Category: Travel

For such a minuscule country, San Marino provides a fascinating collection of unique facts, outstanding views and an impressive history. Given its size though, many people opt to take just a day trip to San Marino from one of it’s neighbouring Italian cities and not spend a night or more getting to know it.

As the fifth smallest country in the world, and surrounded by Italy, it’s easy to see how San Marino could merely be a novelty country tick while travelling around the best places to visit in Emilia Romagna, Italy. But I for one think that this micro-state deserves at least one night of your vacation.

Overnight or day trip to San Marino?

San Marino is more extensive than most people would assume, given the old town of the nation, with its three towers perched on the hill, gets most of the attention. But further down from the towering position on Monte Titano there are actually other towns and spots to visit, though none really have the charm or draw of the historical section.

The real reason I think you shouldn’t take a day trip to San Marino but stay overnight is because of how magical it becomes once the sun starts to set.

With a stunning vantage point over-looking Italy, the ocean, and on a clear day as far as Croatia, the sunsets here are mesmerising, especially as a backdrop to one of the three towers that flank the mountain.

But more than just the sunsets make an overnight stay in San Marino attractive; I found once the day-trippers left a sense of serene charm set across the historic old town. With sandstone streets quickly became devoid of crowds and the real magic of this micro-state was revealed.

With only around 1000 beds for tourists to stay over-night here, and no cars and few residents, by evening San Marino feels like you have wholly stepped back in time.

Delicious dinners with breathtaking views, ample architectural and design wonders, and a peaceful feeling of being on top of the world transport you far away from the group-tours and naff novelty shops that seem to rule supreme in the day.

I stayed at the Hotel Titano which was rather grand and had a fantastic view from its restaurant. My room was on the lower floor, and the quality of the room and views weren’t as good as my friends Janet who had a refurbished room higher up, so if you do book in here request to have a higher, newer room.

How to get to San Marino?

Whether you are planning to visit San Marino on a day trip, or to stay overnight, your routes will likely be the same.

If you are self-driving then this will likely be the easiest way, and although cars are not allowed in the historic centre itself there are some car-parks both nearby, and others further afield with buses to get you to the old town.

It’s best to discuss parking options with your accommodation and heed their suggestions, especially if coming in the peak tourist months as parking isn’t exactly unlimited.

As such, I’d suggest making the most of the great public transport links to get you too and from San Marino and although the buses will take you right to the top, hop out a stop earlier to take the cable car for an extra vantage point of rising to the top of Monte Titano.

The coastal city of Rimini in Emilia Romagna is your best connection to San Marino given its ample parking, train and air connections. From here you can take a bus to San Marino in under an hour and for around 10 Euro.

The buses leave from outside Rimini train station, so you can quickly arrive here from other cities in Italy. A direct bus service from Bologna airport also connects to Rimini Station, and from here you can transfer onto the San Marino bus.

Two companies operate the San Marino bus route, and the timetable varies between summer and winter. The option of taking a coach day trip might appeal more to those who want to visit from other parts of Italy and avoid the connections in Rimini, though if you plan to have an overnight stay in San Marino then taking the bus I believe is your best option… but why visit San Marino anyway?

10 Reasons to visit San Marino

I’ve been to quite a few of the micro-states in Europe, and usually, within half a day I’m ready to move on. In San Marino, though I was captivated by both the unique facts of the country, ranging from its calendar to its government, but also the beauty of the landscape and architecture.

As a photographer, I enjoyed my time here, and with so many different angles and lookouts, you can marvel out or in at the unique location on Monte Titano. Here are a few reasons you should visit San Marino.

1.San Marino is the fifth smallest country in the world and the least visited in Europe

Now, if that’s not worth visiting for some bragging rights, I don’t know what is? But seriously, small countries can sometimes be more of a novelty than an exciting visit but San Marino bucks the trend due to some of its unique facts. You can get a passport stamp here, the postage stamps of the country given its size are worth a handsome chunk with collectors and, uniquely given in the old town you won’t see cars, the number of vehicles in the country outnumber people.

2.The three towers of San Marino offer amazing views

The three towers of San Marino are the postcard-perfect images most associated with the republic, and the views from these over the surrounding landscape are impressive. But the actual towers themselves provide beautiful visuals thanks to their placement and construction and the paths between them take you on a walk across much of the old town.

The three towers of San Marino are the postcard-perfect images most associated with the republic, and the views from these over the surrounding landscape are impressive. But the actual towers themselves provide beautiful visuals thanks to their placement and construction and the paths between them take you on a walk across much of the old town.

3.It is one of the oldest republics in the world with a fascinating history

San Marino was founded in A.D. 301 by a stonemason, Marinus, thus making it one of, if not the oldest constitutional republics in the world. The country stayed neutral through two world wars, turned down Napoleon’s offer to help the country expand its landmass and is devoid of any official religion, with state and church wholly separated and even the main church in the country is used for non-religious meetings and purposes. I highly recommend joining a walking tour in San Marino to learn more of its history.

4.San Marino has their own calendar, starting from the founding date of the Republic

Another quirky fact about the country is they have two calendars, and while walking around you’ll often see two different years/dates on certain things. This is because the countries official calendar began on the day the republic was founded in A.D. 301.

5.There are two presidents at a time, only holding office for six months each

San Marino as a republic and a firm believer in Liberty, has one of the most different parliament setups in the world. There are always two presidents at any time from different partys, and the term only runs for six months.

This allows there to always be new voices and open discussions around any laws and help represent a more significant number of people without having one single party or leader. The presidential cars can often be seen parked outside of the parliament building on the square and although a driver and car are assigned to the president while in office, on the last day they lose the car and have to walk or find their own way home, to show the returning to a normal citizen.

6.Surrounded by Italy, surprisingly San Marino is not part of the EU but does use the Euro

You would expect a country who has a complete land border with Italy would also be part of the EU, but San Marino is not. It does, however, use the Euro, and a small amount of unique San Marino coins are produced. Though it doesn’t enforce any physical borders, to immigrate into the country is very hard, and it does not recognise dual citizenship

7.Don’t call anyone Italian; the locals are Sammarinese

The people of San Marino are indeed not Italian but are known as Sammarinese. Within a short time in the Republic you’ll pick up on the sense of pride its citizens have, and given its size, it’s impressive that local wines and goods are produced here, though most products end up being exported to Italy due to the small population size.

8.The city has a weird collection of unique museums

If you love a good museum, then San Marino has some unique ones for you to pick from with a collection of over ten.

From the Museum of Torture, which is self-explaining, to the museum of Curisities which houses a bizzare collection and has no real relation to San Marino, the small museums are good for a rainy day. With more traditional art or weapon museums on offer too, most often it’s actually the stunning architecture of the old San Marino buildings that make it worth the ticket price. If you plan to visit a couple then look into the San Marino card for a discount.

9.The national sport is Crossbow, and the San Marino Grand Prix happens in Italy

Given the tiny population of San Marino, it’s no surprise their football team have never qualified for the Euros, but the national sport here is actually Crossbow, and you can watch it occasionally in the minuscule national stadium which is set up for this sport.

The other reason you may have heard of San Marino is for its old Grand Prix, but given the hilly landscape and little space in the country, the San Marino GP actually took place in the Italian town of Imola.

10.The views across Italy and the coast are some of the best you’ll see

I’ve said it a few times in this post, but the vantage point of Monte Titano provides some truly spectacular views. If you are lucky enough to visit on a clear day, looking out at Italy around you and the ocean in the distance is the perfect romantic spot for an impressive dinner or simply to capture some gorgeous holiday snaps.

And then once you have visited this stunning country, be sure to explore all of the amazing towns in Emilia Romagna next, it might not be as famous as other regions such as Tuscany but it is packed with some of Europe’s best hidden gems and an incredible food scene, enjoy!

In only four days I had seen classical opera tenors have sing-offs with 21st-century DJs to the backdrops of castles and fireworks, watched the sun set behind the lovingly restored Baroque skyline of Dresden before sauntering off to sink hipster brews in it’s modern, street-art strewn quarter, and spent the morning hiking through towering sandstone rock formations followed by rehydrating in the shade of a vineyard.

