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  • Discovering Dresden’s Christmas Markets and Saxony’s Festive Traditions

    Discovering Dresden’s Christmas Markets and Saxony’s Festive Traditions

    When it comes to festive city breaks in Europe, there are a few cities that seem to hog the spotlight. But if you really want to experience the Christmas magic, Dresden and the region of Saxony, Germany is the perfect sized present you might not know you need.

    Boasting eleven Christmas markets in Dresden alone, alongside a whole host of other traditions that complete Christmas, my week-long festive filming session in Saxony transported me to a true winter wonderland.

    There was, in fact, so much festive cheer to see and do; I’ve split this article into two parts. While here I’ll focus more on the city-break side of exploring around Dresden, my second post on Christmas in Seiffen and the Ore Mountains will take you to total Christmas overload.

    One of the best testaments as to why Christmas is at the heart of Saxony is the year-round production that occurs here: from festive stars to the delicious Dresdner Stollen.

    The region of Upper Lusatia which is easy to reach during a weekend in Dresden is home to many of these traditions, and so I’ve combined them in with this Christmas in Dresden guide. While public transport will take you to most of these places, I highly recommend a car to explore, just remember to park it for the night before sinking too many mulled wines!

    Dresden ‘Christmas Garden’

    Christmas Garden Dresden

    The winter wonderland magic started just a 30-minute drive from Dresden against the stunning background of The Pillnitz Palace. There are castles in abundance in Saxony, and in this grand park, where the castle combines traditional and Asian influences, you can walk through advent calendars and glittering lights and marvel at festive projections that dance across the facades of the palace buildings.

    Baking Dresdner Christstollen at Wipplers

    Just next door to the Pillnitz Palace, you’ll find the bakers at Wipplers who are hard at work baking the Dresdner Christstollen, especially at this time of year!

    This world-famous festive treat is part of the regions culinary heritage, and for centuries a select group of pastry chefs and bakers have produced this raisin, butter and almond treat.

    Only around 120 bakers are officially allowed to produce the traditional Dresdner Stollen, and here, with a museum and the chance of a tour if booked in advance, is your chance to witness the production first-hand. The Wippler bakers have been hard at work for generations, and Andrew, who leads the team here alongside his father, took me behind the scenes into this perfectly organised operation.

    It was incredible to see how fast hands moved here, and producing the levels they do at such high quality is no easy task. A single batch of Stollen has around 180 kilos, and the process takes a few days. From preparing the dough, weighing it out, baking it, buttering it, resting, and then the final sprinkle of sugar, over 1000 Stollen is produced in this small bakery per day during the peak season leading up to Christmas.

    The best part of course? Sampling the freshest Stollen right from the heart of its home.

    Gingerbread in Pulsnitz

    Along the drive back to Dresden, a visit to Pulsnitz in the Upper Lusatia part of Saxony will take you to the Gingerbread Capital of the country.

    For generations, since 1558, the ginger-infused treat has been baked here, so much so that a museum dedicated to the production of gingerbread has sprung up in the town. Here, I saw the traditional methods and recipes, as well as learned the long history behind how the produce was first made and how modern methods came in. If you catch the team on a baking day, expect to have some light gingerbread handed to you straight from the oven.

    Just moments away I also popped into the tiny store of Löschner, a gingerbread specialist that had a queue of customers lining up outside to get their Christmas treats.

    Popping upstairs to visit the equally small production area, I was impressed by the small team working to original recipes in such a small space to create such a legendary brand of sweet slices. While it wouldn’t be possible for visitors to see the production usually, be sure to pick up a bag or two of treats or the adorable hearts and shoes made of gingerbread that this specialist is particularly famed for.

    Meissen Albrechtsburg

    Meissen and its Markets

    The town of Meissen was an unscheduled stop, but it was one of my favourite places to visit in the whole of Saxony.

    Famed for its porcelain production, the first thing that will strike you when driving towards the town is the impressive and unmissable 15th-century Albrechtsburg. This castle-come-church has an enviable position perched on a hill overlooking the town and is well worth visiting. A walk up to the castle will provide you with a dreamy view across the rooftops of the town. Be sure to keep an eye out for the artwork painted onto the sides of some of the buildings.

    The Christmas market itself is adorable, and the hall alongside the market, with its numerous windows all sporting numbers, is transformed into a life-size advent calendar for the weeks leading up to Christmas.

    As with all the Saxony Christmas markets I visited, expected plenty of mulled wine, local foods, and the chance to buy any gifts or products from the local manufactories. This is one well worth putting on your Christmas visit to Dresden list!

    Meissen Christmas Market

    Visit the Moravian Stars Manufactury in Herrnhuter

    One decoration you’ll notice time and time again no matter what region of Germany you are in will be the Moravian Stars.

    These multi-coloured Christmas decorations, traditionally red and white, adorn trees, rooftops, and any other place where something can be hung throughout both the country and the world, originate from right here in Saxony.

    Originally they began as a way to entertain children as their parents would be away on missionary trips, but over time they stopped being just children’s crafts and became a full-blown production in 1876. By 1925 the patent had been registered, and production of the stars in both Herrnhutter and a nearby factory rocketed.

    Touring the demonstration workshop, you can see the stages of the star production, and turn your hand to make your own star which makes this an ideal activity for families. It is nearly a two-hour drive to Herrnhutter though, so I would highly recommend combing this with a trip to the city of Bautzen if you do venture out this way.

    Bautzen and Sorbian culture

    Bautzen is a romantic city, and it offers up some fascinating history for those who want a little culture on their Christmas trip to Dresden.

    Here you’ll find the festive staples at the market on the main square, but the still mirror-like river, imposing castle turrets and walls, and the intriguing church are other reasons to visit.

    The first thing you notice about the church from the outside is the peculiar shape it holds, having been built at an angle. Inside, though, is where you’ll find something very different.

    The Cathedral of St Peter is one of the oldest churches in Germany and is home to two faiths, which makes the interior so fascinating as in one hall you can physically see very little divide between the two places of worship inside. The mix of both a Gothic and Baroque interior also add to making this one of the most unique churches in Europe.

    One of the official minority languages of German is Sorbian, and here in Bautzen is the first time I got to hear it being spoken. Lusatia and Bautzen is the homeland of the West Slavic ethnic group who also reside in Poland and the Czech Republic.

    Here in Bautzen I really enjoyed the chance to visit a traditional restaurant and dine on the official wedding dinner of the Sorbs, with a focus on meat and potatoes, as well as learn a little more about their culture and history from the local museum. I especially enjoyed seeing the storytelling of local Sorbian legends played out across the coloured glass windows.

    Admittedly, I had no idea about the Sorbs history and culture before arriving in Bautzen, but I highly recommend anyone who travels to Saxony to do so, and while German has become a lot more common, you will still find street signs and people talking in Sorbian around the region.

