy hiking guide, Marvin, chortles as we hide from heaven’s downpour under a somewhat leaky canopy. “Strap your boots on, and let’s go dive in some pools”, he booms above the rain’s racket.

It was at this moment I knew Dominica was going to live up to its moniker as ‘The Nature Island’. While other Caribbean destinations promise pricey pampering and lazy days flitting from beach to bar, Dominica’s allure is more adrenaline than all-inclusive. It’s the kind of place you come for multi-day hikes, pinnacling in makeshift rum shacks rather than to top up your tan.

And here, in the chasms of the lush UNESCO-listed Morne Trois Pitons National Park, I was in my element. Tropical overgrowth blankets the valley’s terrain in all directions, while the occasional fumarole acts as a reminder of the island’s volcanic nature. Marvin strides ahead, guiding me through an unexpected degustation menu of the island’s fauna.

“These taste like crisp green apples”, he advises, eagerly passing me an average-looking leaf. “And these,” he continues, pausing for a moment at a ruby-hued berry tree, “these are safe to eat”.

Marvin dismisses our masterclass in wild fruit salad making, and we resume our rainforest trek for another hour or so until towering Middleham Falls comes into view. Getting closer, a slight yet stealthy stream of water crashes down from some 60 metres overhead, the wind guiding a welcome and refreshing mist in our direction. At the cascade’s base, an even more refreshing swim beckons, although it seems the only other two hikers we’ve witnessed so far this morning have got first dibs in one of Dominica’s five-star showers. Awaiting our dip, I bask in the bewildering feeling of having this moment of equilibrium almost all to myself.

Reading my mind, Marvin informs me it’s not always this tranquil, particularly when the cruise ships dock. Thankfully, for more intrepid travellers, at least, liners anchor far less regularly here than on more fabled nearby isles, with itineraries often bypassing Dominica in favour of easier-to-market soft sands. The lack of direct international flights — until a Miami route launched in 2023, there were only inter-Caribbean connections — dictated by the diminutive runway also ensures these ethereal scenes remain relatively undisturbed.

Continuing onwards and upwards, we track part of the Waitukubuli National Trail. Named after one of the island’s original names, bestowed by the indigenous Kalinago people, this is the Caribbean’s first long-distance trek. Traversing some 185 kilometres of far-flung fauna and flora over 14-day sections, it’s certainly not for the faint-hearted — Dominica’s topography is more that of a mountain soaring from the sea than a typical island.

Adventures over all-inclusive

The next morning, wrapped in a wetsuit tighter than the crevices I was about to scrape through, I’m back in class. This time, for a lesson on launching myself from precipices rather than studying which berries won’t kill me. Up front, Berani from Extreme Dominica is demonstrating ropes and rappels while declaring how the island’s rainforests are as equally suited for scaling as roaming and waterfalls.

Approaching the moss-coated Ti Tou Gorge with a mix of awe and apprehension, I tentatively press myself through a tight fissure in the volcanic rock. If I’m honest, canyoning in the Caribbean was never really a box on my beach holiday bingo card, but I was adamant acrophobia wasn’t going to get the better of me.

Peering over the charcoal-grey edge, a chilling stream of water trickles over my feet, plunging into the gorge some thirty feet below. From here, it’s near impossible to ascertain how deep the opaque pool directly below me is, but a shout from far down reassures me that it’s more than safe. Teetering on the edge for a little too long, I hear Berani’s voice boom through the gorge, commencing a countdown. “3, 2, 1, jump!” he bellows above the soundtrack of gargling water, the final word echoing throughout the valley.

With my eyes closed, I blurt out a profanity and take a leap of faith. Seconds later, I’m fully submerged in the chilly waters, and my swear words shift into underwater screams of joy. As I push my helmeted head back above the surface, Berani greets me with a high five.

He had been right, of course; that was an unforgettable adventure. Quickly, I haul my smitten self onto the subsequent ledge, excitedly slinging myself down the next zip wire — it was time to work up an appetite.

“Shrimp, chicken or fish?” questions a furrowed yet forgiving face peeking through the window of the River Rock Cafe cabin. By now, I’m well aware that many of Domincia’s best restaurants don’t need menus, and I fire back my order without hesitation. On the terrace, a stone’s throw from the impressive twin cascades of Trafalgar Falls, the soundtrack of tumbling water and trilling birds provides for a tranquil lunch spot.

I lean back in my chair, wondering if anything can make this setting more perfect. The answer arrives in the form of flavoursome creole-sauce-coated freshwater shrimps washed back with creamy soursop juice.

Fueled and fizzled by the mid-day heat, I plump for an afternoon of soft adventure. Dominica’s 365 rivers — everyone keeps reminding me that there is one for each day of the year — and innumerable lakes aren’t just ripe for active exploits; they’re also rich in soothing properties. Closest are the sulphur springs of Wotten Waven, which, on arrival, disappoint. After the majestic nature-carved pools of this morning, the site of cement-circled baths overshadows any assurance of rejuvenation.

Instead, we climb deeper into the heart of Morne Trois Pitons to circle the Freshwater Lake Trail. Cloud and drizzle join us, shrouding the forest and sizeable body of water in a hazy mist, yet we still manage to track the ridge of this dormant volcano. I’d had high hopes of hiking to the infamous Boiling Lake, a grey, gurgling former fumarole that you certainly wouldn’t want to swim in, but sadly, time was not on my side.

En route back to Fort Young, Alex suggests a quick stop at Morne Bruce Lookout. High above Roseau, the city seems even more compact, a spectacular sunset starting to swallow the settlement. “You should try to make it to the Emerald Pool,” Alex suggests as I put my camera into overtime. “That’s the best spot for a refreshing plunge”, he chimes, striking a thumbs-up pose for the final photo of the day.

Sightings from the sea to the sky

“Look! It’s over there,” whispers Bertrand Jno Baptiste as I abandon my bicolours in favour of his far-reaching telescope. Squinting and refocusing, I finally glimpse what we’ve spent half the morning searching for: the endemic and ethereal purple-and-green Sisserou parrot. I remain silent in hopes that Dominica’s national bird will linger longer in the canopy across the valley, and for a few moments, it feels like she’s staring me straight down the barrel.

Footsteps ruffle on the leaf-coated trail behind me, and an enthusiastic voice breaks the stillness. “Dr Birdy’, a lady sings in an English accent, eagerly making a beeline for Bertrand. She recounts to our group how she had seen him present a talk at a bird-watching event in the UK the year before. An expert in all things winged, the nickname is unsurprising, and there’s no one I’d rather have serenading me with facts as we stroll the Syndicate Nature Trail.

Without any predators on land, the island’s exotic bird population remains steady, though some species are now classified as endangered. Sadly, the same can’t be said of Dominica’s mountain chicken frog. Once abundant and previously seen as a gastronomic speciality, the numbers of these croaking amphibians have fallen drastically in recent years. Dominica is the last remaining place on earth where the species can be found, and with less than two dozen still alive, efforts to avert extinction are critical.

But while wildlife in the interior might stay well hidden in the lush rainforest, it’s another story a few hundred metres off Dominica’s coast.

“Did you see that?” squeals a fellow passenger as a pair of breaching sperm whales descend back into the depths of the deep blue. Gawping and gleeful, my eyes continue scanning the lapping waters, and I’m quickly rewarded with a second sighting of playful dolphins.

As one of the only countries in the world to have a year-round resident population of sperm whales, your chances of witnessing these majestic mammals and plenty of other cetaceans in the wild are high. It’s one of the main reasons in-the-know travellers have flocked to Dominica for decades, especially between November and March.

Before our small craft had departed from spectacular Scotts Head, the starting point of popular scuba adventures in Soufrière Bay, we had been told about conservation efforts and Dominica’s rules for protecting marine life. Daily boat departures are capped, and ships have to stay well back from any whales. Most importantly, jumping overboard would not be tolerated — permits are required to swim anywhere near whales.

But as the two majestic whales return for another tail-wagging performance, no one seems to mind that they kept their distance; if anything, I feel good to be in a country that doesn’t seem intent on destroying itself. Nature seems a more important currency in Dominica than the dollar; hopefully, it will remain that way.

Indigenous lands

Dominica’s extreme mountains and isolated positions aren’t just an adventure playground — they’ve long offered both home and protection to the island’s first people, the Kalinago, and one of the best ways to learn about the traditions and culture of the indigenous community is to visit their territory.

Driving up the coast to the eastern side of the island, there’s no fanfare or fences as we cross the ‘border’ into the Kalinago territory. The same lush carpet of emerald green leads the way, though I do notice an abundance of yellow flags fluttering outside homes. Alex informs me they relate to the upcoming elections — the colour is the symbol of the Kalinago people — while the red and blue flags we’d seen elsewhere represent other political parties.

Arriving at one of the eight hamlets that make up the 1,500-hectare Kalinago territory, I’m eager to learn more about the the community and their history. Like many of the colonised islands in the Caribbean, Dominica was harrowed by the slave trade and slaughter, yet some of the local population managed to survive. It wasn’t any degree of kindness that led to some of Dominica’s first people being spared; the island’s topography and isolated mountains allowed the Kalinago people to hide and continue their life and culture on this otherwise ignored stretch of coast.

Still, only a small area of land was decreed to the Kalinago in 1903, a reminder of how much was seized by the Spanish, French, and British who conquered and pillaged this isle.

Walking around the Kalinago Barana Aute (the village by the sea), I’m taken on a tour of traditional outfits, thatched homes, weapons and stories from times long gone. With no cruise ships this month, the site is devoid of visitors, meaning I could decline dance performances and weaving workshops and instead opt for more intimate insight and unguarded one-on-one conversations.

In the visitor centre, I read about how the island was originally known as Ouitoucoubouli, then Waitukubuli before Christopher Columbus renamed it in 1493 with an unsurprisingly Latin and Christian name of Dominica (translated, it means Sunday, aka the Lord’s Day – the day he first sighted the island). However, it was the French who first truly colonised the islands. Further exhibits inform about how the Kalinago (formerly known as Carib Indians) ancestors came from Asia and across the Bering Straits before settling in the Orinoco River basin in South America. It was from here that the Kalinago travelled to become the first settlers of Dominica.

Justinian, a Kalinago guide, chats with me about the modern-day territory and local rules. Outsiders can’t buy property or land in this protected area, but of course, the Kalinago can live wherever they like on the island. She tells me that this means there are only around 3500 people still living on the territory and that recent reports suggest about 90% of the Kalinago people now have mixed heritage. Sadly, the indigenous language has nearly died out, with just a few phrases still in use and only the elders — one lady who is over 100 in particular — knowing the language skillfully.

What is luxury anyway?

Begrudgingly, I drag my bags down to the reception desk of Fort Young, taking a whistlestop tour to say my goodbyes to the hotel team, who had treated me like family rather than a guest over the previous few days. It was Saturday morning and time to leave Roseau in favour of the west coast, but I was keen to see a little more of the island’s capital first.

Strolling the downtown streets one last time, colour and conversation were rife. Market day was well underway, and fresh fruits such as mangoes, bananas, guava and custard apples were laden high in the shade of rainbow-striped umbrellas. Stocking up on coconut tablet — sweet sugar and spice balls of shaved coconut I’d developed a fondness for, but my dentist would likely detest — I continue to the National Museum of Dominica to find it shuttered on weekends.

Roseau might not be the most attraction-laden city, but it had been good to me. The botanic gardens are serene if small, and there are enough atmospheric bars and restaurants serving local specialities, such as the invasive lionfish, to offer varied evenings. Alex had also advised me early on that it’s always best to ask for the ‘local drinks’ as these mainly rum-based berverages are billed in Eastern Caribbean Dollars, unlike the cruise-ship-ready menus in USD. While grateful for the advice, this had led to a few affordable hazy evenings.

Driving up the west coast, we pass silver sand beaches, which quickly start fading into black shorelines as we get further north and deeper into the volcanic side of Dominica. Stepping onto the surprisingly soft black sands, which were being baked by the sun, I quickly forgot about Fort Young Hotel; Portsmouth, Dominica’s second city, was certainly anything but a consolation prize.