Saxony combines old and new in a captivating cocktail that shouldn’t work, but tastes so good you want to order another round. Mother nature’s most beautiful work sits alongside castles and engineering marvels while the streets and squares of its cities were the making points of crucial historical moments in Europe. If you are after a taster, a long-weekend will whet your appetite but be warned; you might want to head back to this part of the ‘Cultural Heart of Germany’ sooner than you expected.

A weekend in Dresden

The capital city of the region, Dresden was both a delight and a surprise. While Berlin, Munich and Cologne had been on my travel radar, Dresden was one of the unexpected highlights of my trip. The city is compact enough to explore on foot aimlessly, and the grand Baroque architecture, which was restored (and in some case, is still being repaired) following the extensive damage of the war mixes in with renaissance and modernism buildings. At nearly every turn you’ll be in a mix of awe at both the city, but also the fact the streets aren’t thronging with tourists.

It’s at night the city really stole my heart though; the dancing reflections of grand architecture in the Elbe river and the bustling market square serving over-priced beer to the sounds of street performers and glowing gold domes created some kind of magic. Indeed, Dresden might not be a mega-city that never sleeps, but it’s a city you can happily walk for hours at night, long after the last shop shutter has closed in the old-town. The Christmas markets in Dresden are magical, making it a fantastic Europe winter destination too.

Walking through the old town, you are spoilt with architecture. Hofkirche, the Cathedral of the city sits alongside Dresden Castle, one of the oldest buildings in the city and the former Royal Palace.

A moment’s stroll will take you to Semper Opera which, although grand, sits in the shadows of Zwinger, one of the most impressive architectural feats in the city.

Zwinger is a beautiful example of Baroque architecture, and this palace served as the gallery and exhibition space of Dresden Court. The interior courtyard is a mix of gardens and fountains, and art exhibitions can also be found here. It’s also free to wander around the courtyard, and if you don’t want to pay entrance fees in Dresden, it’s perfect as so much of the cities best features are open air.

Following the Fürstenzug, a giant titled mosaic that lines the walls of the stables will take you to the main square where the imposing Frauenkirche, the church of our lady, dominates your eye-line. Inside is impressive as are the views from the top and if you want a birds-eye view of the city the tower climb fee is a good investment.

Of course, the city is so much more than the old town. The central public park, Grosser Garten, is a mix of people taking picnics and relaxing by the lakes. For car-fanatics, the large glass VW factory sits next door.

Out of the old town

Across the river, the trendy hotspot of Dresden-Neustadt is where you’ll find the cities cool kids hanging out under street-art murals and in cafes and bars crammed full of personality. In summer, a relatively empty space comes alive with the Schaubudensommer event, a mix of live shows, outside boozing and art installations. It’s no Berlin, but the vibe is relatively similar in this part of town.

A short journey out of town will take you to some of the oldest, and cutest, houses you can find. Dresden-Loschwitz is a more upmarket part of the city and almost feels like a separate village. The Schwebebahn, a suspension style funicular offers some excellent vantage points of the Elbe and Dresden, and it’s one of the oldest original suspension rails in the world.

Culinary creativity

If you’re a foodie and the idea of dumplings, cabbage and bratwurst (let’s get all the German food stereotypes covered eh?) doesn’t appeal then you are in luck. Dresden is going through somewhat of a culinary evolution and from the tender lamb, and delicate-cooked fish dishes at Alte Meister alongside Zimmer to the buddha-bowl style white cloth rooftop of Felix with birds-eye views the menus here were an eclectic mix. Lila Soße in new-Dresden serves up all its small creative dishes in jars alongside little shops serving up cuisine from around the world.

The Elbe River

The Elbe River plays a massive part in the life of Saxony and Dresden, for some of the best views head to the water-banks for some reflections of the old town and if you are around in the summer, an open-air theatre and nightclub pop up in addition to the many beer gardens along the river route.

The Elbe Cycle route links the mountains of the Czech border through Saxony right along the river.

Local Castles

The Albrechtsberg Castle (and a few others) sit between Dresden and Loschwitz along the river banks and for one night of the year in summer they come alive with fireworks, music and everyone puts on their dapper outfits to sip wine in the courtyards of the castles for Schlössernacht.

If you still need more of a castle fix a short drive out of the city will take you to Moritzburg Castle (sitting pretty in a lake) and Little Pheasants‘ Castle which is bright pink, the same colour as the little lighthouse on the lake watching over it.

If you are planning to try and explore more of Saxony during your long weekend to Dresden then hiring a car will help. While the public transport and trains in the region are pretty decent, you can maximise your time with a couple of days car hire.

Pirna and Bastei

Pirna offers up a much smaller German town vibe with a colourful main square and many little streets of boutiques coming off it. It’s also a fantastic gateway to Saxony Switzerland National Park.

Sitting alongside the Czech border this lush green space is crammed with towering trees, day-hikers and the imposing sandstone mountains that seem to balance precariously from the river bed below.

Perhaps the most famous point to take in the park is at Bastei and the Bastei Bridge. Initially, a wooden bridge to link together these rocks, some up to 194-metres high, which had homes atop of them, it was eventually replaced with a sandstone bridge that has quickly become one of the regions most popular tourist attractions.

Zimmerling Winery

After a hike, you’ve earnt yourself some wine so book in for a tour and tasting at Zimmerling Winery. A fully eco-winery where the vines rise up the hills and the passionate staff will guide you through the local German grapes that they produce.

Polish sculpture, Mrs Chodakowska also has her studio here and her incredibly life-like works can be viewed in the cellars and small galleries.

Good to know:

Getting around: You can get discounted train travel in Germany if you book your ticket and hotel together, this is available as a bonus to foreign tourists visiting the region and can be booked online.

Getting in: Dresden and Leipzig both have their own airports, but I actually flew to Berlin, which is only around two-hours by fast train from Dresden, but given how hellish and embarrassing Berlins airports are for a capital city I’d suggest trying to come into the local, regional airports for a better experience. You can find relatively cheap flights to Germany throughout the year from many budget carriers.

‘Your county never is hot hahaha’ came the mechanical voice of the driver’s translation app. Even in China, with a language barrier, clearly, jokes could undoubtedly still be thrown at us Brits. I punched a response into my phone, Google Translate echoed it back in Mandarin, and we both laughed out loud as the taxi thundered on through the roads of Beijing, unsure if our apps were actually getting the conversation across as intended.

I’d stumbled into Beijing airport a few hours earlier and realising I had missed my transfer was adamant I wasn’t going to pay the highly inflated prices the transfer desk was quoting me. A few drivers ignoring me later and this legend of a guy up front kept the chat, or rather the phone apps did, flowing for the whole hour journey to my hotel.

BEIJING TO HONG KONG TOUR DETAILS

While I was grateful for having an internet connection and the app to hand, my trusty guide Yoyo and her translating (read: saving me from eating weird things) were appreciated throughout my two-week tour in China.

Beijing didn’t seem as confronting on first glance as Shanghai had on my first visit to China. Perhaps, having visited before I was more prepared, or perhaps, even though Beijing is the capital, the pace of the city just felt more relaxed.

Welcome to Beijing

My time in Beijing was short but sweet, especially once I discovered how cheap, smooth and easy the public buses were, the English announcements were also appreciated.

With jet-lag kicking in the only order of the night was a hefty feast of Peking Duck, Peking being the old name of the capital city, served up with unlimited dishes that kept crowding the table. Food was a big theme of my journey through China, and I had never appreciated travelling with a group more than when meal time would come and we would order what felt like the whole menu and sample each other’s dishes to tasty moans and the occasional disgusted groan.

Without a doubt, the most famous attraction in Beijing is the Forbidden City, the old Imperial Palace of Beijing that over its near 700-years as the home to 24 emperors was closed off the public.

Now open as the Imperial Palace Museum, extensive restorations are ongoing to open the 8000+ rooms to the public, one of the reasons it featured on Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel list for .