    Dresden Striezelmarkt

    Ecumenical service in the Church of the Holy Cross marking the opening of the Striezelmarkt

    If you are lucky enough to be in Dresden for the grand opening of the Stiezelmarkt, be sure to get yourself to the Church of the Holy Cross for a very special service.

    The Dresden Kreuzchor is one of the most famous choirs in the world, and at this special event, the 130-strong choir performs the opening ceremony at the church alongside the market before a parade ensues with the miners’ orchestra, finishing at the centre of the market where the Mayor announces its grand opening.

    Ecumenical service in the Church of the Holy Cross

    The Dresden Striezelmarkt

    Nearly 600 years old, the Dresden Striezelmarkt is the oldest German Christmas market and is quite the spectacle.

    With in-the-know crowds descending on this large square to indulge in the glowing lights, countless food and mulled wine stores and lining up to buy their Christmas gifts, you can’t get much more festive than this.

    Dresden Striezelmarkt

    Here you’ll be able to find all of the regional products, from the famed Moravian stars right through to the traditional wooden toys and decorations from the Ore Mountains. This is by far one of the most magical Christmas markets I have ever been to, and it certainly makes a Christmas trip to Dresden complete!

    The other Christmas Markets of Dresden

    If you love Christmas, and especially Christmas Markets, then Dresden is the city for you!

    Nearly every street or square comes alive at some point during December, with eleven Christmas Markets throughout the city. Each one has a slightly different theme and focus, and given the relatively compact nature of Dresden, they are ideal for exploring by foot – just remember to wrap up warm!

    One of the more unique markets is the Medieval Christmas Market, which sits in the courtyard of the impressive Dresden Royal Palace.

    Here you’ll find a different array of foods, such as barbequed slow-cooked meats, while the handicrafts and goods for sale have a more ancient vibe. If you are feeling brave, you can even take part in the tradition of joining the winter hot-tub!

    Christmas under the Frauenkirche

    Perhaps Dresden’s most famous and imposing sight, the Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady) has two markets under its spire. In the large square adjacent, you’ll find a towering tree and smiling faces enjoying mulled wine under the magnificent architecture the glowing church provides.

    One of my favourite markets in Saxony, though, is also one of the smallest. The Christmas market at the Frauenkirche, which links the Elbe River to Church Square, is dominated by the smells of roasted chestnuts and sweet cinnamon treats, and being a sucker for festive foods, this was where I spent a good chunk of time working on my winter body!

    Dresden Christmas Markets

    But Christmas doesn’t end in Dresden

    After soaking up as much of the Dresden Christmas vibes as I could, it was time to leave the city and head to the Ore Mountains and other day trips from Dresden such as the uber-cool city of Leipzig.

    In the Ore Mountains, especially the town of Seiffen, you’ll find one of the most Christmassy places on earth no matter what month of the year you visit. If you have longer than a weekend for your Dresden Christmas trip, I highly suggest you hire a car and head for the mountains.

  • Six of Mexico City’s Sustainable & Community Tourism Companies

    Six of Mexico City’s Sustainable & Community Tourism Companies

    During my recent week-long visit to Mexico City, I was privileged with the opportunity to visit six of the businesses receiving support and mentorship from a recently launched Tourism Recovery Programme.

    From organic-only wine bars to agricultural experiences and tours with an indigenous twist, it quickly became apparent this was a programme loyal to its word – where small, sustainable travel and impactful local businesses were genuinely feeling the benefits.

    As I met more and more passionate business owners, each with their own unique stories to tell, I was reminded of just how precious travel can be – as well as being a catalyst for change.

    From Mayra, the founder of NGO Manos a la Tierra, who was now embarking on turning her conservation work into authentic tourism experiences, to Alfonso, a member of a Nopal (cactus) farming cooperative, who wanted to open the doors to travellers wishing to see behind-the-scenes of this culinary staple, each of these businesses was genuinely focused on sustainability, community and responsible tourism.

    While some of them only offer day trips in Mexico City, others, such as Trueke, have a wealth of knowledge from all corners of Mexico and can create tailor-made itineraries which include the top attractions alongside authentic, traditional experiences.

    If you plan a trip to Mexico City and seek sustainable tourism activities, I hope one of these companies becomes a part of your trip and brings you as much happiness as they did me.

    Get beyond the city centre to discover community tourism

    Introducing the Tourism Recovery Programme

    The aforementioned Tourism Recovery Programme, which has been supporting businesses in Mexico amongst other countries, is a perfect collaboration between tourism experts TUI Care Foundation, a separate entity to well-known TUI Holidays, and enpact, a Berlin-based organisation specialised in supporting entrepreneurs and their ecosystems in building capacity and growing their impact.

    Providing networking, mentorships, and training, the programme’s reach and skills development side have been helping these local operators face the challenges of a ‘post-pandemic’ world.

    As well as the training and support, an initial funds boost amounting to €9000 was supplied to nominated businesses by GIZ, a German development agency, under a commission by the German Federal Ministry for International Cooperation and Development. This allocation aimed to help the tourism companies survive the immediate impact of the pandemic in the short term, while the programme’s overall aim was to grow long-term abilities and new markets for the businesses through mentorship, training, and networking.

    You can learn more about the Tourism Recovery Programme here, but for now, let me introduce you to some of these incredible businesses waiting for your visit to Mexico City.

    Fields of Nopales on the Ruta Páak’am

    Cacti cuisine, touring the Nopal Route with Ruta Páak’am

    While many of the businesses I visited during my time in Mexico were already somewhat established in tourism, or at least volunteer space, the Ruta Páak’am team has historically worked in product production, with the Nopal (Prickly Pear Cactus) cooperative producing various delicious and healthy products in their nearby factory.

    Now, through the leadership of Alfonso, they want to invite travellers to Mexico City to step outside the inner neighbourhoods and discover the Ruta Páak’am on a full-day itinerary of gastronomy and culture.

    The tours begin at a newly constructed facility, where an expert in cacti delves into the details and facts about this plant species, of course focusing on the edible Nopals. There are no worries about not understanding any part of the day with a translator supplied.

    Learning about Nopales

    After learning about all the different plants, you’ll have a chance to cut and prepare them yourself, with all the hard work accumulating in a delicious family-style cooked meal of Nopal-based dishes.

    Other highlights of the tour include a visit to a nearby Mole factory in one of the most famed towns for its production and a spiritual ceremony inside the crater of an extinct volcano.

    Visiting the famed Teotihuacan pyramids

    Trueke, tours with a community twist

    Karen Steiner, the founder of Trueke Tours, always wants to find the balance between the top attractions and local, community-focused experiences on her tours.

    With a background working at an NGO supporting communities that natural disasters have affected, Karen has built extensive connections in all corners of the country, allowing her to piece together multi-day itineraries for travellers wishing to delve a little deeper into their travels.

    While I only had a day trip from Mexico City arranged by Trueke, they still managed to stay true to their word.

    Following a breathtaking morning balloon flight over the ancient Teotihuacan pyramids, my driver whisked me into a tiny village. Entering a small grey door, I was greeted by Ericka and her husband Rafaela, who sat me down in their living room to enjoy a proper home-cooked meal.