For the last few nights of my trip, I’d opted to stay at the Picard Beach Cottages. Simple, laid-back and all wooden, the vibe is far more Southeast Asia backpacker than a Caribbean resort. Settling into a low-slung chair on the veranda, which has direct access to an underdeveloped beach, I take in the absurdly handsome views of Cabrits National Park opposite, quickly distracted by a rainbow radiating above the still waters.

I raise my arrival soursop juice to what I call luxury: a flawless view, an easy-going room, and time to take it all in. Who needs a five-star hotel when your bedroom opens onto this?

Rivers of rum

Roseau was sleepy, but Portsmouth was in even more of a slumber. Ambling along the beach, the occasional juice cafe and seafood restaurant appeared between the foliage. It’s unsurprising that this side of the island had been used as a backdrop in Pirates Of The Caribbean; I felt like a true castaway.

With little to do other than settle into a slower pace of life, I could have easily spent my final days in Dominica reading, relaxing and recharging. But there was one last location I was keen to experience: the Indian River.

From the town, it was easy enough to find a small wooden boat to take the slightly touristy ride upstream. Dipping under an overhanging canopy, the river narrowed, and my captain pointed towards some palms, announcing that this is where the Kalinago had initially lived. Other than the splashing of the oar hitting the water, all is silent; I find myself breathing in the intoxicating drug that is Dominica again.

Along the river banks, a clutch of Bush Bars — modest wooden structures where home-distilled rums in every imaginable flavour are dished up — invite you to pause for a pick me up. Stepping off the raft onto the pier, I quickly realise these are more touristy than some of the authentic tipples I’ve had elsewhere. But still, I figure it would be rude not to raise a glass to the river and order a papaya-infused rum, which is readily poured from a questionable bottle. The afternoon would be spent snoozing on the swarthy sands anyway.

A final beach boarding call

Tears infiltrate my eyes as the ragged road pummels the car’s suspension. “It will be worth it”, Alex, my driver-turned-new-best-friend, gleefully calls from upfront. “It’s my favourite beach in Dominica”.

Swinging the car off the dirt track, Alex announces our arrival. Nestled in private land — I’d had to hand over a few dollars to take the road — Batibou Beach is about as paradisical Caribbean as you can get. A deserted, palm-fringed bay, I found myself spitting out various superlatives as I rushed to place my feet in the translucent water.

Sitting in silence on a makeshift swing, I survey the empty shoreline and feel another rush of emotion. Dominica had been an island unlike any other, and to coin a lazy travel writing term, I felt truly speechless. Luckily, there were few words left to say other than expressing my heartfelt thanks to Alex, who felt more like a lifelong friend at this point. And of course, that dreaded goodbye.

“You’ll be coming back,” Alex declared confidently as we hugged it out in the car park of the teeny airport after a final roadside snack. “Carnival is in February, or come in October for independence celebrations”, he continues, and I make a mental note of when I should start planning that inevitable second visit.

Stepping into the tiny terminal where just a few passengers are waiting, the check-in assistant questions why I’m grinning when I’ll soon be leaving her beautiful home.

“I’m not happy I’m leaving”, I reply as she hands over the boarding cards. “I’m smiling because I’ve found a paradise I didn’t believe could exist”.

Summoning the strength to mutter a final goodbye to Alex, I take a few steps into the boarding area. The small hall is souvenir-shop-free, but parting gifts weren’t necessary; this Eden was now etched in my heart, a memory that would long outlive a fridge magnet.

To be honest, the first time I visited Morocco, I wasn’t a fan. Well, to be more precise, the first time I visited Marrakech, I wasn’t a fan. It was a long weekend jaunt way back, and between the harassment and getting sick, it was the first time I’d visited anywhere and came away vowing not to return. But I did, and over my following visits, and with a little more planning, I soon fell in love with Morocco and even Marrakech. I think it’s fair to say a lot has changed in the last decade.

Still, when planning a trip to Morocco, choosing where, when and how to travel around will play a big role in how much you enjoy your experience. Putting aside the obvious, such as visas, scams and currency – it’s the Moroccan Dirham (MAD), by the way – these Morocco travel tips should help in the pre-planning stage to hopefully ensure you have a fantastic first visit.

Learn some of the right language(s)

Morocco’s two official languages are Arabic and Amazigh. But it’s not as simple as that. The Arabic language has noticeable differences across the world and here it’s no exception. If you plan to learn some phrases, be sure to study Moroccan Arabic, known as Darija, to ensure you are learning the most local versions of words although the most general terms remain relatively similar.

Alongside the two official languages, due to the French protectorate and history of the nation, French is widespread and, in the north especially, you’ll also be able to get by with Spanish. In touristy areas you’ll also likely get by with English, though when planning your trip to Morocco, it’s a courtesy to at least learn some local Darija words and, if you plan on spending time in the mountains or desert, a few Amazigh phrases too.

Understand the local customs, etiquette and LGBTQ+ laws

All visitors to Morocco should keep in mind it’s a fairly conservative country. Instagram photoshoots might tell a different story, but for most travellers, dressing moderately (covering shoulders and knees), being respectful if visiting the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, not drinking too much alcohol and being mindful of what you say – such as when referencing the Western Sahara – should be enough to not cause offence.

For the LGBTQI+ community, further cautions should be taken. It might seem like Marrakech has become something of a liberal, creative and free-spirited city in recent years, but homosexuality remains illegal. Absolutely avoid public displays of affection and take general precautions. Still, there is an active underground gay scene in the country and if you speak to a few queer locals you’ll hear that while the legal stance remains firm, as long as discreet, the community isn’t persecuted in the same way as in some other Muslim nations. Still, you might want to consider one of the growing number of gay tours. Having a local guide who fully understands the situation and dynamics will undoubtedly be safer than trying to find the scene yourself.

Choose your dates wisely

Morocco makes for an excellent year-round destination, but you’ll want to factor in the heat of summer vs the winter chill. There’s even a ski resort near Ifrane, dubbed the Little Switzerland. My last trip was over Christmas and New Year and I found the temperatures perfect and it was not too crowded. Pay particular attention to the dates of Ramadan, the holy month, as this can affect opening hours although not to the same extent as in some other countries such as Egypt. If you do visit during Ramadan, read up on the correct cultural practices to follow, especially as many people you meet will be fasting.

Consider arriving from Spain by ferry

On a clear day, you can see Morocco’s Rif Mountains from southern Spain. It’s only 15 km between the two countries at their closest points. Combining Spain’s Andalucia regions – which shares a lot of history and cultural elements – with Morocco is an excellent idea and easily done by ferry.

However, not all routes are created easily and if you plan to arrive in Morocco by ferry you’ll want to check the different routes, each with their pros and cons, to work out where you’ll arrive and how you’ll continue onwards. This is especially true if you plan to enter or return via one of Spain’s exclaves, Melilla and Ceuta, as then you’ll need to do the border controls on land, rather than onboard the ferry.

Book your train tickets (and major attractions) in advance

My number one Morocco travel tip is to book your high-speed train tickets in advance, particularly if you need to travel on a specific service at a specific time. ONCF is the train operator in the country and it has two websites; use the ONCF Voyages website to book online. All seats require a reservation so, once the last seat is sold, there is no chance of getting onboard.

This is especially true for the high-speed Al Boraq services which are often used by commuted inter-city. But if you want to secure a seat on the slower Al Atlas trains, you should also book ahead as these are especially popular with locals travelling around. We had an issue with the wrong date being on our tickets on one of these services but, while the conductor let us squeeze into a hallway, all the seats were already reserved so there was no chance of buying a new ticket last minute. You’ll also want to secure timeslots for some of the most popular attractions, like Marrakech’s Jardin Majorelle in advance.

Research bus companies and routes

If you’re planning to travel Morocco extensively on your own, chances are you’ll need to use the inter-city bus network at some point as the trains simply don’t reach all major destinations. There are two main operators. Supratours is generally the best option for onward train connections. Being a subsidiary of ONCF, the Morocco rail operator, many departures and arrivals are directly to the stations.

The second operator, serving more destinations, is CTM. Both operate modern and clean coach style buses and can be booked online in advance. However, there are other bus operators in different parts of the country so you don’t need to be totally reliant on pre-booking and can check at the bus station for which routes and services are going where, buying the ticket before boarding. Just be warned that some of these services can be old, rattly and call at more stops so just sit back and enjoy the local experience.

Read up on Amazigh history and heritage

Often the culture of the indigenous people of Morocco, the Amazigh, can be overlooked on city breaks, especially given the the population is majority Arabic and Muslim. However, the Amazigh account for around 30% of the nation’s population and, especially when you go into the mountains, you’ll meet and hear their stories.

On the Intrepid Best of Morocco tour I took, I was so grateful to have had Hicham as my guide as he was so generous in sharing his culture and answering all and any questions we had. Do read up a little bit about the Amazigh’s history and heritage before you arrive in Morocco so you have a basic understanding, and be aware that the term Berber, while often used interchangeably with Amazigh, has negative connotations as it derives from the Latin word for barbarian.

Hire a local guide

I’m not usually one for hiring local guides, especially in the modern age of so much history and contextual information being available online. However, in Morocco, I’d suggest making arrangements for a few reasons.

Firstly, in Marrakech or Fez’s maze-like medinas, you’ll ensure you don’t miss any of the more local spots while getting lost. Secondly, there’s still a lot of context that I found missing online, especially when it comes to learning more about the Amazigh people. Thirdly, it will put your mind at ease if you’re a bit nervous about your first souk visit or haggling experience – just keep in mind that most guide’s have their go-to spots, often friends.

Spend a little more on the right accommodation

My biggest mistake on my first visit, and thus, one of the most important travel tips for Morocco in my eyes is to book the right accommodation. Yes, traditional riads with their central courtyards, are the gold standard of accommodation in Morocco but they aren’t all equal. Outside of popular tourist cities you’ll be able to enjoy an indulgent experience for a very fair price, but you might want to splurge if you’re staying in Fez or Marrakech to ensure you get the experience you’re after – especially if you want a pool to take a dip.

The same goes for dessert camps; do your research and find the right one, especially if you want a more intimate stay without numerous tour groups in one place. Lastly, do consider staying in homestays, especially in the mountains, as this is when you’ll really start to get to know the country through more personal connections. Just leave your expectations at home and respect that, even if you’re paying, you’re a guest in someone’s home.

Pack for all climes

Morocco’s diverse geography means that you could be burning by day and shivering at night. This is especially true when you head to the Atlas Mountains or plan to camp in the Sahara Desert. Bring plenty of layers to keep warm no matter the season, particularly at night, so you don’t end up sleeping in your winter coat like I did.

Do plan to go beyond Marrakech (even if you hate it)

When organising your trip to Morocco I urge you to plan to visit at least one other destination. Yes, it’s the most famous and popular destination in the country, but it’s also not overly representative of Morocco. I know many people who went to Marrakech and at first didn’t enjoy the experience (myself included), but on a second visit they soon found they loved other parts of the country. It’s easy to combine another city by rail, such as more cosmopolitan Casablanca or Rabat, while Tangier can make for a more laid-back city break.

Practice your bargaining and know the base prices

Haggling in souks (markets) is commonplace and one of my biggest Morocco travel tips would be to have a little practice before arriving and, if you have a specific purchase in mind, try to research what it should actually cost before you go into negotiations. I found that proposed prices could often start at double or triple what they were meant to be.

But don’t be disheartened, once you get into the firm but friendly swing of it – usually while sipping a mint tea – you realise it’s all part of the fun and the experience. Just remember the two key rules: 1) It’s only a scam if you walk feeling ripped off, and 2) it’s a two-way transaction; often as travellers we have the upper financial hand, and sometimes, throwing in some extra dirham is a nice gesture even if you feel you can shake it down further.

