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Scanning the carpet of sand, my eyes fixate on a rather stern face. Or is that a look of confusion? Maybe curiosity? No. That’s an unmistakably stern glare – and now he’s walking towards me. Shit. Just smile back sheepishly. Maybe if I make a quick prayer, these unrealistically silky, paper-white sands will swallow me whole.

Eyes locked, I ponder what trespassing laws look like on a speck of land in the Pacific Ocean. I wiggle my toes and push downwards, begging the beach for divine intervention as my mind unhelpfully conjures up images of lost-at-sea floating cells. Surveying the absolutely-not-swaying palms and bath-like waters lapping the coral reefs, I look for backup. Nothing.

My fellow island invaders are nowhere to be seen.

“Are you lost?” he asks, extending his hand for a firm handshake. How do you answer a question like that when you’ve arrived at – what you’re quickly realising might well be – a private island? Oh yeah, mate, sorry, I just took a wrong turn at that turtle back there; my bad.

The irony wasn’t lost on me that it was another firm handshake and a cheeky grin that had got me into this situation. A situation very much of my own making.

You see, a few hours earlier, my friends and I had paddled through the gentle ripples around Nadi’s expensive resorts towards our two new friends: a pair of local fishermen with broad grins and a penchant, it appeared, for helping out cost-cutting backpackers. We settled onto the canary yellow slats on their weathered boat, the engine rumbling, and soon snaked away from the manicured palm trees of the luxury resorts.

Where were we going? No idea. I’d heard fisherman one – the younger chap, with a wicked grin and bucket hat – mention Qalito Island yesterday, and a quick Google had shown me a proper atoll utopia.

But the where wasn’t important. I was certain we were off to some incredible islands, and I hadn’t spent a fortune. Happy days.

Our fishermen’s rendezvous had been planned out the night before. Under a crimson sky and a dreamy sunset – you know, the kind that tropical islands seem to have a monopoly on – when we’d covertly met on the shoreline. Our secret mission had been fuelled by the reception desk of my hotel on Denarau Island, a man-made, on-the-beaten-path luxury resort, where upon asking the beaming concierge about day and boat trips, I’d soon realised that my understanding of the exchange rate wasn’t the problem – my bank balance was.

Later, over a cracking meal of freshly grilled fish that the beaming Fijian waitress had upsold me – her laughter was so contagious I’d have likely said yes to a tin of tuna – I hatched a plan to find whoever had caught my lunch and ask if we could join them the next day. So there we were, under that sunset, agreeing on a price, a time and which palm tree to meet by. Our island hopping-come-fishing-support trip was set.

Fast forward to now, and our first port of call was starting to look like it might be our last. Apparently, the where was important.

As I open my shamefaced mouth to utter an uncomfortable yes, he follows with an equally firm, “I’ll be right back,” gesturing me towards a bar stool. His tone is very much sit-down and don’t move, rather than here, have a Pina colada.

Mr Suit turns and bounds across the beach, the sands seemingly a tropical trampoline. In the distance, an incoming craft – obviously much more luxurious than our commandeered vessel – is fast approaching. It looks awfully similar to the day trip tour I’d glossed over in the brochure the day before.

Scanning the waters for signs of my getaway fishing boat, I think I spot our fishermen friends in the far distance, rods cast, hunting their haul. Where my actual friends are, I have no idea. Perhaps they are being held prisoner in an overwater bungalow.

As a singular guitar starts to serenade the new arrivals and meke dancers bounce onto the trampoline beach, I think how perfect this setting is. What an incredible private island resort getaway.

I squint my eyes, letting the almost missable breeze and musical notes wash over me. In another world – where my wallet wasn’t as thin as these grains of sand – it could be me arriving on that boat. Me stepping out to a heartwarming Bula. Me enjoying a welcome cocktail on the restaurant’s veranda, which spills down to the ocean’s million cerulean shades.

Opening my eyes, I glance up and see a framed paddle above the bar. I think the small plaque says something about Tom Hanks, and it starts to dawn on me where I am. (I would later learn that Qalito Island is also known as Castaway Island – and yes, it’s as luxurious, secluded and, perhaps most importantly, as private as it sounds).

As Mr Suit springs back, I realise I need to get myself out of here with a little white lie.

“I’m a travel writer here to visit the resort,” I blurt, surprising even myself. I glance down at my bright blue palm tree-covered swim shorts as he scans my left hand, clutching a snorkel and towel. Just for a beat, I think he will arrest me there and then.

Somehow, Mr Suit seems to fight back the urge to ask all the sensible questions. But how did you get here? Why do you have fins rather than a pen? Or even, why are you lying to me?

Instead, he gives a genuine grin, a firm nod and every ounce of that famed Fijian hospitality. “Well, I better give you the grand tour then.”

And that’s how I accidentally ended up on a one-man media visit to Castaway Island Resort, one of the most luxurious islands I’ve ever seen. (Subsequently, and not so accidentally, I did end up publishing an article about it in an Australian magazine – so I guess it’s not really a lie when you follow through.)

We flit between manicured flower beds, dazzling private villas, sunset-facing cabanas and swimming pools soundtracked by trickling water features before turning our attention to the sea view restaurants, breezy bars, indulgent spa and the giant bures by the beach where I could happily spend the rest of my days.

I gawp, I gasp, and I ogle. When we finally find my two friends – or rather ‘colleagues’ – I assume Mr Suit has accepted I’d likely never seen a private island resort before, let alone was I going to write about one.

Now seemingly trusted enough, we share goodbyes like life-long friends and seek out the pre-arranged meeting point hidden from the resort’s reception. The instructions, “Wade in a bit away from the shore”, now make far more sense. Our fishermen friends haul us back aboard, and we start giggling among tubs of the morning’s catch.

“That island,” says fisherman two, pointing to a tiny speck in the distance, “that’s the one where they filmed the Cast Away film.”

Perhaps it would have made far more sense for our fishermen friends to take us to that uninhabited, resort-free isle officially known as Modrik on our Fiji day trip. But how could I be mad?

As far as failed (and unplanned, I must stress again) trespassing attempts go, I assume this one is about as gorgeous and welcoming as they get.

Want to visit Castaway Island with an invitation? Book this day tour. Even better, stay in this beautiful resort for a few days.

In Portugal’s fertile hinterlands, life has long revolved around the seasons. Spring brings blossoms, and summer celebrates Cova da Beira’s apples. Mushroom foraging follows in late autumn, while winter is welcomed by roasting chestnuts. But in Fundão, there’s one constant consideration no matter the cycle’s stage: cherries. Big, beautiful, and beloved carmine-coloured cherries.

Arrive in April, and delicate white and pastel pink blossoms brighten this lush, dense and verdant landscape. In this month, Fundão puts on a performance that could make Japan blush. By June, the harvest is in full swing, and tables across the country are piled high with these juicy orbs of goodness. Come September, the pruning begins, followed by planting in November. And then, in February, a sprinkle of snow atop the nearby Serra da Estrela, grafting fills the agenda as tender hands await the fruit of their labour.

Fundão is the core of Portugal’s cherry country – but it’s also a cradle of understated creativity and outdoor adventures. Orchards, flowers, vines, oaks and chestnut groves carpet the landscape, broken by the occasional castle, granite farming cottage or hiking path. Amongst the undergrowth, Iberian emerald lizards and salamanders scarper. Above, falcons, hawks and eagles soar, keeping an eye on adrenaline-focused biking trails while searching for their next feed.

For many of Portugal’s natives, the mere mention of Fundão brings wide-eyed smiles as the memory of the sweetest spring fruit resurfaces. However, for visitors, it remains a region vastly unexplored. A crime. This tiny city surrounded by the fruitful plains of Cova da Beira is a true rural bolthole worthy of a visit year-round. Especially if you combine your cherry curiosity with a tour of the Beiras’ twelve historic villages.

Old town, new soul

Fundão, like many of my favourite places in Portugal’s lesser-visited interior, doesn’t weigh you down with countless attractions or things to do. Instead, its compact historic core invites you to take it slow and amble down laneways. Analogue camera shops, cherry-heavy boutiques, and slow-paced cafes dictate the order of the day.

When you’re ready to dive into the local history – Celtic roots, Roman dominance, Jewish refugees and the Portuguese Inquisition – the Manor House holding the José Monteiro Archeology Museum will fill in some facts. There’s also a handful of churches and the odd statue, all easily explored on the marked heritage route. But, behind this apparent slumber, Fundão’s creative scene humbly bubbles away.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, much of this reinvention comes courtesy of the cerejas. Students at the Escola Profissional do Fundão patiently perfect dishes using cherries as the base, including a more purple-tinged Pastel de Nata. Wild Snow Dog Distillery has mastered the art of crafting an award-winning cherry gin. And in the city’s small tourism office, anything from cherry-infused liquors, beers and teas to soaps and chocolates can be taken as souvenirs.

Yet there’s much more modern ingenuity occurring, too. Stroll long enough, and you’ll start spotting the bounty of street art which adorns the city. From the more traditional depiction of lace, which coats an abandoned building behind the park, to the upcycled wolf creation by Portuguese artist Bordalo II by the train station.

And now, with a co-working hub and, more importantly, the space and housing to happily welcome remote workers – unlike Lisbon and its housing crisis– this is an old city embracing its creative soul.

Cherries many ways

“I’ve given away so many Fundão cherries,” local guide Bruno Fonseca chuckled as we shared a lunch of cherry-topped pork loins, a dish preceded by a cherry hummus appetiser, at local favourite As Tílias.

“Seriously, kilos and kilos of cherries,” he continued, explaining how his mission has been to spread the word (and flavour) of Fundão’s proudest product for years. It wasn’t a fruitless task, as this region’s cherries have carried the PGI designation (Protected Geographical Indication) since 1994. Meaning the cherries meet all the sizing, colour, and consistency requirements to be accredited.

After tangy cherry tiramisu – it’s June, and the month-long Sabores da Cereja festival means many restaurants in Fundão (plus Lisbon and Porto) are offering cherry-inspired menus – we departed together for the village of Alcongosta. Here, farms abound, and the area is responsible for nearly half of the country’s cherry production.

Entering Quinta de São Macário, owner Ana Martins welcomed us with three puppies playing at her feet. Set on the slope of the Gardunha, her orchards are tiered – a beautiful sight for certain in the spring blossom. While the orchards are private, one of the Rotas da Gardunha trails (Rota da Cerejas) passes through, permitting a year-round peaceful and panoramic stroll amongst the trees.

But now wasn’t a time for taking it in the views, but rather picking the ripest fruits from the trees. Placing the pairs carefully in the cestas de verga (traditional wicker baskets), we set about stacking high the sweet Saco cherries. This variety is native to this region and exclusive to Portugal.

Calling for a pause, Ana pours out small glasses of cherry liquor. She hands one to each farmer before raising a toast to the harvest. Luckily for me, I can escape the midday heat for the museum. For the others, it would be a race against time before the next storm struck – an unexpected hail attack had left its bruises on many of the plump fruits the day before.

Lessons and Legacies

Inside the Casa da Cereja, housed in a retired primary school, an impressive and in-depth museum guides visitors through all things cherries. The displays cover everything from the world’s most dense cultivation areas to the fruit’s seasonal lifecycle and the traditional tools used in the harvest. It’s tactile, colourful, and fascinating – but sadly, other than the videos, mainly in Portuguese. Still, the displays of traditional equipment, including baskets, ladders, and farming tools, needed little linguistic explaining.

After getting my fill of facts and appreciating the video documenting the village’s annual Cherry Festival – when hot air balloons glide, dancing and singing unite, and producers come together for a long weekend in June – we left the museum in search of our adopted Saco trees.

You see, in Fundão, you can leave your mark on the local landscapes by planting or ‘adopting’ a cherry tree. On paper, it might seem merely symbolic. But in reality, you’re helping to replant the local landscape outside the private orchards. I’m signed up for all future duties, such as visiting and harvesting my own fruit. When I can’t, I’ll still receive an annual box of cherries by post.

From the cherries to the castle

Thoroughly filled with cherries – both stomach and mind – I ventured to Castelo Novo for a little respite. One of the Aldeias Históricas de Portugal, a group of weathered and storied villages which dot Central Portugal, this is truly one of Europe’s hidden gems.

With a Gothic castle (rather than a cherry) on top, the views from the remains of the structure span for infinity on a clear day. Backed by the serrated slate peaks of Serra da Gardunha, the plains and groves continue for miles. Castelo Novoe has been an important location since the country’s founding. Beloved by various important figures, from the Order of the Templars and D. Dinis to D. Manuel I, who gave it a royal charter in the 16th century.

Nowadays, the medieval, Manueline and Baroque styles are cheek by jowl, threading through a web of streets which all seemingly return to the Town Square.

On the square, a Romanesque Town Hall presides. Knights Templar and Roman roads tracing away from it. Going up, you’ll be reunited with the castle, while other stone-clad streets hemmed by hydrangeas lead to small ateliers. Behind these doors, the village’s legends are turned into dolls. At a red-fronted house which once housed José Saramago, perhaps Portugal’s most renowned writer, I see the village’s resident cat has taken up residence.

But the real reason to come to these villages is to do little. Find a corner of shade under an olive tree. Read to the soundtrack of birdsong. Wait for dinner to be served in your boutique quarters, such as the imagination-igniting Pedra Nova.

Hinterland vines, traditional table

Back in Fundão proper, my attention returned to all things cherries courtesy of the special menu at Restaurante Hermínia. Forgoing the standard choices of traditional regional dishes, such as porco preto (black pork), arroz de pato (duck rice), and stewed lamb, I opted for June’s cherry special again.

Over three fruit-tinged courses, I discovered how well octopus paired with slow-cooked cherries. Quinta dos Currais’s pineapple-accented white wines – the valley sits in Portugal’s lesser-known wine region of Beira Interior – accompanied everything on the provincial table.

Having already visited Fundão in May, August, and now June, the waiter suggested I return in November. “It’s the month of the mushroom festival,” he remarked, “you’ll learn and eat a lot”.