It would take hours to explore this vast complex that can see up to 80,000 visitors per day, and with limited time in Beijing, we rocketed through it exploring the rooms of ancient ornaments, the intricate details outside and the crowded gardens with temples sticking out of rocks. Yoyo on hand the whole time introducing us to her country and culture.

The Hutongs of Beijing are a criss-cross of small alleys and courtyards that make up the traditional local homes within the city centre. While many of the larger houses with courtyards are worth a small fortune in land, tiny houses with whole families are also typical.

Our rickshaw tour was uneventful and unnecessary, and in hindsight, I would have instead explored by foot, but our home-cooked lunch in a local house was a delicious treat served up with a side of insight.

Behind a curtain in the ‘dining room’ was the families main bed, the other dining room would become the living room after both the local and tourist visitors were fed, and in the small family kitchen, those that called it home dished up tasty treats and scurried to local shops to bring us beer and soda. The hospitality was so warm, yet some of the stories shared chilled us. One weary man explained in depth the current issue facing people who don’t have a Beijing citizen permit, essential controlling rights to those who have migrated from within their own countries.

Nearby, we visited the Bell Tower and Drum Tower, two symbols that you’ll find in most historic Chinese cities that would have rung out to symbol the start and end of the day. As our group split to head for jet-lag recovering naps or to explore more temples, I headed solo in search of a coffee pick me up.

Around the small Bell Tower Square, little boutique coffee spots serve up cups of Joe on tiny terraces and in dimly lit rooms, the terraces providing views of local kids playing Jianzi, similar to shuttlecock.

Warmed and re-energised from what in reality was a pretty poor coffee I set off to see the other side of China’s capital and wandered through modern shopping blocks, towering high-rises and buzzing streets of hip bars. It was a stark contrast to the morning activities but easy to access thanks to the bus system.

As my sleepiness caught up with me, I headed to Sanlitun, home of Beijing’s ‘coolest bar street’ depending on who you ask and expensive fashion stores where photographers with ridiculously long lenses waited to try and capture the next crazy ensemble that would hopefully land them on the cover of a glossy fashion magazine. Exhausted and somewhat confused, I retired to out comfy digs ready for an early rise to visit The Great Wall of China.

The Great Wall of China

Sadly, The Great Wall of China wasn’t looking that great, or indeed looking like anything on the cloudy, hazy morning we took the cable car to it.

The G Adventures tour of China I was on included a visit to the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall, a part I had heard from numerous people wasn’t only stunning but also slightly quieter than other entrance points.

With the weather not on side, I can’t really report on either, but I can confirm it’s an incredible feeling to walk along the wall, even with no visibility. To set foot on something that has thousands of years of history attached to it, although much of what you see today was built in the Ming Dynasty from the 14th-century, and many modern bricks slotted in for repairs, no trip to Beijing would be complete without a visit here. The downside of being on a tour? We had to continue to our next stop, dashing any dreams of returning the following morning when a quick glance at Instagram Stories told me it was back to its postcard-perfect self.

On to Xi’an

Our next stop was Xi’an, and as we glided into the train station in the dark hours of the night courtesy of a bullet-train, food was the only thing on our minds. Given the late hour and limited options, we settled on the Chinese equivalent of KFC and weren’t impressed by what we had seen on our late-night stroll. Driving through the imposing city walls lit up was a grand entrance, but tacky lights and even a miniature Eiffel tower had us confused before snoozing off in what felt like a run-down, yellow-tinged motel, a different experience from all the other fantastic accommodation our tour boasted.

Wanting to maximise the short time in Xi’an I woke up at 6 am and headed out to see the sights attractions. By the golden glow of the sun-rising, and for the rest of the day, my opinion on Xi’an changed drastically.

The history of this city is fascinating as it was the end point of the eastern Old Silk Road, and as such, there is a sizeable Muslim population in the city that has called it home for centuries.

The Great Mosque of Xi’an could almost be missed if you didn’t know to look for it, but behind more walls lay this beautiful mosque, mainly crafted of wood and consisting of some twenty buildings. A peaceful morning walk here with just the gardener for company allowed me to marvel at one of the oldest and largest Mosques in China, a type of Mosque I had never seen before and a far cry from the likes of the Abu Dhabi Mosque.

When I exited the mosque the streets around the Muslim Quarter were coming to life, and tasty treats were being brought in batch from the many stalls lining the alleyways. Chowing down on some delicious bread I ventured onto the cities other significant attractions.

The Bell and Drum Towers, as mentioned above in Beijing, are pretty famous in Xi’an and two of the symbols of the city. The Drum Tower sits alongside the Muslim Quarter while the Bell Tower dominates a central roundabout, accessible by underpass.

A short walk from here down charming streets of quaint yet trendy bars will take you back to the ancient city walls which you can cycle all the way around and, had I of been time-rich, would be a neat way to get a higher elevated view of the city.

One of the quirks I loved about Xi’an in the early hours, and Yoyo would later tell me happens in many cities, is the shop staff come out before opening, pop on some tunes and one of the team leads a full-on dance. Apparently, it starts the day with positive energy and I got a real kick out of watching these staff smiling and laughing with their colleagues before I’d even sunk my first coffee.

The laughter and smiles throughout China were infectious and unexpected and looking back on the trip a month on; it’s the smiling, friendly faces who would try and offer directions even though there was limited understanding that stays with me.

The Terracotta Warriors

The famed Terracotta Army is around an hours drive from Xi’an, and we dipped into a local house for another hearty lunch before tackling one of the most fascinating and bewildering UNESCO attractions I have ever visited.

These vast works are still under excavation and contain an eerily large collection of ‘soldiers’ that were only discovered in 1974.

Built to protect the tomb of China’s First Emperor, Qin Shi Huang, they stand around his tomb, and all of the workers who constructed them were then locked inside to keep the secrets. Myths and guesses surround the discovery, but one thing for sure is that the sheer scale of what has so far been discovered is incredible. This is something that has always been high on my Mum’s bucket-list, and as I face-timed her from within the vast hall, I swear I caught tears on her face, such is the sheer awe of what you will see here.

After a few hours walking around the excavation sights and watching those still at uncovering, diligently doing their work, we returned to Xi’an all set for our first 14-hour night train to Suzhou.

A 14-hour night train in China, it can’t be that bad right?Check out what I thought of Suzhou and Shanghai on the next part of my China tour to find out.

If I were to summarise China, it would be a cocktail of contrasts and contradictions, most certainly served shaken not stirred. Nowhere was this more apparent to me than in Shanghai and Suzhou, two megacities that are quickly linked by high-speed rail and offering up a mix of traditions, towers and tourist crowd pleasers.

For me though, Suzhou was the cherry on top.

Shanghai might be the poster child of modern-day China, with the electrifying view from The Bund at night showcasing the countries 21st-century spirit, but you never have to stray far from a sky-high tower to find an intimate moment with the countries traditions.

Welcome to Shanghai

It was my third visit to this bustling city, and I’ll never forget how intimidating it felt the first time I ventured to The Bund solo. Crowds gathered to take selfies with the iconic backdrop, sellers tried to hawk catalogues of shoddy goods and massages with benefits, and I stumbled my way through the visit in appalling unorganised fashion. This time, I was more prepared and had I not been, I think I would have been in better company with our G Adventures tour group than attempting my first China visit solo.

That said, the view of Shanghai from The Bund doesn’t get me as excited as it does for many. While the towers can often be obscured by fog and pollution by day, the bright lights have always broken through on my evening visits and, dazzling enough; it misses a particular wow factor that you can find in Hong Kong or Singapore. But if you venture up the Shanghai Tower, now the highest viewing platform in the world and one of the reasons it made Lonely Planet’s Best In Travel list , you’ll find yourself transported to a mystical view of clouds above the fantastic towers below you.

The Bund, with its historic buildings and imposing wide shopping streets, for me is better enjoyed at street level, casually strolling around and soaking up one of the busiest spots in this city.