    While this was only a snippet of the type of local experiences Trueke offers, it gave me an idea of how personal and intimate a full tour would be. After lunch, I should have headed for a Temazcal – a sort of sweating ceremony in an igloo-shaped lodge with spiritual roots – however, this still wasn’t possible due to COVID at the time of travel.

    Seeking another side of the city with Manos a la Tierra

    Mayra Jiménez, the founder of Manos a la Tierra, is another inspiring leader with an impactful history working in NGOs. In fact, Manos started and still operates as an NGO, and recently, they have decided to expand into tourism offerings.

    Mayra sees this as a double win; for travellers, they get to connect with the nature and communities of the country, while the funds raised from the tours will allow her conservation and ecological projects to expand at a quicker pace.

    With connections and tour opportunities across the country in the pipeline, Manos a la Tierra can provide custom itineraries to travellers. For my day trip from Mexico City, I was privileged to see another side of Xochimilco. While nowadays it’s more famed for colourful trajineras boats often serenaded by Mariachi bands, historically, this UNESCO listed site’s importance started as agricultural land.

    Still, to this day, the incredible Chinampa technique of using floating gardens as farmland survives. During a day inside the Protected Natural Area of San Gregorio Atlapulco, I witnessed this first-hand.

    Unbelievably, I was the only tourist inside the protected area that day. Accompanied by David, a Chinampa farmer, I learned all about this historic farming method, which dates back to the Aztecs, floated down serene canals, and watched migratory birds flying high above the lakes. Needless to say, I quickly forgot I was in a metropolis like Mexico City!

    Different flavours with Sabores Mexico Food Tours

    Neighbourhood flavours with Sabores Mexico Food Tours & Loup Bar

    I’m sure you don’t need me to tell you that the gastronomy of Mexico is some of the best in the world. However, it’s also some of the most diverse – and local, regional flavours can be hard to find in the capital city.

    Enter Sabores Mexico Food Tours, who offer three different half-day tours in Mexico City, all focused on savouring the very best dishes it has to offer.

    During my five hours with Grace, my fantastic guide, we traversed the Colonia Roma neighbourhood – famed for its grand buildings and fascinating history – while eating multiple dishes that each amazed me.

    With a focus on small, inventive cafes and restaurants, many of which focus on lesser-known, remote regional cuisine, I took my taste buds on a journey around the country without having to walk more than a few blocks.

    Learning about the neighbourhood and the city as we strolled between each restaurant was a fantastic way to prepare my stomach for more food and understand the suburb more in-depth. If you spend any time in Mexico City, you quickly realise that not only is it incredibly vast, but each neighbourhood has its own quirks, stories and style.

    Another business supported by the Tourism Recovery Programme, Loup Bar, is also situated in Roma and is well worth a visit if you are in the area.

    In a small and quaint wood-heavy room, a couple of steps down from the street, you’ll find an organic wine menu ranging from local Mexican reds to sparkling Italian wines and even imports from the country of Georgia.

    The food menu complements the wine, focusing on organic and eco-friendly ingredients, with dishes ranging from the usual Mexican staples to French-inspired fare.

    Artistic design in Casa Jacinta

    Casa Jacinta, the guest house with a creative soul

    Creativity is ubiquitous in Coyoacán, a favourite neighbourhood for many beloved artists in Mexico City. Here, piano melodies seep out of windows while galleries, workshops and artisanal craft markets line the streets. Around the leafy squares, mime entertainers and buskers perform, flanked by grand architecture and cathedrals.

    During my time in the city, I stayed in Casa Jacinta, a boutique guest house just moments from the main square that embodies the artistic spirit of Coyoacán inhabits every room.

    Run by a family of artists, painters, writers and sculptors, this wonderful business also invests some of its profits back into fellow local artisans, allowing them to work on their own projects with financial support.

    Quiet, safe, and homely, Casa Jacinta quickly became my home away from home. From the modern, light rooms decorated with the family’s artwork to the verdant, flower-framed garden perfect for reading a book, it was indeed a peaceful retreat to return to after a day exploring the city.

  • Best Places to Visit in Mauritius: Attractions, Nature & Beaches

    Best Places to Visit in Mauritius: Attractions, Nature & Beaches

    Tumbling waterfalls shrouded by lush rainforest, volcanic crater lakes adorned with kaleidoscopic Hindu statues, and verdant tea plantations ideal for tranquil kayaking are perhaps not the first scenes that spring to mind when you imagine this idyllic island nation. They are, however, just a few of the best places to visit in Mauritius beyond the cyan waters and silky soft white sands, which make it one of the world’s best beach destinations.

    Often touted as a dream honeymoon destination, thanks to the plethora of luxury resorts and seemingly endless beaches, many overlook the other offers of one of the world’s best islands to visit.

    While, for some, the irresistible cocktails crafted with local rum and warm, welcoming Indian Ocean waters are enough of a draw, there are plenty more reasons to visit Mauritius. Here are some of the best places (in my opinion) to explore and experience, whether you want to devour delicious dishes, discover the culture, or dig into some adventure-fuelled activities.

    Grand Bassin (Ganga Talao)

    Sitting some 500 metres above sea level and set amongst the verdant mountainous southwest, the volcanic crater lake of Ganga Talao is one of the best places to visit in Mauritius both for the beautiful wild setting and to dig a little deeper into the island’s predominant religion, Hinduism.

    Start your visit with a stroll around the serene lake, often with animated monkeys keeping an eager eye, before admiring the temple, small shrines and statues of influential Hindu gods.

    During the significant pilgrimage, around February or March, for the Maha Shivaratri Festival, hundreds of thousands of worshipers flock to the lake.

    Make it happen: If you have a car, it’s an easy drive to the Grand Bassin. During February and March, when the pilgrimage takes place, hundreds of thousands of people visit the site, so worth keeping in mind. There are various tours of the island’s southwest if you are without a car, like this one, which includes time at the lake.

    Get to the heart of Mauritius’s multi-culture history

    Le Morne Brabant

    Situated on the island’s southwestern tip, the hypnotising magnificence of Le Morne Brabant is more than deserving of its UNESCO-listed status.

    Flanked by fine white sandy shores and tranquil waters that glimmer in shades of cerulean and cyan, it’s a must-visit destination in Mauritius. If you have ever seen an image of the underwater ‘waterfall’ illusion, then you’ll recognise the basaltic monolith towering in the background.

    Rising to a height of 556 metres and creating one of the most imposing backdrops for a beach day in the world, you’ll struggle to find a more impressive place to capture your holiday snaps on the island.

    The mountain, for many, is a symbol and reminder of the island’s enslaved peoples’ fight for freedom, for it was in these isolated cliffs and wooded areas that many escaped to, forming small settlements. Spend some time learning about the Maroon Republic during your time on the island.