Plan enough time and be realistic

One of the most important planning tips for Morocco is to be realistic with your schedule. The country might not look huge on a map, but there are abundant mountains, a vast desert, and some roads can often be far slower to drive than your GPS suggests. Most group tours follow whirlwind itineraries, and you’ll often find that you are spending half of the trip on some form of transport. For a country overview, that’s great.

If you want to really slow down and soak up the experience, you’ll want to either cover less ground or plan a longer trip. One week should be enough to string a few cities together or enjoy a night in the desert and a city or two, but for an in-depth exploration of the country, plan a minimum of a fortnight, ideally longer. Either way, be flexible with your schedule to allow for things going wrong and always try to get back to your departure point at least the night before.

Morocco can be as expensive or affordable as you like

Balancing your finances when planning a trip goes for any destination. But it’s especially relevant when planning a trip to Morocco as the costs vary wildly. A boutique Riad in Marrakech might cost the same as ten days staying in an equivalent in Tetouan, so if you want a luxury experience for less, you might want to widen your destination search.

Likewise, a street food diet will keep your costs uber low, but there are some incredible award-winning restaurants that can quickly eat up your budget. Bottom line is this: don’t come to Morocco expecting it to be a cheap trip unless you specifically plan for it.

Consider supporting earthquake-hit communities

While not really a Morocco travel tip, it’s worth considering how your visit can support the local communities that were devastated by the earthquake in September 2023. While a year has passed, much of the work to rebuild villages – and equally as important, shift the attention back to critical work, such as water infrastructure, that has been delayed due to earthquake recovery – continues as I discovered after spending some time with the team at the High Atlas Foundation. Consider donating your money to a charity on the ground such as HAF who can ensure that it reaches where it is needed.

Within seconds of arriving at Saalfelden Leogang’s Stockinggut Hotel, I was out on the balcony, taking in the most magnificent of views. Caramel-coloured cows chowed down on saturated green grass, slate peaks soared high above the Alpine forest, and church spires splintered the verdant panorama in the distance. I hadn’t even heard of this place a few weeks before, and now it was already permanently imprinted in my mind.

Saalfelden Leogang might not be as famous as some of Austria’s other mountain resorts, but this range is popular with locals while remaining something of a hidden gem in Europe amongst international visitors. Set in the Pinzgau region (Zell am See District) in the State of Salzburg, Saalfelden is the regional city, while Leogang is an adorable village and municipality of majestic mountains.

Only around two hours from some of Austria’s best cities, both Salzburg and Innsbruck (and double again from Vienna), Saalfelden Leogang surely won’t continue to fly under the radar for too long. By winter, it’s a skiing paradise, and come summer, flower-laden hiking trails, concerts and cultural offerings take over the slopes. Here are some of the best things to do in Saalfelden Leogang no matter the time of year – although, if you know me, you’ll know that I adore Austria in summer more than any other season.

Soak up The Asitz Mountain’s culture in the summer

Of all the spectacular hikes I’ve taken in Austria, it’s those on The Asitz Mountain that I treasure most dearly. In winter, this soaring peak is coated in snow, but by summer, it’s a totally different picture.

Art installations link the middle and top gondola stations together through a forest trail, sculpture and herb gardens provide respite, paddling pools and still lakes bring cooling air to the sun-kissed slopes, and the open-air hammocks at the ‘Cinema of Nature’ invite you to sit and simply admire the landscapes.

But, perhaps most special is the summer concert program, where classical performances take place lakeside, with the imposing peaks of the range creating a cinematic backdrop. Even if you don’t get the opportunity to enjoy a live performance, a handful of wooden huts dot the Mountain of Senses – as it’s known locally – where you can sit down, recline, and listen to old recordings through a built-in speaker system.

If you have the Saalfelden Leogang Card (provided free by many hotels), then a summer cable car ride to the summit is even free, as is most local public transport.

Ski and snowboard in winter

One of the best things to do in Austria when winter’s fresh, powdery snow comes around is to the pistes, and Saalfelden Leogang has plenty of first-class skiing opportunities to choose from.

While I haven’t personally been here in winter, the keen skier who also manned the reception at my hotel waxed lyrical about the winter scene here, the Skicircus Saalbach being one of his best recommendations for taking to the slopes.

There’s a decent mix of runs across the terrain, with schools offering lessons. And, of course, Austria’s après-ski is an excellent way to enjoy Europe in winter.

Enjoy the Saalfelden Jazz Festival and the mountain summer concerts

Given that Saalfelden Leogang is in the state of Salzburg, famed for Mozart and its year-round program of concerts and entertainment, it should be no surprise that Saalfelden Leogang also has plenty of musical brags throughout the year.

One of the most notable events – as well as the aforementioned mountain concerts – is the city-hosted Saalfelden Jazz Festival, which takes place over a long weekend in August.

Stroll Leogang’s laid-back trail

Strolling around Saalfelden, you very much feel like you’re in a small city, even if the mountains are right there. In laid-back Legonag, however, it’s a very different atmosphere, even though it’s just a short bus ride away.

Lush meadows and majestic mountain trails span out from the village, which is about as postcard-perfect as an Alpine settlement can be. The small area around the Pfarrkirche is particularly adorable, where you can enjoy a coffee amongst the local farmers at Kaufhaus Hutter – also great for grabbing an organic deli-style picnic – before taking to the trails.

Visit Europe’s last occupied hermitage

On the edge of Saalfelden city – you can take a bus halfway, but then it’s a bit of a climb — overlooking the valley, you’ll find one of Austria’s most unique attractions: Europe’s last occupied hermitage.

With a small white chapel built into the rock, a little terrace, and a compact and humble home for the hermit, it’s an intimate location with magnificent views. If you’re lucky like I am, you might even get a chance to exchange a few words with the resident himself.

Having been in use since the 17th century, it’s quite fascinating to find the hermitage still occupied. Nearby, the Kühloch Cave was used during the Bronze Age, offering an even more ancient attraction.

Pamper yourself in an Alpine spa

Spa lovers will be spoilt for choice in Saalfelden Leogang, with plenty of Alpine treatments and pamper centres to choose from in one of Europe’s most underrated wellness destinations. What makes Leogang such a magical place for a rejuvenating retreat, though, is the setting. Looking out on forests and mountains while bathing or stepping outside into the fresh air post-sauna really adds to the experience and ensures any stress slips away.

There are several different options, but it’s perhaps best to book into a spa resort or hotel rather than try to find day passes. Some of the most impressive spa resorts really blend into their surroundings, with the family-run Hotel Krallerhof regarded as the valley’s finest.

Take on the Epic Bikepark Leogang

Adventures in the Alps aren’t just reserved for hikers and skiers, and in the Epic Bikepark Leogang, you’ll find one of the most adrenaline-fuelled sets of bike trails in the Alps – the park has even hosted the Biking World Championships.

Still, that doesn’t mean this outside arena and tracks are only for the pros. There are trails of all different levels to enjoy. Whether you prefer keeping on the ground firm, tackling some sky-high soaring jumps, or heading downhill at a speed that would scare any non-biker, you’ll find a biker’s playground ready for all skill levels.

Stroll (or swim) at Lake Ritzensee

Throughout the region around Salzburg, you’ll find plenty of dazzling lakes, and Saalfelden’s Lake Ritzensee—just a stone’s throw from the centre—is the easiest to access. While it might not have the turquoise fringes of some other Alpine lakes, it’s a popular place for the city’s residents to cool down and take a dip in summer or simply stroll around to be amongst nature.

Learn in Saalfelden’s museums

Being a relatively small city, Saalfelden doesn’t have many museums to boast about. But the couple that it does have are well-curated and worth spending an hour or two in if their niches appeal.

Schloss Ritzen Museum, a former palace that presides over the lake, is home to a collection of local findings and folklore items, with a particular emphasis on cribs. Across the city, the modern art gallery at the Kunsthaus Nexus is a stark contrast, although it only opens early evening from Thursday until Sunday.

The Mining and Gothic Museum in Leogang also has a curious mix of religious art and practical mining items inside an 18th-century chapel (once dedicated to the silver miners)and medieval tower. The Leogang Show Mine, in Schwarzleo Valley, is a little more interactive and would perhaps be a better option for families.

Fly high above on the Flying Fox XXL

For those who want to feel the mountain air as they fly through the sky, an adrenaline-pumping experience awaits atop The Asitz. The Flying Fox XXL is one of Saalfelden Leogang’s most famous attractions, especially given it is one of the fastest and most extended zip lines in the world. As you fly for nearly one mile, potentially reaching speeds of 80 miles per hour, you’ll take in the valley and Leogang’s mountains from a high – it’s an awe-inspiring way to get a unique perspective of the Alps!

Where to stay in Saalfelden Leogang

Saalfelden Leogang has a surprisingly decent amount of accommodation, with options ideal for those who prefer the urban sprawl right through to remote, Alpine lodge-style guest houses.

Alpine option: Stockinggut Hotel
I stayed at the peaceful and wood-clad Stockinggut Hotel and adored my stay – it felt like an almost all-inclusive Austrian Alps resort with the evening dinner option, and the views of the valley were beautiful. It’s also just a short walk from the gondola to reach the top of the mountain.

City-centre stay: Hotel die Hindenburg
If you want to be in the city of Saalfelden proper, then the boutique is one of your best bets from the limited pool available. It’s a beautiful and traditional building, but inside, the renovations have managed to be respectful while modern.

Luxury spa escape: Hotel Krallerhof
The Krallerhof is an above-and-beyond family-run spa hotel that is sunk into the spectacular landscape. Sustainable travel genuinely seems to be a focus here, and the design (and planned expansion) is just magical. It’s not cheap, but if you want a luxury escape in the Austrian Alps, Hotel Krallerhof is a winner.

On a budget: There isn’t much choice cheap hotel or hostel-wise. But in summer, camping is a good bet, with a few options.

How to get to and around Saalfelden Leogang

If you are flying, you can take your pick from Salzburg or Innsbruck’s summer or winter airport schedules. Alternatively, Munich Airport in Germany is a good choice. You can arrive by train in under two hours from any of these airports.

If you want to travel more sustainably by train you can take the Eurostar from London to Amsterdam and then change to the Alpine Express, an overnight service that stops in Saalfelden.

You might imagine being in the Alps, a car is required, but I had a great trip using public transport. The local bus, train, and gondola connections work well, and if you stay in accommodation signed up for a regional card (such as Stockinggut), you can use all the public transport locally for free.

Best Time to Visit Saalfelden Leogang and other FAQs

You can visit Saalfelden Leogang year-round; just expect to find two very different destinations depending on when you come. From late spring until early autumn, warmer days (around 20°C to 25°C) and a packed-out culture program make hiking trails far more appealing. By the time winter snow and negative temperatures return, snow and winter sports rule supreme.

Spain’s shimmering southern shoreline and idyllic Mediterranean islands have long cemented their holiday credentials. But when summer comes, accompanied by almost unbearably scorching heat, I’d argue that Northern Spain is the place to be.

Not that it’s only a destination reserved for sunny summer sojourns. Verdant, mountainous and mouthwatering, the north of this spirited nation is a year-round ticket thanks to hiking trails, a cracking culinary scene, and some show-stopping historical might. Yes, the autonomous communities of the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia along Spain’s northern coast are fine rivals for the likes of Andalusia and Catalonia, albeit with slightly different callings and things to do.

From embarking on a sacred pilgrimage along centuries-trodden trails and devouring the delicious regional specialities to gawping at Gaudí’s architecture and well-preserved Roman walls, these are my picks of the best places and things to do in Northern Spain – all easily strung together into an unforgettable Spain road trip itinerary.

Devour San Sebastián’s gastronomic delights

Donostia, or San Sebastián, has long been considered Spain’s culinary cradle. Arguably one of Europe’s best destinations for gastronomy, if not the world, this city takes eating seriously while keeping it social. With a clutch of ever-inventive chefs, a renowned culinary school and an impressive blend of Michelin restaurants, bite-size bar snacks and ‘secret’ gastronomic societies, there’s something on the menu for everyone.