Onwards to storied settlements with sustainable wheels

Beyond Fundão’s limits, the central region’s hinterlands sprawl. A mix of fruitful farmland, parched pastures, rocky outcrops and storied schist villages unfurling. To one side, you’ll meet the raia (border with Spain). To the other, the mountains of the Serra da Estrela. But whichever way you go, you’ll almost certainly encounter another of the Aldeias Históricas de Portugal. These historic villages aren’t just bound together by a marketing tagline but by their similar and aged tales.

To explore these villages is to journey through lofty lookout castles left in ruin. To take deep dives into the region’s Jewish history. And to venture into some of the country’s hardest-to-reach dense forests. While the brave might embark on the multi-week hike to get between them all, a car is the most popular way to go. Fundão municipality even has a sustainable scheme to help with that. You can hire a complimentary electric car for a few days to visit these storied settlements.

Just remember the fable of Fundão; slower is always supreme in this corner of the country.

Where to stay in Fundão and Castelo Novo

You’ll find a surprisingly vast array of accommodation options around Fundão and Castelo Novo, including many slower-paced and family-run boutique offerings. Here are a few of my favourite nearby suggestions should you wish to stay for a night or two.

Boutique: Pedra Nova, Castelo Novo

This beautifully restored home directly in the old castle’s shadow has been a labour of love for the couple, who have converted it into a boutique hotel with three rooms. Not only were they incredibly kind, but the silence at night, hammocks under the olive trees, relaxing pool and vintage-style touches in the rooms all come together to make this a dreamy hideaway.

Heritage Luxury: Convento do Seixo Hotel & Spa

This 5* renovated convent is just a couple of kilometres from the historic centre of Fundão. I loved how they respected the classic touches – such as the cloisters and facade – while bringing modern elements to the rooms. There is both an indoor and outdoor pool.

Glamping: Natura Glamping

These domed tent pods in the Serra da Gardunha deliver on the glamping promise. Excellent views, scenic hot tubs and pool, and fantastic trails nearby.

Family-friendly: O Alambique de Ouro Spa Hotel

I stayed here on my most recent visit and was surprised to find such a large and modern resort-style hotel just a short hop out of the centre. Still family-owned and has grown from a side-of-the-road restaurant, this vast hotel has multiple pools, various bars and restaurants and will soon open a significant new spa project.

How to get to Fundão and Castelo Novo

Reaching Fundåo is simple by public transport from Lisbon or even Porto. However, you’ll need more patience to get around without a car.

By train: Fundão sits on the Castelo Branco train line, which can be reached from Lisboa Santa Apolonia or Oriente by direct Intercity (3:30 hours) services or regional trains (around 4:20). To arrive from Porto, you’ll require a change of train.

Donas is the nearest train station to the Cherry Museum (40 minutes walk), and Castelo Novo’s station is also quite the walk (close to one hour) from the historical village. Both stations are only on the regional line.

By bus: You can arrive in Fundão by long-distance bus from Lisbon Sete Rios (2:45) and other major towns and cities (such as Guarda, Viseu and even Porto) directly. Book tickets with Rede Expressos

Getting between Fundão and the nearby attractions by bus is also possible with forward planning. Buses are mainly weekday only and have much more limited services during school holidays (Férias Escolares). Some services only operating once daily. But, with a bit of timetable studying, you should be able to utilise the connections between Fundão, Castelo Novo, Alcongosta (for the Cherry Museum), and other locations to at least minimise the need for taxis.

By bike and boots: You could also consider some of the previously mentioned walking routes instead (avoid the midday heat) to explore the region or rent bikes to get around easily.

By car: You can reach Fundåo in around two and a half hours from Lisbon and Porto. It’s easier to explore the local area with a car. Alternatively, see if there is availability with the local e-car scheme, which the tourism board supplies without charge. Then you can arrive by train and be met with the vehicle – cheaper, easier, and greener for the planet.

It’s four am when my alarm pierces the silence. For a second, I lay motionless in disbelief. For years, I’d said one day I’ll be there. And here I was, there. The holiest of Hindu cities.

Thoughts of the countless pilgrims who have journeyed to the Ganges’ sacred streams flit through my mind as I rush to dress. These revered rivers flow far but are at their most celebrated here, attracting millions to bathe in the waters said to wash away all sins. For many, including me, being here is a true once-in-a-lifetime dream.

My one day in Varanasi was today, and I didn’t want to miss a millisecond.

Snaking between other rickshaws and plodding cattle hunting their morning feed, the chilly air cuts to my bones as I head towards the riverbank. At this hour, the streets are quiet, almost serene.

Small groups huddle around the handful of open stalls, sipping on chai and waiting for the sun to break. Tucked away in dimly lit corners, lonely faces are illuminated by the flame of a match, signalling the day’s first nicotine hit. Quickly, I reach the southerly Assi Ghat and break into a broad grin at the unhurriedly swaying boat before me.

I’m quickly distracted by chanting from deep within a crowd. Beyond the huddle, a row of orange-robed young men circled by burning flames hypnotizes anyone who glances their way. An equally immaculately dressed lady throws objects into a fire, raining a shower of sparks over the scene. This is the daily pre-sunrise Aarti, the Subah e Banaras – a Hindu ritual which, in this case, is dedicated to the Ganges.

I’ve visited India a handful of times, and even though this mysterious city has long been the India I was most eager to experience, somehow, it had always eluded me. Stepping onto the sky-blue rickety boat and gliding away from the Ghat upstream – the river here uniquely flows in the ‘opposite’ direction – it was suddenly real. I was face-to-face with a world that had been hard to fathom from the pages of a book.

The Ghats, staircases that descend to the water’s edge, are almost as important as the river. Affording pilgrims access to the sacred waters. There are some 80-odd Ghats along this seven-kilometre stretch, and as the sun breaks, I watch young boys playing out their cricket fantasies, yoga poses, and huddled women bathing as we sail alongside each one.

But some of the most important Ghats are perhaps the hardest to stomach for visitors. For these holiest of waters aren’t only for cleansing in life but also in death. Hundreds of bodies are cremated here daily on burning wooden pyres – the ashes spread into the sacred waters so the soul can ascend directly to heaven.

It’s fascinating, raw, and hard to digest. I feel like a perverse intruder as I look on. Yet, I’m unsure if averting my gaze is ruder, and I glance at my boat captain’s weathered face for reassurance. He seems equally as transfixed, although he’s likely witnessed this age-old tradition countless times.

Sensing my eyes, he tells me no one knows how many bodies have been committed to the water here. The cremations aren’t particularly licensed or organised; those who wish to bring a body here – and many do from across the country – can do so. We silently sail back the way we came, leaving the lives fading into the water in our wake.

A prickle of warmth hits my neck as the sun bathes the banks in an ethereal golden hue. From the river, I feel like I have a front-row ticket to this city’s soul – and someone has just turned the spotlights on.

Rusty red palaces and towering temples juxtapose with luggageless pilgrims arriving at the water’s edge. Hardworking men wheel carts back and forth, transporting wood to the cremation sites. Bathers silently submerge themselves in the sacred waters while open-air laundrettes douse bedding beyond. A cacophony of boat engines, squawking gulls and squealing children replaces the soothing chants of the early hours.

Reaching dry land, I schlep up the steep stairs, bounding goats goading as they overtake me. It’s nearly nine am, and my stomach is chanting for substance. Entering the maze of alleyways away from the riverbank, I feel serenity slink away with the ebbing sacred waters.

Street cleaners ferociously fight a losing battle with dust. Around a corner, mud wrestlers are at it, partaking in akhada, a traditional sport. Down each new lane, another story unfolds.

At Shree Ram Bhandar I settle on an empty plastic stool and wait for my turn to try the local morning staples. Aloo kachori, a stuffed and fried snack ball, and piping-hot sweet jalebis go down as a treat. But it’s the show that’s even more delicious. Hands dart everywhere above the sizzling pans of oil, ladles and spoons in overdrive. And seemingly, the whole city crowds around, waiting their turn for a heavenly bite.

I spot a stray goat donning a makeshift jumper and decide he’ll be as good a guide as any, following him deeper into the side streets. Eventually, we say goodbye as I dip into a silk house in the weaving district and him into a bin.

Behind an ajar door, experienced, well-worn fingers effortlessly weaved threads together. Elegant, complete Saris hanging on the wall behind. He symbols me to come further inside, and I’m hypnotised as I watch him work. There’s a reason that Benarasi Silk Sarees are a source of pride sold throughout the country.

Someone mentions a vast, modern museum and textile centre that has opened in recent years just outside the oldest part of the city. But how could that compare to the handiwork in these lived-in alleys? Here, among an almost deafening chorus of power looms, I was in the heart of the action.

As the afternoon’s heat turns into a hazier light, I steer back towards the river. The streets seem quiet, almost expectant, as I board another boat for the grand finale: the evening Ganga Aarti at the Dashashwamedh Ghat.

Chugging along the water, an explosion of colour and sounds appears as we arch a slight bend in the spiritual stream. Innumerable boats are patiently floating side by side, huddling together like they’re seeking shelter from a storm. Children run along the river bank upstream, clinging to kaleidoscopic kites. Everyone’s heading to the same spot.

On land, the Dashashwamedh – Varanasi’s main Ghat – is overflowing. It’s impossible to tell how many people are crowded here to witness the evening Aarti in all its divine glory. I squint from our slightly beaten boat at the back of the pack, trying to get a decent view. Photos are pointless, and I happily pack my camera away – this seems a moment to be fully present if ever there was one.

With sunlight fading, the floating candles – delicately balanced on leaves and flowers – twinkle like fireflies. For a brief moment, I’m in the India I’d always pictured as a kid: one of pretty colours and lights, activity and entertainment, culture and controlled chaos.

We might have been far from the riverbank where flames were swirling and chants were calling, but the energy slapped me around the face like I was on stage. How many of us are here right now, I wonder. Thousands, at least – all enthralled and dedicated to the divine Goddess Ganga.

It’s like a perfectly choreographed Bollywood show, and we’re the extras. Except for millions each year, this isn’t a performance at all; it’s the pinnacle of a sometimes painstaking pilgrimage.

Somehow, the moment lasted for eternity. Yet, at the same time, it felt like it was just a second later when our already creaking boat was slammed back into the dock by those hot on our heels. Throngs of people are swarming with me from either side; the only direction we can go is up the Ghat’s steps en masse.

There’s not a moment of calm anywhere to be seen. The stairs, the streets, the roads, the waters – everywhere I look, there is a swarm of locals, tourists, honking bikes and unfussed cattle moving as one. It’s chaotic without being overwhelming. Somehow, the horns sound more soothing here than in Mumbai, the throngs of people more comforting than in Delhi.

Reaching a clearing, I stall to take it all in. A weary group of pilgrims edge past, bags balanced on their heads. They’re pushing against the crowds and must be heading to the Ghats to rest or bathe. I wonder if they’re also continuing to Prayagraj Kumbh Mela.

My friend Janet grabs me and we slide into a paint-flaked storefront for a lassi. The yoghurt and honey drink hit the spot, and I remember I hadn’t eaten since morning. Is this still the same one day in Varanasi?

As we exit the cafe onto the street, a sense of serenity has seemingly returned. We’ve decided to splash out and eat at one of the restaurants overlooking the river. It seems like too much of a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to skip.

Yet, en route back to the waterside, the street food is simply too tempting. We chow down on banarasi paan, betel-nut leaves stuffed with spices and rose jelly, and freshly cooked samosas before hunting for our feast.

But my eye’s been taken by a fragile lady, head to tow in a radiant ochre sari. She’s bartering with passers-by to sell her last few candles, and we relieve her of the final three and wave goodbye as she clambers up the Ghat.

These candles are signs of respect. The river is Mother, and Mother should be respected. Settling by the water, I poke my toes into the oil-like waters before bending to place the leaf basket. For a second, everything seems silent as I fixate on my offering floating into the distance. As the tiny flame extinguishes, the chanting, chirping, and ringing return louder than before.

We catch each other’s eye and seem to silently understand. We might have just shared the same one day in Varanasi, but for us – and the millions of others that flock here each year – no one’s one day can ever be the same here. Varanasi is your own subjective story.

A story you’ll carry until cremation.

Plan your visit

Where to stay in Varanasi on a budget: The Ganga Fuji Hostel gets excellent write-ups and reviews and is just a short distance from the Ghats. Prices are around £10 a night for a private or about £4 for a dorm.

Where to stay in Varanasi in comfort: I stayed at the Ramada, a five-star hotel with a pool and spacious rooms around twenty minutes from the city. It was in the Cantonment area, where many resort hotels are.

Where to stay in Varanasi for a unique experience: For those wanting some quality digs closer to Varanasi, the Brij Rama Palace is located along the Ghats. It’s a stunning converted palace and part of the Heritage Hotels collection.

How to get to Varanasi: Flying into Lal Bahadur Shastri airport is the best way to reach the city, given the distance can be far and trains are long in India. The airport is well connected with domestic destinations (and some international), ranging from budget to more premium airlines. The journey from the airport to the central city took me around 40 minutes.

Where to go after Varanasi: Head off and explore more of the Uttar Pradesh region, such as Ayodha and Prayagaja, home of the Kumbh Mela. For those seeking the iconic, the Taj Mahal is in Agra, also in the region, and is a great place to begin the famous India Golden Triangle tour of Agra, Jaipur and Delhi.

From Manchester’s thriving cultural scene to Cornwall’s coastal charms, the best places to visit in England span countryside, coast and cities, all peppered with historic sights and spectacular panoramas. London is only a fraction of this nation’s story. Once you leave the capital, you’ll soon find a very different pace of life and appreciate just how diverse our accents, cultures and communities can be – sometimes, even only a city or two apart.

Nearly all of my favourite places in England are reachable by train from London. Some are doable as day trips, but it’s best to plan at least a one-night stay to fully appreciate these incredible things to do in the UK and in case of any rail delays. Whether you want to find a beach you can’t believe is in England, visit a living, vintage museum, or enjoy a non-London city break, these are some of the best places in England to explore by rail.