    Make it happen: Depending on how you wish to experience the Peninsula, you can either drive or take a transfer to the beaches. If, however, you want to summit the peak, especially at sunrise, it’ll be best to book a tour with a local guide.

    Beaches around Le Morne Brabant

    Ile Aux Aigrettes

    Just a brief boat ride from the mainland, the islet of Ile Aux Aigrettes is one of many isles and boat excursion tour options to consider. What makes this a must-visit place for wildlife enthusiasts in Mauritius is the focus on scientific research within the nature reserve.

    Following some significant restoration work, it’s a paradise within a paradise, where you can witness giant tortoises roaming free (often found in pens, for protection, elsewhere on the island), the intriguing Pink Pigeon, and an extensive array of indigenous fauna and flora.

    Make it happen: There are various tours and operators running trips to the Islands.

    Bois Cheri Tea Factory

    The largest tea producer on the island, Bois Cheri, is a delightful environment and promises much more than a decent cuppa.

    Take a tour of the grounds, where row upon row of manicured tea plants guide you down to a blissful lake ideal for kayaking, before taking a tour of the factory. Witness the tea in all stages of the process, from drying to packaging, before enjoying a flavoursome tasting. The vanilla tea is one not to miss.

    Verdant and lush, the setting cries out for much more than just sampling the infusions, though. Devour a gastronomic treat in the attached restaurant to the backdrop of the rolling hills of Mauritius and playful deer. For a unique overnight adventure, you can book a stay in the small bubble lodge with a transparent domed roof ideal for stargazing – complete with the promise of the perfect morning cup of chai!

    Make it happen: The factory is open for visitors Monday – Saturday, from 9:00 – 17:00, and the roads are good for driving access. Some of the tours of the south coast include stops here.

    Port Louis & Market

    Be sure to leave time for some urban exploring during your stay, and of course, the capital city of Port Louis is the best place in Mauritius to do so.

    The compact capital offers a great insight into day-to-day life on the island, particularly for those who have opted to stay in a resort. Le Caudan Waterfront is excellent for walking, with colourful umbrellas hanging above shopping passages and an abundance of bars and restaurants to rest at along the water.

    One of the finest ways to experience and savour the flavours of the city is at the central market. The hive of activity is found on the ground floor, stocked with multicoloured fruit, veg, tea and snacks from the provinces, while local fabrics and goods are located upstairs. Often called the national dish of Mauritius, Dholl Puri is a must-try, specifically from the small vendors on the street outside. These flatbreads, stuffed with smashed split peas, are mouthwatering when topped up with a spicy chilli paste – though if your tastebuds can’t handle hot food with a kick, go easy!

    Make it happen: As the capital city, it’s easy to get to – including by local bus. The earlier you go to the market, the better, which is open from around 5:00 to 16:00, except on Sunday, when it closes earlier.

    Pamplemousses Botanical Garden

    Formally called Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden, yet more typically referred to as Pamplemousses Botanical Garden, botanists and amateurs will be drawn in by the fine array of flora.

    The oldest botanical garden in the southern hemisphere, dating back some 300 years, is only a short drive from Port Louis yet feels a world away as you trade in the atmosphere of the markets for a peaceful walk through towering palms and delicate flowerbeds.

    The pool of giant water-lilies (Victoria Amazonica) is quite the sight, and their protection is paramount due to facing extension. Allow yourself at least an hour to explore the gardens, yet with 90 acres and over 600 plants, many indigenous, you could well find yourself here for a long time.

    Make it happen: Open from 8:30 – 17:30 daily, the gardens are less than a 15-minute drive or taxi from Port Louis.

    Grand Baie

    The most popular destination for tourists to Mauritius, and with good reason, Grand Baie isn’t going to take you off the beaten path, but it serves up everything one could want for a water-based day out.

    Water sports lovers will find their day quickly filled here, with sailing, windsurfing, SUP, and countless boat excursions – including scuba diving – available along this section of the coast.

    With plenty of shops, restaurants, and nightlife until the early hours, even if you aren’t staying close by, chances are you’ll find yourself passing through Grand Baie at some point during your Mauritius holiday.

    Make it happen: A popular destination with many hotels nearby; chances are you may be close by – especially if you stay at the incredible Beachcombers resort as I did, an absolute dream of a hotel!

    Rochester Falls

    One of my favourite moments in Mauritius was the morning we spent splashing around the cold waters of Rochester Falls. There was just our group there until shortly after when a coconut seller joined us, his wrinkled handles expertly hacking open the green balls of goodness for us.

    To access these relatively small falls, we ploughed our four-wheel-drive along rough mud tracks, shrouded in towering sugar cane so close we could reach from the windows and stroke it. On arrival, it was a slippy muddy climb down to the waterfalls, but the site of the falls and chilly awakening of the waters was more than reward enough for the effort.

    Of course, there are many waterfalls dotted across the island, some easier to access than others, but for me, and perhaps it was the memory of that sweet coconut water as my feet cooled in the pool that made this one of my best places to visit in Mauritius.

    Make it happen: You’ll need a bit of adventure, and perhaps a 4WD, to explore the dense vegetation out this way, but it is well worth it! Consider booking a quad bike tour to access the falls and experience another side of Mauritius.

    A peaceful morning at Rochester Falls

    Black River Gorges National Park

    In the hilly south of Mauritius, the Black River Gorges National Park, the largest protected forest in the nation, provides ample opportunity to strap on your hiking boots and get lost entirely in leafy, dense nature. The landscapes are sublime, with the rolling hills meeting rainforest just as magical as the lapping waves on heavenly sands.

    For many, the main draw is to witness the impressive Alexandra waterfall tumbling 150 metres down into the lush greenery below. However, with hundreds of species of plants, monkeys, delightful bird-watching options, and challenging hiking trails to tackle, you could easily and happily spend a day, or longer, discovering the national park.

    Make it happen: There are many different ways to explore and experience the national park depending on your interests, but consider taking an eco-tour with a guide to get stuck in.

    Chamarel Rhumerie

    With sugar cane across the island, it should come as no surprise that one of the best places to visit in Mauritius is a rum distillery.

    At Chamarel Rhumierie, you can expect a slick tour and tasting experience on the southwest coast – from the extensive grounds to the production rooms and the all-important tasting room, where cocktails are shaken and straight pours served. Perhaps, take a taxi for this one!

    Make it happen: You can visit Monday – Saturday, between 9:00 – 16:00.

    Of course, there are plenty more amazing places to visit in Mauritius – Tamarind & Chamarel Falls, Ile Aux Cerfs, and countless other beaches.

  • Curious about Cremona, Italy: a city of vintage violins, mustard fruit and sweet surprises

    Curious about Cremona, Italy: a city of vintage violins, mustard fruit and sweet surprises

    ‘I don’t think I’ll enjoy a violin museum’, I confessed to Janet as we parked up on the last day of our Lombardy road trip. I looked around guiltily; it likely wasn’t the best confession to make in Cremona, a city that has built a celebrity status around the stringed instrument. But to be honest, I knew little more about this day trip from Milan, just over 90 minutes away from the region’s fashion capital.