The bar-topping star is the pintxos, an (often) bread-balanced morsel with local flavours – think anchovies, prawns, pickles, jamón, and piparras (local chilli peppers) – secured with a wooden skewer. Wash it all down with a glass of txakoli, the local, lightly sparkling wine poured theatrically from shoulder height. But don’t limit yourself to one spot; Donostia’s delight is that bar-crawls for pintxos are a must. Another reason to spend a weekend eating in San Sebastián is to seek out a hard-to-come-by invite to a txoko, the city’s typical, socially-powered, subsurface community kitchens. There are a few local tour companies that can pair you with a local chef.

Walk the final stretch of the Camino de Santiago

Since the 9th century, pilgrims have traversed Europe on foot to reach Santiago de Compostela in Northern Spain, where the relics of Saint James and the world-famous cathedral await. Some routes even begin in neighbouring France or Portugal, providing weeks or more of spiritual reflection. However, for those without the time or determination to spend multiple weeks walking, the one-week Camino de Santiago from Sarria allows you to join fellow pilgrims for the final 110 kilometres to reach the sacred city with a few fewer sores on your feet.

Starting in serene Sarria, this route only crosses the northwestern region of Galicia, a seafood-heavy, verdant-clad area that spills out to the crashing Atlantic. Being one of the most popular things to do in Northern Spain, especially in spring and autumn, you’ll want to plan well ahead to secure your lodgings (albergues) along the way, especially as nearly all those hiking other Camino routes will take this final stretch. En route, you’ll discover much of the old-world Galicia that defines the region, from well-preserved mediaeval stone bridges and dense forests to cheese-famous Arzúa and tumbling waterfalls. The final reward? Strolling into Plaza del Obradoiro to see the cathedral and a sea of fellow pilgrims.

Beeline for Bilbao’s cultural catch

Once maligned as merely a gritty port town, Bilbao started getting a serious glam-up in the late 1990s – though many would argue its boisterous nature which much of its charm. Thankfully, it retains much of its personality in the lively Casco Viejo (Old Town), where you’ll find chefs ready to rival those of nearby San Sebastián amongst the 700-year-old streets. Still, when it comes to impressive architecture and cultural landmarks, “New Bilbao” has plenty to brag about.

A big part of the city’s revival was the opening of the Bilbao outpost of the Guggenheim Museum in 1997. An outlandishly modern construction of titanium panels, its central arrival along the River Nervión didn’t come without controversy. Inside, contemporary architecture from all corners of the world is displayed, though it’s arguably the building which demands the most attention. However, you shouldn’t set your sights solely on this headliner; the more classical Museo de Bellas Artes, the Ethnographic Basque Museum, and a packed cultural calendar make Bilbao a top-notch cultural city break year-round.

Hike in Picos de Europa

Spain doesn’t come more striking, bucolic, or picturesque than Picos de Europa. Spanning Asturias, Cantabria and Castile–León, this vast and peak-peppered national park is a medley of pretty half-timbered villages, timeless food traditions, and forested hiking trails. Plus, the serrated peaks in the centre are a cinematic stand-in that can rival Italy’s Dolomites.

No matter if you prefer multi-day hikes or shorter jaunts, the stone guesthouse, sidrerías (cider houses) and rural villages with their local-produce markets, Picos de Europa has something for all. Some of the most adorable spots to set up base are river-hugging Potes in Cantabria with its wooden homes and timeless Asiego for a more offbeat Spain escape touring hyper-local producers. Head deeper still, and you’ll find Austrias’ most famous cheese cave in Las Arenas. Here, in damp and dark depths, wheels of blue Cabrales – the world’s most expensive cheese – age naturally. After having a whiff and a tasting, you’ll be more than ready for the fresh mountain air afforded by the near-ish cable car ascent to rural bolthole Bulnes.

Pause in Oviedo, Northern Spain’s prettiest city

Oviedo doesn’t have a long list of top sights like some of Spain’s other best cities, but that’s what makes it such a delightful place to pause and one of my favourite cities in Spain. Asturias’ regional capital, the city is renowned as one of Spain’s cleanest. However, it’s equally as famous for its love of sidra (cider) and a clutch of UNESCO-listed pre-Romanesque churches. Best experienced on foot following the sculpture trail, hopefully soundtracked by the Gaita Asturiana, the local bagpipe style instrument..

Spend a few days in Oviedo and you’ll come away well fed – Fabada Asturiana, a white bean stew, is one of the regional staples – relaxed and more in-the-know about the over 1000-year-old churches dating back to the days of the Kingdom of Asturias.

Marvel at Lugo’s mighty Roman walls

Roman ruins are plentiful across Spain, but in Lugo, a compact city in Galicia, the far-from-ruined walls are regarded as some of the country’s finest. Circling the whole town, the original Roman Walls remain fully intact, making them one of the best preserved in Europe. Indeed, they are considered so exemplary that the walls are classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Better still, you can walk atop the walls to circle the town for a pretty aerial view looking down on the city.

Other notable Roman attractions in Northern Spain include A Coruña’s Roman Lighthouse, the 1st-century Torre de Hércules, the only fully intact Roman lighthouse still standing proud. And, with a bit of a detour inland towards Madrid, the mighty Segovia aqueduct whose 167 arches dominate the city.

Make Asturian cheese and cider your daily treat

Much of Northern Spain’s menu is centred around seafood, but the mountains and pastures inland provide plenty of hardy mountain grub. The region is also a hotspot for all things dairy and apples, and the more than 40 types of Asturian cheese and the countless chigres (cider houses) are certain to become a staple of any visit.

Not that you need to descend into the depths of the previously mentioned Las Arenas caves for a tasting. Market traders will happily offer you samples of local cheeses – and happily air-wrap one for you to bring home – and in the traditional cider houses, the local alcoholic speciality is often accompanied by a tasting board. Unlike many ciders, Asturias’ offering is uncarbonated. It’s the expert escanciadors (cider servers) that add the bubbles to the glass by pouring the cider from a great height. Once hitting the glass, small bubbles form, and the little amount of cider poured should be drank quickly. Sidrería Tierra in Oviedo and Sidrería El Pareón in Picos de Europe are two of my favourites.

Bathe on Northern Spain’s verdant shorelines

Backed by vegetarian-clad hills, sloping vineyards and ribbons of golden sands, Northern Spain’s shoreline holds its own in summer. From the famous golden sand bay of San Sebastian to Art Nouveau Gijon’s urban beaches, you don’t have to stray far from the city for a swim. Sure, the water might not be as warm as the Mediterranean coastline, but it’s also rarely as crowded.

Still, finding the best of the northern coast beaches requires a little more work. Laid-back and postcard-perfect villages such as Cudillero are a good bet, as is the sweeping Playa de Gerra near Santander. The further west you head, the more wind-weathered and dramatic the coastline becomes. Wind-battered Cabo Fisterra, with its myths and legends, is a cinematic coastal spot, with the slightly protected Playa de Langosteira a sensational white sand swim on a summer’s day. Further south, towards the Portuguese border, the Cíes Islands provide some of Europe’s prettiest beaches blended with lush hills rising from translucent waters.

Gawp at León’s Gaudí and glasswork

Northern Spain’s draws aren’t just the coast, and after hopping on one of Spain’s high-speed trains, you’ll soon be whisked to the underrated European city of León. Laid-back and pedestrianised in its centre, León is a fantastic place to enjoy free tapas at traditional bars (rather rare in Northern Spain) and marvel at a clutch of magnificent monuments.

Even Gaudí, best known for his work in Barcelona, left his mark here with the construction of Casa Botines. Relatively subdued and far less flamboyant than his signature style, the straight-lined and imposing former fabric factory still has a few of his expected design quirks inside. For a splash of colour, venture into León Cathedral, where some of Europe’s most intricate, impressive and oldest – some date from the 14th century – stained glass windows rain down a kaleidoscope of colours inside the nave. Then, take a tour of the ‘Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art’, the Royal Pantheon inside the Basilica of San Isidoro de León, for one of Spain’s finest frescoed ceilings.

Cast yourself back in time at a Galician Castro

Prefer your history lesson pre-Roman? Introducing Northern Spain’s clutch of castros. These conical-structured, fortified villages can be found dotted around Galicia, providing some of Europe’s most unique places to visit. Usually located in strategic locations, such as upon hills or along the coast, a castro visit isn’t just a peek into the past but also comes accompanied by some striking panoramas.

One of the most impressive, for its scale and position, is the coastal Castro de Baroña, less than an hour from Santiago de Compostela. Believed to have been inhabited from the 1st century BC, around 22 circular stone home bases are still visible on the bay-flanked headland. While the roofs may be long gone, it’s an awe-inspiring experience to walk amongst the 2000-year-old village and look out on the cerulean waters, imagining the days of yore.

Relish the wines of Rioja in Laguardia

No visit to Spain would be complete without sampling the country’s famed wines, and none come more internationally established than the ruby red Riojas. One of the things to do in Northern Spain is to join a wine-tasting tour, but it’s equally possible to get your vino introduction DIY. From San Sebastián or Bilbao, it’s just a short drive south to the Rioja wine region and you don’t even need to cross the regional borders to get there. La Rioja is an official autonomous community in Spain, but the Rioja wine region also blends into the Basque Country in Álava.

Laguardia is one of my favourite places in Northern Spain, partly because of how pretty a medieval town it is, but mainly because of the wine tunnels. I only ended up coming here because of a Spain food tour I took, and that’s how I discovered this wonderful underground maze. Fascinatingly, the town has a labyrinth of some 250 tunnels hidden below its pretty stone buildings. They are so delicate that cars aren’t allowed into the old town to prevent collapses. However, visitors can venture into the tunnels – now used mainly for ageing Rioja wines – to enjoy a tour followed by a wine tasting at a couple of wineries, my favourite being Bodega El Fabulista. Once back in the light, drive 10 minutes in any direction and soon stumble upon rows of vines ready to enjoy a vineyard lunch.

I push my finger against the slightly steamy bus window, tracing saw-toothed mountains meeting a star-lit sky. On any other evening, the darkness would make these extremes indistinguishable. But tonight, flickers of pumpkin-hued flames acted as my guide.

For one evening every June, Tyrol resuscitates its centuries-old tradition of Kreidfeuer – chalk fires atop the Eastern Alps. Shapes of falcons, crosses and other emblems blaze bright across the valley, celebrating the arrival of midsummer rather than their former warning of adversaries. Like beacons on a runway, they ushered us onwards – mountain markers leading from the still countryside to city sprawl.

Stepping down from the coach, I shake off the striking yet long journey through Switzerland’s vines, lakes, and now oil lanterns. Midnight had already passed, and the solstice loomed ever closer. Somewhere above the city, hidden away in Austria’s Nordkette range, bonfires would still be searing, and steins overflowing.

By daybreak, the scent of smoke would be long gone, and Innsbruck’s summer would slip in at first light.

Terraces and towers

If the Stadtturm were to be the lowest of the summer highs I’d experience in Innsbruck, I knew the city was establishing up some seriously elevated expectations.

From the City’s Tower, a 51-metre tall 1450s structure, a true 360-degree pop-up book panorama encircled me – the city’s highlights all seemingly close enough to reach out and touch. Shimmering below, the Goldenes Dachl – a landmark fresco-adorned fantasy topped with copper-gilded tiles – dominates a small square. Across the cobbles, the ornate facade of the Baroque Helblinghaus tries to compete for my attention.

Behind, the green-domed copper roofs of the Imperial Palace accidentally blend in with the verdant mountain slope, while Maria-Theresien-Straße – named after the archduchess who adored this Austrian city – snakes in the opposite direction. From the Town Square, with its grand, pastel-hued buildings, to the Triumphal Arch, Maria’s Rome-inspired marble-clad memorial, this avenue forms the artery of the Altstadt. Beyond, the hill-topping Bergisel stands tall, a year-round reminder of Innsbruck’s sporting pulse.