Although Shanghai isn’t a city you could explore by foot in its entirety, cycling, the metro and affordable taxis make getting around painless, especially with all English announcements and machines available.

But do go and get lost in Shanghai, no matter how overwhelming it may feel. When you find a traditional hawker serving up street food at a criminally low price outside office blocks, or a monk looking out of a temple next to billboard advert for Apple, you’ll be served up that unique cocktail of contrasts I mentioned before.

Nowhere did I feel this more than at Jing’an temple, where a group of Monks prayed to my right and neon advertising flashed to the left from the highrises all around. You can see how China is evolving, growing and embracing a change while still, for now, keeping its traditions alive, even in these cities that are continually growing. A stroll into Yu Gardens, home of more temples amongst old-style gardens comes with a side of Starbucks, continuing the battle of west-meets-east and old-meets-new as China powers towards becoming the world’s superpower.

A coffee in the leafy French Concession, where Tianzigang is packed out with boutique shops amongst colonial architecture that again feels like a different world. Shortly afterwards I’d find myself asking a residential apartment block guard how to access the Museum of Propaganda, a collection of posters from the years that resides in the basement of a blink and you’ll miss it tower block. Sometimes China left me confused, but the answers would usually present themselves eventually.

To be honest, Shanghai isn’t a city I love, but it is a city that fascinates me, and it’s the perfect introduction to China’s fast and ongoing story of growth.

Don’t miss Shanghai:

French Concession / Tianzifang – Grab a coffee, hit up the shops, relax under the trees

The Bund – Take in the grand architecture and open spaces before hitting up the shopping streets

Go up a Tower – Whether you opt for the uniquely shaped Pearl, home of Burlesque in the city or power up Shanghai Tower, the worlds highest viewing platform, booking in advance is advisable

Acrobat Show – A bit kitsch, and an inclusion in my tour package, I wouldn’t say it is a ‘must do’, but the acrobat arts that have been refined in Shanghai are pretty impressive

Jing’an Temple – One of my favourite temples in the city, walk around all the rooms and hopefully you’ll find Monks amongst the Buddha statues

Yu Garden – Visit early and try to avoid the crowds, peaceful and serene at mid-day it was not

Museum of Propaganda – Weird and wonderful and perfect for a rainy day, it’s a little tricky to find so don’t be scared to ask

Settle into Suzhou

Stepping off a night-train that had been home for the previous 14-hours was a relief. You don’t realise the scale of China until you are chugging along on the over-nighter chugging a beer to help you sleep.

Suzhou was the destination I was least excited about on our two-week tour of China, but it ended up being one of my favourite stops. After a quick refresh in our hotel and admiring its gardens, this is a city famed for it’s UNESCO listed gardens after all, we all over-ordered and indulged in our first proper meal in nearly a day.

Fed, watered and feeling surprisingly excited to explore the city we headed to the Master of the Nets Garden, one of the smaller gardens in the city but, thanks to its ornate details and design that maximises space, one of the most famous. We wandered amongst little bridges over the water, snapped too many photos and felt a sense of Zen that hadn’t been present on the previous few days travelling through Beijing and Xian.

Although still a large city by most peoples standards, inside the older parts of Suzhou you can quickly feel like you are in a small village. Little canals link streets together, rickshaws slowly ride down bike lanes, and single-file traffic is a respite from the never-ending roads on the outer limits.

I was smitten in Suzho pretty quickly and knew I wanted nothing more than to get blissfully lost.

As the rest of my G Adventures tour group jumped on various Rickshaw tours, my feet took mine on a journey past street stalls where I ate snacks with names I couldn’t pronounce, little temples devoid of any tourists and people-watching with a coffee in hand alongside one of the small canals.

‘The Venice of the East’ is a nickname many have bestowed on Suzhou, but really, it holds it’s own and needs no comparison.

Strolling down Shantang Street, one of the main tourist hubs in the city bars spilt out on to the narrow streets by the canal. Lines grew for the large boats that ply the waterways, a far cry from the small gondolas on the littler streams, and entertainers dazzled crowds who take breaks from the numerous souvenier stores.

It wasn’t long until I was lost again, venturing beyond the wide street and into narrower territory, the scenery quickly changed to family businesses, one-human food stalls and lazy after work cups of green tea being sipped on the canal edge.

At this end of Shantang Street, the public toilets didn’t have doors, a line of locals squatted as neighbours playing on phones while others waited their turn. Childen launched stones and wood into the river and watched it float under the bridges. Laughter and screams of families replaced the bustle of tourist-tour chatter, and I was in my element.

These were the moments I would always remember from China; the moments when the language barrier didn’t matter when smiles and nods were plausible conversations. You have to find the heart of a country when you travel to it, and in China, a country so vast it often felt there was no one singular vein to follow. Each city has a different pulse, and that made this journey so magical: I never knew what to expect or what I would find in China, but Suzhou was the first moment I knew it would be a country I would come back to.

Don’t miss Suzhou:

Shantang Street – Buzzing tourist hub where bars, boat rides and souvenir shops reside

Master of the Nets Garden – This small, but perfectly formed garden is ideal for those poor on time

More Gardens – It is famous for them after all, Humble Administrators is one of the largest and grandest

Grand Buddha Ling Shan – Head slightly out of the city to the lake to witness this towering statue

Tiger Hill Pagoda – If you have the time, and don’t get distracted like me, head up to this scenic park and viewing area to look down on the city and visit the pagoda

Whether you visit China as part of a tour, as I did with G Adventures who have a range of options in China, or independently, I really don’t think you should overlook the chance to visit Suzhou given its proximity and ease from Shanghai.

Even if you just take advantage of the visa-free stopovers in Shanghai should they be available to your passport. I’ve flown through Shanghai with China Eastern Airways a few times, and they are not bad at all and use Shanghai as their base. For a ‘dip-your-toes-in’ China experience, those two cities are clear winners for me.

Okay, first things first, I LOVED Tallinn. This city is such a dreamy walk through history before being slapped in the face by urban cool and regeneration. Having heard so much about e-residency and an electronic currency focus, I knew this was going to be a capital city continually evolving, and I was so glad our Princess Cruise stopped here, only a short stroll away from the old-town no less.

Estonia might not get that much attention on an international level for its tourism but having visited Tallinn and met some super friendly locals while doing so, I can’t wait to get back and explore the country more. That was undoubtedly a highlight of cruising for me, you get an introduction and can pick out the places that you want to head back to.

Time in port: 8 am – 5 pm
(time in port can vary depending on departure date, you can check exact timings on the Princess website)

Transport/distance: A 20-minute walk or short bus to the city

Excursions available: Tallinn is super easy to explore by foot but with a fascinating history, you might want to opt for a private guide. Winetasting, beer making and lighthouse cycle tours are just some of the more unique excursion offerings by Princess.

Old Town Tallinn

Walking through the Old Town of Tallin feels like stepping back into a medieval world, and not just because of the traditional outfits and shop signs you’ll find around. While most of Europe has gone through many changes over the years, the UNESCO inscribed old town of Tallinn has been kept preserved through the centuries meaning that this grand old city built in the 13th-century still retains that charm.

Start at the upper part of the Old Town where various viewpoints showcase the red-tiled roofs of the towers and multiple churches across the city. Aleksandr Nevsky cathedral dominates the upper portion and with its domed ceilings and perfect white colour stands out amongst the numerous hues that adorn the other bars, restaurants and gift shops beside it.

Just across the road, the Toompea Castle which is the home of the countries parliament is another grand building which you can admire from outside or explore.

For the best views of the city climb up one of the towers or visit the KGB museum, actually inside a hotel, to learn more about the operations that took place here alongside the Baltic Sea.

As you walk down to the Old Town Square, you’ll pass various painters and artists selling and creating their works inspired by the colourful buildings around them. It’s especially magical in December, when the huge Christmas Market makes Tallinn one of the best European places to visit in winter.

Once on the square, grab a coffee and pay the tourist prices so you can sit and watch the world go by and admire the different styles of buildings on each side, the rooftops in particular fascinated me as they were all pretty unique.