    Spoiler alert: the Violin Museum was more interesting than anticipated. Cremona, though, does have a lot more to offer than displays dedicated to global musical talent. Enough to make it still well worth putting on your Lombardy plan, even if you, too, also don’t fancy a violin museum.

    Tasting Mostarda di Cremona

    ‘It’s especially popular at Christmas’, Elena, at the tourist office, had advised us, as Janet and I shared confused glances.

    ‘But… but, it’s fruit in Mustard’ I said in disbelief, wondering if my enquiry about regional food specialities had been lost in translation. Curious and slightly concerned, we headed over to Formaggi D’Italia, a small local produce store sitting under the shadow of the city’s famous tower.

    Mostarda di Cremona, usually consisting of candied fruit coated in a mustard-flavoured syrup, was indeed a local speciality, with a history dating back to the Roman Empire and the preservation of fruit.

    Never one to say no to food, especially in Italy, I skewered a cherry onto my fork and prepared for the worst. The slightly spicy syrup still retained its sugary base, and the crystalised fruit complemented it well. I was kind of in disbelief, but Mostarda di Cremona actually tasted pretty damn lovely, even at 10 in the morning.

    Today was going to be a day of Cremona surprises!

    The ceiling of Cremona Cathedral

    After a slightly bizarre breakfast, we set out to explore the small city of Cremona. Sitting close to the border with Emilia Romagna, the next region down from Lombardy, I quickly noticed influences from both areas in the architecture.

    Porticos led to small squares with local restaurants, all radiating from the main square where the imposing and quite unique Cathedral took pride of place.

    The main square is home to the city’s key pieces of architecture, including the 16th-century Torrazzo of Cremona, the mascot and icon.

    Connected to the Cathedral, the Tower of Cremona boasts a height of over 110 metres, making it the third tallest brick tower in the world. As with most Italian cities, you’ll need to climb it for some of the best views. Once you reach the top, which comes complete with traffic lights due to how narrow it is, you can look across Lombardy and neighbouring Emilia Romagna.

    Back on the ground level, you can admire the astronomical clock attached to the tower and the impressive-looking Cremona Cathedral.

    A stunning example of Romanesque art, the Cathedral nearly didn’t get off the ground. While construction started in the 1100s, an earthquake came along and severely damaged the Cathedral shortly after. Eventually, some 60 years later, construction was completed, but with various extensions and additions, you’ll notice the array of styles both inside and outside the Cathedral.

    Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance features all appear, and while the exterior is grand, the interior artwork really stands out.

    The frescoes inside were created by well-known artists, and the story of Mary and Christ follows around the interior. The trickey art will make you feel like eyes are following you, and some of the masterstrokes of painting have created an almost 3D element.

    Cremona town hall

    As is common in the region, an octagonal Baptistery sits alongside the Cathedral, which was built shortly after the completion of the main building.

    For some of the best views of the Cathedral, head to the opposite building, the town hall. Here, the upper-level windows help you get a better view of the detailed facade.

    Most importantly though, do get and wander the quaint, colourful streets of Cremona, as with most of Italy, the joy is found down the alleyways of local producers, warm-hued houses, and small coffee shops perfect for taking a break.

    By midday, the city felt deserted, a strange feeling in late June, especially coming from the buzzing metropolis of Milan. Perhaps the burning sun had driven the locals indoors, but I still don’t think this city is on the top of the tourist radar yet.

    Pumpkin stuffed pasta, Tortelli di Zucca, is a staple from nearby Mantua, but it can also be found on menus here in Cremona and is a delicious lunch you must try. Playing full-blown tourists, we sat down to enjoy ours in Ristorante Pizzeria Duomo Cremona, where the terrace looks onto the Cathedral front.

    For dessert, I highly recommend the Mousse di Torrone Cremonese, which uses the Nougat famous from Cremona in a soft and delicious form.

    Inside Mariannes Violin Workshop

    I can’t write about Cremona without covering the violins this city is most famous for, and while I didn’t overly enjoy the Violin Museum, there’s another way to appreciate the beauty of these instruments.

    The Violin Museum itself is modern and well-equipped, although the €10 entrance fee restricts interest to those already passionate about the instrument. Inside, an audio-guide tour will take you through the rooms where violins by famous players and composers are preserved, and the violin-making history of the city is documented.

    To give you a brief history lesson, it was here in Cremona that the modern violin prototype was invented. Now, it is one of the most famous places for producing violins worldwide, if not the most famous. Antonio Stradivari is a well-known name for producing the best quality violins in the world, and it was in the workshops where many of his stringed instruments were made, often referred to as Stradivarius.

    If you are a little intrigued by the violin-making process, then I highly suggest that rather than, or in addition to the museum, you visit one of the Violin workshops that are still active in the city. This fascinated me, especially learning how much goes into making a handmade Cremona Violin.

    ‘14,000 Euros’ Janet gasped in disbelief as Marianne Jost showed us around the violin workshop she shared with her husband.

    With each one of these handmade violins taking upwards of three months to put together, always to order delicately, the cost started to seem justified. It isn’t your amateur newbie who is likely ordering a violin from Marianne; it’s a passionate player who wants to invest in their art.

    The workshop tour took us through the stages of the violin, from the sourcing of the wood to the tools used. Cutting out, sanding down, and piecing together these beautiful instruments is indeed a much more time-consuming task than I ever knew possible, and I left that workshop with a newfound respect for all those who are keeping traditional woodwork alive.

    Sunflowers spotted on the drive into Cremona

    ‘I really enjoyed that’, I confessed to Janet as we returned to our car. I’d known little more about Cremona before we arrived, but it had turned out to be one of those curious places that you venture to, unsure of what you’ll find or whether you’ll enjoy it.

    For those who have a passion for violins, the draw is undeniable, but it’s also a pleasant city break or day trip from Milan, especially for visitors looking to enjoy Lombardy at a more relaxed pace. Likewise, it is ideal for visitors to nearby Venice who want a slice of the classics without the crowds.

    Cremona, your mustardy-flavoured fruit and passionate artists surprised me in all the right ways.

    Need to know: Cremona

    Tips and insights to make planning your visit to Cremona a little easier.

    Where to stay in Cremona on a budget: L’Archetto offers both dorm and private rooms, a short walk from the city centre. The clean, simple rooms get good write-ups, and the dorms aren’t bunk beds, which is always a bonus!

    Where to stay in Cremona like a baller: For those with a car, the Agriturismo Cascina Farisengo, which is around four kilometres out from Cremona, might be the perfect option. A restored country house centred around a grand courtyard, it will suit those looking for that lazy Lombardy vibe on their vacations.

    How to get to Cremona: From Milan, it takes around 90 minutes to drive to Cremona, where we quickly found parking on a Sunday morning. Direct trains run at just over an hour from Milano Centrale, though they are less frequent than the two-hour service with a connection in Treviglio.

