Category: Travel

  • Adelaide to Melbourne Road Trip: The Extended Great Ocean Road

    Adelaide to Melbourne Road Trip: The Extended Great Ocean Road

    The Adelaide to Melbourne drive (or vice versa) is most famous for the Great Ocean Road. Yet, beyond the famous limestone cliffs, there waits a weird big lobster, plenty of penguins, some whales, and a crazy sinkhole.

    I’ve completed most of this road trip twice now, and it’s one of my favourite ways to spend 4-7 days in Australia. The rugged cliff roads, clear waters and windy walks make for a killer introduction to both Victoria and South Australia. Being able to cross a state border in this vast country is no mean feat and just another reason to grab some mates and a cool box of beers and head off on the tourist trail of the land down under.

    Adelaide to Melbourne campervan rental
    Getting a car is one option for this route, and I have done it both ways. Personally, I am a total convert to the Van Life after living in Big Bertha, pictured below, and enjoying the luxury of not one but two double beds wherever I go. (This is the Britz Voyager model).

    It should be noted that on a fair chunk of this route you can’t wild camp, so to be legal, you will have to pay for a campsite (although the odd free one may be available), Something to factor into your trip cost.

    I loved my Britz Camper rental, and being the only camper company I have used in NZ/Australia, they are my recommendation. They usually have a sale, which means no one-way fees; they make their own campers, so you know it’s good if anything does happen to go wrong, and the slightly out-of-the-city locations make pick up/drop off a no-traffic easy sailing.

    If you decide to opt for car hire, we used Thrifty, which was a decent-priced option.

    How long is the drive from Adelaide to Melbourne

    Technically, if you go inland, you can do it in about nine hours, but along the coastline will be longer. But don’t be a speedy fool; slow down and enjoy one of the best drives in Australia.

    This is one of the quicker of Australia’s great drives, which leaves you plenty of time to tackle some others, such as the stunning Broome to Darwin road trip in lesser-explored Western Australia.

    I did it over four days the first time which the below with accommodation stops covers, the second time I had a few days in the Bellarine Peninsula first coming the other way. I’ve done it with family and friends, and it’s awesome either way, but sadly, most of my photos got stolen along with my camera, so excuse the slightly crappy Facebook upload images on this.

    Anyway, let’s go!

    Cuties in Cleland Wildlife Park

    Adelaide

    All I can say about Adelaide is this: It gets a fairly bad rep as not having too much to offer, but I liked the vibe here. It’s kind of gritty yet kinda cool, yet not so much going on. It’s a good place just to spend a couple of down days kicking back, having some beers and chilling out, especially if you’ve just got off a super long train trip on The Ghan. I wish I had spent enough time here to write some more details, but luckily, this post is about getting from Adelaide to Melbourne and not the city itself, so let’s get this road trip started…

    Cleland Wildlife Park

    Before I first came to Australia, I thought there would be Kangaroos and Koalas everywhere. After four days of driving through the East Coast and exploring all the best things to do in Queensland, I’d only seen a few dead ones (road kill, they are seen as pests over here). Cleland Conservation Park is, therefore, a great place with a guarantee of seeing them. This protected park is just outside Adelaide’s city centre and an excellent spot to start your Adelaide to Melbourne road trip.

    One of the best days of my life!

    Fleurieu Peninsula

    Once you’ve had your wildlife fix, follow the road along the Fleurieu Peninsula to the first slice of coast you will get on this road trip. If you want to do some boozing, then turn off to the McLaren Wine Region, although I kept my slice of vineyards for the Bellarine wineries at the end of the trip.

    Sunsets at Lake Albert

    Lake Albert / Meningie

    The freshwater body of Lake Albert attracts a lot of pelicans, which, for me, was the main draw. It’s always quite impressive because it’s not a calm lake at all, thanks to the inflow of water from nearby Lake Alexandrina. If you are into birds and feel like nothing is around, here is your spot.

    Meningie is the only major town (cough, population approx 1000) on the Lake, and while we opted to crash here for the first night to see the sunset, it was a bit of a disaster, as explained in my non-accommodation recommendations below.

    To Camp: Lake Albert Caravan Park has an impressive stop on the lake to set up camp, watch the pelicans and sink a few cold ones to an awesome sunset. Job done.

    Upgrade: The place I stayed at here was perhaps the worst accommodation I have ever slept in. My mum booked it based on the views and not the god-awful Trip Advisor reviews. After falling asleep fully clothed on top of the bed because I assumed I would get some kind of disease, I awoke covered in hundreds of dead flies… So yeah, I have no recommendation at all for this place.

    The Blue Lake of Mount Gambier

    Coorong National Park

    A must on your Adelaide to Melbourne road trip is the Coorong National Park, which you will already be in once you arrive at Lake Albert. Hire a Kayak early in the morning to take in the lagoons and their peaceful and impressive wildlife.

    The vibes are laid back, and the windy coastline is an excellent way to start the day exploring Salt Creek or Narrung.

    The Big Lobster

    If you have spent any time travelling around Australia or New Zealand, you will know they like big, weird things. The Adelaide to Melbourne trip is no different. The Big Lobster has officially become a tourist destination, and it even has a name, Larry the Lobster (creative, huh!).

    Swing by Kingston for a coffee stop and get a selfie with one of the oddest things you’ll likely ever post to Facebook.

    Beachport

    The Beachport Conservation Park is another example of just how much protected nature and wildlife the extended Adelaide to Melbourne drive has. Turn off from the coast towards Lake George, and you’ll find yourself a walking path suitable for a stroll to break up the drive.

    If you get the chance to learn about the Aboriginal culture in Australia, then you should take it, and this region has plenty of history.

    Back on the coast, you can take the seaside pathway towards the lighthouse, which offers a viewpoint towards Penguin Island. You’ll likely need binoculars and luck to see the small population of penguins here, but no fear; once you get to Melbourne, you can head to St Kilda Beach Breakwater and see them a little closer.

    The Mount Gambier Sinkhole

    Mount Gambier

    Mount Gambier was one of my favourite stops in South Australia and also one of the weirdest. Compared to most places you’ll visit on the Adelaide to Melbourne route, it’s quite a happening city with a lot of bars, restaurants and late-night gambling opportunities. That said, in January a popular tourist time of year it was also strangely deserted, it almost seemed like a city built and waiting for people to move in. I assume it has a lot of fly-in/out workers.

    Once you’ve checked out the Blue Lake (which is really one of the bluest things you will ever see), head to the city for some modern pub grub and a cheeky drink.

    Mount Gambier sinkhole (officially Umpherston Sinkhole) sits in the middle of the city and has been transformed into a well-kept garden space where you can walk down and relax in the gardens. Keep an eye out for Possums, which are adorable (not like the freaky-ass American ones), even though they are still considered a big pest here.

    At night, the sinkhole walls are lit up with a light and sound show, which tells the story of how the volcano created Mount Gambier, and it’s actually worth pulling up a chair for. All in all, Mount Gambier is pretty dope.

    To Camp: The Blue Lake holiday park is close to the lake, and it’s a good spot to park your wheels to rest for the night whilst being close enough to the (slightly odd) nightlife.

    Upgrade: If you want cheap and cheerful, the Red Carpet Motel, slightly out of town, does the job.

    The Grotto was one of my Favourites

    The 12 Apostles

    The star of the Great Ocean Road, I’d actually advise you to come ahead the night before for sunset and then again for sunrise. Seeing the different light break along these limestone stocks always provides a unique angle. Sunrise also seems less busy. If you feel like splurging, taking one of the short helicopter flights above isn’t a bad idea for yet another look at one of Australia’s most iconic attractions. Expect crowds.

    Great Otway NP

    A fair chunk of the Adelaide to Melbourne route is along the coast, but surprisingly, the GOR takes quite a dip inland. No complaints, though, because it is through the Great Otway National Park. The mountain ranges are home to some impressive waterfalls, such as Triplet Falls, and the various boardwalks offer some impressive walks through the park. If you take the main walk to the coast, you will get to the Twelve Apostles. The Cape Otway lighthouse, built in 1848, which is well and pretty historic in modern Australian history, is also viewable from here. Make sure you have one eye peeled for koalas, and if you don’t see them, then Kennett River is a must-stop to try again.

    Find your private beach on the coast

    Apollo Bay

    Honestly, the beach is nice, and the vibes are chilled, but I don’t see why this place gets so much attention. On my last trip, I just drove through. You have so many more places you can stop and enjoy on the Adelaide to Melbourne route with far fewer people. If you pass by and it’s not too busy, then absolutely, stop for a peek and some seafood (it’s a major claim to fame), but if it’s rammed and you just want some sand, perhaps continue.

    Lorne

    This place has got pretty hip these days. Fancy burger joints, trendy bars and a struggle to find a parking space even on a not-so-sunny day. If you are feeling hungry, want a beach day with facilities or just want to check into an upmarket joint and bake in the sun (SPF40 on, please; this sun is a killer), then Lorne is a popular place for that very reason.

    To Camp: Although I didn’t pitch up, I’ve had friends who have camped at the Torquay campgrounds and headed slightly further along from Lorne and said they got a good deal. Free camping is very limited and, for the most part, illegal along most of the surf coast.

    Upgrade: If you can get the Mantra on a deal (which I swear this chain always has a deal), then go for it. Super close to the beach, and you get a bit of luxury for a few nights.

    Torquay

    The seaside town of Torquay is known not only for its excellent surf but also for its big wave events and competitions. If you want to catch some waves while road-tripping from Adelaide to Melbourne, then spend time here. You can even head along the Surf Coast walk, which will take you to some of the best spots in town.

    It even has a national surf museum if you really want to be all about the breaks.

    Bellarine & Geelong

    People usually skip Geelong and the Bellarine Peninsula as they head up the highway back to the city on their Adelaide to Melbourne road trip. Don’t do that and miss out on this chilled-out region. Head to Point Lonsdale to walk its blissful beach and go rock pooling under the rickety pier.

    Take the Bellarine Taste Trail, a map of around fifty places to eat, drink and be merry. With craft beer houses, wineries, and so much fresh local produce, it’s the ultimate foodie getaway in Victoria.

    Geelong serves up some cool bars and is undergoing vast regeneration, while heading to Queenscliffe is a bit like stepping back in time. I’ve got a whole other guide on a weekend in the Bellarine Peninsula, so check it out for more inspiration.

    To Camp: The Big4 Bellarine campsite is conveniently located in the middle of the region, making it an ideal base to call home with the camper.

    Upgrade: I was living the Van Life in the Bellarine, so I can’t offer up any go-to suggestions of where to stay, but find someone on the beach, and as always, you’ll be winning!

    The beaches that await on a Bellarine road trip

    Melbourne

    And that’s a wrap. Drop off your Britz campervan on the outskirts of the north of the city, hop on a train, and you are ready to check out the craft beer, take in the buzz and hell, and join a Neighbours set tour if your mum drags you along on one… Melbs is an awesome city, and I think it deserves its own post!

    Have an awesome road trip along the great, great ocean road!

    Need to know:

    Adelaide to Melbourne by Bus: To see all the attractions on the route, it is likely best to take a tour. That said, V-Line offers some bus services throughout the area, which you can find on the map link.

    Adelaide to Melbourne Trains: Although this is possible at a stressful ten-hour journey, it takes the inland route, which means skipping all the coastal goodness. Unless you have no other option, I can see no reason you would make this trip by train. There are some trains which connect with buses to do this – see the VLine link above.

    The one-way fees can sometimes cause quite an increase in price, but luckily, Britz (and most others) will often waive these or have a sale on to skip them as it’s such a popular route to do in both directions.

  • Stopover in Singapore: How To Spend One to Five Days

    Stopover in Singapore: How To Spend One to Five Days

    Singapore. For five days. Is that maybe too long? That was precisely what I was pondering the first time I visited The Lion City, and having now been back a handful of times since, I can confidently say that, no, it’s not too long. Singapore is one of my favourite cities in Asia and the world.

    But somehow, Singapore has developed a (well-deserved) reputation as a stopover destination. With Changi, the best airport in the world, and Singapore Airlines, my favourite to fly, it’s not hard to guess why. How many other airports in the world can you catch a free movie, enjoy a butterfly or sunflower garden, relax by a waterfall, shop till you drop, or even check in to an airport rooftop pool?

    Then, of course, if you have scheduled your flights to have a layover of more than a few hours, the excellent public transport or extensive line of taxis make it super easy to nip into the city. Soak up the famous sights like the Marina and Gardens by the Bay before enjoying a Singapore Sling and some Chilli Crab at the airport before your onward journey.

    However, if that is the only time you are earmarking for Singapore, then you’re going to be missing out. There are so many sides to this city that a Singapore stopover simply isn’t enough. You need to be dedicating at least a few days to this city.

    Four reasons Singapore is more than a stopover

    It’s the perfect introduction to South and East Asia for the more wary traveller, with cuisine and cultures from across the continent.

    It’s safe and clean for those who might have travel worries, especially ideal for trying all the Hawker Markets (Singapore’s take on street food) and sampling lots of different dishes in hygienic settings.

    It’s fantastic for all ages and types of trips. I’ve visited solo, with friends, with my parents when I took them to Indonesia (they loved it), and have had romantic trips here that ended with the L-word being muttered. Fancy restaurants, great bars, tranquil parks, nature islands, high-tech shows, shopping sprees, cultural experiences – it really has it all.

    And lastly, before anyone cries about the cost, it can work for all budgets and even backpackers. Sure, there are crazy expensive hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants. But there are also boutique hostels with fair prices, excellent Hawker Markets, and plenty of Singapore’s best attractions that are free. Plus, you are a bus ride away from Malaysia, a boat ride from Indonesia, or the world’s best airport away from another destination. What I would advise, though, is to save up your dollars for Singapore so you can enjoy the best the city has to offer without worry.

    Sold on Singapore? Awesome! Here are some ideas of how to spend your time here, depending on how many days you stick around for your Singapore stopover. I think you’re going to be surprised by just how much this city has to offer.

    The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple in Chinatown

    One day in Singapore (day one)

    In 1967, the Prime Minister set out his plan and vision for the ‘Garden City’ that we now know as modern-day Singapore, and it’s truly a city reborn.

    With 55 years of independence under their belt from the British (and a brief stint of being part of Malaysia), Singapore has managed to become one of the most important financial districts in Asia and globally while keeping true to that vision of a green city. For first-time visitors to Asia, it’s a great city to ease you in, with cuisine from across the continent, English as a first language, and a high quality of transport and health and safety.

    While some visitors to Singapore might opt to take a hop on hop off bus tour, I’d highly recommend exploring mainly by foot and sometimes making use of the excellent metro system. For your first day in the city, focus on the Gardens and Marina, perhaps the most famous area in Singapore for tourists.

    Gardens by the Bay

    Where better to start off exploring the Garden City than the mighty impressive Gardens by the Bay? These certainly aren’t your average city gardens, though, and you should plan to spend at least a couple of hours exploring all they have to offer.

    Sitting just beyond the high-rises of the city and alongside the water surrounding the peninsula, Gardens by the Bay include the Botanical Gardens, which are most famous for the futuristic, colour-changing trees, the covered Cloud Forest and Flower Dome with their mix of bright colours and cooling water features.

    I would recommend going inside the covered gardens and up onto the futuristic Supertree top walk (tickets can be purchased online in advance), but if you don’t have the time or want to avoice the entrance fees, walking around the gardens is entirely free. There’s also a quite cute little bar up the top of one of the artificial trees, ideal for a quick drink.

    Marina Bay and Marina Bay Sands

    The Marina Bay area of Singapore is perhaps its most famous. On the other side of the imposing Marina Bay Sands hotel from the gardens, you’ll find a plethora of attractions, high-rises, bustling restaurants and iconic sights to enjoy.

    Marina Bay Sands, the boat-like hotel, which dominates the show here, provides some of the most incredible views of the city from its rooftop, while the Marina Bay Shoppes underneath offer countless ways to splurge your money.

    The rooftop is fantastic. However, that famous pool is reserved for guests staying at the hotel, so if you want to take a dip in one of the most iconic pools I’ve ever swum in, you’ll have to book to stay the night.

    Singapore Skyline along the Marina

    Alternatively, buy a ticket at the door or in advance to guarantee entrance to the rooftop viewing platform. If you time this up to go to the bar rather than just the viewing platform, you can just pay for a drink rather than your rooftop pass.

    By night, the whole complex comes alive, and the Marina Bay Sands projects an impressive light and music show; however, if you want to watch this, you’ll want to be on the other side of the Bay.