I walked past a lot of museums while in Tallinn, but I felt like the old town was such a museum on its own that I didn’t need to venture into them. I think your time would be better spent climbing one of the towers, ducking into a church or heading up the old city walls which still fortify the old town but you can only walk around a small-ish section of these.

The other side of Tallinn

While I think most people tend to spend their one day in Tallinn entirely in the old town, you are really missing out by not seeing both sides of the city.

Just across from the train station, Turg Market offers up fresh-food stalls, quirky restaurants and cafes in shipping containers and a completely different vibe from the history crammed into the old town.

In particular, the area around the back of the train station where warehouses have turned into bars-come-clothes-shops and thrift stalls line up by abandoned trains you can chow down on some great grub, play a game of ping-pong and feel pretty damn hipster settling your beer on an upside down gas drum.

Walk a little further, and you’ll arrive at Telliskivi creative city, a set of old factories in an industrial area that has been completely reimagined into pop-up shops of independent fashion designers, bespoke home furnishings and hip bars and restaurants serving up their own brews and killer coffees. Take some time out to chat with the shop owners and get to know the city through their eyes before picking up some one-of-a-kind souvenirs and supporting local business.

Although my time in Tallin was short, I feel like I got a lot out of it. I love cities where you can have two completely contrasting experiences in such a short space of time and the capital of Estonia certainly ticks those boxes. While I’m sure the nightlife would be epic here and it would have been nice to stick around to check it out, I returned to the ship feeling pretty content with my one day in Tallinn and starting to map out my route around Estonia when I return.

As we slowly lifted the little wooden roof of their hive home, the familiar buzz of the worker bee started sounding. On the rooftop of the Print Works, an old printing factory now turned entertainment hub, a burly guy with a tender touch for the little-striped creatures was sharing his Manchester with us. I’d soon realise it wasn’t just our honey-making friends that were buzzing, though; the whole city has an evolving electric vibe that’s spot on for a little mini-break.

Often overshadowed as a weekend getaway by the likes of London, it’s actually an excellent alternative, although it remains a relatively underrated city in Europe. You’ll never see all of London in a few days, but relatively compact Manchester, with its well-connected airport, trams and free city-centre buses, is a viable standalone or gateway-getaway to England.

An abundance of free museums, theatre options, capital-rivalling cafes, an ever-evolving art scene and music running through the city like the canals that serve it all adds up to a criss-cross of culture, culinary quirks and northern hospitality. Booze, Football, Shopping, Oasis; these are the old words I would have used to describe Manchester. However, it’s safe to say that has changed after a weekend in this buzzing metropolis.

For the foodie

As the third biggest city in the UK, Manchester surprisingly doesn’t have any Michelin stars, but that’s not to say the city is all pies and gravy (which they do damn well). For those who travel for food, you’ve got a mix of Instagrammable, mouth-watering restaurants and cafes to treat yourself with here.

Tucking into a surprisingly great value, the blind five-course tasting menu at Wood, a bright, airy space with soothing blue booths opened by Masterchefs winner Simon Wood, I’d say it’s not long until this growing gourmet destination graces the pages of the high-brow foodie bible. From sweet and sour soups and tender slow-cooked meat joints to the light and creamy white chocolate dessert, the meal was spot on for each of the five courses.

Across the city, a Grade 2 listed building and a former meat market have been converted into a high-ceiling, trendy, bustling food hall. Mackie Mayor, where you can cram your table with anything from Tacos to Tapas available at the various stalls is another gem in the city and serves up a mean mix of booze and food for all palates from early morning until late evening.

Retro coffee shops (such as Grindsmiths on Deansgate) and creative, music-loving independent restaurants (check out The Deaf Institute) happily seem to be in abundance, debunking the chain culture taking over the rest of the country.

For the architecture lovers

The humble worker-bee is the symbol of Manchester. A city of trade, ships and hard labour, the honey-coloured stone buildings of Manchester were once lost to the black soot that caked them from the factories. As pressure washers restore every corner of this city to its former grandeur, there is some seriously impressive architecture to admire, and the town hall should be your first port of call after stepping off one of the gliding yellow trams just outside.

The John Rylands Library has been on my hit list for years, and the vaulted ceilings above stone glass windows didn’t disappoint. The equally ornate Town Hall is worthy of any Instagram feed, while across in Salford Quays, which is actually a different city, the modern, glowing glass structure of BBC’s new home, Media City, reflects like a spaceship against the canal.

For the history buffs

Tim Peake’s space shuttle that had brought him back to earth took pride of place in the entrance to the Museum of Science and Industry, one of the city’s many free, and well-curated, attractions. With plenty of interactive displays, I’m pretty confident this would be an ideal spot on a rainy day, especially if you have kids to keep entertained.

‘Deeds not words’ is the quote that greets you at The Pankhurst Centre, a working community centre and the birthplace of the Suffragette movement. Beyond the incredible work this women’s centre provides in the modern day, the small museum is dedicated to the Votes for Women movement led by Emmeline Pankhurst, of which the centre is named for.

On a year celebrating such an important anniversary of achieving another step towards equality, yet globally seeming tainted as we hear such awful stories of lack of acceptance, it was a sobering walk down history to learn more about the Suffragette campaign that I ashamedly didn’t know much about. Entrance is free, like many of Manchester’s museums, but donations to continue to support the centre are always welcome.

Just along the street sits another home that nods towards Manchester history, Elizabeth Gaskell. This home-turned-museum is dedicated to the great 19th-century author whose works include North and South and the well-known Cranford. The restored period property allows a look into the more lavish side of Manchester for those who weren’t grafting hard in the factories and docks and often hosts additional book-focused events alongside its normal visiting hours.

For the cultured early evening

When the sun sets, the city really kicks into gear. You could grab the squad for a game of bowling at DogBowl, a bar-come-bowling alley.

For some evening entertainment, slip into one of the many theatres to watch a musical or an immersive play at the Royal Exchange, a circular theatre hosting classics and contemporaries. Manchester has a pumping year-round event calendar well worth checking out for something a little different. On my last visit, I was sipping Gin at renovated Victoria Baths, and these events often allow you access to lesser-seen venues in the city.

For the mad one

One of Manchester’s strengths lies in its diversity, from cat cafes to Canal Street, the famous LGBTQ+ quarter, and every flavour of restaurants from around the world. The city opens its arms to one and all. It reminded me of what I loved and gave me pride in Britain, something I needed as the Brexit debacle rambles on.

Whatever kind of music or nightlife you are into, Manchester is gonna deliver. With live music venues, pub entertainment, and world-class clubs, this city won’t disappoint you right through to the early hours. As one of the most gay-friendly cities in Europe, it really has venues, clubs and bars for all.

For the local look

‘Everyone in the city was in shock or knew someone… it was an awful time. But, it’s not what Manchester should be defined by’ called back John, my black cab driver who was giving me a guided tour of his home city and recalling the heinous bombing that had shocked the city just over a year ago.

Touring the city by black cab, was two hours well spent. Roman walls to out-of-town Oasis fan spots were great stops, but the chat and insight from the front seat are what makes it. The best way to dig a little deeper into a destination as an outsider is through the eyes of a local. The chance for a live Q&A with a man who had likely seen it all while doing his rounds provided a much better insight into the ‘real Manchester’ than any visiting blogger (hey there!) is going to give online.

Manchester is truly a city of stories: from steelwork to the suffragettes, it has been shaped by the spirit of its people, and the northern hospitality keeps that spirit alive. From the life-story sharing with the barber-come-DJ who gave me a trim in the urban-cool northern quarter to the addictive laugh of the beaming bar-tender serving up Bavarian beers and serious banter at the surprisingly lovable Albert Schloss German Bar, the city’s best asset for sure, is its people.

For the pampered stay

One of the most iconic hotels in Manchester is The Midland, with its imposing exterior this grand building dates back to 1903 and has hosted its fair share of names over the years. A plaque dedicated to being where Rolls met Royce of the car fame greets you as you step off the street into the high-ceiling lobby with polished floors.