  • London 50: 50 things to do in London

    London 50: 50 things to do in London

    Is London the best city break in the world? It’s undoubtedly one of those cities that has a never-ending list of attractions to visit, quirky things to do, and new restaurant openings. I called London home for much of my adult life, and even after many years living there, I still had so many things left to do on my London bucket-list.

    My real appreciation for London didn’t begin though until I become a tourist. Coming back to a city you once called home with more time (and money) means you can start to appreciate a whole other side to a place. After my two day trip to Manchester, I jumped on a quick train to the capital to start working through my London bucket-list.

    I’ve written about my budget London travel tips before, but here are 101 things to do in London, from the must-visit Museums and quirky speakeasy’s serving up excellent cocktails, through to the hidden underground history and lesser-known gems.

    Walk over the top of Tower Bridge

    Classic London experiences you simply can’t miss
    If you decide to maximise your time in the city by opting to book one of the many London Tours, you can be sure that most of these top highlights below will be covered.

    1.Watch a West End Show

    Catching a West End Show in London is a must, and with over thirty theatres to choose from you have plenty of options, not even counting the Opera Houses and classical music venues. I watched Matilda at the Cambridge Theatre on my last visit and can highly recommend it. Keep an eye out for ‘lottery tickets’ when you are in town, when shows, for example, The Book of Mormon, will do a lottery draw each night for last minute discounted tickets.

    2.Covent Garden Market

    It’s touristy sure, but I love it, and I worked here for many years. Not only have you got lots of cool restaurants around here, but the atmosphere with the street performers is also great. You’ll also often see musical performances in the basement of the cellar. Nearby in Seven Dials, you’ll also find a cool place to shop.

    3.Tower of London


    I’m ashamed to say I’ve never actually been inside the Tower of London, home to the crown jewels and the official fortress of London. You can either buy a ticket and head inside or simply enjoy walking the perimeter.

    4.The Tower Bridge Walkway

    Is there any London view more iconic than the Tower Bridge, especially when the bridge raises in the middle to let ships past.

    What a lot of people don’t realise is you can actually go up the towers and walk across the bridge connecting them. It’s a really cool experience and gives you a different vantage point.

    Changing of the Guard

    5.Changing of the Guard, Buckingham Palace and The Household Cavalry Museum


    You can’t really visit London and skip out on this! Inside Buckingham Palace is the small Household Cavalry Museum which offers an insight into the royal regiment. The changing of the guard happens every day, usually at 10:45 am, though is cancelled in very wet weather, and hey, this is England after all!

    6.Camden Market

    There are plenty of cool Markets in London, but without a doubt one of the most famous is Camden Market. With over 1000 different stalls, selling crafts, fashion, food and plenty more, this buzzing and the photogenic market is another for the London bucket-list.

    7.The South Bank and Tate Modern

    I was very lucky to live in Shad Thames for a while, which is just by Tower Bridge, so got to walk along the South Bank every day to work.

    The views across the Thames are great, and you can go on a London tour here easily, with the impressive Tate Modern museum, Tower Bridge, Waterloo Centre, Shakespeare Globe and St Pauls Cathedral views making it a fantastic walk. You’ll also find some of the best family hotels in London along this stretch, partly due to how much there is to do to keep the little ones entertained, but also how quickly and easily you can get around the whole city from the South Bank.

    8.St Pauls Cathedral

    Another of London’s iconic landmarks, St Pauls Cathedral is a beauty. Sadly, it is quite expensive to visit it (museums tend to be free in London, but a lot of religious buildings charge) so you may want to just enjoy this icon from outside.

    9.The National Gallery

    Not only is The National Gallery in Trafalgar Square home to some 2000+ paintings, but it’s also an incredibly beautiful building inside with free entrance which makes it a must visit for me.

    10.Big Ben & Westminster

    The Houses of Parliament and Big Ben are two of the most famous and impressive architectural buildings in the capital. You can take tours through Westminster Abbey or just admire Big Ben from outside, though know renovation work and cladding will likely be covering it until 2021.

    11.Shopping in London: Hamleys, Harrods and Liberty

    If you like to shop, then London will spoil you. There are though, of course, a few bucket-list London shops you simply must visit. While Hamleys and Harrods are stars, my personal favourite department store in London is Liberty, thanks in parts to the old-world style architecture outside and in.

    Marvellous museums to visit in London

    In London, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to Museums, with literally 100’s to choose from. Here are a few I think are worth checking out.

    12.The London Museum

    The London Museum is great and really interactive, some of the most interesting parts are underground, where mockup shops, streets and pubs from Victorian times help you really understand the history of the city.

    13.The Brunel Museum

    The Brunel Museum in Rotherhithe is a really cool space, worth checking out for the history of the building. Housed in the old engine house, here you used to find the worlds oldest underground theatre.

    14.Churchill War Rooms

    Part of the Imperial War Museum, these underground rooms and bunkers are hidden below Westminster and are where Churchill led WW2 from, an interesting space in the centre of the city.

    15.Natural History Museum

    What a stunner, inside and out, with the architecture of the main hall vying for attention from a blue whale skeleton. A real must visit and it’s free for the main exhibition!

    16.Old Operating Theatre Museum

    One of the oldest surviving operating theatres in the UK, if not the world, this kinda-creepy but kinda-cool museum is really interesting, and something a little bit different.

    17.Museum of Brands

    If you are into art, design and marketing like me, then this quirky museum will interest you. Studying and highlighting different brands and their packaging since the Victorian era, it’s a great call on a wet day!

    18.The Design Museum

    I used to go to The Design Museum regularly when I lived just behind it in Shad Thames, and now it’s moved its new space it’s even better. For anyone into graphics, fashion or even product design, it’s a great space to visit in London.

    Alternative places to get a slice of history in London
    If museums aren’t your thing, then fear not, there are plenty of other opportunities to sample the history and heritage of London.

    19.London Roman Wall

    While maintenance ceased for most of the wall in the 18th-century, you can still find parts of it around the city, although the most famous part is near the Tower of London. Keep an eye out or grab some location pins to spot it elsewhere.

    20.St Bartholomew the Great

    This beautiful church is super ornate inside and out, and I personally believe it is one of the best in London. Located just off Barbican station it also wasn’t very touristy when I visited, but perhaps that was just luck!

    21.Guildhall Yard – Roman Amphitheatre

      Dating back to 2nd century BC, but only discovered in 1988, the remains of London’s Roman Amphitheatre can be found under Guildhall Yard. Above land, you can see an outline of a circle, and below you can visit what has been excavated. It’s not in the best of condition though.

      22.Shakespeare’s Globe

      This amazing outside theatre on the South Bank, and which is open to the elements, is worth popping in to have a look at. The best way to do so would be to actually go and see a show, although walking tours will also fill you in on the history of the building.

      23.Nunhead Cemetery

      Because who doesn’t want to visit a cemetery on their London trip? Nunhead is part of the Magnificent Seven cemeteries of London but isn’t really that visited. It’s pretty overgrown and kinda eery, but if you want some lesser-visited London history, you’ll certainly find it here (a little out of central).