Train booking tips in England

• The UK’s rail system can (at times) be chaotic and expensive. Be sure to book tickets in advance for the best deals (most advance tickets start selling about 12 weeks ahead) and try to avoid peak travel times so you can enjoy the savings of Super Off-Peak Tickets.
• Split Tickets, when you book two tickets rather than one direct route, can offer further savings and most search platforms now include these results.
• If you’d prefer to make all your arrangements together, some companies allow you to book combined UK rail and hotel breaks so you can rewview ticket and accommodation prices simultaneously.
• Remember, if you don’t have a seat reservation (some services don’t offer them) and the train is crowded, you can still get onboard most services, just expect to stand during busy times.
• National Rail runs the overall UK train network, but there are various companies across the country that operate different services, and some have different ticketing options and prices. As such, it’s worth considering all options presented, as sometimes there can be time, route and cost differences to get from A to B. Heading north and into Scotland, for example, there are multiple operators including CrossCountry, Lumo, Avanti West Coast and LNER.

The Jurrasic Coast

Take the train from London Waterloo to Poole (2 hours) or Weymouth (3 hours). The Jurassic Coaster bus service provides onwards coastal connections.

I might be biased, as it’s where I grew up, but this glorious southern swatch of coast (pictured in the header photo) remains my favourite place to visit in England. Along the Dorset stretch of the Jurrasic Coast, you’ll find some of the UK’s most dazzling beaches. But the proper pull is the fossil-filled beaches and abundant pre-historic fossils that span millions of years and are still being discovered today. Add to this picturesque Durdle Door, an arch that sits over gentle waters, stone-built pubs dishing up fish and chips, ancient castle runs and even a swannery, and you’ve got an ideal UK Staycation.

By rail, Weymouth and Poole are decent gateways with bus connections. However, you might want to consider renting a car or hiring a campervan from London to enjoy a road trip at your own pace – it will also make it much easier to combine Dorset with Devon and Cornwall.

Oxford

Take the train to Oxford from London Paddington (55 minutes) or London Maylebone (1 hour 30 minutes).

Oxford, home to the renowned university, is one of England’s most famous places to see. It’s also a commuter city, so there are plenty of rail links with London, making it a decent day trip for those pressed for time. Pre-book a tour to see some of the 13th-century University of Oxford buildings and the most beautiful parts of the Bodleian Library. However, even if the celebrated colleges don’t appeal, Oxford offers plenty more.

Take your pick from excellent museums, including Ashmolean’s Art and Architecture Collection (England’s oldest public museum) or Pitt Rivers’ natural history exhibitions. Head inside Oxford Castle for centuries of history and to learn about its use as a prison. Or dip into the delightful Covered Market for a snack or souvenir. Strolling and soaking up the storied streets flanked by sandstone buildings might be enough for you; Oxford is magical even if you don’t enter one of the monument attractions.

Bristol

Take the train from London Paddington to Bristol Temple Meads; the journey is around 90 minutes.

Bristol is one of the easiest cities in England to visit by train from London. And, more importantly, it’s one of the best. Historical buildings, like the mighty Bristol Cathedral, clash with the abundance of street art. Unsurprising, given this is Banksy’s hometown. As you stroll the city’s colourful laneways, you’ll spot murals and stencil art on nearly every corner. There’s also plenty of more classical representation, especially inside the hulking Bristol Museum.

Bristol also brags plenty of green spaces and chilled-out spots to pause along the River Avon. Hop on a boat trip and sail out to see the Clifton Suspension Bridge, or take a hot air balloon (the city has an annual festival in August) for a bird’s eye perspective. Combine all this with the top-notch nightlife, decent LGBTQ+ scene, and excellent theatre, and you’ve got an awesome city break full of free-spirited, student-heavy energy.

Stonehenge

Take the train from London Waterloo to Salisbury (1 hour 30 minutes), then take a local bus or the dedicated Stonehenge Tour Shuttle (30 minutes).

Stonehenge isn’t the most straightforward place to visit in England by train, but it’s doable if you don’t mind taking a bus for the final stretch. And, given it’s the country’s most important prehistoric site, chances are you’ll want to plan Stonehenge into your itinerary.

The intriguing collection of Neolithic-placed sarsen stones is quite the sight and one of our nation’s greatest mysteries. Surrounded by burial mounds and a popular place to be on the solstice due to the alignment, it all feels somewhat ethereal, especially when you try to understand how these 25-ton stones were placed. As a tip, you can see the site from the Heritage Path nearby, but you’ll need to buy a ticket to get closer.

Brighton

Take the train to Brighton from London Bridge or London Victoria; the journey takes around one hour.

I spent a few months living in Brighton and made some of my fondest memories there. It has a special atmosphere compared to many of the UK’s cities, which is helped by the seaside, decent nightlife, a thriving community, and many independent businesses.

Come to eat fish and chips on the pebble beach or play arcade games on the pier, explore the iconic Indo-Islamic-style Royal Pavilion, or shop for quirky art and hand-produced wares in the photographic pedestrianised streets. Brighton is by far one of the UK’s most progressive cities, so there are plenty of vegan-friendly restaurants, decent LGBTQ+ bars and space, and alternative-culture hangouts to find if you stay longer than a day.

Cornwall

Take the daytime train from London Paddington to Truro or Penzance in around five hours. The Night Riveria, one of the UK’s two sleeper trains, travels between Paddington and Penzance overnight, with cabin and seat options.

It’s impossible not to fall for the charms of coastal Cornwall. This is the stuff that UK beach holidays are made of: ice creams and pubs galore, surf and sunbathing-friendly shorelines, quaint villages, plenty of historical sights and more contemporary attractions like the domed gardens of the Eden Project. You’d need at least three days to tour all of the best places to visit in Cornwall, and being one of the further-flung places to visit in England by rail, the sleeper service to Penzance is my recommendation.

Penzance isn’t only a great base; there’s also plenty of attractions to explore nearby. St Michael’s Mount, a tidal island similar to France’s Mont St Michel, and the open-air, cliff-hugging Minack Theatre should be on your agenda. If you’d prefer to stick to nature, tackle the multi-day South West Coast and walk to St Ives, one of Cornwall’s most idyllic harbour towns (also reachable by bus) or take the ferry from Penzance for a day trip on the sun-kissed Isles of Scilly.

Durham

Take the train from London King’s Cross to York with LNER and it’s around three hours direct; alternative operators require a change at Newcastle.

If you are looking for the quintessential British experience that has it all, then don’t look any further than a visit to Durham. Easily accessed by train and close to Newcastle International Airport, Durham’s city boasts a UNESCO-listed castle and cathedral, while the rest of the region is packed full of history, nature and one of the best museums I’ve ever visited.

Durham city itself is most famous for its castle and cathedral, both spectacular and deserving of a few hours, while cool cafes and historic architecture are close by. Outside of the city, you have the Durham Heritage Coast, ideal for hiking and relaxing, and plenty of castles and green rolling hills in the region – it’s also reasonably easy to get around by public transport for those not wishing to hire a car.

Be sure to visit Beamish Museum (reachable by bus), a living museum where I spent a full day– it was that good! Imagine a museum meets theme park vibe, where everything is fully interactive, and you can discover the history of England from the 1800s onwards. From old-school sweet shops and photography studios fully staffed to vintage trams and busses driving around, the chance to see history played out, there are actors in the ‘homes’ and ‘schools’, for example, makes this an excellent opportunity to experience history.

Colchester

Take the train from London Liverpool Street to Colchester in just over an hour.

If you’ve ever seen a particular reality show about Essex, you might not expect this area of England to be overflowing with historic villages and towns, but it does offer plenty to discover. Here, you’ll find Georgian, Roman and Norman stories in the forms of Colchester Castle and the town’s museum with thousands of years of history. With plenty of crooked, historic half-timbered buildings converted into hotels or pubs, it’s an easy and enjoyable overnight stay or day trip from the capital.

Bath

Take the train from London Paddington to Bath Spa; the journey takes around 1 hour 20 minutes.

The honey-coloured stone that covers most of Bath, the small traditional shops and the towering Cathedral make this a real gem to discover in the south-west of England. The main draw is the Roman baths, which have now been converted into a museum. Entree fees will set you back around £20, which seems fair given the work involved to keep this vast place in check.

Bath Abbey, with its enormous fan-vaulted ceiling above the long stained-glass window, is breathtaking, and it is perhaps one of the most striking buildings I’ve seen in England. If you want a sweeping view of the city, a paid ticket will allow you access to the tower to look down on the city below. With street performers and classical musicians usually around in the squares, grab a picnic lunch and enjoy the old-world vibes, people-watching, and grandeur of Bath around you; it’s also well connected to London by train.

Manchester

Take the train from London Euston to Manchester in around two hours; cheaper and slightly longer options usually involve a change in Crewe.

A city break in Manchester is an excellent alternative to London. You’ll never see all of London in a few days, but Manchester is more compact. With its well-connected airport, trams and free city centre buses, it makes a viable standalone city break in England. For most from abroad, though, it remains one of Europe’s underrated cities. Many might think of Manchester and imagine booze, shopping and Oasis singing ‘Wonderwall’, but there’s plenty more to the city than that.

Of course, the music heritage is enormous. Artists such as The Smiths, The Stone Roses, and the aforementioned Gallagher brothers hail from here, but for a younger crowd, these names may no longer be the reason to visit. Instead, focus on the many free museums, theatre options, capital-rivalling cafes, and the ever-evolving art scene. Then, of course, there are first-class traditional pubs and trendy dining spots, such as Mackie Mayor, and parties into the early hours.

Don’t miss the John Rylands Library, one of the most beautiful libraries in the world, the Museum of Science and Industry, and the canvas-rich Manchester Art Gallery – all with free entrance. Head to the People’s History Museum or The Pankhurst Centre to dive deeper into Manchester’s inspiring social-justice fighting past. The latter, focused on the Suffragette Movement for women’s votes, is particularly personal.

Castleton for the Peak District

Take the train from Euston to Castleton (involving a couple of changes) in around four to five hours. You might want to visit Manchester first, as it’s only 20 minutes away and will break up the journey.

We are spoilt for National Parks in England, but The Peak District is one of my favourites. A few years back, I got to lead a photo walk through Castleton for Lonely Planet and fell in love with the village of Castleton, which seemed to have as many pubs as people nearly and is a short train connection to Manchester. Famed for cycling and hiking, the national park mixes dramatic limestone valleys with moorlands, and if you plan an extended visit, the Pennine Way footpath is a great way to explore much of the park and for the adventurous, continue all the way onwards to Scotland.

Windsor

Take the train from London Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside with a change in Vauxhallor Clapham Junction; alternatively, go from London Paddington and change in Slough. Both options take around one hour.

While for many, Windsor is seen as home to the King, for me, the city was a familiar beer-sinking spot when I was a student in nearby Reading. Only a short train ride away from London without breaking the bank, Windsor Castle is a must for tourists visiting, but the slower-paced life along the rivers and the history of nearby Eton make it one of the best day trips from the capital when you visit England.

Be sure to pop into St George Chapel and marvel at the stained glass windows, and try to time your visit on a day when you can see the changing of the guard. A boat trip and picnic here is also a pretty chilled way to spend an afternoon in one of the country’s royal boroughs.

Carlisle for Hadrian’s Wall

Take the direct service from London Euston to Carlisle with Avanti in around 4 hours; LNER is an alternative from London King’s Cross changing in Newcastle.

In the very north of England near the Scottish Border, Hadrian’s Wall spans 80 miles from both sides of the coasts and is dotted with barracks and forts along the lush green landscape of the hills, offering one of the best UK adventure holidays for hikers.

When I visited, I used the charming country town of Carlise as base; the train connections help, as does the impressive castle. The Roman history of Britain can really come alive here if you catch the lighting of the flames along the length of the wall as I did many years ago. Excavations are ongoing, so if you time your visit right, you can see history being unearthed live right before you. If you plan a road trip from England to Scotland, spending a night here is well worth it.

From the silky soft sands of Crete to the volcanic black beaches of Santorini, the number of idyllic Greek holiday destinations are as endless as they are enchanting. But while limiting yourself to just one island (or city) on a vacation to Greece might be tempting for topping up your tan, planning a multi-centre Greece holiday is almost as easy as booking an all-inclusive.

The biggest challenge? Whittling down which of the 200-plus inhabited islands to visit on a multi-destination Greece holiday. The easiest way to see as many of these beautiful European beach destinations is to hop on a sailing tour or cruise. However, with decent train links on the mainland, and plenty of local ferries to choose from, you don’t necessarily have to sleep onboard to visit more than one sultry shoreline.

Whether you’re seeking feta-filled days and citrusy-wine nights paired with myths and legends, or ancient archaeological finds combined with blue-and-white panoramas, these Greece holiday destinations can all seamlessly be turned into a multi-centre trip.

Pair Kefalonia’s wines with Ithaca’s myths

The blissful Ionian Islands offer some of Greece’s easiest to access beaches, with the airports on Corfu, Kefalonia, and Zakynthos all receiving international flights. But there’s also no shortage of ferry routes between this cluster of islands, making a multi-destination Greece holiday to Kefalonia and airport-free Ithaca – linked by ferry in less than an hour – a breeze.

On Kefalonia, you’ll find plenty of gorgeous beaches such as Skala, Myrtos, Avithos and Foki Fiskardo to sun yourself on, spectacular boat trips along the coast (and into the Melissani Cave), and panoramic hikes through the dense forests of the Ainos National Park. The vineyards of Kefalonia, known for their Robola whites, are also well worth visiting if you can tear yourself away from the shoreline. As the larger of the two islands, there’s no shortage of high-end villas in Kefalonia, making it a better base – with daytime temperatures over 20°C from May until October, seeking out shoulder-season deals is a solid idea.

The second Greece holiday destination of this trip is the smaller and more peaceful isle of Ithaca, best known for the myth of Odysseus. The Greek legend of this more than lives on, with regular readings of Homer’s Odyssey famous poem presented in the island’s cultural spaces. Beyond, it’s just as mystical, with turquoise-fringed bays and secluded sands offering a slightly more offbeat Greek experience.