But my eyes can’t stay focused on the ground level for long, and the ever presence of the peaks pulls them upwards. Innsbruck isn’t a city in the mountains; rather, the mountains are in the city. Wherever you are, you feel cocooned and humbled by their soaring faces. I close my eyes and imagine the city coated in winter snow, seeing a caricature of a Christmas card. When I open them, summer comes firmly back into view; there’s little more than a sprinkling of icing sugar atop the jagged giants today.

Taking my cue from the call of the church bells – there had been no need to rise early on the longest day of the year – I searched for a typical Tyrolean lunch. The sun might not lend itself to hearty winter dishes, but a traditional Gröstl (diced potatoes and meat topped with an egg) would perfectly accompany the first beer of summer.

With Sunday afternoon sunlight coating the streets, the terraces overflowed with plates, pints and people; postcard-perfect timber-beamed cafes were serving up serious ice cream; and locals clad in their breeziest of summer attire linger around the main town square soaking it all up. That’s not to say the city was crowded – Innsbruck’s main season is during the winter ski months – but merely making the most of these sunshine-soaked high spirits.

Slipping into my temporary home, the Stage 12 Hotel, and ignoring the temptation of the top-floor sauna, I grabbed a couple more layers. It might be summer in Innsbruck’s pretty side streets, but far above the city,a much wilder and almost winter-like landscape awaited.

Alps open to all

Stepping off the Hungerburgbahn funicular at its namesake station, I was adamant I was in the wrong place. This all seemed to be far too easy.

From here, the promised peaks were just eight minutes away, courtesy of the Nordkettenbahnen cable car. Then, after a few moments more on a second lift, I would find the summit at Hafelekar. Ten minutes before, I’d been amongst city centre stores and churches, and in just ten more, I would apparently be approaching Innsbruck’s highest point – these Austrians don’t mess around with their mountain accessibility.

The first stop of any journey up the Nordkette (Northern Range) is the Seegrube station. Stepping out from the glass box, Innsbruck’s summer started to fade, a cooling breeze riding on the winds, as were the paragliders high above.

At the mountain restaurant, tables were in demand. Families, older folks, and out-of-breath climbers from the Via Ferrata were recharging with hearty plates, while those with just beers or Hugos – an elderflower and prosecco cocktail – sat around the final embers of last night’s fires. It seemed like everyone was there, and the cable car’s accessibility created an open-to-all atmosphere. The easy-to-amble Path of Perspectives, with its jutting-out platforms, provides a non-intense trail for those who don’t want to go any further.

But I had my sights set on the summit, so I dutifully waited for the second car to the final station. It only took two minutes, but the temperature and landscape shifts were almost seismic.

Here, far above the city, it felt like the two faces of Innsbruck were having their standoff. In the distance, the mint-green River Inn cut through the Old Town’s core, a mere summer speck in the valley below. Behind me, the rugged Karwendel mountains, still in part wearing their snow coat, seemed to roar. This scene wasn’t winter, nor was it summer; it was simply one of the Eastern Alps’ ever-changing expressions.

To my right, a steep but short trail led to the Hafelekar Peak, the summit serving as Innsbruck’s highest point, an impressive 2,334 metres. To the left, another restaurant provided refuge, an ice-clad trail emerging around the corner.

This is the gateway to Austria’s largest natural park – no mean feat in a country renowned for being Mother Nature’s canvas – and hiking trails of every level are snuggled in all its conserved corners. But for those who simply want to pause and appreciate, this living Alpine artwork obliges.

Atop Innsbruck, I felt like these heights truly were for all.

Year-round Alpine architecture

In my eagerness to enjoy Innsbruck’s crown, I’d paid little attention to the Alpine stations we’d crossed. The brainchild of the innovative Zaha Hadid, who took inspiration from local ice formations, the perfectly polished and curved roofs of the stations seemingly float, suspended against the backdrop of the leafy inclines.

Even the Hungerburgbahn itself is a nifty forte of design; the carriage’s varying heights as it slides up the slope are somewhat of a forward-thinking funicular design.

But the great late architect’s legacy isn’t restricted to transporting mountain goers. Her most famous Innsbruck design is the Bergisel.

Set on the city’s outskirts, at the point where urban sprawl fades, and forests reclaim the story, this soaring tower is a testament to Innsbruck’s true love: skiing. So ingrained is the sport in the city’s psyche that Hadid dedicated herself to designing a tower that wasn’t just flawless in its presentation but also allowed an audience to appreciate the skills of daredevils from all angles.

The stadium, dating back to the 1930s, was part of the city long before being rebuilt for the 1964 Winter Olympics. Hadid’s ski jump came much later, but its legacy is equally timeless.

If you’re wondering how to get a taste of Innsbruck’s ski season in summer, this tower is your calling. Early morning or mid-afternoon, these adrenaline-chasing athletes will leave you in awe, either from the viewing platform or the cosy glass-fronted restaurant. With a sense of astonishment and a shot of espresso, I found myself pressed up against the glass once more, this time tracing the steep jumpers’ slope in disbelief.

A ticket to the trails

The following morning, after a night of summer celebrations along the riverside—the pastel-hued townhouses of the Mariahilf District seemed to be the locals’ preferred backdrop for al fresco evenings—I was itching to be back amongst the mountains.

Today, my peak of choice was Patscherkofel, the little sister who stands across the valley from the Nordkette.

Flashing my Innsbruck card – the almost all-inclusive ticket to the city and Eastern Alps – to the bus driver, I set off for the included cable car. Passing through Igls, which I imagine is what I’d paint if tasked with depicting an Alpine village, the journey to the mountain’s base was as seamless and scenic as the ride to the top.

Once at 2,000 metres, my intention of tackling the trails ebbed away. Instead, I found introspection in the Alpine Botanical Garden and reflection on the restaurant’s terrace.

I was reminded of the lessons from my favourite hike in Austria, the Asitz Mountain, where the slopes had taught me Alpine health is as much about doing nothing as strapping on those hiking boots.

Midsummer museums

It’s hard to describe, but Innsbruck in summer just feels like a city made for hikers. Even some of the green crossing lights are embellished with backpack-wearing walkers.

Though, of course, it’s equally a cultured city break, and I honestly believe you could come here and just admire the mountains from afar, never setting foot on a slope, and still thoroughly enjoy your time.

Perhaps, museums and churches aren’t top of the list of things to do in Innsbruck on a sunny day, but like in the country’s other great cities – Vienna, Salzburg and Graz – it would be criminal to miss all of the nation’s classical heritage.

That’s how I spent my penultimate day in the city’s cultural attractions, hopping between the highlights, each filling in a little bit more of Innsbruck’s story.

Starting in the Hofburg, the Habsburg’s hulking palace in the city’s heart, I traced Innsbruck’s imperial routes. This may have been the residence of Emperor Maximillian, but it’s Maria Theresa’s stamp you mainly see today. Across the street, the 16th-century Hofkirche (Court Church) is equally imposing. Home to Emperor Maximilian’s tomb, statues of his family line the central nave.

But it was in the Tyrolean Folk Art Museum where I found the most answers, and it’s the space I’d deem most worthy of sacrificing a few inside hours of Innsbruck’s summer for. Across multiple floors, the region’s traditional clothes, toys, furniture, and ceramics are displayed, and the reconstructed rooms from typical Tyrolean homes tell the tales of bygone times.

Tyrol’s summer tales continue

While my short but sweet summer holiday in Austria was soon to end, the highs certainly didn’t have to. My final day was a whirlwind of visits, stopping off at the medieval Old Town of Hall in Tirol, marvelling at the whimsical sight of Swarovski Kristallwelten, and touring the majestic Ambras Palace, where portrait galleries and grand halls convene.

By the time I boarded my onward train, I knew that Innsbruck in summer was indeed an underrated European city. With plenty more of Tyrol’s tales left unexplored – such as the turquoise fringes of Lake Achensee, the river-topping Kufstein Fortress, and Austria’s second-largest glacier, the Kaunertal – I also knew I’d be back for another summer sampling someday.

But the real story of summer in Innsbruck isn’t Emperors and Emeralds, nor how the city meets the mountains in a mere 30 minutes, but rather how these Alps are accessible and open to all.

Nowhere before have I witnessed such a spectrum of people – whether they be visiting with boots, buggy, walking stick or wheelchair – relishing the peaks.

Forget finger tracing from afar; there’s a figurative and literal high here that anyone can hold in their hand, one which will burn long after the Kreidfeuer’s last flames have extinguished.

Edinburgh is one of the most spectacular and storied cities in the world. Between its history, the warmth of the Scottish people, the grand architecture and the ever-increasing creative scene, it’s a true rival to London for your UK visit. Better still, this is one of the most creative cities in the world, hosting multiple cultural festivals throughout the year.

Most people know about the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, of course. But there are actually eleven major festivals held throughout the year, alongside plenty of smaller and equally fascinating events. So, if you are planning a visit to Edinburgh, try to time your trip to catch one.

1.Edinburgh International Science Festival

30th March 2024 – 14th April 2024

The annual calendar starts with one of Europe’s largest Science Festivals, which has workshops, performances, screenings and exhibitions for all ages. Whether you want to keep the kids entertained, are a technical buff or just want to learn about cutting-edge technologies, this two-week event is a great place to do so.

This year, they will also be running GastroFest, a foodie festival that focuses on the link between food and science. It includes cocktail-making classes and unique dining experiences.

2.Edinburgh International Childrens Festival

25th May 2024 – 2nd June 2024

The great thing about the Edinburgh Festival calendar is that it really caters to all ages and interests in the arts. Geared up, especially for children and young people, this event showcases talent from around the world. Theatre, Dance, and Music are all represented, so if you have a child with an interest in the arts, this is a must-do.

3.Edinburgh Jazz & Blues Festival

12th July 2024 – 21st July 2024

If you have an ear for the smooth sounds of Jazz, then grab yourself a ticket to this July event. From rock through to Samba and soul, and with many free open-air concerts (weather permitting), you can hear both old and respected talent and newcomers at over 150 different gigs throughout the city.

4.Edinburgh Festival Fringe

2nd August 2024 – 26th August 2024

The Edinburgh Fringe Festival is likely the one you have heard of. Taking over underground pub basements, theatre venues, the Royal Mile and pretty much anywhere someone can call a performance space.

While some of these shows are free, a donation at the end is always appreciated. The sheer scale and volume of performances that are put on each year, allowing new talent to be exposed, are what makes this festival so unique. Wherever you are into magic, comedy, interactive theatre or more traditional performances, you will find something to enjoy in the big fat guidebook, and then just rock up 30 minutes before the show starts.

5.The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo

2nd August 2024 – 24th August 2024

This show blew my mind, and if you splurge on one thing during your summer visit, make it The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. With an impressive fireworks show, army bands from around the world and a great vibe, this outdoor spectacle is set against the backdrop of Edinburgh Castle.

6.Edinburgh International Festival

2nd August 2024 – 25th August 2024

The International Festival runs alongside the Fringe, but many of the shows are ticketed and curated rather than free. This year, it featured a star-studded lineup, including Alan Cummings. Each year, the programme varies, so check out their website in advance. Unlike the Fringe, it is advisable to book tickets prior to arrival.

7.Edinburgh Art Festival

9th August 2024 -25th August 2024

August is when the magic really kicks off in Edinburgh, with four festivals running alongside each other. The Edinburgh Art Festival isn’t restricted to classics in galleries but takes over the whole city and even some of the country towns beyond.

With modern art in underground passages, walking tours of installations, and some exclusive artist-run spaces, this gives a brilliant platform for all kinds of art to be presented. When I was walking through the city, I was amazed at how much had just been dotted around for anyone to see for free.

8.Edinburgh International Book Festival

10th August 2024 – 25h Augst 2024

A book festival? It might sound a little dull, but this huge garden and tented area does a lot more than just retail paperbacks.

With daily talks, Q&A’s with writers and workshops for all ages, if you like to get lost in the pages, this is a great place to pick up some new reads and discover new authors. Some of the talks are paid, but entry to the area itself is free (as is book browsing).