      24.Leadenhall Market

      Since 1445 Leadenhall Market has been in operation, and this covered beauty will have you thinking of Milan I’m sure, in a more compact and London style at least.

      25.An Underground Farm

      Now, this is pretty cool! The worlds first underground farm can now be toured, and it’s very unique location, 33-metres underground no less, is made even more special as it is a WW2 air raid shelter. Told you it was cool!

      26.The Postal Museum and Tunnels

      More tunnels, but this time for the mail rail! At the Postal Museum, you can ride through this quirky underground tunnels that are over 100-years old and learn all about the postal history here in lovely London!

      27.Kingston upon Thames

      Still in London, but a town in its own right, Kingston on Thames is a lovely little day trip out for those who are spending an extended visit to London.

      28.The Queens House, Greenwich

      IMO, one of the most beautiful buildings in London, yet it also didn’t seem too busy when I visited. An old royal residence, it’s rather stately inside and from the ornate ceilings to the curves of the staircases, it just screams beauty and design.

      29.Royal Observatory Greenwich

      Come and literally stand on the timeline at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich. Not only is it in an excellent park, but the meridian line literally passes through here, so you can swat up on your astronomy and navigation knowledge. If you aren’t aware, GMT literally is Greenwich Mean Time.

      Gardens and outside spaces to enjoy in London

      When (yes when, not if) the sun is shining in London, we are spoilt with greeny leafy spaces to go and sunbathe once the slightest ray appears. But, here are some spots worth visiting all year round.

      30.Primrose Hill

      To be honest, I don’t overly get the fuss about here. The views of the London skyline is cool, and I’ve left it on as my friends love heading here, but I think some of the other suggestions are more worth your time.

      31.Postman’s Park

      Postman’s Park isn’t huge, but this small area is beautiful for a special reason, it is dedicated to those who lost their lives saving or helping another. It’s a spot you’ll want to be thoughtful in, especially as you read the plaques of dedication.

      32.Speakers’ Corner in Hyde Park

      Hyde Park is a vast royal park next to Kensington Gardens and including The Serpentine lake, but there is one famed point worth noting, the Speakers Corner. For over 200-years this spot has been a place for people to speak, to share their views, both positive and negative, and even today you’ll often find people doing just that.

      33.Kyoto Gardens in Holland Park

      In case the name didn’t give it away, this beautiful Japanese style garden in Holland Park could be one of the most tranquil and peaceful spots in London, though it’s so popular with photographers and tourists you likely won’t get much of a chance to relax in the height of summer.

      34.Columbia Road Flower Market

      Not really a park, but this Sunday market is a gem and popular with both those looking for flowers, and those looking for the ‘gram.

      35.Barbican Conservatory

      Another Sunday only option, the second biggest conservatory in London is right in the heart of the city, which is what makes it so cool to be honest!

      36.Greenwich Park

      See point above about GMT and the observatory, also it’s a cool park and you can visit the Cutty Sark. Greenwich, in general, is just awesome, as it’s separate enough from London to feel different and the food markets cool. Yeah, I just like Greenwich!

      Meridian Line

      Off-the-beaten-path hidden gems in London

      To be fair, I’m not sure all of these are really hidden gems anymore, or if hidden gems is something you can ever say about a city as populated and visited as London but humour me.

      37.Richmond Park

      THEY HAVE DEER! WILD DEER IN LONDON!

      38.Neal’s Yard

      This colourful quarter near Convent Garden/Seven Dials was not really known when I first moved to London, but now it’s all over Instagram so I imagine it’s pretty hectic on the old photoshoots these days.

      39.St Dunstan in the East

      In the city of London is this weather down, moss-covered, church and it’s dope. I used to sometimes come here to eat my lunch, weird, but it’s a cool spot given it’s passed by daily by 1000s of bankers in suits.

      St Dunstan in the East

      40.Leighton House

      The Eastern Influence of this building makes the ticket price well worth it. Think green and blue tiles, marble pillars and ornate Arabic designs. Check out the photos, you’ll love it, it’s like another world in London.

      41.The Banqueting House

      The last remains of the Palace of Whitehall, again inside this building is beautiful! Monarchs in the 1500s would dine here, and it’s still used for that function today when people aren’t visiting it to break their neck enjoying the divine ceiling.

      42.Eltham Palace

      Back out Greenwich way (did I mention I liked Greenwich?) is Eltham Palace, attractive inside and out, it’s very often used as a wedding venue these days. It’s a real design beast, to be honest, as the medieval building compliments with modern architectural design inside.

      43.Billingsgate Roman Baths

      To be fair, there isn’t that much to look at here, and as such this won’t be for everyone’s London’s bucket-list. But for those interested in the history of Londinium (Roman name) these are worth noting too.

      44.Lost Tube Tunnels

      More tunnels, and this time the old tube lines that have been left abandoned. Hidden London used to run tours to these very sporadically, but now I can’t find out much information about it. Best bet is to reach out to the transport museum and see if they are accessible during your visit to London.

      Views from the Thames Clipper

      Funky ways to get around London

      While central London might seem large on a tube map, in reality, it can often be quicker to walk than taking the tube a few stops, so keep this in mind. But if you want to spice up your transport options, here are a few picks!

      45.Thames Clippers

      As well as the standard public transport options, the Thames Clipper is a boat service which runs up and down the gleaming crystal waters (cough cough) of the Thames. It’s not the cheapest option, but it makes for a nice alternative.

      46.Hop on Hop off bus

      You can’t come to London and not get an iconic red-bus photo, but if you want to avoid learning multiple bus routes, then one of the hop on hop off bus tours which allow you to jump on and off will be a simple, if not more expensive, option.

      47.Jack The Ripper Walking Tour

      A serial killer themed tour, perhaps not one for young kids?

      48.Harry Potter Walking Tour

      A wizarding tour you might have heard of, perhaps better for young kids.

      49.Hidden London Tours

      As I mentioned above, the Hidden London tours offer underground tube tunnel tours, but they also have other options too. I will update this once I’ve got some confirmation on if these awesome London tours are still going.

      50.Bike Scheme

      You’ll spot them all over, once Boris bikes, then Santander bikes, and I don’t really know what they are now. But the London bikes are green and pretty affordable, and you can get more details on that link.

      Speeding up on the Thames Clipper

    1. 10 Awesome Adventure Activities in Bosnia and Herzegovina

      10 Awesome Adventure Activities in Bosnia and Herzegovina

      Underrated and thus relatively undisturbed, Bosnia and Herzegovina is a treasure trove for adrenaline junkies seeking adventure activities in the Balkans. Right now, with still a pretty much under-the-radar status beyond Mostar, that means epic hikes into crowd-free wilderness and white water rafting with friendly price tags.