    Marina Bay – Art Science Museum

    If you make time for one museum while in Singapore, I’d highly recommend the Art Science Museum which is located in the Marina, this high-tech spot is rather popular with Instagrammers and photographers, as the interactive and colourful displays inside will entertain the little kids, as well as us big kids with cameras! You can buy tickets in advance through GetYourGuide or on arrival.

    Marina Bay – Other Attractions

    Strolling around the Marina is the perfect way to enjoy the city on your first day and take in some great views. The Singapore Flyer, the giant wheel alongside the marina, is another option to get high up, while the aforementioned Light Show rounds the day perfectly.

    You’ll also find the Merlion statue, with its waterfall feature alongside the Marina. This is the national symbol of Singapore, and while it might look like a lion at first glance, take another look, and you’ll realise the lion’s head is attached to the body of a fish!

    Marina Bay – Dining

    To round off the day, of course, you’ll want to sample some of Singapore’s famous cuisine, with the Chili Crab and Hainanese Rice being two staples of the city. Enjoy one for lunch and the other for dinner.

    The lower level of the Marina Bay Sands Shoppes has a surprisingly great Hawker Market, with high hygiene standards and reasonable value prices, so this would be an excellent spot for some lunchtime Hainanese Rice, a chicken rice dish, without having to detour too far.

    For dinner, the Singapore Chili Crab is a sure-fire bet, and while this is one of the most pricy meals I’ve ever had, at Palm Beach Seafood Restaurant, you can enjoy this with a fantastic view, looking back across the Bay to watch the light show with your dinner.

    It wasn’t the best Chili Crab I’ve had in the city, that was in a place in Clarke Quay, but for the view and experience of the free light show, it might be a table reservation you want to make in advance.

    Two days in Singapore (day two)

    Cultures come together in Singapore and can be seen as easily here as walking from one street to the next.

    With a mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian influences, as well as colonial and local history, this small country will make you feel you are seeing much more of the continent in just a short walk. For day two in Singapore, that’s what we are going to focus on.

    Little India

    Start your day in Little India, vibrant, colourful and with flavours dancing across your nostrils; you’ll be swept away with signs of architecture that make for perfect photos.

    Visit the Hindu Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, one of the oldest in the city, or hit up the legendary food hall here which boasts some seriously good eats at fantastic places, this myth that Singapore will blow your budget is certainly not true!

    There are some little art galleries, boutique stores, and markets here, ideal for any souvenirs, gifts or traditional artwork to take home, and it’s a charming part of Singapore to soak up.

    Little India in Singapore

    Kampong Gelam

    Next up, take a stroll to Kampong Gelam, which you might see the name as Glam, however, Gelam is the correct spelling as it’s the name of the tree that can be found in Singapore and this neighbourhood.

    A short walk from Little India will bring you here, and on the way, you’ll pass the Our Lady of Lourdes Church and the Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple, again highlighting the mix of culture and heritage in a small space.

    Kampong Gelam is the Muslim Quarter, with the Sultan Mosque, with a bright gold dome, being one of the main landmarks and attractions leading off Arab Street.

    The colourful shops with attractive facades now dish out Malay food, boutique fashions and souvenir gifts, while the well-photographed Haji Lane gets ever more trendy each time I visit the city.

    Dip into the Malay Heritage Centre to learn more about the local history of the quarter and the brief years Singapore was part of Malaysia.

    China town and Keong Saik Road

    Next up, skip across to perhaps my favourite part of Singapore, Chinatown. If this is your last day in Singapore, I’d suggest walking here on foot in around an hour so that you can see the National Library and Fort Canning Park on the way, alternatively you can hop on the Metro, especially if the mid-day heat is getting too much for you!

    Chinatown is a fantastic part of the city, especially so for food! There are plenty of options to dine here. The Maxwell Food Centre offers extensive options at great prices in a no-fuss setting.

    Colourful temple interiors in Singapore

    Wander around the streets, admire the architecture and colour, and be sure to visit the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, which looks spectacular both day and night. If you’re lucky, you’ll witness Monks practising their chats inside as my parents did.

    Designed in the bright red style of the Dang Dynasty, you could well mistake its age; in fact, it is relatively modern. Inside is home to the sacred Buddha tooth, hence the name, and although it’s intricate and the museum factual, unless you are a Monk, you won’t be entering the relic room yourself.

    Here you’ll also find some of the more affordable accommodation in the city and a range of Hostels. I always recommend the Adler Hostel as a good value bet in the city, where the pod rooms were super comfortable. I had a good night’s sleep, and the boutique hostel vibe, with free coffee and comfy common areas, still feels upscale.

    By night, either eat at the hugely popular and busy covered markets or head slightly further to Keong Saik Road, one of the hippest corners of Singapore. You’ll find fantastic rooftop bars like Potato Head here, busy eel restaurants, and quirk cocktail bars serving up fusion tapas. You can read more on my guide to Chinatown and Keong Saik Road.

    Hawker Markets in Singapore

    Three days in Singapore (day three)

    For our third day in Singapore, we are going to explore the colonial side of the city, with the architecture and attractions from the British invasion and occupation.

    For sure, though, we’ll also find some time to relax in nature, enjoy fancy cocktails and cuisine, and may even get some shopping in – wear comfy shoes today, as this full loop is around 8km in the sun if you do it all by foot.

    UNESCO Botanical Gardens

    Start the day in the beautiful, tranquil and well-cared-for Botanical Gardens. Slightly away from the downtown area, these gardens are so special that they are one of just a few listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Orchard Road

    After a peaceful start to the day, it’s time for a little shopping and buzz on Orchard Road, the main retail street of the city. You’ll find all kinds of stores here, from the expensive and exclusive to more relaxed food offerings.

    If you are after the quaint, terraced houses that are postcard-perfect and so different from the rest of the city head to Emerald Hill Road for tree-lined, intricate shuttered residences and small bars, you’ll find this just to the left about halfway down Orchard Road.

    Wander along the street in the direction of the Marina, ready to start sightseeing again, and grab lunch on the way down the road.

    National Museum of Singapore

    Beyond the end of Orchard Road, you’ll find the oldest museum in the city, The National Museum of Singapore. Dating back to 1849, this museum now tells the story of the city, sharing insight and history to the heritage of Singapore in a grand colonial-style building.

    Raffles Hotel for a Singapore Sling

    In 1819, Sir Raffles arrived and took Singapore, converting it into a British Sea Port. It grew in size and importance as an international trade route until the Second World War when the Japanese captured it. It then became part of Malaysia before becoming a country in its own right.

    The Raffles Hotel has, therefore, become quite iconic in the city and is a popular place to sample the signature Singapore Sling cocktail, so loved, I was amazed to find they even serve it in economy class when I flew with Singapore Airlines.

    Not far from Raffles is The Fullerton Hotel, where on Sunday they do a reasonably fair-priced (for Singapore) champagne Brunch – which made a for a great part of my birthday celebration trip.

    Hotel Fort Canning in Singapore

    National Gallery of Singapore

    Take a stroll past the St Andrews Church, and shortly after, you’ll arrive at the National Gallery of Singapore.

    Another grand building, this time housing the world’s largest collection of Southeast Asian Art, and of course, that of Singapore. It’s a fascinating collection and a beautiful place to spend some time, so if you can only handle one gallery or museum a day, I’d suggest stopping by here over the National Museum.

    Fort Canning

    Nearby is Fort Canning Park, which sits atop a hill and was an important viewpoint for the country in its trading port days, as well as witnessing some of the historical events in the country’s past. Now you can explore the park, where shade can be found and is much appreciated on a warm afternoon.

    On my first visit to Singapore, I stayed here in the old British War command building, which is now Hotel Fort Canning. It’s been converted into a very stylish hotel, with open plan glass rooms and bathrooms, a lovely pool in the greenery, and offers a happy hour with free drinks and snacks to its guests in the early evening.

    Clark Quay

    End your day in Clark Quay, a brightly lit and busy entertainment hub. Here, you’ll find countless bars and restaurants to cater to all tastes, and you can easily party into the early hours after dining on some more amazing local dishes.

    Four days in Singapore (day four)

    With much of the colonial history, green spaces, high-tech futuristic and heritage side of Singapore under our belts, now it’s time for some relaxing and fun!

    There are many islands off Singapore, ranging from those taken over by nature to the more popular and vastly developed like Sentosa, where we will spend our day.

    Cable car

    The best way to get to Sentosa for me is the Cable Car, as you’ll get some fantastic views on the way there. These can be purchased at the station or booked in advance.

    Beaches
    The beaches around Sentosa are well kept and relaxed, with plenty of opportunities to get drinks, snacks and ice-creams while you relax.

    You’ll also likely meet some of the local resident peacocks, who strut around the beaches and pavements and add a splash of colour to your day in the sand. The waters are calm and mainly inlets, so it’s a chilled-out place to relax.

    My favourite beach spot is at Palawan Beach, where a wooden suspension bridge leads to a tiny outer island, home to a viewing platform which is labelled as the most Southern point of continental Asia – though that seems to cause quite a debate!

    Universal Studios

    For those who want to lap up all the fun and games that Sentosa has on offer, though, you might prefer to spend the full day at Universal Studios Sentosa, a vast theme park with plenty of rides, shows and attractions to enjoy.

    If you decide to stay the night, I can highly recommend the Sofitel in Sentosa, which, on a previous visit, had only just re-opened under the new branding. It’s a beautiful resort, although expect some Peacocks to be wandering around, as one decided to tap on my window every morning! It has beautiful architecture, spacious rooms, and a delightful pool area.

    Five days in Singapore (day five)

    For me, five days in Singapore will allow you to really see all sides of the city. Of course, I’ve been back four times since and happily spent days just walking around, eating great food, and discovering even more places.

    For your last day, however, I’d suggest heading back towards the airport, to the other side of Changi, to see the more rugged and remote side of Singapore.

    Palau Ubin Islands

    While there are actually quite a few islands off Singapore to explore, one of my favourites is Palau Ubin, so I’d suggest spending the day out there exploring nature.

    It is just a short ‘Bumboat’ (yep, you read that right) away from Changi Jetty, which is near the airport.

    These unique islands offer a wildlife haven within this country and is home to huge lizards, wild boar, otters and monkeys.

    Grab a bike for a few dollars and spend a couple of hours taking in the untouched greenery and the boardwalk over the ocean and exploring the small village known as Kampung to get a feel of what Singapore would have been like 60 years ago. The best bit? Island admission is free, and those Bumboats cost just a few dollars. You can even camp here overnight if you wish, although keep an eye out for the Giant Lizards!

    Once back in Changi you realise there is more than just the airport there, it’s a quiet, tree-filled area which again makes you think what Singapore could have been like before the tower blocks. Changi village has some quaint places to eat as well as coastal beach walks.

    Cute colourful buildings in Singapore

    Shopping and Souvenirs and Singapore Airport

    If you are departing later that evening, be sure to leave enough time to enjoy all the airport has to offer. There is a reason it constantly wins the best airport in the world. Check out the waterfalls in the new Jewel terminal, admire the sunflowers of butterflies in the rooftop gardens, kick back and relax watching a film, or if you have plenty of time to kill, check into the airport hotel with a rooftop pool.

    If you want somewhere nearby to stay the night, then the Changi Cove Hotel does the job, and I’ve stayed here before when I had an early flight, hopping in a taxi to the airport the following morning. The design, like hotel rooms, has interesting features, like high-end coffee machines in the rooms and hanging basket chairs, while a pool will help you cool off in the simple outside area.

  • Sado Island: A two-day Tokyo escape of Taiko drums, tub boats and temples

    Sado Island: A two-day Tokyo escape of Taiko drums, tub boats and temples

    Red numbers flickered in the high 200’s, as the Shinkansen bolted across the countryside, leaving the beautiful crazy of the capital behind. The scenery changed from industrialised towns to mountains of snow quickly, and I was excited for my two-day trip from Tokyo. Sado Island had been described to me in several ways, from Japan’s mini Hawaii to the Island of Gold where few remain. December wasn’t high-season to explore this slightly off-the-beaten-path Japan destination, and by the time we pulled into Niigata Station, the train was sparse of people.

    The fewer people, the better, I pondered, having just spent a night in Tokyo and been reminded of just how big the cities of Japan were – a far cry from the relaxing world of Kochi where I had been the week before. The main draw to Sado Island for me was the chance to witness traditions, such as Taiko drumming lessons and tub boats, but also to embrace the considerate culture of Japan, on a smaller scale.

    Nicknamed the butterfly island, due to its shape, Sado sit’s off the west coast of Japan, and following the train and quick bus ride, a jetfoil will shoot you across the water in under an hour. Coming closer to the Island, dramatic rocky mountains with snowcapped peaks greet you, while little human activity is immediately apparent. At its peak, Sado was a vast gold mine and an essential part of the nation’s economy. Nowadays, like much of Japan, the population is ageing and dwindling, and a slower way of life can be expected.

    Sliding into Ryotsu Port, one of two on the Island, I didn’t expect a hub of activity. In the main tourist season there are plenty of guided tours and more bus options, but being December, I was more limited. I’d opted to stay on the far-southern point of the Island, as many places of interest are in that location, though nothing is every too-far away on Sado Island. With the full-day ahead of me, I’d arranged a driver to meet me here, and en-route to my Ryokan we would visit a few places.

    Moments from Ryotsu is Toki Forest Park, a conservation and breeding area for the Toko Bird, a graceful Ibis with a slightly pink colour to it. These iconic beauties can sometimes be spotted in the wild around the Island, and whenever one appeared, even if hundreds of meters away, Nagata, my driver, apparently with the eyes of a hawk, would excitedly point out its presence. At the Toki Forest Park, you are more guaranteed to see these elegant feathered creatures. The small area holds a museum, which details the breeding programme, and a large enclosure where Ibis are awaiting their return to the wild – sadly, it was closed for renovation work, so we quickly moved on to the heart of the islands history: gold.

    Inside the old Sado Gold Mines, complete with robots

    For many years, Sado Island was a wealthy contributor to the nation. The hills are literally packed with gold, and around a thousand people were sent here to work in the mines, strenuous work and hard labour with less than modern practices, although overtime conditions did improve slightly.

    Although I wanted to head straight into the old-mines, now set up for visitors, Nagata proudly wanted to show me the nearby Gold Museum, which had just recently opened its doors. Amongst the older wooden buildings, this new glass structure looked somewhat out of place. Still, it provides an excellent overview of the history of the Island, especially about the gold industry and important trading routes, of which Sado was a vital spot.

    Buying my nominally cheap entrance ticket from a machine (it is still Japan, after all), I was impressed at the high-tech quality of the museum, and the fact all the videos were in English and Subtitled. Through a handful of different rooms, you are taken on a tour of the history, and animations are projected on 3D tables and walls, depicting water floods, gold flying, and mountains terrain. I was very impressed with the design of the museum, even more so as there wasn’t another soul there.

    A short drive from the museum are the mines themselves, the exterior stations now looking like some kind of Aztec Ruins, coated in green moss, fading back into the surrounding nature, but on closer inspection, concrete pillars and floors that had been abandoned, and exposed to the elements.

    The remains of the gold mines on Sado Island

    These mines are likely the contributors to most of Tokugawa shogunate’s fortune, a dynasty clan from the Edo Period of Japan, but now are fully closed, not because the gold run out, but to protect the environment, especially the Ibis birds.

    The two main mining tunnels are however much better preserved, and an audio-guide tour will take you through these and around the back, where little trains and mountain views are shared with tool museums. The Sado Kinzan tunnels themselves show the conditions, traditions and reality of the mines, and being Japan, robots played the parter of the miners to depict that in further detail. There was something quite eerie about being way underground, and the occasional robotic arm or face moving towards you.

    Back in the warmth of the winter sun, we rounded off our gold-history lesson with a spot of panning. While explosives would have rushed the gold from the mountains into the waters, for tourists, a ready-made experience of inside sandy beds await. Here, you’ll be shown how to pan and have a window to bag yourself a few flakes to take home. Apparently, I have a natural talent, as my 18-pieces of tiny sliver seemed to set a new record, and I walked off into the sunset a few dollars richer.

    Speaking of sunsets, I’d been told that Sado Island has some of the best in the world, and tonight, the only night of my trip without cloud cover, that was very much true.

    Stopping off at Senkakuwan Bay, on the suggestion of Nagata, I purchased a ticket to the viewing platform here, where a little white bridge carries you across to a rocky outpost. At first glance, I had assumed it was a small temple, but getting closer, I realised it was a bar area, likely famous for sunset Sake in the summer months. The views around this part of the coast were spectacular, and the dramatic rock formations made me realise the comparison to Hawaii.