9.Edinburgh International Film Festival

15th August 2024 – 21st August 2024

The Film Festival is famous worldwide for its impact on filmmaking on a global scale. With some groundbreaking documentaries, short films, and unique cinema styles on offer, this is an awesome event to see upcoming talent really taking the stage.

10.Scottish International Storytelling Festival

18th October 2024 – 31st October 2024

As a writer in a world where fewer and fewer people read to be moved and just concentrate on facts, the Storytelling festival is a real treat. With local and international names sharing tales, songs, and poems, it is a true celebration of everything so important about the written word and keeps the magic of these stories alive.

11.Edinburgh’s Hogmanay

29th December 2024 – 1st January 2024

If you want a unique New Year’s Eve, look no further than Edinburgh’s three-day Hogmanay celebrations taking over the whole city.

With nonstop entertainment, the famous Shetland Vikings fire-lit torch procession, the buzzing Christmas markets, and, of course, the fireworks, this is one party that rings in a new year with style and is worthy of a spot on your bucket list.

Where else in the world is better to sing Auld Lang Syne at midnight?

EDINBURGH BASICS

Accommodation can jump hugely in price during the Festival season, so advance booking is a great idea. Here are two options I tested out that don’t need to cost a bomb. If you plan to explore more of the country, check out these unusual places to stay in Scotland.

SYHA Edinburgh Metro Hostel: Don’t panic! This isn’t your typical dorm hostel. During the summer months, this University city hands many of its campus flats over to the SYHA to manage, which means you can score your own room (shared bathroom) within a flat right in the heart of the city for around £50 a night, which given how expensive hotels can jump is a great option. For me, it was better than a hostel as you still get a private room with plenty of space, your own wardrobe and desk, and access to the flat kitchen, so you don’t have to eat out every day.

Motel One: There are two of these chic, German-based hotels in the city offering really chic designed rooms at a lower price than most boutique hotels. Don’t let the Motel name fool you, with plush bedding, designer features, amazing showers and a great breakfast buffet this is much more of a 4* hotel experience than a motel. Rooms start from £59 a night during the off-season but can rise higher, especially if booked last minute before the festival.

HOW TO GET THERE?

By Train: If you are already starting your journey in the UK, then a train might be the best way to get up here. Our trains can be expensive and packed, but if you book in advance, you can usually score a good price and get a seat reservation (try and go for one with a table for a charger, as it could be a long ride). I love using The Train Line as a starting point for finding great fares.

By Air: Edinburgh has a great airport located not far from the city, and there is also an airport in Glasgow. Both serve International routes as far as Asia with both budget and legacy carries.

I might be biased, but the Dorset coast is one of the best places you can visit in England, and indeed the UK. Being my childhood home, I’m ashamed to say it took me nearly thirty years to take a road trip along the entire 95-mile-long Jurassic Coast, but it was absolutely worth the wait. From pre-historic fossils to beaches so beautiful you wouldn’t believe they are in Britain, this is one of the best coastal getaways (or multi-day hikes) in the country.

The Jurassic Coast gets its name thanks to the 185 million years of history imprinted into the towering cliffs along the coastline. Long before towels and parasols dotted this coastline, Dinasaours were leaving their lasting impressions. Even now, you can occasionally still find fossils from the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods while taking a stroll along the beach. Recently, fossils from mammals dating back 145 million years were discovered.

Beyond the mind-boggling discoveries in museums, you’ll be spoiled with shimmering shorelines, proper coastal pubs, fish and chips, and ample ambling coastal trails. All in, this is a top-notch three day road trip in Dorset. Or you can bundle it together with more of the best places in South West England for a longer seaside holiday.

How to get to the Jurassic Coast

From London (or other parts of the UK) you can arrive by train to Poole, Bournemouth or Weymouth. All three are good starting points to explore the coastline. Some European airlines fly into Bournemouth and Southampton, or it’s just a few hours by coach from the main London Airports.

How to explore the Jurassic Coast

While you can see a fair bit of the Jurassic Coast using a mixture of trains and busses, not only does this quickly get costly, but it will also be harder to visit some of the most scenic spots and limit your options for times. I’d recommend hiring a car to maximise time and have a true Jurassic Coast road trip. Keep in mind that this isn’t a fully coastal-hugging road trip. You will be mainly using country roads, taking detours down lanes to reach the coastal spots.

Be warned: parking is usually not free in Dorset, so you’ll need to carry about £20 of change with you for this road trip or use the parking apps where required. For this, an eSIM might be handy if you’re travelling from abroad.

Where to stay on the Jurassic Coast

Good starting points are in Poole or Bournemouth, where you can pick a car rental to begin your road trip. There is a whole host of accommodations across the Dorset and Devon coasts, ranging from small BnBs to larger chain hotels. If you are travelling as a family or group, consider booking a cottage along the Jurassic Coast. Expect prices to rocket and availability to be low during the summer months.

For a more affordable option, check out Travel Lodges (a chain in the UK), which has some hotels at the start and end of the route. You can usually save even more money by getting a Travel Lodge voucher code, as they don’t usually have rooms bookable on the major OTAs.

Jurassic Coast Road Trip Itinerary: Stops En Route

Swanage

After driving from either Bournemouth (my hometown) or Poole, take the Sandbanks ferry across to Studland Bay, where the Jurassic Coast official begins in Studland Bay. Your first after Studland will be Swanage. This is one of the larger towns along the coast, and the sweeping arc of shoreline is the perfect place to get your first ice cream or fish and chips lunch on the beach. Think deck chairs and quintessentially British seaside escapes, and you’ll be spot on with expectations.

Nearby, Chapman’s Pool Beach is one of the wilder and more secluded swimming spots along Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. This means no lifeguards and a step narrow access path, but if you don’t mind, you’ll be rewarded once you reach the waters.

Durlston Country Park and Museum

This vast 320-acre nature reserve stretches all along the Isle of Purbeck just beyond Swanage and is included in the Jurassic Coast’s UNESCO Heritage Site. There is a small museum inside the castle, but enjoying a hike along the coastal cliffs towards the lighthouses beats being inside.

Corfe Castle

Take a little detour inland to visit Corfe Castle. The ruins of this fortification stand above the village of the same name, which has a handful of pubs and small tea houses, perfect for an afternoon tea with scones, cream and jam. The old defensive castle, which dates from Roman times, is one of the most popular National Trust sites in the country.

Kimmeridge Bay

This tiny fishing village is actually on private land. This means you must pay an entrance/parking fee to drive down here. The rocks stretch out into the water, and it’s one of the most popular spots to look for fossils on the beach, thanks to the continual erosion of the cliffs here. While many people do skip Kimmeridge because of the cost and it being a little bit of a detour, it is one of my favourite beautiful places to spend a few hours along the Jurrasic Coast.

The Etches Collection museum nearby houses some of the more significant and more impressive fossil findings from the bay. While it’s certainly interesting, you’ll want to factor in the £9 entrance fee and consider if you’d prefer to go to the more extensive and slightly lower-priced museum in Lyme Regis instead.

Lulworth Cove

One of the Jurrasic Coast’s most famous locations and photo spots, Lulworth Cove is the perfect place to park up and enjoy a swim on the pebble beach, followed by lunch in a traditional stone-built pub. Afterwards, take the short one-mile walk along the cliffs to Durdle Door – without a doubt, the ‘poster child’ of this region.

Man O’War Beach & Durdle Door

The water at Man O’War looks more like the Med than England on a decent day, making it one of the best beach destinations in the country. This means the beaches can be crowded in summer when everyone descends to Dorset to visit one of the most famed spots on the Jurassic Coast.

Durdle Door itself, an impressive limestone arch that reaches into the sea, attracts droves of photographers. It’s not just because of its dramatic location but also because of the pretty bay backed by white cliffs. Expect to spend a good few hours here, although the crowds can be intense in Summer as it’s a popular UK staycation destination.

Isle of Portland

The Isle of Portland gained some international fame as Great Britain hosted part of the Olympics here in 2012. This was the location where many of the UK’s water adventure activities competed.

The limestone island juts out from the mainland with a spectacular arc of sand. From the top of the hill, the views are even more impressive. This is technically the most southern point of Dorset, and on a clear day, you can see for miles. There’s not much to visit in the town, so this is more of a beach and views stop.

Abbotsbury Swannery

Did you know that the King owns all the swans in England?

Take a little detour to the Abbotsbury Swannery, and you can see hundreds of these beautiful white animals relaxing atop little lakes as you walk the shaded path. You’ll need to pay to get in, but it’s also a good place to spot various other bird life which thrives along the Jurrasic Coast.

Weymouth

One of the biggest towns in the region, Weymouth, has spruced itself up in the last few years. It’s a pretty decent place to overnight. There’s the pretty side of the town, with cute canals and colourful houses, and then a slightly more grim centre that still needs a bit more TLC. In July, with the Weymouth Festival in full swing, the town is a cracking place to be for some sunny pints.

Charmouth

By far the best location for fossil hunting, often people will just be walking along the beach when they spot and pick up pre-historic fossils for themselves. A little museum and gift shop will fill you in on more details about the region’s fossil history. The beach itself isn’t the best for relaxing and sunbathing. However, the impressive cliffs and chance to find your own Ammonites or Belemnites make Charmouth a must-visit.

Lyme Regis

In the far reaches of West Dorset, not far from the Devon border, Lyme Regis is about as dreamy as the British seaside gets. With plenty of quirky and cosy pubs, seaside cafes, relatively still swimming conditions in the bay and a host of pastel-shaded houses, it is a popular spot for UK families to have a summer getaway. Often nicknamed ‘The Pearl of Dorset’, you’ll quickly see why this is regarded as one of the stars along the Jurrasic Coast.

The famous fossil collector Mary Anning hails from Lyme Regis. Visit the geology-focused Lyme Regis Museum and the impressive fossil collection at Dinosaurland for further insight. Spend a night here before speeding back to your starting point in Dorset or continuing on to Devon’s section of the Jurassic Coast.

Seaton and on to Devon or Cornwall…

Seaton is another seaside town with a fair few amenities and your gateway to continue to Devon or even as far as Cornwall.

If you want to cover the whole of the Jurassic Coast, it stretches from Studland Bay in Dorset to Exmouth in East Devon. If you keep driving, you’ll find some other beautiful spots along this 100-mile of coastline in the park.

Whichever part of the Jurassic Coast you explore, you won’t be disappointed; just make sure not to miss my fantastic home county when planning your visit to England, as it’s truly one of the best – if slightly chillier – beach destinations in Europe.

Bon Bini means welcome in Papiamento — one of Aruba‘s two official languages — and not only will you hear these warm words frequently, but you’ll genuinely feel them. This friendly, laid-back energy is perhaps the best reason to visit Aruba, surpassing even the island’s soft-white crushed coral sands. ‘One Happy Island’ might be a marketing phrase, yet unlike most taglines, this one is no exaggeration.

I absolutely adored my one week visit to Aruba, and even though the bath-like waters and swathes of soothing sand are arguably the main draw, they are far from the sole reason why Aruba is worth visiting. Adventures await in the forms of water sports and arid inland national park explorations; culture pulsates through independent artisan stores, Arawak cave drawings, and around the mural-heavy streets in San Nicolas, and the annual carnival celebration provides one of the Caribbean’s best celebrations.

If you’re still on the fence about which Caribbean destination is best for you, allow me to fight the corner of this pocket-sized island and share my top reasons to visit Aruba.

The headliner: beeline-worthy beaches

It’s a given that the reason most people visit Aruba is for the star attraction: incredible beaches. And boy, are these shores irresistible. No matter if you’re seeking sun-kissed sands backed by atmospheric beach bars or more serene, secluded mangrove-enveloped bays, the island’s coast, does not disappoint.

Having been to a few different Caribbean islands now, the beaches in Aruba have been by far my favourite. The sand is delightfully soft and white due to the crushed corals, the beachfront can stretch as far as the eye can see, and unlike Jamaica, for example, every one of them is free and open to all. This is especially great as you can take long walks along the shoreline without having to come inland to get around a private resort.