To the left, a cosy bar area with a towering centre-piece is the perfect place to knock back a few pre-dinner cocktails and the tranquil spa, with light hues of blues and whites, looked the perfect place to spend a day when the grey skies and rains descend.

The rooms were spacious and well-maintained, and sticking with Manchester’s love for personality, booking into such an iconic venue is the way to go when visiting the city.

On my last evening in Manchester, I stumbled into my umpteenth hidden gem of a pub down a little side street (the rumours about Manchestenians liking a few bevvies? All true) to sink another pint with my Dad.

Nursing a hangover and flying through the green hills of the English countryside to London the next morning, it’s a quick and easy two-hour train journey to the capital that somehow I had never taken before in all my time as a Londoner.

Manchester might not have the iconic skyline of the capital, the culinary charm of Paris or the sunshine of Barcelona, but what it does have is a soul, and for an epic city-break weekend, that is exactly what you need.

For years, outsiders have been getting it so wrong about Manchester. The question isn’t United or City: the real question is when are you making a bee-line (naf pun intended) to this buzzing city?

I watched as he set off to climb to the top of Uluru. He wasn’t oblivious to the objections of the Mutitjulu community, the traditional landowners; he just simply didn’t care.

In a country with such a fascinating, complex and sometimes difficult history, I’ve always wanted to learn more about Aboriginal culture and the Indigenous people of mainland Australia and the Torres Strait Islanders.

Learning from a book is one thing, but spending time with a local and understanding their perspective is far more valuable.

Homestays in Cambodia or staying in the hills of Peru may seem the more likely places for ‘cultural immersion’, but here in Port Douglas, I had the opportunity to do just that. Two years on, from watching a man climbing over to what many of us is just a big desert rock, I was able to learn first-hand about the native people of one of my favourite regions of Australia, Port Douglas, home of the Kuku Yalanji.

Welcome to Port Douglas
As I ambled around the small streets of Port Douglas, slowly settling into the slower pace of life in this tropical paradise, I noticed that it wasn’t the fiery sky catching the last of the sunlight that caught my eye.

The art galleries, dotted between high-end restaurants and quaint cafes, offer up the first (and for many that visit this region, the last) insight into the Aboriginal culture. If you have images in your mind of simply decorated Boomerangs then throw that aside, some of these pieces fill whole walls and retail for thousands of dollars. The details and passion that go into one of these pieces of wall art are outstanding, even more so once you have learnt the story behind them

Later, when I would meet Binna and learn about his Port Douglas, I’d think back to these modern and contemporary canvases. “We are proud of our past”, he would say, “But this artwork is about now; it’s about me, my stories”.

As I chatted with one gallery owner who shared some of the stories behind each piece adorning the walls, I realised that although the style may be different, one thing had stayed the same. This vast, beautiful land that we now know as Australia has been inspiring art and stories for so long that it almost seems inconceivable. From the Dreamtime to the present, each one unique and intriguing in its own way.

If you know little about the cruel history and treatment that occurred on these shores over the past century, I urge you to do further reading to understand what has been done and to understand why climbing ‘just a big desert rock’ really shouldn’t be on your to-do list.

But that’s not what this story is about. My journey through Port Douglas is about the now, the future, the people I’ve met here and the stories they have shared. The atrocities of the past can’t be covered or discussed in a simple blog post.

Aboriginal culture and art

Janbal Gallery is in Mossman, a small town just outside of Port Douglas proper. It was here that I met Binna, and moments later, he gave me a third-degree burn on my hand that, only weeks later, is starting to fade.

The Blue Quandon, a bright blueberry found in the region, translates to Janbal, but more importantly, it was Binna’s mother’s Aboriginal name. As I stepped into the compact yet airy space, I saw again the impressive patterns I had seen in the galleries the night before, yet, as with each of those artists, they were presented in their own unique way.

I met many people during my time living in Australia who would scoff at the Aboriginal beliefs or use of the natural resources, which usually gave me a mixture of sadness and anger. To survive in a land so harsh and with so many dangers should be celebrated for its resourcefulness and remembered for its culture; it’s not a joke to be laughed out of history.

Binna showed me how to create paint with nothing more than water and stones from the Daintree forest. How a seed, when rubbed on the floor, could be hot enough to seal a wound (or burn the shit out of my hand). How a simple stick could create a painting so elaborate and detailed that I would struggle to replicate it in Photoshop, I found myself in awe of how the Kuku Yalanji people had harnessed the nature around them in such an imaginative and impressive way.

The pride in his voice that his gallery was 100 per cent Aboriginal-owned and operated didn’t go unnoticed. That afternoon he shared not just his stories with me but his culture. The small back room, usually crowded with tourists taking an art class to hear these stories, sat empty, and in a selfish wave, I felt glad to have his stories all to myself.

In each painting, part of the land could be seen, whether it was a Cassowaries footprints (a rare native bird), the water of the rainforest or indeed, the Blue Quandon berry whose name sat so proudly on the sign outside. In each painting, you could have a glimpse of Port Douglas, but most importantly, a glimpse of Binna’s Port Douglas.

Dreamtime walks in Mossman Gorge

Parking up at Mossman Gorge later in the day, I felt glad knowing I would have the opportunity to meet Binna again the next morning. His invitation to join him on one of his artwork inspiration trips had come as a true honour.

The Daintree Rainforest is one of, if not the oldest, in the world. ‘Where the reef meets the rainforest’ is how you’ll often hear Port Douglas touted thanks to two of Australia’s most impressive natural wonders running alongside each other.

I hadn’t come to see the waterfalls, though; I’d come to learn more about the importance of this now-famous tourist attraction for the natives of the lands.

The Dreamtime walks in Mossman Gorge may be targeted towards tourists, but it allows an easy-to-digest chance to understand the local region. The beautiful, lush and ancient backdrop of the rainforest may be a dramatic setting, but hearing the Ngadiku, the stories and legends from a time gone by was far more interesting to me.

From the traditional smoking ceremony which cleanses your smell before entering the rainforest through to learning how the original huts and humpies are constructed, the easy going walk provided ample of opportunities to ask questions.

The special relationship shared with this land was obvious from the guides. Tea, paints, medicine and soap can all be made from the natural resources seen on our short walk. I looked at the now stinging burn on my hand and smiled. It’s these moments I travel for, the moments when I am learning something new and, most importantly, meeting someone new whose culture I could never experience at home. The magic doesn’t just end in Port Douglas, though; the whole of tropical north Queensland is special.

Cooya Beach and Spearfishing

The next morning I set off to Cooya Beach to meet Binna again. The grand sand stretch with its mangroves and the receding tide was a popular place to forage for food and find his inspiration I had learnt the day before.

As we walked along the beach, we talked about family and life and touched on the past of the Kuku Yalanji people in the region. Binnas’ positivity shone through, and his focus on the future and sharing his culture underlined everything he said.

He talked about how he had come to this beach as a kid, about passing on the knowledge of foraging and hunting the traditional ways. He talked about his mother’s painting and his studies to develop his art skills.

Bending down he ushers me to look at an ant with a big yellow butt, ‘It tastes like Lemon’ he said as he passed one to me.

I was in his house, and I wasn’t going to be rude. It did taste somewhat zesty; traditionally, it would have been used as a medicine.

The day continued to teach me more and more about the land that I had arrived at just two years before, and then only saw a photo opportunity. Spearfishing for sand crabs is a lot harder than it looks; creeping through mangroves while being paranoid about Crocs isn’t so fun and fresh Oysters along the water edges taste damn good.

When it came time for me to sit down and put a stick (in place of a paintbrush) to canvas, I felt inspired. As I used the plants and crab claws I had found as the base of the artwork, I realised how much I had taken from my surroundings.

Being a photographer, I can spend hours looking for the perfect angle to capture something. That day, Binna had taught me to spend hours soaking up somewhere before translating it into a piece of art.