    From a photography point of view, the vistas looking back out on the viewing platform actually trumped standing upon it, and in-season small boats depart from here for tours. A quite sad aquarium with equally sad-looking fish can also be found here, the only place on Sado Island I didn’t enjoy.

    Driving the coastal road to the far southern-point of Sado, the sky danced from oranges and yellows to purples and reds, and by the time we arrived at Hananoki Inn, my 150-year old Ryokan and home on the Island, the sky was starting to twinkle with stars.

    A small family affair, Hananoki Inn is the second of the family-run accommodation on this side of the Island, and they happily gave me a life to their other hotel to enjoy the onsen. By now, I was getting quite familiar with these naked hot spring baths, and the large glass windows looked out on the bay, a beautiful view I imagine during daylight.

    On return to the Ryokan, which is a traditional Japanese accommodation type, where wooden rooms have incredible comfortable futon beds laid out on the floor, a spread of treats awaited me.

    Famed for its seafood, and especially Crab, my first meal on Sado Island consisted of countless courses, all served with a smile and laughter, and plenty of local beer. With just a handful of rooms or rather wooden cabins, there were only a few guests in the dining room. We all talked, and a local fashion designer and artist, whose work has been exhibited across the world, struck my interest. The arts are everywhere in Japan, but they also seem to thrive in these small rural pockets known for their creative energy.

    The grey light of a cloudy sky woke me from my slumber, as the full-length windows framed the rice terraces outside my cabin and the sea beyond that. Breakfast was a whole other affair, of eggs, salmon, noodles, soup and many more little dishes I couldn’t name or even describe.

    Pulling up last night, the huge Budha statue looming behind the Ryokan had caught my eye, so I set out on a walk to explore the immediate area. Curving around from the huge figure was a path leading into some dense bamboo, intrigued, I followed it.

    When researching where to visit in Sado Island, I found the usual top things to do in Sado lists, but they all seemed relatively incomplete. That morning I realised why beyond the towering Buddha and peaceful Bamboo walk, I passed little temples, and climbing some stairs, a cave packed with hundreds of Budha statues of all sizes, both lining the inside of the temple, but also leading up to it, each well ‘dressed’ and starting to catch a mossy green glow.

    The cave temples went by the name 岩屋山石窟, and therein lay the reason as a tourist you really have to do your own exploring here, and in many parts of Japan. Much of the information hasn’t been translated, so discoveries of your own, or asking locals, is the way to go.

    From Hananoki you are well placed to explore many of the Island’s attractions, of which are large amount seemed to be concentrated in the south, perhaps given the flatter terrain than the north.

    By now, the sun had pierced through the clouds, and the ocean was illuminated in surprisingly bright shades of blue. Little villages of wooden houses and colourful blue boats broke through the small clearing of trees, and a unique type of lava-rock formation, which came up from the sea as it wasn’t a volcanic island defined the rugged rocks where the water met with the land.

    Little caves and shuttered-for-winter scuba schools could be found in the central coastal villages, but my mind was focused on finding the traditional tub boats of Sado, the Hangiri Tarai.

    Yajima Island had looked one of the most scenic spots on the Island during my research, and it was only a short stroll from my temporary home. A little bay of still water looked out onto the rocky and greenery covered Island, accessible by a bright red bridge getting slightly sprayed by waves. Crossing the bridge to the Island, a warning sign advised me to, or instead blocked me, from going any further.

    Bees, a worker seemingly there on bee duty told me, pointing towards a huge nest that was blocking the way, and making a signal that looked like I would immediately face death by a million stings if I ventured any further. I didn’t have much luck with the tub boats either here, being off-season, although I imagine it would be a picturesque place to enjoy these round traditional almost bathtub like vessels.

    Later in the day, and further along the coast, in the not so scenic Ogi Port, I’d get the experience of not just riding in one, but having a go at the wheel, or rather a single oar, which you swirl in a circular motion to move. I can’t say the port building or grey skies made for the most beautiful moment of the trip, but the colourful traditional costume and continual laughter of my driver, seemingly finding it hilarious that I made us just go around in a circle than any given direction, put a smile on my face.

    Next up, it was time for the part of my Sado Island visit I was most excited for, turning my hand to Taiko Drumming. The Taiko Experience Exchange Center usually closes in the winter months, but luckily as it was their last days of packing everything away, they had agreed to squeeze me in for a little lesson.

    Taiko itself just means a percussion instrument, but Sado Island is famed for its players, the Kodo Group, who tour the world showing off their skills and I was lucky to have one of these stars teaching me the ropes during a one-hour lesson. The huge wooden hall had drums of all size in them, including two giant ones that my instructor had helped hand carve from a single hollowed-out tree herself.

    Patiently, I learnt how to play three different types of drum, and the session ended in a full-on jam as we battled it out together, seeing who would fail at ‘follow the leader’ first. If there is one memory I’ll cherish from Sado the most, it was that hour, the patience and talent of my instructor, and the incredible friendliness of everyone at the centre.

    For the final slice of Sado Island history that day, I ventured to two of the most iconic places on the Island: Shukunegi Village and the Ogi Folk Museum.

    An abandoned school and temple building, the Ogi Folk Museum is packed to the rafters with pieces of the Island’s history. From fishing to school desks, lamps to religious objects, the many rooms hold a whole treasure trove of goodies – many of which were alien to me. Most of the information is not in English, but a short video about the towering ship in the museum gave some insight. You can also walk onto the replica boat, a copy of what would have taken gold off the Island. Each year for a special festival it is wheeled outside and the mast raised.

    Apparently, in recent years though there has not been enough people to shift this beast outside, another reminder of the changes and challenges of Japan’s rural populations.

    The old folklore museum has a haunting feeling

    For a more hands-on slice of Sado Island history though, Shukunegi Village, which you’d be forgiven for thinking is part of the museum, obliges. The tiny narrow streets of this community are framed by wooden buildings, dating back hundreds of years. Although peaceful and quiet, families do still live here, and many of the homes are occupied.

    The village is a fascinating insight into how life was, and to an extent, still is on Sado, with colourful buildings of all shapes, and museums and rooms you can venture into and soak up the atmosphere of tradition. Little temples, springs, and the obligatory coffee vending machine remind you it’s very much still home to those that live here.

    With a drizzle of rain arriving, I returned to my warm futon and ate a ready meal from Ogi supermarket, the last light of the day fading into the ocean. Sado Island isn’t somewhere you come for the nightlife, well, in December at least.

    Reunited with Nagata at the helm of the wheel, today’s plan was temple hopping, and with lots across the Island, you are spoilt for choice. I picked out five or six I wanted to visit, and accepting the mission; we sped off for a whirlwind tour of Shinto Shrines, Temples, and the islands only pagoda.

    Our first stop was Chokokuji Temple, also known as the Rabbit Temple. I knew there was a large white rabbit statue on the outside, where surely a Buddha should have been, but when I slid open the car door, the name made far more season.

    All around me Rabbits jumped about, lazed in the sun, or lapped up water from bowls. The owner had apparently taken in these rabbits, and given them a home fit for a god amongst the different rooms of the temple. While I’m often sceptical of animals being mixed with places tourists visit, from what I could see, they were all healthy, free, and living their best lives.

    While the grand temple hall isn’t too exciting, the stairs around the back, slowly crumbling away, led upwards to a couple of smaller temples, slowly being reclaimed by nature. A magnificent red paint illuminated one of those, and the trees encompassing it made for a postcard-perfect picture.

    Second on my list was Seisuiji Temple, where the tall trees framing the moss-covered stairs had enticed me. Once we had climbed the deep stairs, ornate wooden carvings on the entrance frame greeted me, and to the left were the temple buildings which were still in use, but straight ahead something far more interesting.

    The remains of a theatre fading into nature

    The trees had started to envelop the wooden deck and platform, and Nagata told me about this theatre stage, where performances would have taken place above the viewers below. Now, abandoned, the interior is still striking, with etchings and paintings. The magic of the setting wasn’t wasted on me, and perhaps, one day, it can be restored to its former glory.

    Outside theatres are part of the Sado Island life, and it’s on these stages that Noh, a traditional performance type is played out across the warmer months. At Shiizaki Suwa Shrine, another stop, where Shinto gates and nature collide, a small stage area, with painted backdrops, and back-stage passages visible to the world, is a popular place to witness these performances.

    After a hefty plate of Tempura in a back-street recommendation from Mr Driver, I suggested a break from religion, to sample some Sado Island Sake. I’d been royally spoilt with Sake samplings in Kochi, but I’d heard of the Obata Brewery on the Island, which was headed up by a female Sake producer, once a rarity in Japan, but now becoming more common. Set in an old school, and continuing the recycling of buildings no longer needed due to population decreases, I sipped on a few of the award-winning Sakes, sadly unable to meet the master herself, as she was away on business.

    There is only one Pagoda on Sado I believe, Nichirenshumyosen Temple, very much still in use and perhaps in the most pristine setting off all those we visited. Set amongst manicured gardens, with little ponds and multiple buildings for prayers, the wooden pagoda might not be as photogenic as the dark red ones throughout the country. Still, it was the perfect final stop on my tour of Sado Island.

    As we drove back south, Nagata asked me if I’d like to see one more temple, and I happily agreed. Pulling into the Hamochiiioka village, and parking in front of a huge red gate, he smiled and shared that this was his temple, his hometown, and where he had been married. The pride radiated from his beaming grin.

    The splendid Watatsu Shrine was clearly loved, as it was in pristine condition. Sharing how to clap, enter, pray and donate, Nagata kindly walked me through the experience of his special place, and it meant the world to me. To the side of the temple, encased in a glass box was the costume of a dragon, part of a popular festival on the Island. I couldn’t fully grasp why it occurred, but it sounded like a dramatic event, ending in a celebration of friendship, and from what I gathered, obligatory Sake!

    With storms rolling in the next morning, I received news of the jetfoils cancellation. On the rough seas, these can’t sail. However, the ferry boats continue. Arriving at the port later than planned, the cashier dutifully exchanged my ticket to the ferry, refunded the difference without quibble, and I boarded bound for the hoards of people at Tokyo Haneda Airport.

    On my previous trip to Japan I’d spent ten-days exploring Tokyo, nearby Yokohama and venturing to the splendour of Mt Fuji, but this time, from the clear rivers of Kochi, to the suspended in time Sado Island, I’d got an authentic flavour for Japan away from countless business people in suits, and hoards of tourists at the nations most famous sights.

    I’d hold of saying I loved Japan until I’d seen more of it, as I made this trip, but now I can say with certainty I really do. Japan isn’t just a country to visit; it’s a way of life and culture to soak up and embrace. From the calm and considerate to the quirky and confusing, it’s the best kind of culture shock I’ve ever received, and I hope if you are looking for a day trip from Tokyo, with at least one overnight stay, you get the chance to see this side of Japan, perhaps even more special than the skyline and robot-antics of the capital.

    Getting to Sado Island: Sado Island is easily reached, although you’ll need a bit of patience. No airport is required, as you can take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Niigata, the journey time is around 2.5 hours. From the station, a twenty-minute walk, or short bust journey, will take you to the ferry port where you have two options, with different prices, both run by Kisen. The jetfoil which takes around one hour, or the passenger and car ferry, which takes around three hours.

    I did the jetfoil over, however, due to bad weather on my return these were cancelled, and only the slower ferry was running – something to be aware of. Pricing is in different tiers on the ferry, depending on what class and lounge you want to sit in.

    Getting around Sado Island: For a small island, Sado is reasonably well equipped for tourism. Details on the various bus routes can be found here – though note they don’t offer that much flexibility, nor can take you to every place mentioned in this article. The hiring of a private driver for the day may be helpful to reach places that are further out from where you are staying, and not on the bus network. I used Okesa Taxi – and although the website is not in English, run it through Google Translate. My driver, Nagata, was super helpful and friendly and was very kind to offer to accompany me into certain attractions where he knew I would require translation help.

    Where to stay on Sado Island: I stayed at the Hana no Ki Rykonan, which although seems far away in the southern tip of the island, is actually well located for a lot of places you’ll want to visit, such as Shukunegi Village.

    A family-run Ryokan, in a beautiful home dating back some 150-years, they also own another hotel with onsen in the next village, and you can get a lift to use the facilities. While it was winter during my visit, the large room windows looking out over rice terraces and the ocean, coupled with the tranquil gardens and traditional wooden futon bedrooms made for a relaxing and peaceful place to stay.

  • A quick guide to Tokyo: must-visit neighbourhoods, attractions and easy day trips

    A quick guide to Tokyo: must-visit neighbourhoods, attractions and easy day trips

    When I first visited Tokyo, I had no idea where to start planning my trip. This sprawling mega-city seemed never-ending when I did my online research, and with the numbers thrown at you (from population to area covered), it can certainly seem overwhelming.

    For my second visit, however, I was more prepared and planned my time out based on the different neighbourhoods, also basing myself more centrally in Roppongi, which was a good move. While the transport network in Tokyo is very impressive, having a more structured approach to sightseeing is a must, especially if you want to fit everything in, and perhaps some day trips to the likes of Yokohama and Mount Fuji.

    On my first trip, I spent a week based in Tokyo, taking side trips, and on my second visit, I spent just a few days catching some highlights. Either way, here is a quick rundown of the main attractions and neighbourhoods in Tokyo and a few day-trip suggestions for your visit to the amazing capital of Japan! Also, don’t forget to download some of the best language learning apps before you head off!

    Asakusa (and Sensō-Ji)

    Asakusa is a fabulous area that retains much of its old charm. It is home to one of Tokyo’s most famous cultural attractions, Sensoji, a stunning Buddhist temple from the 7th century.

    Jump on a rickshaw or take your time and explore by foot; there’s plenty to see. Shoppers will love the shopping streets of Nakamise and Shin-Nakamise, the big malls of Tobu Asakusa Station and Matsuya, which cater to most tastes, and the more authentic, made in Japan-themed Marugoto Nippon.

    Sight-seeing can continue onto the water with a Sumida River Cruise, stretch your legs in the Sumida Park or visit and play some drums at the Taikokan (Drum Museum). Beer lovers can visit the Asahi Beer Tower or head to Rukku for rakugo theatres, pachinko parlours and cinemas.

    Akihabara (and its arcades)

    Electronics, anime and manga otaku (super fans) will love this district for its endless shops, arcades and cafes. Sega has four mega arcades in Akihabara varying from VR, crane games, video games, fighting to shooting, from action to sports.

    Maid and manga cafes are some of the quirky, interactive options where you can be served by a hostess dressed as a maid or anime character while enjoying your favourite beverage or flicking through comics. The popular idol group AKB48-inspired cafe serves food inspired by the group and has a theatre where the members perform for their fans, and Mobile Suit Gundam Cafe is decorated with art and themes from the series.

    Speciality stores selling retro video and card games along with figurines and collectables are dotted around between the vast stores.

    Roppongi (and its nightlife)

    The Roppongi district in Tokyo is a well-known area for nightlife, favoured by foreigners and having a significant ex-pat settlement.

    There are loads of clubs, bars, happy hours, and brightly lit neons flashing for your attention. The famous Jumanji 55 has its four-hour-long all-you-can-drink from 7-11 pm for 1000 yen, as do New Planet and Greenland.

    Chinese Cafe Eight is a rather intriguing eatery. It has “interesting” decor, excellent Peking Duck carved tableside, and great dumplings.

    Then, there’s the more classy Roppongi Hills with its stylish recreational facilities. Tourist attractions are plentiful here, with shops, restaurants, a movie theatre, the Mori Art Museum, and the Tokyo City View observation deck on the top floors of this towering building, one of the tallest in the city.

    I stayed in Roppongi on my most recent trip and found it a pretty handy base to explore from, certainly a much nicer neighbourhood than my previous visits. I checked into the Hotel & Residence Roppongi,which was a short walking distance from the hub of activity, but far enough away to avoid the nightlife when it was bedtime. On my first stay, I was in the standard rooms, which were nice enough, but when I returned to Tokyo before my return flight, they upgraded me to one of the traditional suite rooms.

    Blending modern facilities like hug tub baths, coffee machines, and 4 K TVs with the more traditional low-to-the-floor mattresses/futons and washing machine facilities, it was a great place to rest my head. The restaurant downstairs also served amazing set menus, including for vegetarians and vegans, which can be hard to find in Japan.