Contrast Kos’ beaches with Nisyros’ volcano

These two Dodecanese Islands aren’t geographically far apart, but they can feel a world away from each other when you’re on them. Kos, a long loved beach holiday island is a great getaway from the UK thanks to the abundance of seasonal flights and package deals. Meanwhile, to visit volcanic Nisyros Island on this multi-centre Greece vacation you need only plan a day trip –however, I’d suggest scheduling a couple of nights to enjoy the serenity of this unique island.

For the most part though, I’d suggest basing yourself on Kos. For a little more culture, stay in Kos Town, where the Roman open-air theatre, archeological museum and mosaics, and sea-facing fortress bring some history to an otherwise beach-focused break. Other more typical beach resort towns include laid-back Kefalos or more lively Kardamena, where the ferry to Nisyros departs.

The second Greece holiday destination of this trip, Nisyros, is less about golden sands and more about the sulphur-spewing Stefanos Crater – one of the largest in the world. On the ferry approach, you’ll see the expected whitewashed downs that decorate the edge of this fiery island, but once you’ve taken the bus or hiked up to the crater – which you can actually walk inside of – it’s a different world. One of my favourite offbeat European destinations, I adored my time in Nisyros, and once the day-trippers have gone by sunset, it becomes even more serene.

Island-hopping around the cinematic Cyclades

The Cyclades are one of Greece’s most famous and visited island groups. However, it’s Santorini’s azure-domed roofs and black sand beaches that have become the household name. Yet, with crowds ever-growing on this overtouristed island, it’s never been a better time to consider one of the other islands in the gorgeous group.

With more than 200 islands in the Cyclades group, seeing them all would be a mammoth undertaking. Some of the other most popular destinations include gay-friendly Mykonos, known for its nightlife, the idyllic and lesser-visited Milos where sandstone cliffs plunge into bath-like waters, charming Paros, and the largest island, Naxos.

If you can’t decide which of the Cyclades to visit, why not bundle a handful together into an island-hopping trip. You’re not just limited to the giant floating-city-style cruises that ply the Mediterranean in summer either; there are plenty of small ship cruises of Greece to choose from, and the sailing season usually runs from spring until autumn. With all the legwork done for you, you can enjoy a few of the most beautiful Greek holiday destinations hassle-free.

All aboard from Athens to Thessaloniki

If you’re travelling to Europe in winter, or would prefer to focus on Greece’s mainland rather than islands, you can’t go wrong spending at least a few days in Athens, the country’s timeless and ethereal capital city. Laden with legends, landmarks and luxury offerings, there’s plenty more to see beyond the world-famous UNESCO-listed Acropolis. But why limit yourself to just one Greek holiday destination when Thessaloniki can easily be reached by train?

My biggest tip when it comes to Athens is don’t rush; I made this mistake on my first whirlwind trip to the city and then subsequently had to return a couple of years later to see everything I missed. Of course, you’ve got the major highlights such as the Parthenon atop the Acropolis, the linked museum, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus Roman amphitheatre. But then there is so much more, such as the half-day worthy National Archaeological Museum, the Byzantine and Christian Museum with its standout mosaics, and the all-marble Panathenaic Stadium.

Making a trip to Athens into a multi-centre Greece vacation is also straightforward, with the train linking the capital to the underrated second city of Thessaloniki in less than six hours. While not quite as rich in history as Athens, there’s more than enough ancient ruins and archaeological sights, such as the Roman Forum, Archeological Museum and Arch of Galerius to fill a day or two. The Museum of Byzantine Culture is also a good shout if you missed the one in Athens, while the waterfront is ideal for a stroll and to visit the White Tower. You’ll want to spend the majority of your time in Athens, of course, but a night or two in Thessaloniki will allow you to see a little more of the country, especially on the train ride.

Combine cultured Corfu with the Albanian Riviera

For me, Corfu is one of the best islands to visit in Greece. I’ve been three times, and it never disappoints. You have got everything you could want from a Greek holiday here, with dramatic-yet-blissful beaches and bays – Paleokastritsa and Rovinia are two of my favourites – enough history and cultural attractions in the capital to fill a day or two, and first-class nightlife, no matter if you want classy cocktails, a beachside bar, or an all-night party – plus, it’s a great place to learn to scuba dive.

But this is a Greece multi-destination holiday with a twist, as instead of taking a ferry to another Greek island, you’ll instead board to head to a different country: Albania.

I honestly didn’t realise how close the two countries were before we were driving along the coast of the Albanian Riviera and I checked to see what island was on the horizon. Needless to say, we took the two-hour ferry across to make the most of the opportunity.

Albania itself also seems to be having a minute, yet with not too many flights yet, reaching the country’s south coast from Corfu can sometimes be easier, quicker and more affordable. I wouldn’t suggest doing this as a day trip, but splitting your time evenly between exploring Corfu and visiting some of the spectacular beaches along the Albanian coastline – the stretch around Ksamil being the most dreamy.

Last winter, The White Lotus put the Mediterranean’s largest island on many a travel wish list. The luxurious sea-view resort, alluring soft sands, and obsession with ceramic heads did the sales pitch, sending sofa detectives worldwide into a Sicily spin. But now we’ve finally got that theme tune and visions of ‘Peppa Pig’ riding on a Vespa out of our own, slightly less embellished heads, my answer to the question “Is Sicily worth visiting?” remains resolutely the same: a resounding yes.

One of the best islands to visit in the world, let alone Italy, Sicily scintillates in a myriad of ways. A living time capsule for human civilisations, history buffs will be laden with layers from the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Byzantines – and all the others who have been and gone. Equally, it’s a haven for paradisiacal sands, and beach seekers will be blown away by the cinematic shoreline backdrop of Cefalu or the bath-like waters of Isola Bella. Foodies, meanwhile, arguably get the biggest win – everything on Sicily’s menu is delectable.

But perhaps the best reason to visit Sicily is to slow down and relish the island’s lot. Sicily packs in plenty, sure, but it also invites you to linger in lazy hill towns, gawp at active volcanoes, and dive a little bit deeper into the local lifestyle – it’s undeniably Italian, yet distinctly Sicilian, and that’s a combination worth savouring.

The slower pace of Sicilian life

I spent a little over a month in Sicily on my first visit and was enamoured with the Sicilian pace of life. These special islands – there are two archipelago groups alongside the main island – were practically born for slow travel. Whether it’s lazy days sauntering between sands, tackling the multi-day long-distance hiking trails through the hinterlands, or spending time slowly exploring the Aeolian or Aegadian Islands where harbours full of fishers provide ample people-watching opportunities, many of the best reasons to visit Sicily boil down to breaking-away from the fast-tourism model.

Even in the sometimes chaotic capital of Palermo you’ll find plenty of time to pause and delve deeper, be it with a Sicilian cooking lesson at the Mamma Corleone culinary studio or a pottery course at MUD to craft your own creation and learn more about the ceramic heads (teste di moro) that are ubiquitous in Sicily.

Essentially, Sicily is an open-air museum, and with seven World Heritage Sites across the island, you’ll need to either plan a slow jaunt to cherish them all or book one of the many unhurried tours of Italy’s south, especially those that dedicate at least a week – or ideally ten days – to Sicily itself.

An archaeological journey through time

You might be asking, why visit Sicily when the rest of Italy has so many historic attractions to offer? Well, this island has been seducing seafarers for millennia, stacking stories, flavours and architectural styles upon each other. A true time capsule of treasures, Sicily’s archaeological sights span epochs and eras that have shaped not just these shores but Europe and beyond.

At Agrigento’s ancient Greek Valley of the Temples, which dates back to the 5th century BC, you can walk atop the ridge where one of Greece’s most influential cities once stood. While subsequent invaders destroyed some of the original temples, don’t let that deter you; restoration work has been done respectfully, and the site is both fascinating and photogenic. Come in March 2025, and you can combine the ancient wonders with the city’s Almond Blossom Festival.

Another of my favourite places on the island is Villa Romana del Casale, where you’ll find what UNESCO calls “the finest mosaics in situ anywhere in the Roman world.” This vast 4th-century AD villa is carpeted in mosaics depicting various scenes, and raised walkways allow for optimal views.

Unforgettable accommodation for all budgets

You don’t need to splurge on a stay at the upscale White Lotus Resort (it’s a real hotel, the San Domenico Palace in Taormina) to get a taste of Sicily’s finest sea views or sumptuous suites; the island has plenty of incredible accommodation for all budgets.

My most important criteria for our first week on the island was to have a sea view, and with an abundance of tranquil villas in Sicily, both on the main island and the archipelagos (more on those later), it wasn’t hard to find a surprisingly affordable base to enjoy balcony evenings watching the last copper flickers over the lapping waves.

Another popular reason to visit Sicily is the chance to stay in a palazzo (small palatial building). There are plenty dotted around the island, many of which have been converted into short-term rentals at a fair price for the opportunity they offer.

Food worth savouring

If I were to answer the question ‘why visit Sicily’ in one word, I’d be momentarily torn between responses before giving arguably the most compelling reason: the food – and that’s really saying something in a country as appetising as Italy.

Delicious dishes based on seasonal and flavoursome ingredients, mouthwatering morsels of sweet treats, just-caught-and-cooked seafood, and fresh, fragrant pomegranate juice stalls are just some of the island’s many unforgettable bites which make it one of Europe’s best food destinations.

Be sure to seek out signature dishes such as caponata, a typical aubergine plate with sweet and sour flavours; cannoli, ricotta stuffed tube pastry; Pasta alla Norma, aubergine and ricotta topped pasta tubes; and arancini, fried stuffed rice balls – but that’s only a few plates to get you started, Sicily’s full menu is extensively excellent.

Cities with countless layers

Understandably, the archipelago’s fame as a European beach destination remains one of the top reasons to visit Sicily, but you shouldn’t snub the island’s cities. With layers of art and architecture, Sicily’s storied cities are personality-packed delights.

In Palermo, the sexy, sassy and sometimes overwhelming capital city, your senses might be temporarily overloaded, but all for good reasons. On Palermo’s boisterous backstreets, for example, Ballaro Market can seem like a whirlwind, but it will introduce you to the island’s character and finest street food flavours. Venture inside the 12th-century Cathedral, admire the Byzantine mosaics adorning the Cappella Palatina, and gawp at the Royal Palace of Palermo – where further mosaics, courtyards and soaring ceilings astound – and you’ll find a more stately and subdued introduction.

Across the island on the east coast, the second city of Catania – a short drive from imposing Mount Etna which provides an often bellowing backdrop to her Baroque – offers a more ‘classical Italian’ experience with it’s pretty Bellini gardens, castle-turned-gallery Ursino, and Basilica decorated with an impressive marble façade – there’s also the remains of a Roman-Greek amphitheatre to tour. But it’s in spectacular Syracuse where Greek history shines brightest, with the archaeological museum and amphitheatres forever imprinted on my mind.

Volcanoes and vines

You might wonder why you should visit Sicily if there are so many active volcanoes across the archipelago. Well, that’s very much part of the attraction.

UNESCO-listed Mount Etna and Stromboli are perhaps the most famous, but there are even more. On Vulcano Island, for example, we were greeted by the stench of sulphur and warning signs that the volcano’s trails were now closed due to worrying activity – some residents had even temporarily relocated. But beyond the fear, life continues and has even blossomed close to these natural wonders. As well as being able to hike up Mount Etna (with a guide), those who would rather take in the views from afar can sample some of Sicily’s fantastic wines at one of the 100-plus-year-old vineyards which cling to the slopes.

Lazy days on the Aeolian Islands

One of my favourite moments during countless visits to Italy was staying on the Aeolian Islands, a cluster of seven inhabited volcanic and dramatic islands. These idylls are reason enough to visit Sicily, as outside of the busy August holidays, they remain something of a lesser-visited Italian destination.

We based ourselves on the largest island of Lipari, sipping spritz overlooking Stromboli’s steaming crater at sunset. It was a delightful place to while away the sunny November days, hopping between some of the other islands, such as Vulcano and Salina, using the local ferries for day trips. Volcanic black sand beaches, beautiful hiking trails, and straight-from-the-boat restaurants were all highlights. If you’re wondering if Sicily alone is worth visiting, then these small scenic detours should be an extra reason to make the trip.

Blissful beaches

Of course, you need not stray to any other Sicilian islands to find gorgeous beaches – the main island boasts plenty and is a beach destination in its own right.. Relax on the silver-screen-worthy sands of Cefalù, a magnificent mediaeval coastal spot packed with beach clubs and backed by impressive architecture – the Cathedral beyond the worthy star – and you’ll soon be besotted.

At Isola Bella, the jewel of Taormina’s coast, you’ll find a gorgeous tombolo leading out into the sparkling turquoise waters, while the more untouched swathes of sand near Noto are ideal for a get-away-from-it-all beach day.

Timeless towns and villages

But there are as many reasons to visit Sicly’s dreamy hilltop hamlets as the island’s shore-hugging towns. From some of Italy’s most beautiful towns, with far-reaching panoramas, to smaller villages tucked-away far from the tourism trail, a road trip across the island will bring you to some truly incredible locations.

Head inland to the Baroque wonders around Val di Noto, where Modica, Ragusa and Noto itself all serve up a timeless atmosphere amongst their re-constructed storied streets. Across the island, Erice, a gorgeous small borghi hugs the slopes, crowned by a Norman castle. Sperlinga is another of Sicily’s ‘most beautiful borghi’ to add to the list, while Piazza Armerina’s cluster of museums makes for a nice afternoon after visiting the mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale.

A chance to reconnect with nature

Sicily has long held a reputation as an inspiring slow travel destination by in-the-know travellers, writers and artists. The emerald green hills, pistachio and vine coated hinterlands, and contrasting colours of the cobalt Tyrrhenian and turquoise Ionian Seas being mystical muses – and that’s before you consider the bewitching and bellowing Mount Etna.