As we sat on the beach, the sun fading and the lapping waves fading, I felt like I was just chatting with an old mate. I forgot about my friend filming and to take notes about what we were talking about. I was intrigued and fascinated, and the blogger in me had been replaced by the traveller, the learner, and Binna’s stories deserved my unrivalled attention.

When the time came to leave I felt a pang of sadness. This man had opened his home to me and not just in the physical confines of the modern world. Mossman was his home, Cooya Beach was his home, Port Douglas was his home. I was so grateful to him for sharing it with me. I choked up as I said thank you, knowing he wouldn’t know how much his time had meant to me.

Of course, once you’ve taken the time to discover more about this land, a trip to the Great Barrier Reef is almost mandatory in this region as are many of the other best things to do in Queensland.

But whatever you do in Australia, no matter how long or short your trip is you should do this. Take time out to understand the culture in one the world’s most vast countries.Swing by Janbal Gallery and see Binna and please, send him a big hello from me.

The stories in this land are forever changing, and the past should be cherished. But come here with open eyes, ask, talk and learn. I promise that your Australian experience will be vastly improved by investing a few hours conversing with the original owners of the land. Much more so than by simply climbing over it.

I’ll take a real story over a rock-climbing selfie any day. I hope you do too.

‘The crowd is a story, the event is a story, but you really only need one person for a story. Just think, how many stories do we walk past each day?’

We slowly shuffle across a wooden pontoon bridge, securely balanced on plastic drums floating in the river. A countless throng of people walk in relaxed unison ahead, while behind us, the gates are closed to manage the crowds. We’re fully aware we have taken a wrong turn. Yet, with no sense of direction left, we silently admit defeat to ourselves, if not openly to each other.

Buried deep amongst an ever-growing collection of some thirty million pilgrims, the colours and calls around me were enchanting. Stylish saris swayed in the air, drying from a dip in the sacred waters, while the sun’s glare was as bright as the orange robes adorning many of the devotees. Brothers and sisters were chanting alongside their mothers and fathers, and all the hues and happenings had started to blur into one. The Praygraj Kumbh Mela was in full swing, and with nearly a month of the event left, it was unapologetically unrelenting.

We reach the other side of the rivers, plural, as it is here that two bodies of water join. The distinct colours of The Ganga and Yamuna unite at this point, also meeting the mythical Saraswati river, unseen by the eye but known by those of faith. This point is the Sangam, and we had inadvertently arrived at the right place had it only been a day later.

Across the bridge, all bodily senses resume at full. My ears were being pulled in multiple directions, while my eyes wanted to follow a different path. My feet, however, were arguing, already weak in the hazy mid-day sun.

I thought I had felt sensory overload before, but the world’s largest faith-based gathering was now garnering pole position for that award. For the first time in a long time, I was at a loss. Not just physically lost but unsure of how to experience an event so different from anything I had ventured into before.

There are countless impressive facts about the Kumbh Mela that I’ve written about, but here I want to share the story of my momentary madness attending the festival. This isn’t an event that you attend to tick off activities; it’s an event you come to experience to find your own story and spirituality, and hopefully, you’ll accomplish that better than I did.

Because, to be honest, writing this now, I’m still not really sure what I experienced. Partly due to bad planning, and sheer scale, but also because this isn’t a festival set up for visitors, it’s a religious right of passage for Hindus. It was fascinating to attend, and it was beautiful to be a part of, but there were many times I was lost in the moment and not caught up romantically way, but in language barriers and confusion. Don’t expect a detailed map and guide to this event in English; it’s up to you to navigate and write your own.

The Kumbh Mela indeed is something special, but as a non-practising foreigner, you have to approach it with an open mind, and you’ll likely come away with as many questions as when you arrived.

When it comes to spirituality and finding those connections, India is certainly the place to be. Yoga and Ashrams are commonplace throughout the country, and learning from an Indian yoga master is, I’d imagine, a far more spiritual experience than a Western teacher in a London classroom!

At events like this, you start to appreciate that Yoga is so much more than poses; it’s a sense of mind, and had we not been in such a rush on this trip, I’d have been inclined to spend some time time to travel to a Kavaalya international yoga training centre in India, a recommendation of a friend. While I certainly don’t think I could commit to a few weeks, this ashram offers a great balance between relaxation and intense yoga training. It really offers the best of India while staying with an international group.

But alas, the opportunity wasn’t meant to be, so we carried on hunting for our spiritual connection amongst millions of others at the Kumbh Mela.

Allahabad, the ordinarily small and unassuming city of this grand event, was once the capital of Uttar Pradesh. The capital title was lost to Lucknow, and last year, in late 2018, it also lost its name. While the Kumbh Mela has been taking place at this sacred meeting point of the three rivers for longer than is known, this is the first year it has done so under its new city title: Prayagaj Kumbh Mela.

Names of places are used intermittently here. Kashi and Benares are often still said when talking about the nearby holy city, which is Varanasi, while Allahabad is still commonly referenced when discussing Prayagraj. Nothing is forever, not even a name it seems, and the Kumbh Mela is the perfect reminder of this, especially for those who come to take the holy dip, where a bathe at this point is said to wash away all sins. I was advised by a local to use my time here to stop, to connect and to appreciate, though I perhaps only succeeded at the latter of the three.

Inspiration, Information and transformation are how I had heard the Kumbh Mela described, and as we wandered through the makeshift tents and camps varying from glamorous Yoga retreats with lavish en-suite rooms to simple blankets where Naga Sadhus rested, I felt an intense amount of inspiration to travel again.

I’ve played my travels quite safe in the last few months, making the most of hopping around Europe with my pre-Brexit UK passport and work rights. But here, in amongst such a unique setting, I was inspired to travel as I used to, chasing experiences rather than photo opportunities, yet no matter how hard I tried, I don’t think I ever broke through the imaginary barrier I was experiencing at the Kumbh Mela.

Our journey continued, to the left we passed Naga Sadhus, some of the holiest of Hindus giving blessings, and to the right stalls were serving up chai and pakora. The ash-covered bodies of the Sadhus, who have given up their material possession, drew me in, partly due to their spiritual appearance and revered status and partly due to the rituals being carried out with a bell hung from a penis. I thought photos had prepared me for this day, but as I crouched down to be blessed, I realised just how much I still had to learn about Hinduism.

That afternoon I witnessed hundreds of people lining up at feeding tables, where subsidised or free meals were dished out to pilgrims, a backbone of the events inclusiveness. In the background, yet deserving of celebration, countless people ensured the make-shift event space remained spotless. Whether they were fishing out offerings from the river or dusting up debris on the grounds, it’s no small feat to pull off such a large-scale event and retain control and cleanliness.

Personal moments of respite and intimacy came when sitting down on small benches, where conversation and Chai aplenty were delivered by smiling owners working over small stoves or when dipping into the small communities set up around tents. Friendly locals would ask for selfies, and I gained fragments of insights into the festival and people who made it, shakily still unsure of how to behave as a visitor.

My journey was just a mere glimpse, though, a tiny speck of the event, and after walking 16 kilometres, I still hadn’t even witnessed half of what was occurring along these river banks.

‘Where are we?’ I question a policeman who motions to a dot on the map, far removed from where I was expecting. Bridge nineteen, our leader, had repeated many times that morning, but the adventurer in me had ignored him, and now the soles of our feet would pay the price as we gulped, glancing back at bridge two behind us.

I’d say I’m an experienced traveller, but amongst so many people, where there are more temporary toilets (125,00 are constructed for the event) than residents in my new home town, I learnt that sometimes staying on the more beaten path is the best thing to do. The ongoing call of announcements across loudspeakers from the Kumbh lost and found centre, trying to reunite families and friends, reinforced this fact.

Attending the Kumbh Mela had been on my bucket list since 2013, when I accidentally found myself amongst the Haridwar Kumbh for a few hours. My memories of that were far more overwhelming, perhaps because I was travelling alone.

This time, the simplicity of people connecting and bathing made me focus on the serene rather than the scale, yet this conflicted with the complicated journeys many had taken to be here.