    Exploring the bright lights of Tokyo

    Sumida (and Tokyo Skytree)

    Sumida is the home of Ryogoku, Tokyo’s sumo district, the Tokyo Skytree, the Edo-Tokyo Museum, narrow streets and traditional bathhouses. Gardens and green riverbanks border both the Arakawa and Sumida rivers, making it a charming district with many traditional wooden houses. In stark contrast, the tallest building in Japan, The Tokyo Skytree towers above the shrines and tiny houses of days gone by. Fed by Tokyo’s thirst for technological leaders and lovers of soaring skyscrapers, this area is undergoing massive gentrification but still has enough beautiful Edo period touches to appease history buffs.

    Many independent art and design galleries, small cafes and shared spaces are cropping up, making it a hip area for creatives. There are malls, of course, but also charming shopping streets called shotengai that sell speciality foods like tofu, Japanese sweets and rice crackers.

    Shibuya & Shinjuku (Crossing, Meiji Jingu and Shinjuku Gyo-en)

    Shibuya crossing is the intersection by the Hachiko exit of Shibuya station. You’ll recognise it straight away as hundreds of selfie sticks are at the ready, waiting for the green light. Giant screens flashing adverts and music out over the crossing give it a charged atmosphere. Head up to the viewing platform in Shibuya Scramble Square to get a bird’ s-eye view or join one of the crazy Tokyo carting tours to enjoy the crossing without the hoards. Shopping, bars and restaurants are in abundance here.

    Meiji Shrine and the surrounding Yoyogi Park are in the largest forested area in Tokyo and offer a serene experience and is one of Japan’s most popular shrines. Many visitors take part in Shinto activities, making offerings or writing wishes on an ema.

    By the entrance, there’s a monument made from wine barrels – somewhat out of place, you may think, but then, reading the plaque, you’ll find that the Emperor loved wine. To this day, representatives from the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, a French historical organisation, visit the Meiji Shrine every year for the dedication ceremony.

    Shinjuku is as busy as you’ve heard, but oddly, it is straightforward to dial into the flow of more than 2 million daily passengers using this station. It is a massive, bustling entertainment, business, and shopping area unlike any other. It is home to some of the tallest buildings in Tokyo and the Metropolitan Government Office, where you can use the observation deck, free of charge, to take in the view.

    Kabukicho is where you’ll find the insane Robot Restaurant, the red-light district with Godzilla popping his head out of the Hotel Gracery, a vast number of arcades, restaurants, love hotels and everything you can imagine in between. A beautiful, large park called Shinjuku Gyoen is a great place to compose yourself after a sensorial overload.

    Exploring the parks in Shinjuku

    Minato (and Tokyo Tower)

    Minato represents the merger of old and new, offering cultural and historical insight into Tokyo. It is the natural home to many embassies and the headquarters of prominent domestic and international corporations.

    Shiny skyscrapers, wooden homes, bathhouses and retailers are surrounded by lush greenery, and then, almost out of nowhere, there’s the Tokyo Tower. Three hundred thirty-three meters of steel, towering above its neighbours and 13 metres taller than its inspiration, the Eiffel Tower. This was the tallest building in Japan until the Skytree took over in 2012. The main deck is 150 meters up and can be reached either by lift or via the 600 steps up. The floor windows and external aspects are both interesting and good photo opportunities.

    Ginza (and its expensive shopping and nightlife)

    Ginza is the upmarket shopping district of Tokyo, with boutiques, glamorous malls, fancy restaurants, galleries, cafes, and clubs, all packed into the most expensive real estate area in Japan.

    Top international fashion houses mixed with department stores and the newest range of Nissan cars or Sonys’ latest offerings in the Ginza Place showrooms.

    There’s also a twelve-storey Uniqlo store where fans will find the most diverse selection of the brand. Treat yourself to a Kabuki performance at the famous Kabukiza Theater. Diners can spoil themselves with the fantastic crab at Kitafuku Ginza or head to Yurakucho Gado-shita via the Ginza station for some of the more exciting foodie joints in the area, by the tracks. Yakitori, izakaya, French wine bars and beer joints are all perched happily together here.

    The Tokyo Tower

    Hibiya (and the Imperial Palace)

    Hibiya is not strictly a district, more of a colloquialism for Chiyoda ward. Some local names remain such as Hibiya Park and Hibiya Station from the early nineteen-hundreds.

    Tokyo Imperial Palace is a historically rich attraction in Chiyoda surrounded by pristinely landscaped gardens and parks. The grounds welcome visitors all year round. Although the original Edo Castle was sadly destroyed in the Second World War, great care has been taken to rebuild the palace in the same style as the 1888 version. This has been the residence of the Emperor of Japan and the Imperial family since then.
    Boasting a perfect hanami viewing spot, an ideal retreat to explore the parks and gardens free of charge.

    Ueno (and Ueno Park)

    In a city known for its super-fast pace, there are plenty of places to grab some air and take a break. Ueno Park is one such place. Formally, the park has been centre stage for many a battle until in 1873 it was officially transformed into a public park for the recreational purposes of the area. Reminders of the Parks once grand stature are evident with the Bentendo standing in the middle of Shinobazu pond on an island.

    Temples, museums and the Ueno Zoo are all located here too. Take some time to visit the Tokyo National Museum, National Museum for Western Art, Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum and the National Science Museum. With more than 1000 Cherry trees, it’s a hugely popular hanami.

    Ueno Park in autumn

    Odaiba (and the Statue of Liberty replica)

    Take a stroll across the pedestrian track on Rainbow Bridge, and you’ll find Odaiba. With a manmade 800 meter beach in the heart of Tokyo where many events take place. There’s a replica Statue of Liberty to commemorate France Year, standing at eleven meters, she’s a sight to behold.

    Borderless by teamLab is a top-rated attraction that showcases digital art. Take your time here, as there are lots of surprises. Book in advance, as it often sells out.

    The Tokyo Big Sight is located on the island and is a wild architectural feat. Huge events take place here like the International Anime Fair, Comiket and the Tokyo Motor Show. For shopping try, Decks Tokyo Beach Mall, which on top of the usual shops, has Joypolis, Legoland, Madame Tussauds, a trick art museum and many theme parks.

    Aquacity is packed with boutiques, stores, a large cinema complex, restaurants and cafes. DiverCity Tokyo Plaza is a large complex with a life-size Gundam at the forefront and has many anime attractions.

    How about a hot spring theme park? Oedo Onsen offers indoor and outdoor baths, massages, entertainment, dining, and overnight accommodation.

    The replica of the Statue of Liberty in Odaiba

    Tsukiji Fish Market (and all the food)

    The famous Tsukiji Inner Market closed in October 2018 and was replaced by the Toyosu Market on the island of Toyosu. Fear not though, this market was really more for professionals, and you can still visit the highly atmospheric Tsukiji outer market.

    A network of narrow streets packed with vendors selling Japanese delicacies and trinkets, you can quickly lose half a day here. Some of the stalls represent excellent value for central Tokyo with great Sushi breakfast options and excellent Kaisen Don. If you fancy splashing out, try a small wagyu skewer for around 9000yen for a tasty meat treat while soaking up the street life. Knife, tea, herb, fish and clothing vendors have their stock on display and prices are clearly marked to avoid confusion. It’s definitely worth a visit.

    Food is one of Tokyo’s greatest pleasures!

    Kabukicho (and ‘Piss Alley’)

    Kabukicho, officially the red light district, this is where you’ll find some of the crazy, “only in Tokyo” moments to bring home. Golden Gai is a collection of minibars, with most of them having space for no more than eight people.

    There are around 200 bars packed on top and beside one another over about four streets. Many of the bars charge an entrance fee and have a limited drinks selection, some only serving one thing. The atmosphere is fantastic, and you have no option but to get to know your fellow patrons and hosts. You’ll find some bathhouses dotted around as you head back to the main streets of Kabukicho, with lots of arcades and eateries.

    The skyline of Yokohama

    Day Trip: Yokohama

    Yokohama is a great day trip, being under an hour from Tokyo by train. A sprawling city itself, Yokohama isn’t a huge contrast to Tokyo, and given the sprawl of the urban area, they could almost blend into one.

    There’s a cool theme park in Yokohama, with plenty of attractions for the kids, but perhaps the best reason to visit is the Cup Noodle Museum, where you can learn the history of this famous potted dish, and also make your own one, lining up to pick the ingredients before it is air-sealed and then designing your own labels. It’s mainly for kids, sure, but I was not ashamed to sit there as a lonely solo traveller having my go!

    Yokohama is also home to the largest Chinatown in Japan, where there are bustling markets and lots of delicious Chinese dishes to sample.

    The Great Buddha of Kamakura

    Day Trip: Kamakura

    Kamakura is south of Tokyo, and it takes around an hour to reach. Once there, it’s relatively easy to explore by foot.

    Here, you’ll find beaches that, although aren’t the most picturesque in the country, are popular with surfers in the summer months.

    The main reason to visit Kamakura, however, is for the temples that litter the greenery here, including the most famous Great Buddha. It’s often called a mini-Kyoto, and there are some different walking trails between the temples, as well as a cute local train you can hop on from the main station to help you explore.

    Mount Fuji as viewed from the pagoda

    Day Trip: Mount Fuji

    Mount Fuji is an easy day-trip from Tokyo, you can take the Shinkansen in around 40 minutes, or the slower JR train in about 90 minutes to the Hakone region, where you’ll need to change to the slower local services. Alternatively, you could book a day-trip tour from Tokyo.

    Make the most of the day by heading out early. We left it a bit late for our trip, so we ended up only heading to the Chureito Pagoda for what are (mist-allowing) some of the best views of Mount Fuji. It was a lovely afternoon out.

    Over-night trip: Sado Island

    If you’re in Tokyo and looking for the opposite of the Japanese city experience, Sado Island will oblige. A Shinkansen train will deliver you to the port in just over two hours, and from here, a hydrofoil will whisk you to the off-coast island in under an hour. With an impressive history of gold mining, a fair chunk of Japan’s wealth originated from here. This certainly isn’t a day trip but an overnight visit, at least.

    Nowadays, the island, with its lush green forests, rugged rock formations, and crashing waves carved out over thousands of years, is sometimes compared to a Japanese Hawaii – and although not volcanic, evidence of sea lava from thousands of years ago can be spotted.

    From exploring remote abandoned temples reclaimed by nature to heading into long closed down gold mining pits, this is an island far removed from the modern images of Japanese megapolises. Visit historic wooden fishing villages, take a ride in a traditional tub boat, and be sure to visit the Taiko Centro, a beloved historical drumming practice that is world-acclaimed; you can even have a lesson with a master.

    Whether it is relaxing in an onsen, visiting a temple overtaken by bunny rabbits, or enjoying a pristine sunset from a bridge overhanging the weathered coastline, Sado Island is a lesser-explored jewel to escape the crowds of Japan’s most populated cities.

    Are you looking to explore even more further afield? Consider a visit to Kochi, to see nature, traditions and wellness experiences combine.

  • How To Spend a 12-Hour Stopover in Dubai Without Breaking the Bank

    How To Spend a 12-Hour Stopover in Dubai Without Breaking the Bank

    With only 12 hours in Dubai on my stopover, I wanted to cram as much into my layover as possible. Dubai had never been high on my list of places to visit, but as I was flying with Emirates and found myself in the city, I was keen to see as much as possible. From the old souks and more traditional side to the futuristic bright lights and modern architecture, I wanted to see it all on my Dubai stopover.

    Feeling perfectly rested after an overnight flight with Emirates, I had plenty of energy to run from place to place on my own steam. Still, if you would prefer to let someone else take care of the arrangements for you, you can either book individual activity tickets or a stopover tour through a local operator.

    Booking the Burj Khalifa viewing floors in advance makes total sense, and that can be combined with full Dubai tours. In fact, I realised after my Dubai stopover that much of what I saw on my solo-planned day was included in a fairly priced tour. While these are typically hotel pick-ups, you can always reach out directly to see if they can arrange collection from the airport.

    Overall, I found the city wasn’t as expensive as I had imagined on my Dubai stopover. I felt my 12-hour layover, which gave me about 8 hours outside the airport (clearing the airport was a breeze), was enough to see the highlights of the city. When I did my layover in Abu Dhabi, I only had time to see the Abu Dhabi Grand Mosque – so the longer you can arrange your stopover, the more you will obviously see. Keep an eye out on the Emirates website, as sometimes, on certain routes, they offer a free overnight stopover with a hotel included, which is handy if you are breaking up a long flight between Europe and Australia.

    Okay, so here is what I managed to explore on my 12 hours in Dubai stopover, using public transport. Keep in mind, depending on your flight times, you’ll want to check in advance when the lights show. The transport time came in around four hours to get between everything I crammed in. If you don’t want to rush, skip a couple of things. A standard one-day red ticket for the transport network is 20 AED and can be purchased from the machines at the airport.

    Stop One: Gold and Spice Souqs

    Transport: Airport (Red Line) > Palm Deira (Green Line: 18 Mins) > Walk (15 Mins) to Gold Souq> Walk (7 Mins) via Old Souq to Spice Souq

    Located near each other, you can easily combine the Gold and Spice Souqs of Dubai. Here, you can get a flavour of lively markets trading. These markets are somewhat more glitzy and tame compared to souqs in the likes of Morocco and Oman, although they still came with a degree of solid salesperson-pitch as you walked past the stalls.

    Colourful happenings occur on all sides while heavy carts glide past you. In the spice souq, all the colours that season the delicious local flavours can be found, as well as famous Medjool dates, which can be purchased in smaller quantities if you just want some snacks for the day.

    During my morning visit, it was relatively calm. I’ve been told later in the day, especially leading to evening, it gets much busier. Som depending on the vibe you want, you could decide to visit the souq’s later on in your Dubai stopover. I believe it closes for a while over lunch hours.

    Stop Two: Abra (boat) from Deira Old Souq Station

    Transport: Walk (2 mins) to Deira Old Souq Station > Take an Abra (20 mins) to Bar Dubai Station

    Hopping on an Abra is a must in Dubai, and it costs hardly anything to take one of these local boats across the river.

    The wooden boats are traditional to the Emirates, although they aren’t as commonly used now. This has become a bit of a tourist attraction for those wanting to see Dubai away from the glitz and glamour of sky-high hotels it’s now known for, but as they are mainly still used by locals to ferry between either side of the creek, it retains an authentic feeling and price.

    Stop Three: Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood

    Transport: Walk (15 mins) to Al Fahidi

    One of the parts of Dubai I was most excited to visit, and highly recommended by Lonely Planet, was the Al Fahidi historical neighbourhood.

    A far cry from the shopping malls and shimmering lights of the skyline, here you’ll find a relatively serene scene, with little traffic and quiet lanes – at least, they were when I visited. The old sandstone houses are mainly uninhabited now and have been converted into shops, museums and other cultural spaces, including hotels if you want to stay the night.

    I’d suggest spending an hour walking around here if time allows on your Dubai stopover so you can soak in some of the history of the area. Most of the quarter is around 100 years old, so it’s not like visiting some of the other historic neighbourhoods in the region with thousands of years of history. But it provides a nice contrast to modern Dubai. You can also find part of the old city wall here, which dates back to the 1800s.

    It’s a good reminder that Dubai isn’t just a glowing city of riches as it’s often portrayed. If there were one part of the city I wish a guide had accompanied me, it would have been here.

    Stop Four: Burjaman to Dubai Marina

    Transport: Walk (20 mins) to Burjaman Station > Dubai Marina (Red Line then Tram: 50 Mins)

    After a stroll through the residential area, broken by shops, hop back on the metro bound for the more modern and well-represented side of modern Dubai. For most, this is likely the area you’ll concentrate on during your Dubai stopover, although I really think digging into the culture and heritage of the city is a must.

    Straight away, when coming into Dubai Marina, the differences are stark. This is a much wealthier residential area, and here you’ll find the JBR beach, where you can grab a fancy lunch in the sun or get your feet in the sand.

    Close by is the Palm Jumeirah, the famous fanned-out artificial archipelago. Snap some photos from the outside. And be aware, even though it’s an expensive place to stay, entrance to the area is free. Though it’s not possible to enter on foot, you would need to take a taxi or buy a monorail ticket. I skipped it to save time, as, personally, it wasn’t of immense interest. There are plenty of other malls and walks around the area.

    Stop Five: Burj Al Arab and Beach (Palm Jumeirah)

    Transport: Dubai Marina (No 8 Bus: 30 Mins) > Burj Al Arab (I suggest skipping Palm Jumeirah, but you could switch up your route to include this)

    Instead of visiting Palm Jumeirah, I jumped a bus up to the Burj Al Arab, the sail-shaped hotel known for its opulence, beauty, and high-flying clientele.