A couple of my favourites include pristine and peaceful Mangel Halto, a little below the capital city, and Arashi Beach, where I snorkelled with turtles. Beyond the California Lighthouse, the northern sand dunes are equally magical. Even the main resort destination of Palm Beach felt pretty relaxing, and as the ‘high-rise’ section is minimal and well-managed, you never feel like you are lounging in front of a concrete jungle of resorts.

Year-round dreamy temperatures

Aruba sits just below the hurricane belt, making it a safe year-round destination and one of the best islands to visit in the region. It can’t be overstated enough why this is one of the major reasons to visit Aruba, as safety — especially if travelling with kids — is as important as sunny.

Even though rainfall and some storms can occur between September and December, the warm temperatures remain for the whole year (except between mid-high 20c on average). Showers are often short, meaning it’s a destination you can plan to visit anytime, including when there are offseason deals.

That warm Aruba welcome

Something I’ll always wax lyrically about is the warm welcome I experience in Aruba. From the serenades of the airport band on arrival to the insightful conversations about local life I shared with many Arubans I encountered, this island just feels like a place where you can let your guard down.

Ever-growing environmental credentials

Aruba’s ongoing work and commitment to being more environmentally friendly is well documented, with the end goal of becoming a true ecotourism destination. Plenty of commendable initiatives for a country of this size are being implemented, with the target goal of a transition to 100 per cent renewable energy being the desired endpoint. The tap water is also safe to drink thanks to a decent desalination plant.

In addition, a total ban on single-use plastics came into force in late 2022, and you’ll want to research the best reef safe sunscreens to pack (they often cost more on the island), as those that contain reef-damaging oxybenzone were also banned a few years back. Protection of the reefs is paramount, so supporting this step is really important. You’ll also find a growing number of eco-certified accommodation offerings across the island.

Adventures in Arikok National Park

Inland, Aruba’s landscape provides a stark contrast to the developed coast. Nowhere is that truer than the arid inland section of Arikok National Park, which shifts from scrub and cave-defined landscapes to roaring waves and footprint-free bays. Covering around 20% of the island, the national park is part ecotourism destination and part reserved for research.

Hiking and bike trails provide a sustainable alternative to exploring by 4WD, and you can easily spend a full day or more in the park. Visit the Quadirikiri and Fontein Caves, where sunlight streams through natural skylights, illuminating cave paintings from the island’s earliest inhabitants, the Caquetio.

Outside, tackle the trails through craggy and cacti-consumed scenery before relaxing on remote Dos Playa beach. But this cerulean-hued coastline isn’t just for admiring; natural swimming pools offer wild bathing not far from a protected turtle nesting spot. Arikok might not be your typical Caribbean landscape, but it’s certainly reason enough to visit Aruba.

Water sports and scuba diving

Want a key reason why you should visit Aruba? Water sports. This island’s famed sands and lapping waves offer plenty of beachside relaxation, but those with restless sandy feet can indulge in a plethora of options, from SUP on calm waters to kitesurfing the windswept coast. Most of the popular beaches along the coast have plenty of boards and equipment for hire, and the prices were pretty reasonable for the Caribbean.

Beyond the shoreline, there are multiple shipwrecks which have created the most compelling reason to visit Aruba for scuba divers or those who wish to get their scuba diving certification. Sure, the deep wreck dives — there’s even a sunken aeroplane — might not be for beginners, but the warm, calm and clear waters make it a great place for learner divers. Don’t miss the mighty USS Antilla shipwreck — the largest wreck dive in the Caribbean — or any of Aruba’s other best diving spots.

Stargazing away from the resorts

Aruba is perhaps not known as a star-gazing destination, but don’t let that put you off from heading outside to admire the night sky. Honestly, I was pretty surprised and impressed by how the light pollution of the resorts quickly fades, giving way to some wonderful constellations viewing opportunities.

In and around Arikok National Park, you’ll find some of the best conditions — although parts of the park have restricted entry by night. If you have a car, or ideally a 4WD, you’ll be able to easily head off and find some fantastic vantage spots and see the night sky awash with stars.

The colourful capital of Oranjestad

Aruba’s capital city, Oranjestad, is sprinkled with splashy colonial buildings — the island was colonized by the Dutch (amongst others) and, indeed, still remains a country within the Kingdom of the Netherlands — in various pastel hues and even neon shades that would make the Barbie set blush. This makes it a colourful and photogenic first and last stop on the island.

It’s very much a safe, walkable city to explore, but even still, a colourful free tram service runs throughout the town so that you can get around even easier; it is worth jumping on for the novelty alone. Visit during the day for strolls and visits to cultural institutions and the archaeological museum, but also at night for walking tours and enjoying local dishes. There’s plenty of evening entertainment, from live music in the restaurants to late-night bars.

While there are plenty of the shops you would expect at a popular cruise destination, such as high-end designer boutiques, there are still plenty of local stores and artisan shops away from the front-line ocean malls — the Casa di Culture community art centre, and BAZ RRR Gallery, being great places to buy local souvenirs.

Culture, carnival and creativity in San Nicolas

The annual carnival celebrations are reason enough to visit Aruba. It’s more than just a big deal here, with the carnival celebrations lasting over a month. Starting in January and ending with the biggest parades taking place the week before Ash Wednesday in February, this is an excellent time of year to visit.

Still, if you aren’t lucky enough to time your visit to Aruba with the carnival, fear not, as the cultural hub and southern city of San Nicolas provides plenty of colour and art instead. Once an almost no-go area for tourists, the second city of San Nicolas has enjoyed a huge revitalisation in recent years. Street art and murals from local and international creatives now adorn walls, buildings and squares, while a museum dedicated to carnival and an art space can also be found here.

Take a walking tour around the city with a local guide, and try to visit one of the pop-up ‘mini carnival’ events with live music, street dancing, and great local food — this was absolutely a highlight of my visit to Aruba.

Aloe farms and luxury pampering

Aruba Aloe is a whole industry in itself, transforming the island’s abundance of this now-revered plant into luxury creams, gels and other products — the lip balm with a coconut flavour is always in my travel bag these days. But it’s nothing new, as Aruba Aloe claims the title of the oldest Aloe company in the world,

While a tour around the Aloe farm and factory is possible, it’s likely best to appreciate this plant’s healing properties via a spa treatment and a bit of pampering.

Most high-end and middle-range hotels in Aruba have a spa offering, with options such as beach-side massages and rejuvenating treatments popular. It’s also possible to visit many of these spas with day passes. Okeanos Spa at the Renassaince and Intermezzo Day Spas for their open-air treatments are ones particularly worth booking in advance.

Pocket-sized side trips

Let’s be honest: when it’s hot and you’re in the Caribbean, trekking around all day in the heat, ticking off lots of different attractions, is far from appealing. Thankfully, Aruba’s handkerchief size (around 70 square miles) means you’re never far from one of those alluring beaches. As such, bite-size and half-day trips to the island’s attractions are not overwhelming and can easily be paired with a lazy afternoon on the beach.

An array of cuisine

Like Aruba’s languages — two official, Papiamento and Dutch, and two unofficial yet spoken by many, Spanish and English — the island’s cuisine is equally as diverse, taking inspiration from across the globe. Typical American dinner dishes are found alongside Dutch, Indonesian and Creole cuisine on menus, while local rums and even the island’s first boutique winery make for perfect pairings. Whether it’s typical fast food, dining in luxury resorts, or picnic poke bowls on the beach, you can find pretty much anything, ranging from cheap street food to super expensive and exclusive options.

That said, there are still plenty of local dishes well worth sampling, such as pan bati (sweet flat-bread) and warming stews, like kabritu stoba (goat) and keri keri (fish), being two of the most popular.

To get a bite-size introduction to both the history of the island and the multi-cultural foodie offering, join one of the fantastic Aruba Walking Tours around Oranjestad, which includes stops at local restaurants for the price of a sampling of various dishes. Oh, and don’t forget to add a splash of Hot Delight’s Madam sauce for a spicy kick.

Ideal for everyone

Lastly, and often the most appealing reason to visit Aruba, is how the island attracts and welcomes such a broad spectrum of travellers. Whether it’s a trip with your mates, a romantic getaway as a couple, or an extended family vacation, Aruba is sure to please.

The climate is pleasant, yet not too hot. The beaches are lazy-heaven, while those who want to hike or have adventures can do so. You can book upscale resorts, private apartments or more budget stays. And the food scene covers pretty much anything, even for the fussiest of eaters.

As such, I really do think it’s a safe bet as a holiday destination for anyone. There is literally nothing not to like, which is rare for me to say of a place. And while other islands in the Caribbean dazzled me in different ways, such as the lush green hiking of Dominica or the seemingly never-ending beaches in Antigua and Barbuda, they didn’t seem to tick as many boxes or offer such a crowd-pleasing array of options.

So, if you are looking for an easy, relaxing and, most importantly, happy island escape, I hope these reasons to visit Aruba have helped cement the island’s place in your Caribbean wishlist — perhaps you’ll be hearing bon bini yourself soon.

With its canal-crossed districts, countless cultural attractions, world-class museums, and abundance of contemporary architecture, Copenhagen has cemented its reputation as one of Europe’s chicest city breaks. But with so many choices of things to do, see and experience, how should you spend your weekend in Copenhagen?

Having just returned from my third visit to the city, I’ve got some thoughts, and they might not align with all the ‘best things to do in Copenhagen’ lists — Tivoli and the Little Mermaid, for example, are not really worth your time, in my opinion. And given how pricey some of the city’s attractions are , you’ll want to ensure you’re getting the most out of your two days in Copenhagen.

With that in mind, here’s how I would propose spending a weekend in Copenhagen, planned out as a two-day itinerary. If you’re planning to enjoy a long weekend in the city, you’ll also find some suggestions for more things to do in Copenhagen and nearby day trips to extend your visit.

Things to do in Copenhagen: Your Weekend Guide

Arrival: Friday night

My suggestions for this weekend in Copenhagen itinerary are based on a Friday evening arrival and late Sunday departure and, therefore, align with the various attractions’ opening hours; however, it’s always best to check closing times or which days attractions might be shuttered — many museums are closed on Mondays.

Check-in: Where to stay in Copenhagen

Once you’ve landed and taken the fast and affordable train into the city, dump your bags at your hotel and head straight out. If you’re still deciding where to stay in Copenhagen, here are a few suggestions.

Affordable and atmospheric – Next House

On my most recent visit to Copenhagen, I stayed at Next House, one of many ‘new generation’ hotel-level-hostels that are cropping up across the city. The place is huge, meaning that it’s suitable for all types of travellers: families, couples, or backpackers looking for an affordable stay. This is also evident in the room choices, as they have dorms (each with its own bathroom), bookable by bunk (pod style for a bit more privacy) or entirely if you want the room for private use. There are also private double rooms at very fair prices for Copenhagen. The rooftop terrace has a seasonal bar, there’s a kitchen if you want to go self-catering, and a couple of bars that (unlike most in the city) won’t break the bank.

But best of all, they have heaps of other spaces you can utilise: a restaurant which serves a decent buffet breakfast or evening pizza buffet, a football and gym area, and plenty of lounge space to relax. If you’re a solo traveller, you can join one of the dinners specifically aimed at solos to meet others or join one of their guided tours. It might have those important hostel facilities, but overall, it feels much more like an atmospheric hotel.

Iconic splurge – ​​Nimb Hotel

While I would never consider coughing up the crazy prices for even a night at Nimes, those seeking an iconic Copenhagen experience and who have money to spare may want to splurge and sleep at the fairytale-looking Nimb Hotel located inside Tivoli Gardens. It’s got all the luxury you’d expect, with a spa, rooftop pools and chic rooms, but is it worth the price? I’ll let you decide.