It is hard for me to summarise how I felt as a faith outsider attending the festival. I didn’t feel like a voyeur stealing naughty peeks into someone else’s world, mainly due to how friendly and welcoming everyone was, but I’ll admit my feelings of being out of place. My short time at the Kumbh wasn’t long enough to experience it in full, nor to embed myself at the moment, yet at the same time, when I left, I felt ready to go.

I’d learn a week later that during my attendance, it was reported as the largest human gathering ever, with close to fifty million people flocking to Praygraj on the most auspicious day for bathing. These numbers don’t compute to me. The sheer scale and fact I’ve been to the largest meeting of people ever outstands me, but there, in the moment, as the three of us stared blankly at a bridge and a policeman framed against a giant Pepsi sign, it ironically didn’t seem as intense as I had envisioned.

Sometimes, you have to shrug things off, accept what will be, and go with the flow. In the same way that these revered rivers continued to flow despite the volume of visitors lining their banks, we, too, had to accept whatever the day would be.

We ventured on, met with smiling yet inquisitive faces, arms stretched out for more selfies, finally stopping to cool down with freshly squeezed sugar cane juices from a vintage grinder. To truly appreciate the moment, you have to break the Kumbh Mela down to your immediate vicinity and forget about the rest. In isolation, pockets of the event were subdued and straightforward, yet in its entirety, it can seem intense and unfathomable.

For all the noise about numbers, the Kumbh Mela really wasn’t as overwhelming as I had envisioned. Would I want to attend such an event solo? Likely not. Did I feel as out of my depth as I thought I would? No. Was I blown away by the logistics and management of the Kumbh Mela? Yes.

The path we opted for followed what would usually would be a road, and for the first time in India, I was grateful when the honking of rickshaws and cars returned as we neared its end.

Hailing an auto, we passed Ferris wheels and music blaring from a temporary modern theme park, competing with the chanting that echoed out of the wide, colourful windows of the temple across the street.

Abruptly, our rip-off Rickshaw ride came to an end at a roadblock. Much of the designated Kumbh area is vehicle-free, so we resigned ourselves to the long walk back. Bridge nineteen I thought, as we glanced it taunting us in the distance a few hours later.

‘You can only see India when you let India inside of you. Don’t keep it at arm’s length’ Sadhvi Bhagawatiji advised before dusk as we waited for the evening Ganga Aarti, a spiritual event of chanting and community led by Swami Chidanand.

Her words resonated with my usual travel style, yet somehow, I hadn’t experienced the Kumbh Mela as I had envisioned. Perhaps it was me, feeling like a foreign intruder and too unsure to interact fully, or maybe it was ultimately that the event wasn’t for tourists; it was for people’s spiritual connections.

I was aware of the stories around me, nearly fifty million different stories, in fact. Each came from different homes and on different journeys; there were never-ending novels of stories here. Some visitors had walked for days; others had abandoned their cars at the final hurdle when roads had shut. But nearly all were brought here because of one thing: their faith. I wanted to know more; I wanted to know the personal stories, but it didn’t seem like the place to stop and ask.

As I stood on the dusty banks of the Ganga, now reunited with my group, I felt present but still not fully there. I wasn’t sure if this journey to the Kumbh Mela was meant for looking at everything around me or for looking inside myself. There are some moments I wish my job wasn’t to photograph or film but merely to be present; this was one of those.

The flames were lit for the Aarti, and everyone who was sat around joined in chanting, I, however, slunk to the back of the crowd. This was a dream photo moment, it was unlike anything else I’d experienced, yet by now I was confident this wasn’t for me, and it meant so much more to the people in front. It was right to let them enjoy this moment after their incredible and long journeys to be here. Travelling is as much about knowing when to let someone else take in the experience as it is knowing when to experience it yourself.

At dinner that night, I reflected a lot: on travelling, on faith and on spirituality. The Kumbh Mela has triggered something in me, but I just couldn’t work out what.

The next morning before dawn was the Mauni Amavasya, a maha snan day. The planetary positions are what define the most favourable days for bathing, and thus, this was the most attended day of the Kumbh Mela and the event I was most looking forward to. It is on these special days that the Naga Sadhus lead the procession to the Sangam and initiate the bathing from the moment the moon hits its key position until after sunrise.

At first, the plan was to leave the night before and take the crowded journey across the river by foot, finally reuniting me with that elusive number nineteen bridge. A last-minute change led to our guide confirming boats for the early hours instead, which was sadly the start of the end.

To say the rest of my time at the Kumbh Mela didn’t go to plan would be an understatement. The boats couldn’t get to where they needed to, the logistics fell apart, and as people bathed on either side of the river, we bobbed around a plastic pontoon, removed from the very reason we were here on this day. We were locked in limbo land, too far from either river bank to be fully involved.

The Sangam was in the distance, enjoying its prime moment of glory, and I burst into hysterical and delirious laughter from a lack of sleep. A day earlier, we had accidentally arrived at the Sangam cursing, yet now, at the moment we had come for it, it was just slightly out of reach.

In hindsight, I can remind myself of what I thought at the evening aarti. This isn’t an event for me or my camera, and perhaps it was a divine intervention that stopped our vast group of camera-wielding journalists from blocking people’s views of such a once-in-a-lifetime moment.

Travel is unexpected, and no matter how much planning you make, things can go wrong. This was one of those mornings, and it sadly brings my Kumbh Mela story to an abrupt and uneventful end.

Am I glad I went? Yes. Would I go again? Unsure. Did I experience the event in the way I had wished? Certainly not.

But if you find yourself in India during the Kumbh Mela, it’s genuinely worth attending even if just for a day, this is an event you’ll never forget, and the experience and takeaway will be different for each person.

Don’t go marvelling at the millions of people as I did, though; go looking for that one story, that one human connection, and do better than me, go more in-depth than I did, and throw out any preconceptions or expectations.

Arrive at the Kumbh Mela with an open mind and let it play out. There are fifty million reasons your journey will be unique, but you only need to find one.

I’m sad I didn’t get enough time to learn more of the stories of why people were here, the stories of their journeys and faith or what this meant for them. The only story I left the Kumbh Mela with was mine, an incomplete, pages missing kind of chapter. The Kumbh Mela had left a mark on me, but I’m not so sure what that mark was.

Perhaps, one day, I’ll return to Prayagraj and write this story’s ending.

Need to know: The Prayagraj Kumbh Mela

A few tips and insights to make planning your visit to The Prayagraj Kumbh Mela a little easier.

How to get to Prayagraj Kumbh Mela: The Bamrauli airport connects with a few domestic destinations in India. The train station, Allahabad (the old cities name) is also well served from main stations including express trains. Otherwise, many buses ply the routes to Prayagraj. Just be aware that the traffic is insane, especially on peak days, so plan and allow for this. Forward planning is KEY to having a good Kumbh experience.

How to get around the Prayagraj Kumbh Mela: Much of your time at the Kumbh will be spent exploring on foot, as it really is the only option. Rickshaws, e-rickshaws and bikes are available, but be aware they have restrictions on where they can drive during the festival.

Where to stay in Prayagraj during the Kumbh Mela: Tent cities are erected across the city in various comfort classes. I stayed in one of the more luxurious tent cities, but this was on the other side of the river to the main points, although there were Kumbh festivities everywhere. You can actually find these tent cities and book them on sites such as booking.com, etc.

Where to go after the Prayagraj Kumbh Mela: Head off and explore more of the Uttar Pradesh region, such as Lucknow and Varanasi. For those seeking the iconic, the Taj Mahal is in Agra, also in the region, and is a great place to begin the famous India Golden Triangle tour of Agra, Jaipur and Delhi.

Bathing: After a lot of consideration, I decided not to take a dip. Partly because it was not my place but also because of the water quality. The Yamuna River, in particular, is noted for its pollution and effects on those not used to it, so do your homework and be informed if you decide to bathe or not.

Accessibility at the Prayagraj Kumbh Mela: The area is very busy, and bridges, roads and dust paths can be uneven although there aren’t many stairs and some of the temporary toilets are designated for disability access.