    On the beach, looking out on the Burj Al Arab, you can snap some photos of the famous hotel, grab a bite, and enjoy a bit of beach time. The hotel is connected to the mainland by a bridge to the artificial island. But it is guest-only, so the only way to get in if you aren’t staying there is to make a restaurant reservation.

    Stop Six: Mall of the Emirates to Dubai Mall

    Transport: From Burj Al Arab (No 81 Bus 81: 7 Mins) to Mall of the Emirates Metro > Dubai Mall (Red Line: 15 Mins)

    If shopping is on your agenda during your Dubai stopover, you are spoilt for options. Nearby to the Burj Al Arab is the Mall of the Emirates, a large shopping centre, although I just used it here as a point to rejoin the metro and head over to the Dubai Mall.

    The Dubai Mall is another expansive shopping centre, with a whole range of shops and dining options, from budget chain restaurants inside to the more expensive dining options outside around the pools. Just be aware, eating here is where you’ll be paying a premium for the Dubai Fountain and Burj Khalifa.

    Stop Seven: Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Fountain

    Transport: Walking from the Dubai Mall/Burj Khalifa Metro through the walkway, less than 5 Mins

    Once you’ve dined and shopped, the sun should be starting to set, and this is where the famous Dubai Fountain wows the crowds with its illuminated water performance to music, set in the pools surrounding the Burj Khalifa, the towering hotel that is in fact, the tallest building in the world.

    You can get on little boats to float around the waters or, of course, visit the viewing floors of the Burj Khalifa. I would recommend booking this in advance as I wasn’t able to get up. Either way, here is an excellent place to wrap up your Dubai stopover, enjoy some food, watch the performance, and soak up the excitable, crowded vibe of the place where so many other locals and tourists have congregated for the Dubai Fountain.

    Stop Eight: To the Airport

    Transport: Dubai Mall/Burj Khalifa (Red Line) > Airport (30 Mins)

    And that’s a wrap – time to head back to the airport. I got to the airport about two hours before my next flight, and already, with my boarding pass, it was quick and easy to get through the airport security and customs. I could have likely pushed it to have another 30-45 minutes in the city, but I guess it’s always better to be a bit more cautious.c

    The Grand Mosque Abu Dhabi

    Want more? Head to Abu Dhabi

    I’ve only been to two of the Emirates, both on layovers, but unlike my Dubai stopover, I only had a short amount of time in Abu Dhabi, where I spent it visiting the Grand Mosque, one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen.

  • A long-weekend in The Hague, the perfect Europe city-break?

    A long-weekend in The Hague, the perfect Europe city-break?

    I’ll admit that before my long weekend in The Hague, I was a bit dubious about whether I could fill three days there. It turned out, though, that I was sorely mistaken. This Dutch city, best known for some of the most prestigious international institutions, offers every piece of the pie you could want for the perfect European city break.

    Chic beach clubs with chilled cocktails and golden sands, check. Dutch brews and an ever-growing dining scene, check. History, culture and interesting museums check. Laidback vibes that are perfect for exploring by bike check. The Dutch essentials: canals and tulips – well, a few.

    I think it’s fair to say Amsterdam steals most of the international attention and visitors The Netherlands receives, but with crowds and over-tourism becoming a real issue in the Dutch capital, so much so that Amsterdam tourism board is even promoting other destinations such as The Hague itself, consider visiting the royal and political capital of the country instead, The Hague.

    Whether you come for a long weekend in The Hague or just an overnight visit, here is some inspiration for your Hague itinerary that you can draw from and plenty of reasons to make Den Haag, as it’s known locally, your next Europe city break.

    A miniature Netherlands can be found at Madurodam

    Museums and galleries for all ages

    Museums and Galleries in The Hague aren’t all about the Peace and Justice side of the city. Whether you enjoy your long weekend in The Hague as a couple, solo, or with a family, you’ll find plenty of chances to admire art, learn about history, or interact with emotional displays of reality.

    There are a couple of museums I visited in The Hague that really stand out to me, the first being Humanity House. I wrote about this in-depth in my Hague Peace and Justice article, but the premise of the museum is to start to understand the journey of a refugee or migrant.

    The interactive experience walks you through just some of the steps that displaced people face on their journey to a new country, and that experience, coupled with the emotional stories at the end, makes this my number one museum recommendation in The Hague.

    Another fantastic spot, which is certainly not just for kids, is Madurodam, the ‘happiest war memorial in the world’. Dedicated to their young son, the parents of George Maduro, who died during WWII, set up this miniature theme park, which details the whole of The Netherlands in model size in dedication to his memory.

    If you are seeking more classical art, there are plenty of galleries in The Hague to visit. The most famous is Mauritshuis, a beautifully restored palace best known for displaying The Girl With The Pearl Earring. The building itself is just as worth a visit as the collection that adorns its walls. For contemporary art lovers, the modern collection at Galerie Ramakers or the graphic work of Escher in Het Palais might be preferred.

    If you don’t have time to make it out to the coast of The Hague, then Panorama Mesdeg houses a striking 19th-century panoramic image of the shorefront. Lastly, Museon is an ideal place to start your visit, especially with kids, although this museum is known for its easy-to-understand displays on all kinds of subjects, which makes it ideal for us big kids to take in the history and political situations in bite-size pieces.

    Inside an Indonesian Restaurant in The Hague

    Food, drink and a fantastic vegetarian and vegan scene

    Foodies in The Hague will feel spoilt, with abundant fresh food, funky restaurants, and an ever-expanding collection of vegetarian offerings. Thanks to some of the outstanding backstories many of The Hague’s dining options have, there is also an opportunity to dine with a conscience. For those who prefer chic beach bar vibes, the golden sands of Scheveningen are only a short ride away.

    One of my favourite meals in The Hague was at Love & Peas, a vegetarian restaurant that hit international newspapers when it opened a few years ago. Founded by a Palestinian and an Israeli together, with the goal of great hummus, this spot outside the city centre is a cosy setting with renovated furniture and a tempting array of mezze plates. The back story behind the duo coming together caused a wave as the divide in their homeland is obviously well known. Still, here, you’ll be welcomed as old friends and showered with all the incredible dishes I loved during my time in Palestine.

    If your love for Indonesian food is as high as mine, there are plenty of options to choose from here, thanks to the large Indonesian population in The Hague. I was reliably informed each one serves up delicious dishes, and Restaurant Garoeda, where I dined, put on a generous and scrumptious rice table, which will allow you to sample multiple dishes in one sitting.

    For those seeking a more indulgent fine dining experience, Tommy’s & Zuurveen is a must-visit. This beautiful venue brings together a delicious menu of high-end treats and offers both a standard menu and an entirely vegetarian option. I had some of the most exquisite food of my trip here, and the delightful setting in a warm palate of blues with charming finishing touches makes it an ideal spot for a romantic meal or a reasonably priced treat while visiting The Hague.

    Bringing funky beats and rooftop vibes to The Hague is Bleyenberg, inside a converted hardware store that is named after the old manager. Sitting amongst plenty of other fantastic dining spots on Grote Markt square, each room has great decor and occasional DJ sets, but on a sunny day, head to the top-floor terrace and enjoy a colossal salad overlooking the tallest buildings of The Hague.

    Drink lovers are spoilt too, Traditional ‘borrel’ – the Dutch word for gathering for drinks – is best enjoyed in one of the wood-heavy local bars such as at Café Huppel de Pub, which has an extensive menu of local and international brews. For a fancy cocktail, head to the Gold Bar in the Indigo Hotel, a gold-decorate bar in the old bank vaults.

    There are plenty more places for a mindful drink or conscious cafe options in The Hague. De Prael Brewery hires people who have a distance from employment and are soon to start brewing here as well as their Amsterdam location. At Moaz Vegan, you’ll find a whole host of meat and dairy-free treats while grabbing a coffee at Lola Bikes and Coffee will support various local projects in the community. For a spot of people-watching with traditional food, head to the happening square of Plein, where the tables of Barlow spill out under the tree-lined square and, at lunchtime, come alive.

    When the sun is shining, though, be sure to head out to the beach at Scheveningen, where a California vibe is present along the beach. Countless chic cocktail bars, wooden decked cafes, and fancy restaurants can be found here in the summer season, and it’s the perfect place to enjoy some fresh fish while catching the rays.

    I was honestly surprised at how fantastic the food scene was in The Hague, so whether you plump for one of my options or seek out your own spots, I’m pretty sure you’ll have a great meal.

    The Peace Palace at nightThe Peace Palace at night

    Peace, justice, politics and a slice of royalty

    The Hague is known as the city of peace and justice, and I actually visited over the weekend celebrating the UNs International Day of Peace. There are a whole host of activities, events and museums dedicated to The Hague’s peace and justice focus, and I wrote an in-depth guide to Peace and Justice in The Hague, which will give you a more detailed insight. But for an overview, here are a few places to enjoy during your long weekend in The Hague.

    Start your trip in The Hague at the Inner Court and The Hall of Knights, which is home to the Dutch parliament. The courtyard is always open to the public, and it’s quite surreal to be walking around or cycling past all these essential buildings in the evening. The reflection of the prime minister’s office in the large pond out the front is a beauty, while tours can take you inside The Hall of Knights to see the throne where the Dutch King gives his annual speech. From the Inner Court, it’s just a few minutes walk to the fantastic Humanity House museum I mentioned earlier.

    There is plenty of royalty to enjoy throughout the Hague, with a few palaces here, mainly working ones, which you can quickly see from the street or gardens. The Royal Court Quarter is the ideal place to stroll around and soak up this side of The Hague on a long weekend visit.

    When it comes to The Hague’s peace icons, though, The Peace Palace reigns supreme. This grand building has a fantastic history, which you can read about in my Hague Peace & Justice guide, but essentially, it holds two of the most important national courts: The International Court of Arbitration and the International Court of Justice. Try to book a tour during your long weekend in The Hague, as it’s a spectacular and humbling building decorated with gifts from countries worldwide. The more modern International Criminal Court is also in The Hague and has a visitor centre.

    War history is also honoured in The Hague, given the city, after remaining neutral, was quickly captured in WWII. The Hague became a vital part of the invasion of the ‘Artik Wall, ‘ and along the coast, you can still find war bunkers that are now open to the public to visit and display artefacts.

    Perhaps the most harrowing and, therefore, important spot in The Hague is the Nationaal Monument Oranjehotel, which has recently been reopened as a museum. During the war, it was here much of the resistance was held before being taken to concentration camps. Some of the cells remain as they were, with messages from inmates etched into the wall. It’s an emotional place to be in, but the curators have done a good job of being respectful while putting history on display.

    The Boulevard at The Hague’s beach

    California beach vibes on The Dutch coastline

    The Beach scene in The Hague seems to be the one that surprises visitors the most, I mean, who would have thought it possible to find in The Netherlands. During your long weekend in The Hague, a trip out to Scheveningen is a must if the weather is right, and there are plenty of things to enjoy on the coast.

    Heading to the coast in The Hague, you’ll pass the West Dune Park, both important for keeping the city from sinking but also where the war bunkers I mentioned above are.

    The main beach is Scheveningen, which is just a short bicycle or tram ride away from the city centre. Here, the year-round pier takes centre stage with its attractions, shops and bars, and all along this stip in the summer months, you’ll find countless beach bars, clubs and restaurants to suit all tastes. I was so surprised by the vibes here, with people on rollerblades and others knocking back Mojitos, I almost forgot I was in Holland!

    At the top of the pier is the Kurhaus of Scheveningen, a grand 5-star hotel which, although impressive from the outside and ballrooms, I’ve heard is a little dated inside. A walk along the coast will take you past The Fairytale Statues, a mix of comic-inspired metal creations, and a further walk will take you to the Harbour and Lighthouse, from here you can loop back on foot to the city centre.

    A street scene in The Hague city centre

    A packed-out, year-round event calendar

    The Hague might not be the biggest city in The Netherlands, but it does offer a year-round events calendar that you might want to plan your long weekend around. Here are a few of the top events in The Hague to keep in mind.

    The most important of these I believe is The Peace Weekend, in September, and if you are planning to spend your long weekend in The Hague around then, be sure to read my Peace Weekend guide.

    Other well-known events include Parkpop, a large one-day music festival in June, the Filmhuis Den Haag which is actually open all year round, and Art The Hague, a quirky and contemporary art fair that happens each October.

    There is much more than canals in The Hague

    Green spaces, outside activities and other gems

    It goes without saying that indulging in canal strolls, people-watching over coffee, and green spaces is one of the great pleasures of visiting The Netherlands, and a long weekend in The Hague offers plenty of gems to enjoy during your visit.

    The Palace Gardens are one of the sweetest inner-city spots to relax on a summer day, enjoying a picnic or reading a book in the shadow of a royal palace.

    For those who are seeking some retail therapy, The Passage is a grand old set of shops that is like a smaller version of Milan’s Gallerie, although it is mainly chain stores now, and there are plenty of fantastic boutique stores around the city to shop at.

    If you want to enjoy a coffee with a slice of history, head to the Hotel des Indes, whose huge downstairs cafe used to be open-plan and see horses and carts delivering guests to the staircase. It’s also where many celebrities will stay when visiting The Hague.

    Honestly, the list of things to do in The Hague on a long weekend is seemingly never-ending and will shower you with a mix of attractions, events and experiences that can cater to any traveller’s tastes. There aren’t many cities in Europe that can tick so many boxes, and for me, it makes The Hague a perfect European city break. I hope you agree when you make it to this fantastic city!

    Need to Know: The Hague

    A few tips and details to help you plan your visit to The Hague.

    Visiting during the UN International Day of Peace and Peace Weekend

    Getting to The Hague

    The Hague can be quickly reached by train from Amsterdam airport in around 30 minutes by car or train and is well connected to most cities in The Netherlands by train. Rotterdam-The Hague shared airport is even closed, although cheap flight options are more restrictive.

    Where to stay in The Hague

    During my visit to The Hague, I was hosted in the Staybridge, ideally located looking out on Parliament. This brand new hotel was converted from the Norwegian Embassy and offers a real home away from home vibe with social evenings three times a week. An all-suite hotel, the rooms provide comfy bedding and bathrooms, and an additional room with a lounge area and kitchen, which, given that many visitors to the city may be staying for extended working periods, figures. It was a perfect hotel, ideally located, and offered a great breakfast and bike hire.

    If you are visiting The Hague on a budget, there are hostel options, too, including the highly-rated Pink Flamingo Hostel and The Student Hotel.

    If you want to go all out, then book into the Hotel Des Indies, a truly royal and grand hotel in the city centre that has a long and distinguished history in the making of the city and has welcomed celebrities and royalty for years – even if you don’t stay here, it’s worth popping in for coffee as I did.

    Alternatively, if you want to base yourself by the beach in The Hague rather than the city centre, consider staying in a fully decked-out beach hut, which looks super cool, or the famous, grand and yet reviews say slightly dated, five-star Kurhaus of Scheveningen hotel.

  • Things to do in Puglia, Italy: a photo guide to the best places in Italy’s dazzling heel

    Things to do in Puglia, Italy: a photo guide to the best places in Italy’s dazzling heel

    There are countless reasons Italy has become my favourite country to travel, and the diversity between the North and South is the prime one. Puglia, sitting in the ‘heel’ of Italy’s boot feels a world away from the famous tourist city’s such as Rome, Milan or Venice, and provides an entirely different holiday destination to the North of the country.

    It’s more than just geography that provides a change of scenery; historical and economic differences are defined, from the food (olive oil versus butter) to the architecture. Italy is one of the most visited countries in the world, but somewhat surprisingly the north still takes the bulk of the share of tourists.

    But if you are looking for what many would call a more ‘authentic’ Italian experience, then you can’t go wrong with Puglia. With more and more international flights to Bari and Brindisi airports cropping up, it has also never been easier to visit.

    As a visitor, this dazzling region of Italy could keep you entertained for weeks, if not months, with a seemingly never-ending list of things to do in Puglia.

    Gentle cerulean waters lap at rocky beaches and contrast with dramatic rocky coastlines crowned with lighthouses. Grandmas hand-cut orecchiette pasta on squares in Bari, and Buratta, an extra creamy type of Mozzarella, hails from the region.

    Olive tree-filled valleys littered with UNESCO listed conical white buildings are broken up by white-washed towns lifted straight from a postcard. In the Foggia mountains, a slower pace of life takes place in hill-top towns where locals meet on squares to share stories and coffee.

    Puglia as a region offers something for everyone; and if you are like me, you’ll want to try everything it offers!

    Here is a list of must-visit places in Puglia, and the top things to do in Puglia to help you plan your trip, tried and tested by yours truly.