One of the best ways to take it all in and reconnect with nature is on the island’s trails. There’s a network of different routes you can opt for, but the 116-mile, coast-to-coast Magna Via Francigena is a good bet if you’re looking for a ten day option. Crossing from Palermo in the north, to Agrigento in the south you’ll traverse from urban sprawl to dense forests and vineyards, almost forgotten villages with ageing populations, and find shelter at rural guest houses where lakes, mountains and pastures are never far away; the island’s interior is indeed idyllic.

Why visit Sicily, you say? The answer is almost self-explanatory. All of Italy’s best experiences are blended here, a magnificent microcosm of a mighty country.

Take everything you’ve imagined about an Austrian city and throw it out the window. Graz doesn’t have quite the same level of grandeur as Vienna, the classical music culture of Salzburg, or the Alps on its doorstep like Innsbruck, but it does have something else – although it’s hard to quantify what that beguiling something is.

There’s a slightly Mediterranean vibe amongst the pastel-hued courtyards dotted with olive trees. In the pedestrianised city centre, you’ll hear the whirring of trams and the jingle of bicycle bells rather than cars. Some 20 per cent of the population are students, keeping a young soul beating through the old town. A communist mayor – a surprise of the previous election – currently leads the council. And, of course, there are the two UNESCO designations, both for the historic core and the forward-thinking design.

Yes, Graz is an Austrian city of gentle paradoxes. A place where the classics and the contemporary coexist. Where culinary creativity makes you question everything you think you know about Central European cuisine. A city with such a pronounced focus on fresh produce that farm-to-fork restaurants are simply called restaurants, and the stalls at farmers’ markets are as much about the growers as the produce.

At its heart, Graz feels like a city where simply existing is a pleasure. Even before you’ve visited a single attraction or sipped your first glass of Styrian wine, you can’t help but wonder how much better life would be if every city felt this way. It’s green, car-free in its core, and oozes a sense of society, inviting you to linger for much longer than you’ve planned. Surely that makes it the sustainable city break we’re all dreaming of?

Slowed down sustainability

Austria’s second-largest city doesn’t just tout its green credentials; it lives them. Sure, that’s easily boasted in a city that’s 60% green spaces, but sustainability isn’t solely a buzzword here; it seems to be a way of life. From up-cycling shops supporting those struggling on the streets to zero-waste cafes reinterpreting yesterday’s leftovers, the community is as much to thank for the city’s ecological drive as the surroundings.

Offering much more than water refill fountains – although there are plenty of those across the city – the extent of Graz’s Reduce and Reuse mindset became clear to me the second I stepped off my train from South Bohemia in the Czech Republic.

Following some slightly poor packing, I was hunting for warmer trousers. Firing up Google Maps, no less than ten second-hand clothes stores flashed before me, seemingly outnumbering the fast-fashion chain stores that dot every European high street.

Hopping on the tram – free in the city centre – which highlights each journey’s CO2 usage, I quickly realised how walkable and compact the core was. Free from cars, the grand central avenues provide a haven for pedestrians and bicycles to co-exist, occasionally giving way to the regular trams and the city’s new emission-free hydrogen buses.

Graz’s goal to be a walkable city, with everything you need reachable on foot, is well underway, and when strolling the streets is as delightful as it is here, the aim appears much more achievable.

In a city of less than 300,000, where one in five residents is a student, the desire for a clean, climate-focused city has shone through in all recent polling. The Green party has been growing from strength to strength in Graz’s local government, reflecting the resident’s concerns, and countless eco-focused initiatives have been born.

This isn’t the only continent-bucking trend in the local political landscape, though, as the recent surprise election of the city’s first communist mayor – promoting a platform of rent freezes and limiting gentrification – shows. However, it’s far from just being a government-led drive to make Graz a greener, fairer city, with charities, NGOs, partners and local businesses joining forces to form a better and more community-focused place to live.

An old city with a young soul: design, culture and community

With its near millennia-old architectural history, there are plenty of things to do in Graz, and the Old Town ticks many boxes that any historic European city would, even if it frequently has a slight twist.

There’s a grand Opera House, of course, but outside stands a towering modern Statue of Liberty adorned with a sword. Inside, it’s not just the classics on show, but Graz’s continually growing music scene, which has a particular affection for Jazz. Outside the main monuments, smaller statues also stand. Bronze models recreating the attractions in miniature sit on plinths, allowing the visually impaired to ‘see’ the city’s architecture.

Storied streets web the countless courtyards together, with the occasional memorial stone – an ongoing project – sunk into the floor as a reminder of those persecuted or murdered by the Nazis. Those 50-plus historic courtyards, often dotted with wine bars, offer an Italian-esque edge to the city, providing something of a Mediterranean-like labyrinth. You could easily spend a full weekend in Graz hopping between these courtyards.

You’ll also find the most extensive historic armoury in the world here – a testament to the city’s sometimes troubled past – although the enormous dolomite rock standing in the heart of the city provides the most impressive story of a community in the face of invasion.

Serving as both the city’s symbol and a reminder of past residents’ affection for their hometown, the Uhrturm – a short and stump-like clock tower – crowns the city. When Napoleonic troops destroyed the vast Schlossberg fortress that once towered above the Old Town, the residents all came together to pay a ransom to protect their beloved clock tower from the same fate.

While much of the Schlossberg fortress is long gone – as are the stories of those who lived there in the 8th century BC – the elevated green space is endowed with postcard-perfect panoramas. Settle in for a coffee, try and spot the peculiarity with the clock’s hand, and then, you can even take an internal slide back down to the bottom; Graz likes to keep a little fun and not take itself too seriously.

Community, like Graz itself, isn’t just a story of the past. Everything appears to live in harmony here, and with 150 languages spoken in the city and one in five residents being a student, the youthful and aged forge a way forward – significantly helped by the Old Town still being residential and not taken over by holiday rentals.

These changes didn’t just happen overnight; a particular turning point in Graz’s story came in 2003 when it was crowned the European Capital of Culture. No longer did the city just have World Heritage status for the Medieval Old Town, but it was also awarded the UNESCO designation as a City of Design. This accolade celebrates Graz’s design schools, forward-thinking architecture and embrace of modern urban design, making it only the second city on the continent to hold both titles, Berlin being the other.

While you’ll spot the intertwining of contemporary and classic architecture across the city – from the curve-shaped buildings of the late Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid to the aforementioned Statue of Liberty – two of the city’s most futuristic emblems link the grandest part of the city with two lesser-visited neighbourhoods; Lind and Gries.

The ‘other side’

“My grandmother warned me about moving here”, laughs Ruth, my local guide, as we cross the River Mur towards the city’s Lend district.

This was my introduction to ‘The Other Side’, as I often heard it referred to during my visit, which invoked images of some lawless place across the river. As it turns out, this district, Lend, was exactly once that; very much with a facelift nowadays.

Before reaching the heart of this up-and-coming (read: starting to gentrify) district, you’ll encounter two of the city’s most prominent modern architectural feats.

The first, the Murinsel, is an artificial island linked by bridges, originally designed to float on New York City’s Hudson River. Glass and steel walkways fuse Graz’s two sides together, meeting in the middle at a central platform where art is displayed amongst locals lounging with a latte.

Just beyond, the Kunsthaus, the city’s modern art gallery, sticks out like a sore thumb – or a friendly alien – as the locals have affectionately named it. An expansive space of black glass that turns into an LED screen by night, tentacle-like windows crawl out from the rooftop, and contemporary and modern exhibitions inhabit the interior.

These two buildings forever transformed the whole city – at first with much local disdain – but for Lend, they were the start of a catalyst of change.

At first glance, the neighbourhood looks pretty similar to the Old Town. Grand Baroque churches and pastel-hued façades line the thoroughfares, hiding stories of bygone sex work, revelry and crime along the once-historic trade route – and red light district – which linked Vienna with Trieste.

While well-heeled residents from the Old Town no longer avoid the area as they once would, even with the advance of gentrification, it still retains a bit of a reputation for freedom-seekers and creatives.

Nowadays, brothels have been reborn as trendy cocktail bars, organic restaurants serve up cuisines from around the world, and social-impact-focused stores, such as Offline Retail, up-cycle while creating employment opportunities and supporting local communities. It’s been a relatively recent and quick turnaround for Lend, and perhaps the increase in the speed of the change – and rents – can provide an answer to the shock of the recent mayoral elections.

It’s a part of the city you venture to just to enjoy the atmosphere rather than to tick off sights, providing a welcome, and complementary, change of atmosphere to the polished Old Town.

In neighbouring Gries, where gentrification is less noticeable, Ruth tells me you can experience an air of what Lend was like a decade or so ago. With community-focused festivals – I stumbled upon a street party that was founded by a hairdresser many years ago – an active church reimagined with graffiti-style modern art, and so many independent bars, galleries and artisanal stores, enjoying a craft beer here feels like a different Graz than the wine bars of the Old Town.

Farm to fork without the cliché

It was a chilly September afternoon, and the Styrian capital was still desperately trying to cling to Austria’s summer. The scent of pumpkin oil wafted through the lunch hour air while the clinking of glass celebrated the arrival of this year’s Sturm, a still fermenting wine found only during harvest season.

The Styrian countryside, the fertile farmlands that envelop Graz, play a massive part in the city’s status as Austria’s Culinary Capital. However, the bestowed title is far more than a marketing gimmick and leads to a city-wide philosophy of what food should be.

Asking the receptionist at Hotel Gollner – the characterful family-run hotel I was calling home – to recommend some farm-to-fork restaurants, I received a questioning look back. In this city, eating local produce isn’t something to celebrate; instead, the standard. Some vetted establishments are highlighted with the “Genuss Hauptstadt” logo in their window, showing their commitment to quality, local, and seasonal produce. However, these are far from the only dining options living by the ethos.

Take Hummel, for example. A women-led, low-waste concept restaurant in the ever-evolving Lend district. Organic coffee beans and homemade bio jams decorate the restaurant-cum-shop’s shelves, while soft pastel-hued furnishings blend perfectly with the brown recycled napkins on the tables. Unlike the Ottomans of the 17th century, whose advances and invasions in the region certainly weren’t welcome, the table laden with their delicious Levantine-inspired small plates certainly is.

The zero-waste concept becomes clear as I take my first mouthful; it’s too good to leave a single morsel. Of course, the credentials are more defined than that, with the ingredients coming from their packaging-free grocery store Das Gramm. How, I wonder, after a mouthful of cauliflower, can it have absorbed so much flavour and not be complete mush? I decide it’s a feat of engineering rather than cooking and quickly move on to one of the 20 or so other plates. When I leave two hours later, stuffed and smiling like I’ve won the lottery, I spot a ‘reuse bread’ shop across the street, where yesterday’s loaves are given a discount-priced chance at finding their way to another table.

Vegetarians and vegans will also find a foodie utopia here, with countless restaurants dedicated to raw food and organic produce. This concept isn’t just limited to dining out either; even the local schools and government offices have adopted a meat-free day each Wednesday. Eating well in Graz isn’t a chore, nor is good quality food necessarily priced at a premium.

Take fast food – and forget McDonald’s – the quick bites menus in Graz are much more exciting and green. At Swing Kitchen, I tasted the most delicious vegan burger, washed down by a bottle-free refill served in a tin-can cup. Likewise, you won’t find Starbucks here; instead, the go-to is local chain Tribeka for a cup of fair-trade coffee. Even the vending machines offer local produce, while many of the surrounding farms have 24-hour honesty-box style shops to grab last-minute fresh produce.

Straying to the countryside certainly isn’t necessary – although highly recommended – to get a flavour of Graz’s growers’ recent harvest. Farmers’ Markets dot the city, and from Monday to Saturday, the very hands that planted the goodies hawk their ochre pumpkins and rich-red berries, adding a face and spot of friendly banter to the fresh produce.

“What we really like about the market are all those little bars around the edge” Ruth tells me as we sip on a homemade glass of Schilcher, a rosé crafted from grapes indigenous to the region.

“On a summer evening, people meet friends, skate, enjoy music and even take salsa classes,” she continues. “It’s a great place for food and fun.”

While we often visit the markets when travelling to get a sense of a location, here, you’ll get much more than that. You’ll be gifted with a sense of the residents’ pride.

From Moni, a local chef crafting dumplings in her purpose-built kitchen, which distributes to restaurants around the city – keep an eye out for her name on menus – to Helena, a farmer who was making jam when I visited Fattingerhof, an out-of-city buschenschank (rustic farm-based inns) for a bite to eat, pride is something that oozes from Graz’s residents.

Yet, this important ingredient isn’t just in what is produced here; it’s also a passion for preserving the lush landscape for future generations. Whether it was Susanne Huber telling me about her sustainable screen-printed fashion, some using cutting-edge replanted wood-based fabrics at Peaces, or the staff of TAG werk explaining how their trendy recycled backpacks also create youth employment, there was no denying that sustainability was very much a lived goal.

When it’s time to leave – by night train to Italy, following in the city’s green credentials – I recognise that Austria has somehow become one of my favourite countries without really realising it was happening.

If you asked me to tell you why I couldn’t really quantify it beyond how I started this article – Graz is just a wonderful place to exist – and it encapsulates that in a far less pretentious way than other destinations which would rather greenlight, than go forward, with their sustainable ambitions.

My Graz tip? Forget a whirlwind tour of the highlights and settle in for a while; the Styrian people will certainly make you feel welcome, and your stomach will more than thank you.

Plan your trip to Graz, Austria

Ready to explore Austria’s sustainable destination yourself? Check out my in-depth Graz Travel Guide to discover all the top things to do in Graz, where to eat, sleep and shop, and the best ways to get to and around the city and nearby attractions.

Cornwall is the quintessential English seaside getaway. Rousing coastal views, lost-in-time villages, proper fish and chips, and a soundtrack of lapping waves and sprightly birds – it doesn’t get much better than this. But where is the best place to base yourself in Cornwall? That’s a little more complicated.