Boutique pick – Bryggen Guldsmeden

Billed as an ‘Urban Eco Resort’, Bryggen Guldsmeden is not what you’d expect to find in Copenhagen’s former industrial harbour. There’s a gorgeous pool and courtyard, airy and trendy rooms, and plenty of colourful statements around this Bali-influenced boutique stay, especially ideal for a summer weekend visit to Copenhagen.

Friday night: Orientation walk and dinner

Start your Copenhagen itinerary with a stroll down Strøget, the city’s main pedestrian thoroughfare to historic Nyhavn. This 17th-century colourful canal is at the heart of the city, and although touristy, you might want to grab a cocktail on one of the terraces here. However, you get the best views from the other side, and prices here are hiked, so to save some Krone, just enjoy the photo opportunities.

For dinner, I’d suggest continuing to the end of Nyhavn (where it joins the main canal, Hønsebroløbet) and crossing the Inderhavnsbroen bridge to the other side. There are two fantastic street food markets ideal for a quick and easy post-flight meal: Reffen (which is my favourite) and slightly more touristy Broens Gadekøkken. However, if you’re visiting in winter, they will be closed — Broens is open for its ice rink instead — so then I’d recommend grabbing a bite at nearby LaLaLa for a warmer but still delicious alternative.

What to do in Copenhagen on day one (Saturday)

After eating breakfast at your hotel or grabbing a Kanelsnegle (cinnamon bun) on the go, start early to make the most of your weekend in Copenhagen.

When working out how to make the most of your Copenhagen itinerary and budget, you have two decisions. Firstly, is it worth getting the Copenhagen Card? This depends on how many attractions you plan to visit because they can quickly add up. Still, the card is only worthwhile if you’re planning to see a few things, and the website has a helpful calculator to determine how beneficial the savings will be.

Secondly, deciding how you want to get around the city. While many people recommend hiring a bike ‘like the locals do,’ I honestly believe it’s nicer to explore Copenhagen on foot, as you save cash, don’t need to faff parking, and can go slower, which isn’t always easy on a bike as locals are cycling from A to B in the dedicated lanes, not taking a scenic sightseeing tour. If you’ve opted to get the Copenhagen Card, you’ll have public transport included anyway.

Morning: Museums and modern art

If you’ve only got two days in Copenhagen, you need to be selective about which museums to visit, as the city has an impressive list of over fifty art galleries and museums to choose from, and you don’t want to spend your whole weekend inside. Head to one of the museums early on your first day (most open at 10 am) to try and get in before they get too busy.

If you’re keen to learn more about the history and culture of Copenhagen and Denmark, opt to visit the National Museum of Denmark (Nationalmuseet) or the Museum of Copenhagen. However, I believe the best collections in Copenhagen are in the art museums, so I’d personally recommend choosing one of these. The NY Carlsberg Glyptotek will delight people with a penchant for sculptures. Across town, the Statens Museum for Kunst (SMK), the National Gallery of Denmark, has the best collection of Danish, Nordic and international masters and could keep you entertained for hours.

Another option is to take the train to the out-of-town Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which is regarded as one of the best modern art museums in the world, both for its collection and the architecture which sits alongside the Øresund Sound. But, as impressive as it is, if you only have two days in Copenhagen, this side trip will eat into your day.

Lunch: Sample some smørrebrøds

Most of the major museums in Copenhagen have restaurants or cafes — the one at the SMK has a decent menu — and they often are competitively priced (for Copenhagen) compared to other options. That said, lunch is when you often find the best deals in Copenhagen, with fixed-price menus or all-you-can-eat buffets easier to come by, RizRaz being a good option for vegetarians. If you don’t want anything too heavy, however, save some time and have a quick and easy smørrebrød, the Danish-style open sandwiches served on rye bread and one of the many dishes that make Copenhagen one of the best food cities in Europe. Good options near the museums include Kanal-Caféen, close to the NY Carlsberg Glyptotek (Lillian’s is also highly recommended, but closed on weekends), or Under Uret near the SMK.

Afternoon: Canals, castles and ‘cruises’

Fueled up and ready to continue, it’s time to enjoy the afternoon light on a walk and perhaps even a boat ride along some of Copenhagen’s best canal-hugging sights.

Start at Frederiksholms Kanal, which encircles Slotsholmen Island. Cross over one of the bridges and arrive at Christiansborg Palace. This is one of a few grand palaces you can visit in Copenhagen, so if you fancy it, head inside to see grand halls and art-adorned walls. However, I’d say to just walk through the courtyard, admire the exterior, and visit one of the older palaces, Amalienborg or Rosenborg, tomorrow instead.

On the other side of Frederiksholms Kanal, loop around the Det Kongelige Teater to admire its impressive facade (and perhaps query if any tickets are remaining for tonight’s performance) before heading under the Stærekassen passage around the back; there is a wonderful mosaic ceiling hidden underneath. From here, you’ve returned to Nyhavn, allowing the chance to admire the colourful old buildings in the daylight.

At the end of Nyhavn, turn left and follow the water outside the much more modern Playhouse Theatre and admire the equally contemporary Opera House across the canal. A few moments away, you’ll see some of Copenhagen’s most impressive sights, the Amalienborg Castle and, just behind it, the Frederik’s Church dome soaring.

The Amalienborg is still the royal family’s official residence, and from the inner circular courtyard, you can see the four different palaces which form the complex. Regarded as one of the best things to do in Copenhagen, you can buy a ticket to enter and tour the Great Hall and see some of the Danish crown jewels. After the visit, continue in the same direction to Kastellet, a well-preserved fortress citadel. You can walk around the verdant bastions on either side of the moat, spot a rather photogenic windmill, and even walk inside the courtyard (open until 8 pm). Right by here is one of the most underwhelming famous attractions in the world, The Little Mermaid, so you might as well make your way through any crowds to have a look at this relatively small bronze statue.

To finish today’s Copenhagen itinerary, you could take the Havnebussen (Harbour Bus) back down the canal to see the same route from a different perspective. Being part of the public transport system, it’s a much cheaper alternative to some of the other canal cruises, but be aware the boats can get full, so you may need to wait. Board at the Nordre Toldbod stop (the last boat leaves around 8:20 pm) near the Kastellet and stay onboard until Bryggebroen. On arrival, you’re about a 15-20 minute walk across the bridge from the Meatpacking District, a great place to eat dinner.

Dinner & Drinks: The Meatpacking District (Kødbyen)

Copenhagen’s Kødbyen, also known as the Meatpacking District due to its former purpose, is one of the many parts of the city that have undergone a creative transformation. Now, it’s one of Copenhagen’s most trendy places, packed with excellent restaurants and craft beer breweries. You can choose from pretty much any cuisine you want here, but Fiskebaren is a solid, if pricey, pick if you fancy some first-class seafood. After eating, you can venture to one of the brew pubs for some equally expensive pints (this is Copenhagen, after all) or choose one of the cocktail bars instead.

What to do in Copenhagen on day two (Sunday)

If you’re checking out today, stash your bags after breakfast (if you’re in an Airbnb rather than a hotel, you can store them at the central station or search on a luggage storage travel app like Bounce) and make an early-ish start if you want to witness the changing of the guard ceremony.

Morning: Palaces and parks

If you didn’t visit any of the palaces yesterday, then start today’s Copenhagen itinerary at Kongens Have (The King’s Garden/Rosenborg Garden). The oldest royal gardens in the country, this well-manicured space opens at 7 am, meaning you can have a walk around before entering the adjacent Rosenberg Palace when visiting commences at 10 am. The reason I suggest getting in early is the changing of the guard ceremony commences at 11:30 am. Dating back to the 17th century, Christian IV’s castle is impressive. Inside, you’ll have the chance to see crown jewels, opulent halls and bedrooms and learn more about the Danish monarchy.

An hour and a half should be a good amount of time to complete (a slightly rushed tour), but this will mean you can be outside when the changing of the guard procession starts. The Den Kongelige Livgarde (Royal Guard) depart their barracks at Rosenborg Castle and walk the streets to Amalienborg. As such, you can follow this impressive procession before seeing the grand finale around midday in Amalienborg’s open courtyard. If the group is accompanied by a band and the flag is hoisted, it means the King is at home.

Afternoon: Christiana and contemporary architecture

After grabbing lunch at one of the nearby cafes, finish up your weekend in Copenhagen by seeing a very different side of the city in Freetown Christiania, a commune across the river which was established in a former military barracks by squatters in the 70s. However, in 2012, a formal agreement was made, leading to the residents purchasing the area.

Both times I’ve visited, I’ve had no problems inside Christiania and found it very safe, but you should be aware that this isn’t just another neighbourhood of the city; it operates under its own rules. Reportedly, in recent years, there have been more problems and crime reported around the area, which is why the residents now are much stricter on enforcing their rules for visitors, such as no photography. If you’re not that comfortable visiting alone (not advisable after dark) but still want to see inside this creative and free-spirtied community, locals offer guided tours on the weekend at 15:00 — hence suggesting it as an afternoon activity. No reservation is needed; just be sure to bring the tour fee in cash.

En route there or back, you might also want to visit some of Copenhagen’s more contemporary contrasting architecture by calling in at the Opera House or Royal Library.

Evening: Departure or dinner

If you’re not heading back to the airport to take your flight, be aware that many restaurants close on Sunday evenings, so you might want to plan and book ahead.

Things to do in Copenhagen with a third day (and day trip ideas)

If you’re planning to spend a long weekend in Copenhagen (do check opening hours, as some museums close on Mondays, making Friday a better extension) or you want to swap out one of the activities above, here are a few other ideas of things to do in Copenhagen.

Visit more museums or palaces

Copenhagen has so many excellent museums and numerous palaces to visit that if you’ve invested in the Copenhagen Card, then you should get the most out of it by including a few more during a long weekend trip. As well as those mentioned on the first day of this Copenhagen itinerary, the Designmuseum, Danish Architecture Centre, and The Museum of Danish Resistance are worth a visit. For galleries and art-focused collections, consider the sculptures of Thorvaldsens and the contrast between contemporary art and grand old-world architecture at Kunsthal Charlottenborg.

Tivoli Gardens

One of Copenhagen’s most famous attractions is the historic Tivoli Gardens, a theme park amongst pretty gardens. With theatre shows, dining options (the Tivoli Food Court is actually free and open to all), various imported architecture styles, and some entertaining rides, it could be a good call. Personally, I think it’s a bit overpriced and not really a ‘must visit’ unless you have a specific interest in the park, though special seasonal events can make it more worthwhile.

The Carlsberg Experience

You might have noticed a few museums and sights in Copenhagen come with the name Carlsberg, and it’s because the brewery was founded here in Valby, Copenhagen. The Carlsberg Experience is located in the original brewery and will re-open in December 2023 after some renovation work. For those interested in one of the world’s most famous beers, you can tour interactive experiences on a tour of the historical cellars or just enjoy a tasting.

Go to the Rundetaarn (Round Tower)

Getting to the top of the Rundetaarn involves circling a long ramp, but you’ll get some pretty impressive views from this nearly 400-year-old landmark. Temporary exhibitions are held in some of the halls.

Combine the Louisiana Museum with Helsingor

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which is around 30 minutes from Copenhagen by train, then you could ride another 20 minutes north to the historic city of Helsingør, where a pretty cobbled street, Old Town and the mighty Kronborg Castle await. Ferries also regularly cross to Sweden from here.

Cross the bridge to Malmo in Sweden

The impressive, nearly 16-kilometre Øresund Bridge links Copenhagen with Malmö in Sweden, making it one of the easiest day trips from Copenhagen. Trains are fairly regular, as are (usually) cheaper FlixBuses.

Where to travel after Copenhagen

Other further afield spots worth visiting in Denmark include Ribe, the oldest town in the country, second-city Aarhus, or heading out to one of the smaller islands and archipelagos. Alternatively, continue on a grand tour of the Nordic capitals by spending a few days in Stockholm or visiting Oslo or Helsinki. For a grand adventure, you could take the two-day ferry to the pretty Faroe Islands, a self-governing nation within the Kingdom of Denmark.