    How to get to Puglia

    Puglia is well connected to the rest of Italy with trains, including night train services from the north, and getting to Bari, the provincial capital, is straightforward. There are two main airports, Bari and Brindisi, which operate year-round but have more flights during the summer.

    Ostuni

    The ‘white city’ of Puglia, Ostuni gracefully grows up from its prime position slightly inland from the coast, and the drive towards the white-washed exterior gives you some stunning viewpoints to admire it from.

    Given the location of Ostuni and the number of things to do here, it would make quite an excellent base for exploring Puglia from if you don’t want to stay on the coast.

    The historical centre is dreamy, a running theme in Puglia, and you’ll be blown away the second you step through an old medieval gate into the centre. A mix of Gothic, Byzantine and Roman elements are combined in the Cathedral, while the labyrinth of alleyways brings never-ending photo opportunities.

    You’ll quickly realise in Puglia that the number one thing is to wander aimlessly. Each corner and new street bring more delicious views, or delicious gelato and Ostuni and Locorotondo are perhaps the two places this is most true.

    The white-washed cliff buildings of Polignano a Mare

    Polignano a Mare

    If you are thinking of Puglia, or indeed the south-coast of Italy, then rocky cliffs with white-washed houses perched over cyan waters might be the image that comes to mind.

    If it is, then you’d be thinking of Polignano a Mare, the poster-child for this region and coastline. In fact, if you have seen the (rather expensive) grotto-like restaurant built into the cliff on Instagram, then that is indeed here.

    Polignano a Mare is rightly one of the most famous destinations in Puglia. The main beach might be crowded in the summer months, but when I also visited in March, it was basically empty. The main draw, of course, is these viewpoints, which are best enjoyed with a Spritz if you ask me. There are plenty of dramatic spots to take in Polignano a Mare from, but perhaps the best is on the rocky outpost just beyond the town proper.

    Inside the town which is often missed on the striking coastal photographs, is a maze of white-washed streets behind the main walls. Gelato parlours are decorated with colourful flower pots, and squares offering alfresco dining dish out Puglian specialities. A train connects Polignano a Mare to Bari Airport, which also makes it one of the most accessible towns to visit on your Puglia trip.

    Alberobello

    Inscribed on the UNESCO world heritage list, Alberobello is one of the most famous small towns in Italy.

    I’ve been here in winter and summer, and it was just as busy both times, so I highly recommend spending at least one night here so you can rise early. Not only are the historic streets quieter, but the gorgeous golden light on the white-washed round homes truly brings them to life.

    The Trulli houses, Trullo for plural, can be found all across Puglia, with their conical roofs and white-washed exteriors, although many also still have their stonework displayed and have not been painted.

    With the highest concentrated density of Trullo in the region, Alberobello is a must-vist in Puglia, and the towns many tourist facilities, restaurants and visiting tour buses are a testament to its popularity.

    The Trulli part of the town is surrounded by a more modern, contemporary setting of typical shops and restaurants. In the historic centre, you can see a split between the more touristed side, where little shops and restaurants live in most the Trulli, and across where they are more residential.

    It’s incredible to think these low ceiling buildings are actual homes, and there are some you can venture in to see the set-up of how they were traditionally lived in. There are a few stories about why the Trulli became so popular, and the tax one due to not being permanent structures seems the most likely to me.

    Cycle through the olives of Trullo of the Valle d’Itria

    Valle d’Itria

    Linking together Albebello with some of the other top places to visit in Puglia, such as Locorotondo and Martina Franca, is the Itria Valley.

    Embracing the natural beauty of this inland valley is the name of the game here; whether through hiking, or taking a bike with Puglia cycling tours.

    A Karstic depression, rather than a valley proper, this stunning area is awash with vines and olive trees, with Trulli houses dotted throughout it.

    Joining a cycling tour through Puglia

    If you are looking for the quintessential Puglian sleeping place, then you can actually book into more modern and upgraded conical style Trulli accommodation here in the valley. Many of these are set amongst ancient Olive Trees and with swimming pools to escape the summer heat.

    Looking out from the castle of Sant’Agata di Puglia

    Sant’Agata di Puglia

    While the coastline and Trulli homes are rightly celebrated on most must-visit Puglia lists, head to the hills and mountains of the region for a completely different experience.

    One of those towns which just takes you back in time, Sant’Agata di Puglia is a few hours drive from Bari, but you’ll feel transported not to just a different setting, but a different time.

    In the Foggia province, popular for slow-travel and agritourism, you’ll find yourself in the hills and mountains, often with views to neighbouring regions of Italy. To the Apennines, these medieval villages provided strong visual outposts, and most have a castle or fortress sitting at their highest point.

    Towns such as Sant’Agata di Puglia aren’t the kind of places you come to tick off a long list of must-visit attractions, but rather to relax into an authentic pace of life.

    On the square, bordered by a few cafes, locals sit on benches and plastic chairs drinking espressos or beers and catching up. Small restaurants serve up traditional Cucina Povera, the peasant food of Southern Italy; an unfortunate name for such delicious cuisine, which may be simple in ingredients but not taste. Behind closed doors of the town, of which young and passionate archaeological staff hold the keys, old watermills and ancient underground wine cellars hide.

    The rooftops of Bovino

    Bovino

    Another hill town in the Foggia province, Bovina is a second must-visit place in Puglia’s hills.

    From the top of the Norman castle, you can see rolling hills of farmland, broken by the wooded areas of the Daunian Mountains. I learnt in Italy there is an official society for the ‘Most beautiful villages of Italy’ and Bovino is proudly on that list.

    Even in the late weeks of June, this town was quiet and felt very different from Bari where we had spent the night before.

    Stacked houses in Bovino, Puglia

    Knocking on a local door, we enquire to use the bathroom and are greeted by a broad smile and a look at the traditional crochet stitching going on in the living room. A large trophy for this ladies work sat in pride of place on the mantle.

    San Pietro Church is adorned by detailed artwork, and throughout the 2000-years plus historical centre, you’ll be lost in small streets and back alleys, occasionally stumbling upon a tiny cafe or restaurants with a handful of outside seats.

    The blissful waters of the Puglia coast

    Torre Sant’Andrea
    When Janet and I were picking up our rental car in Brindisi Airport, I saw an image of this blissful looking craggy bathing spot on the back wall of the hire office. I made Janet promise me there and then we would find time to drive there, she didn’t need much convincing.

    Given it was a large print in the airport, I don’t know why I had it in my head we would be stumbling upon a hidden gem as we arrived at Torre ‘ Sant’Andrea a few days later, but clearly, I’d got stuck on the wrong idea.

    This spot is stunning, and on a late afternoon in June, everyone in Puglia seemed to agree with me. The car park was over-flowing, and the yellow-hued rugged rocks were crowded with locals cliff jumping into the sparkling and refreshing waters below. Even with a mass of visitors, it is still a super attractive place, and one well worth stopping off at between Otranto and Lecce, but perhaps try and visit earlier, or later, in the day.

    Gallipoli

    Most visitors to Puglia tend not to visit the south-west part of the heel, and we were also guilty of this. So while I haven’t visit Gallipoli myself, I’ve heard a few people say ‘skip it, tourist trap’ but far more crying out we were crazy for not including it on our road trip.

    Either way, it’s on my list for when I return.

    The historic part of the city actually sits on a kind of island, jutting out from the mainland, and with some still looking sheltered bays for bathing, white-washed walls, and your common cathedrals, churches and castles that are found throughout Puglia, it has all the main ingredients of a Puglian town. Can’t say much more than that firsthand, but will add an update after my next visit.

    The beautiful town of Martina Franca

    Martina Franca

    We had no intention of stopping here during my first road trip in Puglia last November, but I was in desperate need of a toilet break.

    The hunt for a bathroom quickly turned into a maze-like operation, getting lost in the labyrinth of white streets that were strangely deserted in November, and I mean empty, we didn’t see a single soul for around an hour.

    On the main square, which is flanked by a towering Cathedral and has a curved portico style area, we enjoyed one of the best lunches of the trip, simple and delicious and washed down with plenty of wine for the non-designated drivers.

    Martina Franca is a short drive from Alberobello but had very few tourists, at least on the day I visited, which places it firmly on the Italy hidden gems list. In summer it hosts an opera festival which sees its visitor numbers grow.

    The town used to be completely walled off, and the large squares, little restaurants and spotless setting make this an ideal lunch stop if nothing else. While here be sure to sample Capocollo, one of the best cured meats in Italy. In fact, most of Puglia’s most celebrated cured offerings come from Martina Franca.

    City centre cooling down in Otranto

    Otranto

    On first glance at the photos on Google, Otranto might seem like any other Puglian coastal town: with perfect coloured waters and plenty of white-washed buildings.

    Otranto however, has quite a few surprises to enjoy. We started our day by jumping on a Piaggio Ape, a three-wheeler similar to a tuk-tuk or auto-rickshaw, and heading to the most easterly point of mainland Italy, a short drive from Otranto centre.

    Walking along the windswept coast, with wild herbs at our feet in the national park, we arrived at the Punta Palascia Lighthouse, where strong waves were battering the unique rock formations and caves along the coastline.

    On the return to the city, we stopped at the Laghetto Cave di Bauxite, where bright red soil, which reminded me of the red-centre in Australia, surrounded the human-made lake, now home to turtles and where birds come to drink. Once a quarry, but then abandoned, it’s new purposes as a nature park is far more appealing.

    Inside Otranto, beyond the bathing opportunities and the massive castle complex, the Otranto Cathedral is well worth a visit, even if you are feeling a bit over Cathedrals. The floor is laid out with incredible mosaics depicting heaven and hell, and in the back Chapel sits the bones of Christian martyrs who passed away here. The history and mosaics are worth learning more about inside.

    One of the beautiful squares in Lecce

    Lecce

    Often called the Florence of the South, due to the Baroque buildings that garnish the city, Lecce is a spot you’ll want to spend at least a night.

    Coffee culture is strong here, with a particular focus on almond milk iced coffee, and there are plenty of cool bars for both coffee, and cocktails, as well as an abundance of fantastic restaurants on little streets, and central squares with live music.

    With bell towers sprouting out of cathedrals, and a Roman amphitheatre, Lecce brings it with the architecture too. Some of the buildings are so old and constructed with such fine sandstone, there are places you can rub the walls, and they basically crumble, so try not to do that! We even saw part of windowsill fall while we were there, but happily heard that isn’t a common occurrence — a stunning city and a must-visit in Puglia.

    Locorotondo is one of the prettiest spots in Puglia

    Locorotondo

    If you are looking for things to do in Puglia, then a date with Locorotondo is a must!

    I’ll admit, when we finally parked up (parking not always being the easiest in Puglia) I was a bit dubious about Locorotondo, as the modern part of the town isn’t anything special. Take the short walk up the hill through to the old town, and you’ll be transported to a magical maze of white streets, decorated with hanging flower baskets and outside restaurant tables.

    I’m not really sure why Locorotondon became one of my favourite places in Puglia, but I absolutely fell in love with it. The coffee gave more of a kick here, the gelato felt sweeter here, and every time I turned a corner, my camera would start working overtime again. The name of the town comes from the circular shape it was built in, although this isn’t obvious from ground level. Be sure to add Locorotondo to your things to do in Puglia list!

    Gargano National Park

    This vast national park, over 120,000 hectares, is another place I simply haven’t had time yet to visit on my three trips to Puglia.

    Jutting out into the east-coast above Bari, and across from Foggia, this protected area is packed with unique flora and fauna, and the white cliffs and caves along the coast make the perfect compliment.

    If you love hiking and nature on your holidays, then be sure to include Gargano on your Puglia plans. You can hike or cycle through the remains of the historic Umbra Forest, or hit up the Tremiti Islands in the marine reserve to admire the caves. It looks a spectacular slice of nature, and I’m looking forward to returning to Puglia and finally making it here.

    Pasta making in an old windmill (and all the food!)
    You can’t write a list of the top things to do in Puglia, without considering the food.

    As I’ve said, the cuisine of the region has historically been made of simple ingredients, but truly delicious. This was due to the south of Italy having not just less money, but also one of the most apparent differences; the abundance of Olive Trees to make oil with, while the North of Italy would rely more on butter.

    It’s also an excellent place for Vegetarians and Vegans due to this, as oil is still most commonly used. Cheeses such as Buratta, a mozzarella style ball packed with cream, is everywhere and should be eaten at least once a day during your holiday if you ask me – not official diet advice at all ahha. Puccia, a type of sandwich based around pizza dough, is another must to eat in Puglia, as well as the orecchiette, ear-shaped pasta the region is famed for.

    One of the most interesting foodie experiences I had in Puglia was in Foggia, between my visits to Bovino and Sant Agata’ di Puglia.

    In an old watermill, dating back to the 1600s, which looked slightly in disrepair from outside, but fully working inside, the grain to make the pasta is still ground by the power of water and hard work.

    Olga and Massimo guided us through how to cut and roll the pasta to make the ear shapes most known in the region, and while I’ll undoubtedly win no awards for my contributions to pasta making, the delicious lunch they served us afterwards was thankfully not made by me!

    Brindisi is home to a second international airport in Puglia

    Brindisi

    We didn’t spend much time in Brindisi, other than a quick pit-stop after our late night flight arrival.

    I took a short stroll around the town in the morning, as the streets were starting to come to life and waiters ran espressos to outside tables.

    A port city, Brindisi doesn’t have quite the same photographic appeal as some of the other must-visit places in Puglia, but there are still a few things to do here, such as visitors the tall standing Monumento al Marinaio ‘d’Italia, the 13th-century castle, and taking in the Roman Columns on the square atop a grand staircase.

    Bari

    The capital of Puglia, Bari, is a port-city undergoing a sort of reinvention.

    For a long time, Bari was regarded as a slightly unsavoury destination, but it has been making a tourist comeback in recent years, and Lonely Planet even named it one of the best upcoming destinations in Europe.

    It’s a city that you might have to work a little harder to start to feel the true essence of. As my first visit here seemed a little dull, I joined a tour with Veloservice to really get to know the city better.

    Bari is a city of people, stories and food over attractions I’d say. Sure, the Casino is cool if you want a flutter and the Cathedral as grand as any other, but it was in the little alleys, small shops, and family living squares that I found the charm of Bari.

    Whether it was sampling delicious fried polenta out of a grandmas front room, while others on the square hand-cut pasta while chatting, or diving into a delightful Foccacia or cheese platter in a small local shop, while the owner talked us through with pride the production methods, Bari quickly warmed on me a lot more with a local hand to understand it.

    Sand dunes and water sports in the windswept park

    Parco Naturale e Regionale delle Dune Costiere

    This windswept natural park along the coast is home to sand dunes, wild herbs, and a long stretch of sand.

    While there are beach clubs set up here, and small towns to eat in, when we visited the winds were far too strong to sun lounge in. Windsurfing was in full swing though, and it’s no surprise that makes it a popular destination in Puglia for those who want to get airborne. Not far from Ostuni, the small peninsula resort town of Torre Canne is a sweet lunch spot.

    Manduria & Museum of Primitivo Wine

    In the unassuming city of Manduria, which stretches from the coast to the quiet streets inland during the summer, you’ll find one of the most unique wineries I’ve visited.

    Walking into the Museum of Primitivo wine, we were greeted with what looked like a petrol pump station and, indeed it was, but with a difference.

    These pumps weren’t dishing out fuel, but wine, and a loyal line of locals were having their bottles filled with the good stuff at about the same price, or less, than a litre of fuel.

    A unique set up can be found in the underground rooms, of which there are many, and it was in these rooms that the wine used to be stored before the conversion into a museum. You can actually see the stains on the wall of where the deep red wine colour has left its mark.

    Of course, you have to do a tasting after any wine tour, and the delicious mix of reds, whites and roses all went down a treat, even at ten in the morning. Great wine at great prices, so follow my lead and pop a few bottles in the car boot to enjoy later in the trip.

    Salento Coast

    This unspoilt stretch of coastline runs from the very south of Puglia, in Leuca, and up and beyond Gallipoli.

    If you like your beaches golden, and your waters azure, then this stretch of coastline is the perfect place in Puglia to spend a few days kicking back before or after enjoying everything else the region has to offer.

  • A quick guide to Palma de Mallorca: Spain’s best island city break?

    A quick guide to Palma de Mallorca: Spain’s best island city break?

    The grandeur of a Gothic Cathedral towering above the city, a labyrinth of brightly coloured walls enclosing tiny streets, shaded squares sound-tracked by birdsong and free-flowing fountains, and a plethora of delicious restaurants and nightlife. Welcome to Palma de Mallorca, the capital of the Balearics.