When I first set off to discover Cornwall’s craggy coves, idyllic villages, and spectacular coastlines, I did it all wrong. Every day, we would drag our cases back to the car for another non-stop whirlwind sightseeing tour, exhaustedly tumbling into bed full of locally brewed beer and freshly caught seafood before repeating it all again the next day.

Sure, we saw a lot. But as I’ve learnt on subsequent return trips, the real magic of this southern region isn’t in how many of Cornwall’s best attractions or beaches you tick off; it’s about embracing the laid-back pace of life. Slowing down to find the tiny back-street pubs where locals chatter, spending hours, not minutes, on your new favourite beach and enjoying a leisurely long lunch gazing out to sea. Just like my home region of Dorset and the Jurassic Coast, Cornwall is best cherished.

Things to consider when picking a base in Cornwall

While Summer is undoubtedly the most popular time to visit South West England, I’ve explored it in all seasons. And the bonus of avoiding those peak months is twofold. Firstly, the crowds disappear in the winter months, as I learnt at my cousins’ St. Ives wedding last January, wandering the enchantingly quiet streets. Secondly, the prices of accommodation and minimum night requirements also dwindle. In July and August, many places require a one-week stay. However, outside of these peak months, companies like Classic Cottages often have more flexible terms, so you can easily stay in a few places without rushing around.

And that’s exactly what I’d suggest doing for your first holiday in Cornwall. Pick two or three bases and spend two to four nights in each spot. While the distances don’t appear that far on the map, the narrow country lanes can often add to the drive time, so having a base to explore the local attractions from before moving on will be handy and minimise the constant packing and unpacking.

Then, to help you decide where is the best base in Cornwall, look at the region geographically as three different coasts. The most visited west, stretching from Portreath to near Falmouth. The south, covering Falmouth to the Devon border. And the North, stretching from Newquay to Bude. Picking a base in each of these regions will usually allow you to see anything you want without a massive drive, and now you just need to narrow down exactly where to stay in Cornwall. Read on for a brief overview of each coast, the best towns and villages to base yourself in, and some other nearby attractions.

Where to stay in West Cornwall?

Penzance

One of the main towns of Cornwall and famed for pirates, the sheltered bay of Penzance is a dreamy base with all the amenities (and pubs) you could wish for, including pretty gardens, history and galleries. For a quirky and historic stay, consider making the Chocolate House your Cornwall base.

St. Ives

Perhaps the poster child for Cornwall, St. Ives charms with its wide beaches and charming cobbled streets and is one of the most popular destinations in England. Accommodation is snapped up quickly here, even outside of the high season, so forward planning is essential. Great food, lots of choices, and the fantastic Tate Museum – you can’t go wrong.

The Lizard Peninsula

Home to the most southerly point in England, this wonderful peninsula still has a proper ‘get away from it all’ vibe. Nature trails, rugged coves, and rock-strewn landscapes make for a great base if you want to escape from the more crowded hotspots, and you’ll find some charming places to stay, like this converted chapel.

Where else to visit in West Cornwall?

Minack Theatre

One of the most incredible spots in Cornwall is this open-air theatre, perched on the edge of a rocky cliff overlooking the ocean. Come and visit for a tour by day, or if you’re in luck, grab tickets to enjoy a show.

Levant Mine

The mining history of Cornwall (and Devon) is UNESCO-listed, and although the industry is well past its heyday if you want to dig a little deeper into the history of the region, then Levant Mine is the place to do it.

The Lizard Peninsula

One of the most beautiful spots to enjoy a leisurely walk in Cornwall, this peninsula is dreamy and full of plenty of picturesque bays, complete with pubs, such as Coverack, to stop and take it all in.

Cornish Seal Sanctuary

Cornwall is home to plenty of seals, and on some beaches, you’ll see them basking on the sand. Here, injured seals and pups are treated until they are ideally well enough to return to the wild – a popular conservation spot and fun for the kids.

Saint Michael’s Mount

Almost a sister of the French counterpart, this tiny island of stone homes is a fun side-trip from the mainland, especially at low tide when it’s the best time to walk the causeway, which links it to the town of Marazion.

Lands End & The Cornish Coastal Path

This dramatic and scenic headland offers some of the best walking trails you can enjoy in Cornwall. The mammoth South West Coastal Path is a huge multi-day trek, but picking some of the trails around here will give you a great taste of it.

Isles of Scilly

Take a short flight or boat and head to the Isles of Scilly, an amazing collection of white-sand beaches that will have you feeling like you’re no longer in the UK!

Where to stay in South Cornwall?

St Austell Bay

One of my favourite places in the country and home to one of my favourite breweries, St Austell town itself is an old market town with good road connections to explore from. The St Austell Bay area and places such as Mevagissey are packed with colourful boats in their harbours and a plethora of seafood restaurants and make for relaxed evenings drinking a pint to lapping waves.

Truro

Cornwall isn’t all about the coast, and inland Truro is a beautiful cathedral town to base yourself at. Especially if you plan to spend your trip focused more on gardens, such as Trelissick, rather than spend most of your trip on the coast.

Falmouth

Packed with plenty to keep everyone entertained, from castles and sheltered bays to museums and tropical gardens, Falmouth, as a large town, promises both a great base and somewhere worthy of its own time to explore.

Where else to visit in South Cornwall?

Eden Project

The fascinating Eden Project, a space beloved by both adults and kids, is home to striking exhibitions, interactive experiences, and plant species from around the world in the domed-shaped enclosed gardens.

Pendennis Castle

Situated on a headland with some stunning beach views, Pendennis Castle is an interesting stop for history lovers. Constructed by Henry VIII, this military fort, still with cannons and plenty to see, is worth visiting.

Swanpool Beach

Post visiting Pendennis, swing by the cute bay beach of Swanpool to enjoy a delicious seafood spread at Hooked on the Rocks restaurant, one of the best meals I’ve ever had in Cornwall.

Lost Gardens of Heligan

I’m not much of a garden person, but the Lost Gardens of Heligan bring a lot to the table. This vast area of manicured plants and woodlands covers some 200 acres, including suspended bridges and moss-coated statues. It is made even more special by the fact that thirty-odd years ago, the gardens were reclaimed by nature, adding an air of intrigue to any visit.

Mevagissey

This charming fishing harbour with colourful boats and fireplace pubs is a detour worth making; if you want to capture Cornwall perfectly in one photo, this is a spot to do it in!

Where to stay in North Cornwall?

Newquay

The premier surf destination of Cornwall, Newquay is one of the best wave-riding adventure spots in the UK. Over the years, it has really grown in popularity, making it very tourist-friendly. There’s an abundance of attractions, restaurants, and beaches. Plus, with decent connections to A-roads, it’s easy to access plenty of other nearby attractions from Newquay.

Port Isaac

This small fishing village is about as picturesque as you can get, and while the sun brings the day-trippers, by night, it feels truly special to have this charming spot to yourself. Pick a cottage with sea views to enjoy the magic, or drive a little further inland to stay in an old converted post office.

Where else to visit in North Cornwall?

Tintagel Castle

While the castle itself has seen better days, this amazing location, complete with bridges suspended between verdant rocks, stair boardwalks, and beautiful beaches, makes this a must-visit. A medieval fortification with legends of King Arthur, it’s a fascinating and majestic place.

Bude Sea Pool

Bude is a charming Cornwall town and a great place to stop for some fish and chips or just a rest from driving. On the coast, the artificial oceanfront lido of Bude Sea Pool is ideal for cooling off whenever the sun does make its UK debut!

Padstow

Another charming and quaint harbour town, Padstow, is especially pretty early morning if the water is still to get a postcard-perfect reflection photo of the stone houses and boats in the harbour. It’s a popular lunch and dinner spot due to Rick Stein’s Fish & Chips restaurant and many other great places to eat in Padstow.

Perranporth, Bedruthan Steps & Fistral Beaches

There are some gorgeous beaches along this stretch of coast, but these three, in particular, stand out. If you only have the time to visit one, I would say opt for Bedruthan Steps. It’s beautiful, and your camera will thank you!

February is one of my favourite months to travel in Europe. Sure, the weather isn’t always reliable, but a surplus of excellent events are scheduled across the continent. From the age-old traditions of February’s lively carnival celebrations and the romantic call of Valentine’s Day abroad to ski slopes stacked with fresh powder and northern lights adventures in the Arctic, narrowing down the list of best places to visit in February in Europe is somewhat of a challenge.

That said, if you want to try and escape the cold, grey, gloomy days at home, there are a handful of warm places to visit in Europe in February, too. During the February half-term break, the middle of the month is also a popular time to see some of Europe’s most family-friendly holiday destinations. Plus, as a bonus, there are also usually plenty of deals to snap up in the off-season away from these significant events.

To help you plan where to go in Europe in February, I’ve split this article into five sections, covering ski and snow, winter sun, romantic escapes, cultured city breaks, and offbeat celebrations. I’ve also avoided generic tips like ‘go to London because it’s less busy’ and instead focused on destinations that have something special happening in February so that you can make your well-timed visit particularly unforgettable.

Best European adventure, aurora, snow and ski destinations in February 2025

For fresh powder lovers, the best European vacations in February take place on the pistes, but skiing isn’t the only activity available this month. Northern lights chasing, snowshoeing, and adventures in the Arctic all abound in the winter climates of the north.

The French Alps

Arguably the most iconic ski destination on the planet, France’s reign as the ultimate place for first-class pistes and après-ski is undisputed. The Auvergne-Rhône-Alpe, with its more than 150 ski and winter sports resorts, has something for everyone — ranging from the most indulgent and luxe properties with direct access to some of Les 3 Vallées best ski runs to more affordable ski passes in Le Semnoz.

France’s slopes are also an excellent February half-term destination as they are quick and easy to reach, either on a short flight to Chambéry, Grenoble or Lyon or by bundling everyone in the car and driving over on the Channel Tunnel. Family-friendly ski resorts are in no short supply, with companies such as Sno having dedicated packages and lodges suitable for children of any age. Some chalets and resorts offer kids’ clubs, teens’ ski schools, or even creches and child care.

Another of the best events in February in Europe happens around the upscale resort of Courchevel, where the Pyrotechnic Arts Festival brightens the skies with fireworks and torchlit evenings (weekly, dates still TBC for 2025).

Nordland, Norway

Norway’s least populated region, Nordland, is perhaps best known for the cinematic Lofoten Islands. Here, the scenery is spectacular in February, when snow coats the dramatic peaks, and Rorbu cabins (traditional fishing huts) add a splash of colour. But there are plenty more winter snow adventures to have in the north of the country, with ski resorts around Narvik and snowshoeing in the Arctic — part of Lapland is also within Nordland’s borders. Best of all, some of Norway’s best long-distance train journeys depart and arrive from here, and the Nordland Travel Pass will allow you to explore the whole region car-free.

But there are a couple of extra reasons why Norland is one of the best places to visit in Europe in Winter 2025. Firstly, the aurora borealis (northern lights) are predicted to be particularly impressive this winter as the 12-year Solar Cycle is expected to peak in 2024/2025, meaning as long as there is a clear evening, the sky should put on a proper show pretty regularly – as we’ve even seen in southern Europe in recent years.

Secondly, the remote city of Bodø was one of the EU Capitals of Culture 2024 — the first time any city in the Arctic has been given the title — and although the year-long Bodø2024 program of cultural events will have ended, the city will still be riding high on the buzz.

Tyrol, Austria

The Austrian Alps are where winter comes alive, and with snow adventures and skiing being two of the best things to do in Austria, February is a fantastic time to visit this mountainous and scenic region. There is a huge array of ski resorts in this corner of Austria, ranging from famous slopes around Ischgl and Serfaus to more beginner-friendly runs at Kitzbühel. Cross-country skiing is also possible, while the younger ones have plenty of sledging opportunities.

February’s charm isn’t just fresh snow; the Tyrol region is laden with history and tradition. As with many other European countries in February, carnival time adds colour to the otherwise white landscapes. The Tirolean Carnival parades take place in most towns, and you can expect plenty of traditional dress alongside costumes of witches and wooden masks. Some of Tyrol’s best carnival events only occur every 3 or 4 years. In 2025, it’s the turn of Schleicherlaufen in Telfs on February 2nd – the next Imst Schemenlaufen will be in 2026 – one of the Alps’ most important masked parades, which is inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list. As these events only happen every four years, it’s worth trying to attend if you’re in Austria in February.

If you just want a short and quick getaway, consider a long weekend in Innsbruck. One of the best cities in Europe to visit in February for a ski holiday, thanks to its proximity to the mountains, there are also enough museums and cultural attractions to fill at least one day. From Innsbruck, you’re also well-placed for some intense snow-covered treks in Karwendel Nature Park.

Where to go in February in Europe for Valentine’s Day

With Valentine’s Day falling on a Friday in 2025, it’s perfectly timed for a romantic weekend getaway – a city break on one of the weekends is surely better than a bunch of roses. You could pick from any of the more romanticised cities on the continent, such as Paris, Florence or Prague. Or, you could plan where to go in Europe in February for Valentine’s Day around one of these awesome annual events instead.

Côte d’Azur, France

Paris might be France’s most obvious choice for a Valentine’s Day getaway, but if you want to turn your romantic trip into a week-long vacation, then a luxury visit to the French Riviera might be the perfect answer.

Best known for glamour, film festivals, pretty pastel-hued homes and one of Europe’s smallest countries, Monaco, there is no shortage of first-class restaurants and romantic resorts to steal away along the shoreline. However, a few of France’s best events are scheduled in the south during February, and I’d highly recommend you make your visit to the Côte d’Azur even more special by planning it around one of these.

Perhaps the most famous is Nice Carnival (15th February to 2nd March 2025), one of the world’s biggest, where this upscale seaside resort comes alive with parades –the illuminated nighttime procession is particularly fantastic– flower battles and general revelry. The ridiculously attractive town of Menton, closer to the Italian border, also holds a big annual bash, the Fête du Citron, on the same dates. This Lemon Festival is a flamboyant and almost fantasy affair where the colours and flavours of citrus fruits set the stage for parades, artisan stores, and local produce tasting. Lastly, there’s also the short but sweet Fête du Mimosa (12th – 16th February), anchored around the blossoming of the locally beloved Mimosa trees, over Valentine’s Day itself.