    The first time I visited the island, I hadn’t consulted a guide to Palma city, and my only plan was to avoid Magaluf and explore some of the other reasons to visit Mallorca island. Sadly, while doing so, I ended up accidentally avoiding Palma altogether. Having recently returned to spend a week in the city itself, I’ve managed to correct my mistake and discover many of the best things to do in Palma.

    In fact, I’d go as far as saying that Palma is an ideal city break, which is quite surprising for an island destination – yet, it ticks all the boxes; gastronomy, history, culture, and more than enough places to eat and drink in style.

    Here’s a quick city guide to Palma de Mallorca and what to expect from a long weekend in one of the most underrated cities in Europe.

    When to visit and how long to spend in Palma de Mallorca?

    Depending on how you wish to spend your time on the island of Mallorca, you could make Palma a two-day visit or a two-week holiday.

    Thanks to the regular flight schedules, even in the winter months, coming for a weekend or a long weekend will give you a chance to explore the top things to do in Palma and get a flavour of the island’s capital city. If you opt to use Palma as a base for longer, then it’s an ideal base (especially with a car) to take day trips out to other parts of the island – whether the story-book style inland villages or the breathtaking cove beaches of crystal clear waters.

    Deciding when to visit is also relatively easy, as the weather is pretty kind all year round. Unfortunately, I experienced the rainiest week the island had seen in twenty years, yet we still had a great time. Of course, if you are looking to visit the island more for sunbathing and beaches, most guides to Palma de Mallorca will suggest that summer is the best time to visit. However, with higher prices and more crowds, you may want to think again.

    The shoulder seasons in Spring and Autumn are always the best, in my opinion, for visiting Europe’s popular coastal destinations, and the same applies to this city guide to Palma de Mallorca. Given the city doesn’t close down outside of summer, it’s also one of the best winter destinations in Europe, albeit not as hot as the Canary Islands.

    Where to stay in Palma de Mallorca?

    Palma is a much bigger city than most people realised before arriving, which means there is an array of accommodation options for all budgets and group sizes.

    For many, an island getaway means booking a white-washed luxury villa, especially if you are travelling with a big group of friends or family members. Mallorca certainly has plenty of delightful options to choose from, although many are more concentrated around the smaller coastal resorts.

    There are, however, some good villa options very close to Mallorca hosted by Vida Villas, certainly close enough to take a bus or taxi in and out of the city, or you could opt to stay closer to a beach resort and drive into Palma for day-trips.

    On my recent visit, as I was travelling solo, I found the accommodation options to be pretty affordable in late November. I secured private rooms at both the New Art Hostel and another hotel (now closed) for under €30 a night and would happily recommend both.

    How to get to Palma de Mallorca?

    Palma de Mallorca is the main gateway to the Balearic Islands, and I was pretty shocked at just how large the airport is – this island is certainly no Spanish hidden gem. It is well served by budget and flag-carrying airlines from Europe and will soon start hosting direct flights from the USA. It’s a short drive from the city centre (expect to pay around €20 for a taxi) and is connected by the airport bus.

    An alternative is to arrive by ferry from Barcelona or Valencia. Various operators cover these routes to and from the mainland, both with day and night sailings. I paid €19 for an overnight sailing with GNV from Valencia and napped on a couch with my sleeping bag. Waking up to the views of Palma Cathedral through the window at blue hour was particularly special.

    The ferries are also great for island hopping, allowing a quick and easy way to experience the more laid-back things to do in Menorca, Mallorca’s chilled and pristine neighbour, or to go party crazy in Ibiza. The port of Alcúdia (Mallorca) provides the quickest sailings to Menorca, while Palma is best for ferries to Ibiza.

    Things to do in Palma de Mallorca

    One of the biggest joys for me about Spanish cities is just slowly taking in the colourful and historic buildings, the tile work, the plazas, and stopping here and there for a vinho or tapa. There are, however, some impressive attractions in Palma, and it’s well worth adding one or two of these best things to do in Palma de Mallorca into your schedule.

    Palma Cathedral – the top thing to do in Palma de Mallorca

    If there is one attraction that stands above the rest, both literally and figuratively, it’s Palma Cathedral. This Gothic Roman architectural feat looks good from all angles, whether admiring it from the outside across the still waters or seeing the stain-glass windows bouncing light around the imposing pillars inside.

    Royal Palace of La Almudaina

    Just next door to the Cathedral is the Royal Palace, also well worth visiting inside for the elaborately decorated carpeted rooms and idyllic setting in the courtyard. Dating back to the 14th century, there is plenty of history to discover within the Palace’s walls.

    Castell de Bellver

    A short walk from the city centre and promising fantastic views across Palma and the Marina, the uniquely shaped Bellver Castle is a bargain to enter for just a few euros. The rounded interior is rather impressive, and the views from the rooftop are especially special at sunset.

    The beautifully round Castle

    Es Baluard Contemporary Art Museum

    With mainly modern art collections from artists of the Balearic islands and international artists, this modern museum is ideal for a rainy day visit.

    Fundació Miró Mallorca

    Housing an extensive collection of paintings by the artist Joan Miró, who, while born in Barcelona, made his home later in Palma, the vast display includes sculptures, gardens and some of his most famous works.

    Head to the Beach

    It wouldn’t be an island city break without a bit of beach time, and the Platja de Can Pere Antoni is right on the city’s doorstep. While there are certainly much more tranquil bays further along the coast, you don’t need to go far to have your fit in the sand and a dip in the Med.

    Guide to Palma’s best places to eat

    After exploring all the best things to do in Palma, it’s time for Palma’s impressive food scene. From two Michelin Star restaurants down to tiny tapas houses, you are very much spoilt for choice. I did seem to find myself drinking more than eating during my last visit, but this is my guide to Palma de Mallorca’s foodie spots that I really would recommend.

    Mercat 1930

    A fantastic concept for some food and drinks, Mercat 1930 is essentially a big vintage bar area with tiled floors and an occasional DJ, where food stalls surround the tables in the middle with traditional Spanish and international cuisine.

    Find a seat, grab a drink from the bar, and then hit up the stands for as many small or large plates as you can manage. The owner and staff will go out of their way to ensure you have a good night that goes far beyond just grabbing a bite to eat in this very social atmosphere.

    De Tokio a Lima

    By far, the best meal I ate during my time in Palma was at De Tokio a Lima. With soothing music, dipped lighting, and impressive art, this swanky joint serves up a fusion menu of Peruvian and Japanese dishes with a Mediterranean twist.

    The ceviche was perfectly acidic and spicy, the Tuna Tartar delightfully dressed with Guava, and the meat was perfectly tender. Couple this with great cocktails, wine pairings and professional but not overbearing service, and you’ve got a fantastic lunch or dinner option as a treat.

    Tapalma Tapas Event

    If you find yourself in Palma during late November, then be sure to grab yourself some coupons for the Tapalma festival. These little coins can be exchanged for small plates at plenty of restaurants around the city, each highlighting their signature tapas dishes.

    One of my favourite little spots we ended up going to as part of Tapalma was La Trastienda Mallorca off the main boulevard; great food, service and an excellent shady location under a tree.

    Guide to Palma’s best places to drink and party

    While a lot of the ‘party’ attention in Mallorca, especially in the UK, is focused around Magaluf, you’ll be pleased to hear the nightlife in the capital city is much more enjoyable and, dare I say it, sophisticated. There are terrace cafes and bars on squares and boulevards, late-night cocktail venues with moody lighting, and plenty of trendy and hip spots to sip a craft brew.

    Here is my guide to Palma de Mallorca’s best spots to drink, including my favourite places I found myself boozing during my last visit.

    Rooftop views: SKYBAR at Hotel Almudaina

    You can never go wrong with a rooftop bar, and the offering of Hotel Almudaina is a great place to enjoy a cocktail or glass of local wine while admiring the Cathedral and the Mediterranean Sea beyond.

    Admiring the views from Castell Bellver

    Good Vibes: BigFoot

    This small and laid-back bar not far from the Cathedral serves up great beers and a mean margarita in a relaxed yet fun atmosphere until the early hours.

    Vintage & Tapas: Moltabarra Bar de Tapas

    Perhaps my favourite drinking spot in Palma, Moltabarra, is a trendy and vintage joint in the city centre. With a cassette rack to pick from instead of a duke-box, old magazines, records and typewriters decorating the shelves, and a delicious set of Pintxos decorating the bar, it’s a great place for both early and late drinks.

    Silent Disco: La Casa de Cookie


    Set on a quaint square near the centre, at first glance, this bar looks like a small and narrow spot with a heavy crowd upstairs. But, underground, you’ll find headphones waiting for you to enjoy a night of silent revelry – pick from mainstream pop, techno or indie on the headphones controller and enjoy the night!

    Late night: Avenida de Gabriel Roca

    Sadly, due to COVID, I didn’t make it to any nightclubs in Palma. However, many of the late-night bars we did end up in were along the waterfront at Avenida de Gabriel Roca. I can’t say any of them were particularly great or memorable, but if you don’t want the night to end, this is where you should be heading!

    Day trip ideas from Palma de Mallorca

    Mallorca has a lot to offer for every kind of traveller, whether it’s getting out on the water on a boat tour, scuba diving, hitting up some historic villages or heading into the mountains and thankfully, getting around Palma de Mallorca is pretty straightforward. Here are a few of my favourite day trips from Palma to consider if you stay longer than a weekend.

    Memorable: Port de Sóller

    One of my absolute favourite places to visit in Mallorca is Port de Sóller, a small bay and village on the island’s west coast. A big part of the magic is taking the vintage wooden train from Palma to reach here.

    The rickety wooden carriages slowly work their way through the verdant mountains, lemon trees hanging outside the carriage windows before you arrive in the town, where a small tram takes you to the coastline.

    Beach: Caló del Moro

    If you have a car, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to breathtaking bays and beaches around the island. To me, one of the most beautiful was Caló del Moro and the surrounding stretches, where rock formations, caves and cerulean waters dance around still bays perfect for swimming and relaxing.

    If you are without a car, you can still make it here by changing buses in Campos, although you may want to pick a closer bay to enjoy as a day trip.

    Quaint villages: Valldemossa

    Around a thirty-minute drive (also possible on the 200 bus) from Palma is the postcard-perfect village of Valldemossa, a popular spot for tourists and an ideal day trip from the city.

    Typical stone houses line the flower-drenched streets, set against the background of the dramatic Tramuntana Mountains. Explore the streets, soak up the atmosphere, and admire the impressive Monastery, the main attraction in this quaint village.

    Hiking: Tramuntana Mountains

    For those looking to get a little more active, the surrounding mountains of Valldemossa, the Tramuntana Mountains, which stretch along the whole west coast of the island, have plenty of hiking trails to enjoy for all levels. Or you could extend your city break into a one week Spanish trip hopping between all the idyllic hilltop towns.

    Local Flavours: Bodegas of Mallorca

    The wine history of Mallorca dates back to the Roman Period. There are many options for wine-tasting tours which depart Palma – whether it is to a historic windmill surrounded by vines or to take part in the traditional harvest around September, it’s an integral part of the island’s culture that you should not miss.

  • How To Spend a Weekend in Oviedo, Spain: Things To Do in Asturias’ Chilled-Out Capital

    How To Spend a Weekend in Oviedo, Spain: Things To Do in Asturias’ Chilled-Out Capital

    Cradled in the verdant hills of northern Spain’s Asturias region, Oviedo is a pretty, peaceful and mainly pedestrianised city break. Not only do the mountain backdrops dazzle, but so do the streets – this is regarded as Spain’s cleanest city.

    If you’re seeking a city in Spain to rush around and visit countless sights, this isn’t the one. But, if you want a laid-back city break with a couple of museums, a different culture to the country’s south, and excellent food and drink, you’re on to a winner.

    From hearty fabada stews to indulgent cachopo, the regional dishes impress. You can also expect the more than 40 kinds of cheese and local sidra to feature heavily during your weekend, too – this is the Spanish capital of cider, after all.

    Here’s how to spend a long weekend in Oviedo, Spain.

    A group play the Gaita Asturiana

    Arrival: Friday night

    My suggestions for this weekend in Oviedo are based on a Friday night arrival, and either a Sunday departure, or with an extra day for a side trip, extending your visit to Oviedo into a long weekend. All suggestions should work with the varied opening hours; however, it’s always best to check closing times (and remember Spain’s afternoon siestas) in advance.

    If after check-in at your hotel you’re looking for something low-energy to do this first evening, then it’s worth checking out the Campoamor Theatre’s programme. This stunning space is home to Spain’s second-oldest opera and certainly makes for a cultured start to your weekend in Oviedo.

    Day one: things to do in Oviedo

    After grabbing a lazy breakfast – Carbayones, a local egg and almond pastry, make for a sweet start to the day – dive into Spain’s art scene.

    Morning: See Fine Art at the Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias

    Free | Closed Monday | Accessibility: adapted access to parts of the museum

    Encompassing three different buildings – two of which are heritage – this Fine Arts museum holds an array of some 15,000 pieces. For a regional museum, it’s mighty impressive and brags one of Spain’s best collections.

    Works from famous masters such as Goya, Picasso and Dalí are on display, along with regional artists who you may not be familiar with. If you want to tour all three buildings, this will likely fill your whole morning. The museum closes for lunch at 2 pm.

    Get your fill of cheese in Oviedo

    Lunch: El Fontán, Cheese and Moscovitas

    A short walk from the Fine Arts Museum is Plaza de El Fontán, a perfect place to enjoy lunch.

    Before sitting down to enjoy some local delicacies, it’s well worth taking a little stroll around Mercado El Fontán. The market closes at 3 pm on Saturdays, and it’s shut all day Sunday, so align your timings.

    While it’s not the largest market, you’ll see the full range of Asturias cheeses and local specialities. It’s a good place to pick up items to take home, such as the beloved native white runner beans. If you want to take some cheese away, it’s better to ask for a wedge of the larger wheels or blocks and have this vacuum packed. They are usually of better quality than the small, individual wheels.

    Next door to the market is El Fontán square. Both inside the courtyard and around the 18th-century building, where trees and a bright-yellow facade create a postcard-perfect view, you’ll find places to enjoy a typical lunch. For a pricey sweet treat afterwards, head to Rialto and pick up a box of moscovitas, a local biscuit.

    Afternoon: Self-guided statue-focused walking tour

    Oviedo is a city of statues. There are around 100 outside figures dotted around the city. From busts and bums to notable figures, the sculptures provide something of a walking tour. So, keep your eyes peeled as you explore the city.

    You’ll also want to keep an ear out for the Gaita asturiana. On the weekends, walking bands often play this local bagpipe-style instrument, adding a typical soundtrack to the city.

    From El Fontán, head to Plaza de la Constitución. Flanked by the impressive Town Hall, it’s one of many pretty squares in the city. If you want to research some day trip ideas, you’ll also find the Asturias tourist office (which closes at 5 pm). From here, continue to Plaza del Paraguas, and just behind, you can spot the remains of Oviedo’s medieval walls.

    Returning to Plaza de la Catedral (where the Fine Arts museum was), take a peek inside the Cathedral of San Salvador of Oviedo. Personally, I find the ornate details on the outside the prettiest.

    From the square, it’s a straight road to San Francisco Park. This green lung in the centre of the city is worth a stroll, and you’ll find one of the city’s most beloved statues here, Mafalda, an Argentinian cartoon character. Being one of the first city’s in the world to be nearly fully pedestrianised in its core, strolling Oviedo’s streets is a real joy.

    Evening: Sidrería Tierra Astur, followed by more cider!

    Even if you aren’t a fan of cider (sidra locally), it would be criminal not to try it in Oviedo. Chigre (cider houses in Asturian) are dotted around the city, ranging from the typical to the funkier. One of the latter is Sidrería Tierra, a local chain with a few spots. I’d suggest the El Vasco branch for the most surreal experience.

    I didn’t think Oviedo’s love for cider had any surprises left for me until entering this bar-cum-restaurant constructed from literal cider. With around 100 staff rushing around, cider being poured from a high with droplets landing on the sawdust-covered floor, and some 18,000 bottles decorating the place – with even more chilling in the streams running through the dim-lit venue, there is a LOT going on!

    Cheese is a prominent feature on the menu, and there are plenty of other local and hearty dishes. But, let’s be honest, this is a place you come for the sidra and spectacle rather than first-class grub.

    In these bars, the natural cider is uncarbonated, then expertly poured from high by an escanciador. This style of pour helps add air to the beverage as it hits the glass. Only a small amount is poured at a time and needs to be drunk instantly while the bubbles are still forming. It’s fun, traditional and very entertaining – but it takes some getting use to waiting for a new pour every time you want a sip

    To continue the party into the early hours, head to Calle Gascona. Known as the “Cider Boulevard” you won’t miss it – partly due to the giant wooden keg, but also the loud atmosphere.

    Day two: things to do in Oviedo

    Sunday’s focus is all about stepping back in time. Discover some of Oviedo’s oldest UNESCO treasures, and get beyond the city limits and into the green exterior.

    Morning: Visit the Archaeological Museum of Asturias

    Free | Closed Monday and Tuesday | Accessibility: on foot only

    Start your day at the interactive archaeological museum (it’s closed Sunday afternoons) and learn about Oviedo’s UNESCO World Heritage Site before visiting them later in the day.

    Focused entirely on Asturian archaeology, the museum isn’t the biggest, but there’s more than enough to see across the three floors. The collection of archaeological discoveries is well presented, and the setting, inside a former 16th-century monastery, adds a nice touch to the displays.

    Spanning from pre-history until more recent times, the interactive elements add a nice touch to submerge you in history. The areas focused on the World Heritage Sites are particularly interesting, especially as a reference point if you visit the pre-Romanesque churches during your visit.

    Tuck into Cachopo at La Corte de Pelayo

    Lunch: Typical dishes at La Corte de Pelayo

    One of my favourite restaurants in the city; I always make sure to enjoy a meal at La Corte de Pelayo whenever I return. While it’s a big dining space, it’s well-established and popular, so you may want to book a table in advance.

    Here are a few dishes you’ll want to order to get a taste of Asturia.

    Start with the Fabada asturiana, a typical stew from the region. This hearty dish is based on the famed local beans, which, as you may have seen at the market, command a premium price tag. They are then topped with meat, such as morcilla and pancetta.

    I find this dish tootoo heavy as a main course, and I like that it’s offered as a smaller starter version here. The meat also comes on a separate plate for you to add, so if you’re vegetarian, I’d assume it’s not hard to ask for the dish sin carne.

    For the second course, take the cachopo. For this dish, two veal steaks are stuffed with cheese and ham and then coated in breadcrumbs before frying. Is it healthy? Not really, but it sure tastes good. Opt for an Asturian wine if you want to pair the meal with a local drink that isn’t cider. The reds from Cangas are particularly good, and for an aromatic digestive, try the local Licor de Hierbas.

    Church of Santa María del Naranco

    Afternoon: See the pre-Romanesque monuments

    Free | Entry requires a paid tour, only available certain days

    On the city limits – heading towards greener pastures and the slopes of Mount Naranco – well-preserved Catholic temples provide an in situ expansion on the archaeological museum. It will take around 45 minutes to walk here, or you could hop a taxi or use the city A-C bus most of the way.

    These pre-Romanesque churches are still standing proud, telling an over 1000-year-old story. While you can’t enter without a guide, you can study the facades and exterior. Heavy restoration work and reconstruction have taken place, and these are just two of the sites which make up the World Heritage-listed locations of what was once the Kingdom of Asturias.

    The larger of the two, and the first you’ll arrive at, is Santa María la Real del Naranco. Impressive – for the design and distant Cantabrian Mountains background – the building was completed in 842, initially to serve as a palace.

    A short walk beyond, and you’ll come to the equally as old but slightly smaller San Miguel de Lillo. On tip-toes, you can peer in the window and see some of the internal wall decorations in the space that was once King Ramiro I’s chapel. Above, the typical triple-arched windows are visible, so treasured they now form one of the modern-day logos of the Asturias region.

    Day three: day trips from Oviedo

    Once you’ve explored the city, soaked up the sidra, and spotted all the statues, make the most of your third day by exploring another part of Asturias to wrap up your long weekend in Oviedo.

    Option one: the coast – Gijón

    Gijón, around 30-minutes from Oviedo, is an easy day trip if you want to get to the beach. While lounging on the sands is great, there are also a few sights you could take in during your visit.

    Admire the city’s Art Nouveau architecture, venture underground to the old Roman Baths, or even visit the Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura, Spain’s largest building with a difficult past.

    Option two: the cider and cheese – Cabrales

    Asturias’s gastronomy is particularly famed for two things – cheese and sidra.

    An ideal day trip from Oviedo is to go and discover them both in the verdant countryside if you have a car. While it is possible to do this by bus (with a change in Villanueva), it might be complex and lengthy as a day trip.

    First, head to the caves of the Cabrales cheese – it’s around 90 minutes each way. This is one of the region’s most expensive and typical blue cheeses, though the strong flavour won’t be for everyone. In Las Arenas, you’ll find the Cueva del Queso de Cabrales museum. Here, you’ll walk through the production method and be taken inside the caves for a tasting of this award-winning blue cheese, still produced by rural farmers until this day. Be sure to check times and book ahead.

    On the return, call in at a small cider-producing house – sorry, designated driver. Sidrería El Pareón is a good stop and only a slight detour off the AS-114.

    Option three: the countryside – Las Ubiñas

    The lush and verdant Asturian countryside is a delight to explore, and if you want to reconnect with nature, it’s easily done.

    My favourite getaway is the Picos de Europa national park. This rugged and remote mountain range is one of the most impressive in Europe, however, it may be difficult as a day trip. There are a few guided tours to the park – such as Covadonga Lakes – but be prepared for a long day.

    For something a little closer, venture to Las Ubiñas. Car is easiest, but there are some access points by bus from Oviedo, such as Las Ventas.

    Inside the nature park, expect jagged peaks, incredible panoramas, and blissful hiking trails. Home to some particular species – such as brown bears – the habitat is pristine and protected.

    When to visit Oviedo, Spain

    Having visited Oviedo in spring, summer and autumn and had surprisingly decent weather and good visits each time, I’d say it’s a nearly year-round destination. However, this is northern Spain, so I suggest avoiding the winter when showers can be more common, especially as much of Oviedo’s appeal is outside. That said, if you just want to eat and drink well, it’s a good city break any time of year.

    Summer in Oviedo is also much more pleasant than in the south of Spain, where temperatures soar from June to August, and with many locals flocking to the coast, the city isn’t too overrun or hot to enjoy.

    Where to stay in Oviedo, Spain

    Having stayed in both mid-range and more upmarket accommodation over the years, here are a couple of my suggestions.

    Budget(ish) – Duerming Longoria Plaza Hotel Oviedo doesn’t have too much budget accommodation, but this spot is pretty affordable for a private room in a decent location. I stayed here on my first visit to Oviedo, and the fair prices and clean rooms make it a reliable pick.

    Mid-range – Gran Hotel España This hotel far exceeds the price. Great value, especially if you can get one of the top floor rooms with a little balcony – ideal for a sunny day. Modern and well-decorated rooms with coffee machines, a decent hotel breakfast, and a small lounge bar. I was very happy here on my most recent visit.

    Luxury – Barceló Oviedo Cervantes I haven’t stayed at this Barceló, but their hotels have always delivered great service, clean and well-designed rooms, and a calming atmosphere in other cities, so I’m sure this is a great pick if you want a more premium stay.

    Welcome to Oviedo, Spain

    How to get to and around Oviedo, Spain

    Oviedo’s centre is pretty compact and flat, so exploring on foot is the way to go. You can also walk out to the out-of-city churches, although this is quite the stroll – the city’s bus network can reduce that walking time significantly.

    Travelling to Oviedo by train and public transport

    If you’re coming to Asturias from elsewhere in Spain, then the train service is likely the best connection for your weekend in Oviedo. Buses are also a decent alternative. From Madrid, the journey by train takes around 4-5 hours on Renfe’s high-speed rail service, with direct connections, although sometimes a change in

    Train tickets, especially for long-distance journeys, which you should book in advance, can be made directly on the Renfe website (usually cheaper) using one of the popular and best travel apps, such as Omio. ALSA is the leading bus company for intercity travel in Spain, and the journey from Madrid takes around the same time and provides an alternative.

    BlaBlaCar, a car-share service (where you book a spare seat in the car of someone already making a journey), is also very popular in Spain and worth checking out if you struggle to find a direct connection from your starting point.

    Travel across Spain by train

    Travelling to Oviedo by plane

    The nearest airport to Oviedo is Asturias Airport, a 40 minute journey by bus from the city. Currently, there are limited flights from this airport, including from London, however the schedules have been growing rapidly each year.

    Travelling to Oviedo flight free from the UK

    If you want to visit Northern Spain from the UK without flying, you have two options. Though personally, I suggest with this type of journey you plan to spend at least 7 days in Spain to make this trip worthwhile.

    The first is to take the Eurostar to London, and from there, the train to Bayonne. To cross from France to Spain, you can opt for a two bus connection via Bilbao (likely slightly cheaper). You can expect this route to take around 16-hours if timed well.

    An alternative is to take the ferry from the UK, operated by Brittany Ferries, either departing Portsmouth or Plymouth (though some sailings are only in summer), and arriving in Santander or Bilbao. Both journeys involve two nights aboard the ship. From either arrival point, you can continue by car if driving, pick up a rental car, or take an ALSA bus, which will take between two and four hours.

    If returning the same way, you might want to consider spending a night in San Sebastian before sailing back, another enchanting coastal destination with one of the best culinary scenes in the county.

    Where to travel after Oviedo

    After your weekend in Oviedo, it’s easy to continue your journey to Gijon on the Asturian coast, head south to the architecture-studded city of León, or take the train to one of the many other best places to visit in Spain.

  • Holafly, the eSIM for travelling to Europe and avoiding roaming fees

    Holafly, the eSIM for travelling to Europe and avoiding roaming fees

    Sadly, the days of travelling with just a beat-up map and our gut instincts are long gone, and while it’s still nice to dabble in some off the beaten path adventures in Europe or further afield, the digital world we live in has undoubtedly changed the way we travel forever.

    Don’t get me wrong; there are still times I love to disconnect from everything and leave my phone at home. Whether that’s hiking in Peru or getting lost in the mountains of Tajikistan, there is no denying the sense of freedom is liberating. But then there are times when I want to be connected to the internet, not just to friends and family elsewhere, but also to the technology which can improve my trip. Over the last few years, I’ve really embraced how technology can improve my travels using the phone we all have in our pockets.

    Being able to converse with someone in Spanish or German thanks to a language app, for example, or paying a fair price for a taxi in Croatia because I can instantly work out the Kuna conversion rate, are both very helpful things that can improve the travel experience. I even use my phone when travelling to book car-pooling on BlaBlaCar or manage booking reservations on WhatsApp – the bottom line is that having a good internet connection has become somewhat essential when travelling around Europe or anywhere for that matter.

    Now, with the changes of Brexit officially kicking in and many phone operators breaking their promise not to reintroduce roaming charges, visitors from the UK (and indeed, outside of the EU) have to consider the best way to stay connected while travelling in Europe without paying more in charges than before, and an eSIM for travel to Europe from Holafly might be the most convenient solution, depending on the length and style of your holiday – due to restrictions on hotspot use. However, it might not be suitable for those working remotely.

    Most modern phones can accept an eSIM but be sure to check your device

    How have roaming charges affected travellers from the UK visiting the EU since 2022?

    This is a tricky question to answer, as I have seen in recent months some operators who promised not to bring roaming charges back make a U-turn and introduce costs, while some others have kept their promise – albeit with reduced data caps.

    Essentially, UK mobile phone operators no longer have to follow the laws regarding roaming charges as legislated by the EU Parliament. As such, operators will set their own charges and rates, and you can usually easily check these on your provider’s website.

    However, one good piece of news is that the UK government has made their own laws to at least limit these new roaming costs, if not to ban them altogether. This includes a monthly £45 limit on what you can be charged before the operator must make you aware, and then you’ll need to opt-in to further charges.

    What is an eSIM, and how does it differ from roaming?

    An eSIM is a relatively simple yet very clever technology that allows your phone to connect to an internet provider without needing to physically insert a SIM card.

    This technology is available on most new phones and makes for a solid alternative as an eSIM for travel to Europe can be quickly set up (before or during your trip) without the need to visit a shop to physically buy one.

    The other bonus is it operates alongside your original SIM, so you don’t need to remove your own country SIM and can still receive texts and calls.

    Suppose your operator is increasing roaming charges from the UK, or you are travelling from any other country outside the EU which doesn’t offer roaming at a fair price. In that case, you may want to consider this modern and alternative option.

    How to get an eSIM to travel to Europe?

    There are various different companies offering eSIM, as the technology has been around since 2015. Most recently, I have used Holafly and found the process of getting setup up very simple. The most crucial first step is to check if your phone can accept an eSIM.

    From the Holafly website, you can select the package you want – the number of days and amount of data – and make the purchase.

    Moments later, I received the eSIM by email, and to set it up on the phone, it was a matter of scanning a QR code, activating the correct settings using a simple-to-follow guide, and then it was instantly activated. It’s worth noting that the eSIM data and days begin the moment you activate it, so you want to do this on the day you travel at the earliest, not before.

    You’ll also want to ensure you have data roaming turned on for the eSIM and, more importantly, turned off for your original SIM so that your regular connection doesn’t still activate when you are travelling and rack up those fees.

    What are the advantages of an eSIM?

    I’m going to focus mainly on the benefits of using an eSIM for travel to Europe; however, many of these advantages would apply wherever you are travelling, and Holyfly offers eSIM for many destinations as varied as Australia and Ghana, to other multi-country bundles like Latin America.

    • The main benefit, of course, is being able to stay connected to the internet, check maps, keep in touch, order taxis, etc. All the things you would generally use data and roaming for without incurring any roaming charges.
    • Simple pricing for the number of days with unlimited (fair rules) data.
    • You retain your old number in your phone, as it becomes a dual SIM phone while the eSIM is activated. This is super handy as you can still be contactable by phone and text to your original number. Anyone who has ever dealt with changing a SIM card in a bar because their bank wants to send them a text message before payment, or something similar, will appreciate how helpful this is.
    • It’s more environmentally friendly – no packaging and no little SIM cards creating more plastic waste for a short trip.
    • Great for general holiday use, however, restrictions on tethering and hotspot use makes it less useful for remote workers.
    • Super convenient, as you don’t need to go and find a local store or buy a SIM. Sometimes I’ve wanted to get a SIM at the airport, so I have one to navigate straight away, but there weren’t any shops, or it was out of hours. Also, some countries require paperwork to get a SIM card which can take a lot of time. I imagine if you’re on a busy trip or a business person, this alone makes it appealing.
    • 24-hour customer support
    • Immediate delivery and setup

    What are the disadvantages of an eSIM?

    Of course, being a relatively new technology and having a couple of limits to its use, there are a couple of disadvantages to keep in mind, although these might not be a problem for most people.

    • You can’t receive calls or texts as it’s a data SIM only. This won’t be a problem for most people, as you’ll still have your standard SIM card in for any emergency calls; however, if you need to make lots of local calls and texts during your trip, it might not be the best solution.
    • Unable to be used as a hotspot (a recent change, with the introduction of unlimited data) so not ideal for anyone remote working.
    • Only compatible phones can use an eSIM, so you may still require a physical SIM card instead if you have an older model.
    • They can be slightly more expensive than using a local SIM card in some destinations, depending on the length of your trip and how much internet you will use – for example, if you need heavy bandwidth as you’re working remotely. For a lot of people, the convenience of not needing to waste your holiday time buying a SIM in a shop will outweigh this, but something to consider when budgeting.
    • You need to keep an eye on your data usage within your own phone’s settings. You won’t get a message advising you when you have nearly used it all up.
    Explore the magic of Spain without roaming charges

    How much does an eSIM for travel to Europe cost?

    The cost of an eSIM itself is free, and you aren’t paying for the initial eSIM or setup. Thus, the cost depends on the package you choose (and the destination, for example, if you want to get an eSIM for another country).

    You can see the current prices of an eSIM on the Holafly website and keep an eye out for sales, as you could buy the eSIM ahead of your trip and activate it when you depart. I expect this technology to expand and become more and more popular in the coming years, which will likely lead to even lower pricing. Mostly, they charge by the number of days, with an unlimited data cap (fair use rules apply)

    I’d suggest using caution in how much data you buy (if it’s an eSim without unlimited data) so that you don’t spend more money than you need to. This is the beauty of an eSIM. You can simply buy another one if you run out of data and activate it in minutes without going into a store.

    Overall, I found Holafly eSIM a good alternative to roaming and depending on how long your trip is and how much you’ll be using data, you might want to consider this option. Especially if you don’t want the hassle of having to deal with changing out your SIM on arrival, an eSIM for travel to Europe is certainly the most convenient option.