Venice, Italy

One of the most obvious choices for a romantic city break, Venice is certainly one of the best places to visit for Valentine’s Day — but I’m thinking about the magic of one of the world’s greatest carnivals. Sadly, this year, the Venice Carnival starts a little later (22nd February – 4 March 2025), but that’s an excellent reason to postpone your romantic Valentine’s weekend by one week.

Dating back to the 12th century (although some reports believe it was informally established some 200 years before), Venice Carnival has long been one of the greatest festivals on the planet, packed with colour, glam, debauchery and secrets — often concealed behind those fabled Venetian masks, which also date back to the Middle Ages. Nowadays, it’s a mix of grand and opulent ticket-only balls, street performers, competitions and parades. So why not whisk your loved one away for a visit to Venice in February to celebrate in this city of romance?

If you’d prefer another nearby romantic alternative, then consider Verona, the city of Romeo and Juliet, where Valentine’s Day is also a huge celebration. With many romantic and memorable things to do in Italy, there is no shortage of February city breaks to choose from.

Sitges, Spain

Sitges is one of Europe’s most gay-friendly destinations, making it an excellent and safe place for the LGBTQ+ community to celebrate Valentine’s Day. One of the oldest carnivals in Catalonia, huge parades, costumes and crowds descend on this seaside town, breaking its winter hibernation in the most kaleidoscopic way. However, this year, events are starting later in February. There are two big parades, with the second being on the 25th of February, 2025 — ideally for partying into Valentine’s Day proper — and the main LGBTQ+ clubs and bars host their own parties throughout the week.

Away from the celebrations (although it’s nearly impossible to avoid them), you’ve got a couple of fantastic museums, such as Cau Ferrat, sea-view restaurants, and a cute if small Old Town to visit. Of course, one of Sitges’ main draws is the beach, and while it isn’t one of the warmest places to visit in February in Europe, you might get lucky with some sunny days to top up your tan.

Best European cities to visit in February

When putting together my picks of the best cities in Europe in February, I’ve focused on destinations with annual events scheduled, the food and bar scene is strong (for those colder nights), and enough museums or cultural attractions to keep you busy in case of some showers. If you want affordable food and drink with better chances of blue skies, then consider Valletta (Malta), Lisbon (Portugal), or Chania (Crete, Greece). However, consider these three northern European cities if you don’t mind a chill.

Vilnius, Lithuania

Vilnius’s tagline as the 2025 EU Green Capital is “the greenest city in the making”. Come in February, though, and chances are high that you’ll see it sparkling under a light coat of white snow. With temperatures at the start of the month usually hovering around 0°c (32°F), you’ll want to pack your warmest winter clothes. The reward? An off-season, crowd-free and affordable visit to Lithuania’s capital when plenty of cultural events feature on the city’s February calendar.

Lithuanian cuisine is some of my favourite, with heartwarming Cepelinai potato dumplings, delicious mushroom soups – the national famous Pink Soup is cold, so not ideal for winter – and plenty of berry-infused teas to keep you warm. Head to one of the many cavernous underground restaurants to avoid the outside chill. For craft beer fans, Zmogsala Beerfest, on the 8th of February 2025, is worth planning around while the SU-MENĖK art festival spotlights the city’s creative scene throughout February. Come on the 16th of February, when Vilnius celebrates one of the nation’s Independence days, the State Restoration, and you’ll experience processions, a bonfire, and plenty more.

Brussels, Belgium

Highly underrated, many people expect to find a sterile and bureaucratic Belgian city when they first visit Brussels, but in reality, it’s anything but. The country’s capital has excellent cuisine on nearly every street corner with global gastronomy well represented; the nation’s penchant for first-class craft beers ensures that the bars are tempting even on cold winter nights; and the city’s collection of celebrated cultural institutions, galleries and museums can fill countless rainy days. Plus, who doesn’t love Belgian chocolate?

As an added bonus for visiting this European city in February, you’ll also be treated to the Bright Festival of Lights, which runs from the 13th to 16th February 2025. Installations from local and international artists bring incredible illuminations to some of the city’s most prominent landmarks, giving a magical life to the otherwise cold nights.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Chic Copenhagen is one of the best European city breaks in February, thanks to the Vinterjazz festival (30th January – February 23rd 2025) bringing something extra to this already cultured city. For over three weeks, multiple concerts can be appreciated in various venues, ranging from chilly open-air performances to impressive contemporary concert halls. There are only a few free events, so you’ll want to scan the schedule to book tickets in advance.

Alongside the jazz concerts, you can still cram plenty into a two-day weekend visit to Copenhagen. Some 50-odd excellent museums offer plenty of respite from any showers, with a few, such as the standout SMK Art Museum, easily occupying half a day. If opulent halls and royal history are more your thing, then the city’s handful of palaces and castles are sure to impress, while iconic sights such as the colourful 17th-century Nyhavn Canal and overrated Little Mermaid statues round off any visit.

Of course, another bonus of visiting after Christmas and before the popular summer season is that accommodation prices are usually lower. Other ways to cut costs in Denmark are to consider hostels (there are plenty of trendy, private room options), take a Copenhagen free walking tour (don’t forget to tip), get the Copenhagen Card and take the Havnebussen rather than a canal tour.

Warm European destinations in February for winter sun

If you’re wondering where to go in Europe in February for sun, then my suggestions of the best warm European destinations in January — the Algarve, Malta and the Canary Islands — still apply. However, February brings a few more excellent choices, with huge carnivals under (hopefully) blue skies being the main reason I’ve chosen them. And given how even the warmest winter destinations in Europe can’t guarantee endless blue days, at least if you get unlucky with some worse-than-expected weather, you’ll have these unforgettable cultural experiences to cherish instead.

Andalucia (or Tenerife), Spain

Spain’s southern Andalucia region is one of mainland Europe’s warmest winter destinations, with February temperatures in Seville often reaching 17°C (62°F) in the daytime. Still, the odd shower and chilly evenings are to be expected, but thankfully, by night, you can warm up with the region’s incredible area of carnival celebrations.

No matter where you decide to visit in this passionate region, you’ll likely find a party. Some of the most famous festivals are the huge and often humorous street party of Cadiz Carnival (27th February – 9th March 2025), which lasts well over a week, the similarly grand Málaga Carnival (22nd February – 2nd March 2025), which dates back hundreds of years, and the Carnaval Colombino in lesser-visited Huelva. It’s a great time to plan a road trip through Andalucia to soak up the region’s culture of tapas, flamenco, and Islamic architecture, as prices and crowds can be thin along the coast, stopping at the parties along the way.

But if you want to be a part of the biggest February festivities in Spain, then you’ll need to head to Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, for the Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Flamboyant in all ways, this fifteen-day event consumes the island’s capital, and it comes with an added bonus: the temperatures are even warmer down here due to being closer to the Sahara than Spain proper. This year, events start in January and ends on the 9th March, 2025.

Madeira, Portugal

With an almost year-round spring climate, the autonomous Portuguese archipelago of Madeira is one of Europe’s warmest destinations in February. Daytime temperatures around 16°C (61°F) are fairly common, though with the odd shower here and there and chilly evenings, an umbrella and jacket are still advised. Whether your February aim is to try and catch some winter sun, swim in natural pools formed from lava, or hike some of Portugal’s most impressive mountain trails above the clouds, you’ll find it all here.

Just be warned, unlike many of Europe’s best beach destinations, the majority of the beaches on Madeira are pebbly or volcanic sands. If you want the more typical golden sands on your doorstep, then you’ll need to take the two-hour ferry to Porto Santo, Madeira’s little sister, where a golden beach stretches out as far as the eye can see. With little tourism on this secondary island in the offseason, the hotels that do remain open year-round often offer great value deals.

However, as with many other destinations listed, Madeira’s February highlight is the start of the island’s two-week-long carnival (26th February – 9th March 2025). Expect plenty of flower-themed costumes and colourful dancers washed back with the local Madeira wine or poncha (a typical sugarcane rum drink) across the island. However, the most significant celebrations are in Funchal, the capital city.

Cyprus

Technically located in Western Asia, the Mediterranean nation of Cyprus is nonetheless considered one of the warmest places to visit in Europe in February. With a mild winter climate — temperatures are often around 15°C (59°F) with a mix of sunny and cloudy days in February — it’s a fairly reliable bet for a bit of winter sun if not a full beach holiday.

Across this beautiful island, you’ll find some spectacular shorelines, beaches and bays. And not only are the island’s golden sands and turquoise waters pretty, if slightly chilly, but there are plenty of attractions to keep you entertained if rain showers do appear. From the ancient archaeological attractions of Pahos — such as the 4th-century BC Tombs of the Kings — to the border-defining city of Nicosia’s museums, Cyprus’ best attractions are varied and fascinating.

February also has another compelling reason to visit Cyprus: the carnival. Commencing around the middle of the month, you’ll find celebrations in plenty of towns and villages. Two of the biggest are in Paphos, which culminates in a grand parade (dates TBC), and Limassol (20th of February – 2nd March of 2025), renowned for its eating, dancing, and all-round revelry.

More ‘offbeat’ places to go in February 2025 in Europe

Ending on my favourite topic of visiting Europe’s most underrated cities and towns, here are a few more of my personal recommendations of where to go in Europe in February that are often criminally overlooked.

The Ore Mountains, Germany

If you didn’t make it to Germany’s festive markets in December, fear not; Christmas in Saxony continues into early February. The huge markets in the likes of Dresden will be long gone, but head into the snow-carpeted Ore Mountains (Erzgebirge in German) in Saxony for a few days leading up to the 2nd of February 2025, and you’ll still be able to shop Christmas ornaments, sip on glühwein and enjoy traditional events. It’s on this date that the region celebrations Lichtmess, or Candlemass, and in the pretty towns of Olbernhau and Zwönitzer, at 6 pm sharp, the “Lights Out” festival sees all the lights – Christmas and others – turned off, only a sea of people clutching candles now illuminating the town.

This East German region loves traditions, and the town of Seiffen is practically Santa’s Workshop year-round, with nearly all the boutiques focused on crafting stars, angels, decorations, candles and traditional wooden toys throughout the year. It’s especially great in December when old mining traditions come alive, but come at the tail end of January and stick around until February 2nd’s Lights Out to have a Christmassy experience at a snippet of the price. In 2025, the city of Chemnitz and the Ore Mountains will be one of two European Capitals of Culture, giving even more reasons to visit – check out the seasons’ events calendar ahead of your trip to see what’s on.

Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Like many of the most popular places to visit in Bosnia & Herzegovina, Sarajevo’s tourism is often discussed in conversations about war. And while the country’s capital certainly has stories of horror to convey, I believe it’s important we don’t just visit cities because of their past, but also to see and learn from their blossoming future — modern Sarajevo is both a fascinating mix of cultures, religions and traditions, but also a forward-looking city of trendy coffee houses, galleries and festivities.

What makes it one of the best European cities to visit in February for an offbeat break is the Sarajevo Winter Festival (starting on the 7th of February 2025), which has a packed programme from early February into mid-March. One of the annual cultural highlights in Bosnia & Herzegovina, you’ll find art exhibitions, literary events, concerts, theatre and opera performances both within the city’s cultural institutions but also in the nearby Olympic Mountains — the festival was actually first launched as part of their turn hosting the winter games. For an insight into this country’s culture often skipped by travellers, this February event makes for an ideal time to visit.

Outside of the programmed events, you’ve got one of the most engrossing cities in Europe to explore. Do take time to learn about the country’s recent and hard-to-process history at the Museum Of Crimes Against Humanity And Genocide, and of course, you’ll likely want to learn more about the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which triggered the start of World War One. But away from this haunted past, delve into the city’s medley of architecture — there are glorious mosques and Islamic-style touches inside Vijećnica (Town Hall) — and explore the ever-growing cafe culture, take it all in from the Yellow Fortress high above, and get lost in the bazaar of Baščaršija. You can even hit the slopes for a fraction of France’s prices in the resorts beyond the city limits.

Durham, England

If you’re wondering where to go in Europe in February without flying abroad, why not plan a UK staycation a bit closer to home and head to Durham during the half-term holidays? Stacked with important historical sites, such as Durham Castle and Cathedral — both of which have major Harry Potter vibes — alongside a decent energy and selection of affordable restaurants thanks to the student-heavy population, it’s one of my favourite destinations in England.

But the top two reasons to visit Durham in February are for the annual Fire & Ice event (28th of February and 1st March 2025), when the city is decorated by interactive displays, frozen statues, and dusk fires blazing for a couple of days. Secondly, the impressive open-air Beamish Museum hosts a dedicated February half-term programme for kids, which shows bygone eras in reconstructed towns and houses with actors and real-life rattling trams.

If you’re up in Scotland and don’t fancy crossing the border, you might want to plan a visit to Aberdeen instead for the SPECTRA Festival of Light (6th to 9th February 2025), which illuminates the gorgeous cobbled streets and modern corners of this often unsung Scottish city.

If Christmas were a place, I imagine it would look a lot like this. Behind me, the windows of multicoloured wooden cottages are glowing in soft, golden candlelight; to my right, row-upon-row of shops selling homemade festive decorations and gifts have been hard at work since the last time Santa came to town; and beyond, snow-coated mountains carry the stories of miners’ festive traditions. Seiffen may be but a mere speck on Germany’s map, but when it comes to Christmas, this teeny town is as much a seasonal staple as Mariah Carey, mulled wine and twinkling fir trees.

Far from the over-commercialised Santa Villages in Lapland and the charming-yet-crowded German Christmas Markets, Seiffen, tucked away in Saxony’s Ore Mountains, is everything the festive season should be. Woodworkers craft toys as they have for centuries. Miners’ traditions dictate dining and underground celebrations. And Christmas markets have enough glühwein and glee to keep even the most die-hard festive travellers giddy.

But unlike most other festive markets that pop up in the last week of November and disappear by early January, Seiffen feels timeless in its dedication to Yuletide — mainly because it is. Here, Christmas isn’t just for Christmas; it’s a year-round affair of all things festive. And for those who make the detour from the region’s favoured Dresden Christmas Markets, you’ll find yourself in a real-life fairytale pop-up book.

Detours from Dresden

Leaving a long weekend in Dresden of Christmas markets and perhaps one too many glühweins behind, I set off south towards the Ore Mountain. It only takes a little over an hour to drive to Seiffen, snuggled by the Czech border, but there was one important festive stop en route I couldn’t miss: the Nussknackermuseum.

As much a Germany Christmas component as stollen and stockings, the iconic soldier-like Nutcrackers have been a part of the nation’s folklore for centuries. In the small village of Neuhausen — a cluster of forest-enveloped homes and a 12th-century white-as-snow castle — the Löschner family have been collecting these practical and pretty wooden tools for over fifty years. Inside their award-winning dedicated museum, a 6000-strong assemblage of nutcrackers is on display, including the largest functional nutcracker in the world.

Alongside the vast collection of nutcrackers, which hail from all corners of the globe, other festive oddities feature, such as the world’s largest music box and a kid-friendly witch’s house. It’s a fitting location for these detailed dolls to find a home, as it was here in the Erzgebirge region (the German name for the Ore Mountains) that the German Nutcracker was born. The story goes that in the 17th century, a farmer wanted an easier way to crack open nuts, and while various options were proposed by the locals — such as shooting or sawing them — it was a puppet maker who created the now-famous dolls to aid the farmer in enjoying his nuts with ease.

Welcome to Seiffen, where Christmas is a year-round affair

Arriving in Seiffen after a scenic drive through the first snowfall of the year, I instantly felt like a kid in a chocolate factory. There was something ‘authentic’ about the festive atmosphere here. Of course, the numerous retail stores were clearly not handing out their goods for free like Santa would fill stockings, but it felt far from the commercialised version of Christmas I had expected.

Perhaps it’s because many of the age-old traditions that are abundant in the Ore Mountains still cling to their roots. It was the miners’ who made these towns — both figuratively and literally — some 700 years ago when the first excavations of the region’s mineral-rich rock began. The industry started to collapse in the 1700s and died its final death in the mid-19th century, leading skilled workers to start using their craftmanship in other ways. Turning their talent to woodcraft, they had no idea that in the future, Seiffen would become known as Spielzeugdorf (the Toy Village), making it one of Europe’s best winter destinations.

But while the act of mining was abandoned, I’d quickly learn that the mines themselves and the ingrained Christmas traditions were not. Every year, traditional miners’ bands trace protected parade routes, return underground for concerts, and dish up the dishes that were once longed for after an intensive period deep in the quarries.

Christmas concerts by candlelight

Armed with a hard hat and torch, a formally dressed trombone player signals the entrance of the Herkules-Frisch-Glück Mine. Following in the footsteps of the first workers who inaugurated the mine back in 1705, I dutifully enter the subsurface tunnel. Damp walls and dimly lit tree trunks lead the way for some 500 metres until the warmth of a candlelit cave wraps around me. Hundreds of naked flames flicker in all corners, precariously balanced on the hacked rockface. Quickly, a glühwein and a slice of bread laden with goose fat are passed my way.

Arguably, of all the old miners’ traditions that have been purposefully preserved, the Mettenschicht is the most special, and I instantly feel grateful that I’d arranged a ticket ahead of time. Harking back to days of yore, the Mettenschicht was the customary celebration of the last shift before Christmas, when the gruelling days would wrap up earlier than usual. Workers would come together to enjoy a festive end-of-year send-off with traditional treats, music and merriment.

Continued until this day, albeit in a more performative form, mining associations across the Ore Mountains host these recreations in the lead-up to Christmas. As we settle into our seats, excitement brews as we’re about to be treated to a show as it would have been back in the day: religious readings, brass band performances, and heavenly hymns reverberating from the unique acoustics.

While much of the humour that’s causing considerable chortling in the cave goes over my head due to the language barrier, the experience is still outstanding. Following a particularly angelic performance by a solo candle-lit choir boy, the audience roars, rising for a standing ovation. Apparently, I was the only out-of-towner who had attended today’s show, and I was now facing much fascination about what had brought me to this underground world, a plethora of suggestions of how to fill my days in Seiffen unfurling.

Traditional Ore Mountain’s feasts and hospitality

Back above ground, the winter night was closing in, chaperoned by a fresh flurry of snow. But the day’s taste of the old miners’ life was far from above; an end-of-work extravaganza was just the start of their Christmas celebrations.

Once tools had been downed and the miners were reunited with their loved ones, a Christmas Eve homecoming feast would be awaiting. Known as the Neinerlaa Dinner, the nine-course menu was an indulgent banquet, certainly a welcome sight for those who were accustomed to simple meals underground. Tonight, it was my turn to sample this tempting table — all in the name of tradition, of course.

As each dish arrived, I was taken not just on a tasting tour but also on one of old beliefs. Each of the Neinerlaa plates holds a different meaning, ranging from ensuring health and wealth to change and grain. Only the mother of the house is allowed leftovers on her plate; if anyone else leaves even a morsel, good fortune for the next year wouldn’t be guaranteed.

Bratwurst, dumplings, sauerkraut and roasted goose legs laden the table one by one — with celery, salt, bread and blueberries also being essential items to ensure the fulfilment of dreams in the year to come. Eager not to give myself a post-Christmas curse, I polish off every last bite. By bedtime, I’m still bursting. Thankfully, my cosy room is just a short crawl upstairs.

In the family-run Hotel Erbgericht Buntes Haus, the hospitality is as delicious as the restaurant’s dishes. Literally translated to ‘Colourful House’, the accommodation doesn’t disappoint. Canary yellow and azure hallways are adorned with playful, festive toys sitting outside each bedroom, while the whole place is kitted out like a Christmas card. From my street-facing room, I peer out on the mini Christmas market below, where bobble hats and scarves crowd around warming flames. Flicking off the lights, I fall asleep to the jingle of festive tunes and the scent of mulled wine wafting through the window.

Woodwork workshops and open-air history

The next morning, eager to learn a little more about Seiffen’s woodwork story, I set off to the slightly out-of-town Erzgebirgisches Freilichtmuseum. With a fresh coat of snow on the ground, the open-air museum of traditional workshops housed in fourteen adorable wooden homes could feature on any Christmas card.

Pushing the door of the noisest cabin ajar, I half expect to see an army of Santa’s elves hard at work scanning children’s scribbled letters and crafting made-to-order gifts. But there were no supernatural creatures to be seen. Inside stood only one man, a vast array of tools, and a flurry of wooden chips raining down like an industrial-sized snow globe.

Seemingly oblivious to my arrival, he continues staring intently at a fast-rotating wooden wheel. I don’t mind at all; I’m enthralled by his concentration. His hands guide the timber, which spins faster than my eyes can calculate. Suddenly, a chisel appears, and as an exhausted-sounding machine shudders to a halt, another piece of what will clearly be a complicated puzzle is complete.

We exchange pleasantries, and I quickly learn that while no elves or folklore are powering these single-man factories, these methods are nearly as rare as mythical characters. The artisan explains that he is one of only eight Ore Mountain Reifendrehen (ring turners) who still retains the skills, knowledge and (perhaps most importantly) the will to continue crafting toys in the most traditional of ways; I had unknowingly been watching another masterclass in old miners’ traditions.

Letting the gentleman return to work, my gaze lingers long enough to border on awkward. The smell of wood that accompanies every new shaving is intoxicating, and as each newly completed piece is laid out on the table opposite, I feel like a kid opening multiple advent calendar windows all at once. Of course, crafting toys and decorations in a method like this is no quick-fix job. To see the finished product, I must head to another showroom.

The Christmas Toy Town

Returning to Seiffen, I dip inside the Spielzeugmuseum. The festive space is as much a testament to how the miners adapted following the closures of the pits as the toys themselves. Housing a collection of countless playthings spanning more than a century, some of the very first wooden objects produced in the Ore Mountains in a post-mining economy are proudly on display.

Seiffen’s road to becoming the Christmas Toy Town wasn’t always set in Ore, though. Initially, the Reifendrehen’s work was far more practical. Bowls, spoons, and various kitchen objects — and even a whole church, as I’d discover later — were the first items produced in the almost-forgotten town’s workshops. By the mid-18th century, well-versed hands were able to craft much more intricate items from the region’s endless bounty of tree trunks, and in a town where Christmas had always been hallowed, toys became the go-to.

Farmsets of all proportions, spinning wheels, and matchboxes hiding the teeniest of sets of wooden toys all feature, doubling as a reminder of how much both gifts and toys, but the essence of Christmas itself, has shifted in the previous decades. Toymaking is as ingrained in Seiffen’s DNA, and over time, more and more German festive staples set up shop here.

Where angels get their wings

A few doors down, the windows of Wendt & Kühn-Figurenwelt tempt me inside. In the centre of the store, a life-size music box spins, angels and Christmas figures slowly twirling by. Behind, courtesy of the plaques on display, I quickly get a history lesson.

Since 1923, these iconic angels have become a cherished favourite, and even collectable, of not just Germans but international audiences. The very first version that was produced by the family-founded business, the Eleven Dot Angel, was designed by Grete Wendt herself — a noted business achievement for a woman in the male-dominated mining days.

Clearly, the company has expanded its offerings and angel iterations since, yet the excited shoppers around me still seem to fixate on the original, green-winged, white-dotted angels who were strung throughout the store, peacefully floating while waiting for their new home atop the Christmas tree.

The miners’ mountain church

Just before leaving Seiffen, I pay a visit to the town’s beloved Bergkirche, expecting the small house of worship to have its doors bolted. Yet today was my lucky day; the warden was around and happy to show me around.

Had I not known the history of this curiously octagonal-shaped church, I would have likely skipped town without stopping for a peek. By European standards, it’s not much to look at, yet as with many places in the Ore Mountains, it comes with a hardworking and heartwarming story.

This church played such a central part in Seiffen’s life that it’s been upgraded numerous times since its inception. And while it’s sat in this position for centuries, and the original rectangular building and then Baroque decor has gone, new additions and iterations have been added and adapted over the years.

As with the Toy Museum, much of what you see today is courtesy of the freshly out-of-work miners’ who turned their time and attention to upgrading the place where their quarterly church service, which allowed them to return home from the mines briefly, was held. Each new addition proudly states the date and year it was added, and it seems a fitting place to bid Seiffen farewell as I continue deeper into the Ore Mountains.

In search of scents

Tracking the Czech border for around an hour, I resist the temptation to turn right towards Annaberg — apparently, it’s home to one of the region’s most adorable Christmas Markets — and continue to the small village of Sehmatal-Neudorf instead; my nose had a date to attend.

Around the same time as woodwork was going mainstream in Seiffen, a young man in Neudorf was growing his own creative ideas in the face of an economic crisis. In the 1930s, the first HUSS Incense Cones (Räucherkerzen) were sold, but sadly the business faltered not long after. Fast forward some 50-odd years, and Jürgen Huss, grandson of the inventor, decides it’s time to rebirth the family business and resume the production of these fine charcoal and resin-formed incense sticks back where it all started.

Stepping into the workshop, the aromas hit me faster than a snowball. An eager voice encourages me to get my nose close to the nearly all-natural ingredients laid out in bowls on the soot-stained desk. I breathe in the scent of honey and villa alongside smells I can’t quite establish and simply declare them as ‘festive’.

Soon, a talented Räucherkerzen maker appears. Rolling up his sleeves, he gets to work. It’s all a bit like cooking; ingredients are weighed and measured into a bowl, mixed and kneaded, and then rolled into tubes and sliced like potato tots. The final seconds are spent shaping the conical point, which I’m informed — between fast-paced thumb-pinching —will burn for longer. In just a few minutes, a box worth is lined up on the table in front of me.

Having perhaps slightly overestimated my abilities, I’d signed up for the workshop to make my own box of cones to bring home with me — how hard could it really be? Well, my answer slowly came in a cluster of misshaped bullet-like lumps I embarrassingly forced into the packet; my family back home was now destined to receive a slightly less personal but much more presentable set of cones from the gift shop instead.

Continuing to Chemnitz

The final stop on my Saxony Christmas tour is Chemnitz, which is scheduled to coincide with a huge miner’s parade. Considered one of the best places to visit in Saxony at Christmas, the region’s third-largest city was nearly decimated in WWII. This created a forward-thinking collection of architecture around the reconstructed historic core, one of the reasons the defacto capital of the Ore Mountains is now destined to be the European Capital of Culture in 2025.

Fittingly, many of the city’s windows were decorated in Schwibbögen, a typical arched candle holder that reflects the shape of a cave. Traditionally, these glowing beacons served as a calling light at each home’s window, signalling for the miners to return home for Christmas. And on the eve of the first Sunday in Advent, that’s exactly what happens — the typical call of the hymn “Glück auf, der Steiger kommt“, signalling the start of this age-old tradition.

I jostled amongst the crowds which lined Chemnitz streets two or three deep. Everyone’s enthusiastic to witness the numerous mining associations from across the Ore Mountains reuniting for a march through the city. Dressed up the nines in matching uniforms, the show starts quickly, as brass bands and drums echo throughout the historic centre. With some 1000-plus marchers bringing festive cheer to a still snowless Chemnitz, the parade lasts well over two hours.

Post-parade, I’m keen to make the most of my last moments in the Ore Mountains and hunt for a final few gifts from the city’s Christmas Market. Coating the whole central square, it’s grander than Seiffens yet more restrained than those in Dresden.

After an hour strolling between stalls, a family-friendly Ferris Wheel, and a slightly out-of-place pyramid, I take respite on the top floor of the city’s department store — the cafe has decent views across the market and Chemnitz’s remaining historic buildings.

Spotting the time, I realise my sleigh (or rather, high-speed train) will soon whisk me back to Berlin and onwards to a decidedly unfestive Portugal — but still, thirty minutes is enough time for one last glühwein, right?