      Sure, the Albanian Riviera is touted as the next big beach destination, and Kotor in Montenegro seems on the path to becoming the next Dubrovnik, yet Bosnia and Herzegovina so far seems to have avoided most of the spotlight.

      Trust me when I say, though, it won’t be long until all of this country’s best bits are discovered. I’ve made no secret that BiH is one of my favourite countries in the world, and I really hope you’ll make the visit to discover why.

      Ten adventure activities in Bosnia and Herzegovina

      Don’t get me wrong, there are many reasons to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina beyond the unspoilt nature, but if you’re addicted to adrenaline or craving fresh mountain air with a touch of history and culture thrown in, then perhaps this Balkan nation should be your next adventure holiday. Here’s what to expect.

      White water rafting in Bosnia and Herzegovina

      1.White water rafting on crystal clear waters

      What better place to start your Bosnia and Herzegovina adventure than in my favourite small town of the Balkans: Konjic?

      Lining the riverbanks that cut through Konjic are a handful of guest houses and a couple of beautiful mosques. Yet, just moments away along the Neretva River, you’ll find raging white water rapids that then relax into tranquil waters. The waters are so clear you can see the bottom and so clean, I’d say it’s drinkable.

      Visit Konjic has fast become one of the premier adventure activity suppliers in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and I highly recommend the half-day rafting with a BBQ lunch en route. You’ll enjoy a mix of adrenaline and relaxation, and the views on the way down the river back to Konjic are seriously dreamy, as these photos prove.

      2.Skiing without breaking the bank

      Bosnia and Herzegovina is, in my opinion, a fantastic ski destination for numerous reasons.

      One, the nearest ski resort to Sarajevo, is just over 40 minutes drive away. Two, the cost is a lot more palatable here than in central Europe. This makes it appealing for both those who want to hit the slopes and those who just want a snowy mountain air getaway.

      The two largest resorts in the county are Jahorina and Bjelasnica, hitting a peak altitude of around 2000 metres.

      Hike to the historic ethnic village of Lukimor

      3.Mountain hiking and ethnic villages

      The mountains throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina are jaw-droppingly magnificent, and I found them to be surprisingly devoid of hikers even in the summer.

      Sticking to the semi-beaten path is the best idea here, though, as landmines are still being discovered in parts of the country. A tragic reminder of the nation’s relatively recent past. If you want to really work your boots out, hire a local guide to enjoy the best roots.

      Again, I went with Visit Konjic along the route through Lukomir, one of the last remaining ethnic villages in the country. Not far from Sarajevo, the simple stone houses and farming way of life in the mountains offer an insight into a more traditional way of life.

      4.Cycling across borders and ancient train lines

      The CIRO cycling route is an impressive project, and I’m seriously surprised it hasn’t had more coverage in European news.

      The old Austria-Hungarian railway, which ran through the country, is long gone. But the route it followed now links Mostar with Dubrovnik in neighbouring Croatia. If you don’t want to pedal across the two borders, you should aim to do at least part of the route, which takes you past hidden gems and stunning countryside.

      My personal favourite part of the cycling trail runs through Zavala. You can likely count the population here on one hand, but the old train station has been converted into a boutique B&B and between the monastery on the hill, incredible star gazing, local wine and the Vjetrenica caves, it makes for a great overnight cycle stop.

      Inside the caves in Zavala

      5.Exploring caves with unique biology

      Located in Zavala, the Vjetrenica caves are a must-visit if you find yourself travelling nearby.

      The Vjetrencia caves are the largest in the country, stretching over 7000 metres into the rock face, but with only around 2000 metres open to the public. The formations of these caves have a few important qualities. Firstly, the chimney-like holes throughout the caves create a micro-ecosystem and constant breeze and wind, while unique wildlife, such as the ‘human fish’ with four legs, lives in the cave’s waters.

      6.Canyoning lesser explored lands

      During the summer months, the Rakitnica River plays host to groups of adventure lovers who want to head Canyoning into its rocky waters.

      Heading off from the village of Kašići, you can float along the angry waves through tiny rocky gaps and canyons. Professional gear and guides are a must here.

      The deep rocky gorges, with green mossy sides, make for an epic setting, and while the water is reasonably cold all year round, a wet suit and a sense of adrenaline will keep the chills away.

      Dare to take a jump from the Stari Most into the river?

      7.Crazy bridge jumping in the name of tradition

      Mosta’s famed Stari Most, the old bridge, which was reconstructed around twenty years ago, plays host to a pretty unique tradition.

      For hundreds of years, young men have taken the nearly 25-metre leap from the top of the bridge with the intention of impressing girls. Nowadays, that tradition has subsided, and you’ll more often see people taking the jump for money, with hat collections taking place before locals plunge into the water below.

      For those who are brave enough, you can take on this (dangerous) Mostar bridge jump yourself. The Mostar Diving Club can provide assistance and training before the jump, given some people cause serious injury, and deaths have been reported, doing this under local supervision is obviously recommended. While it will be over in moments, it’s a pretty cool adrenaline rush and story to remember your trip to Mostar by and perhaps even with adding to your Croatia itinerary as a detour.

      8.Mountain Biking epic landscapes

      Taking it a level up from the more casual CIRO cycling route, those who want a bit of an adventure challenge can explore the mountains of Bosnia and Herzegovina on more heavy-hitting bikes.

      There are plenty of places to head Mount Biking, popular locations include Bitovinja and Zlatar, although the route around Bjelašnica and the village of Lukomir I mentioned above is perhaps one of the most scenic in the country and also blends in that cultural and historical touch.

      The stunning Kravica waterfalls

      9.Tubing, boating and jet skiing

      With so many incredible lakes, rivers and waterfalls in Bosnia and Herzegovina, you can tailor your adventure activities to suit your level of chill or thrill.

      Kravica Waterfall provides a relaxing setting to lounge around in the water, while Scit Lake, with its monastery in the middle, is a gorgeous spot to hire one of the few local Jet Skis.

      Seriously, road-tripping this country will take you through many unbelievably coloured water spots, so although the coastline of Neum is tiny in Bosnia and Herzegovina, water adventures are most certainly in.

      10.Skydiving at Banja Luka

      If you fancy taking to the skies and getting an aerial view of Bosnia and Herzegovina, there are a few places you can do this.

      One of the most popular is Banja Luka skydiving club, and given the spectacular countryside you’ll be high above, it is not surprising.

      The club has been around for decades and was where the first skydive in Bosnia and Herzegovina took place. Your jump will provide a birds-eye view of the lush green countryside and multi-coloured hues of greens and blues from the many lakes throughout the mountains.

      Continue the adventure across the border to Montenegro

      Bonus: Continue the canyon road trip to Montenegro

      If you are road-tripping through the Balkans, I highly recommend continuing your journey to Montenegro, especially the stunning north of the country. Shortly across the border is Pluzine, and the route linking the two countries takes in some stunning rafting locations, including the impressive Tara Canyon.

    2. Northern Spain Food Tour with Intrepid Travel

      Northern Spain Food Tour with Intrepid Travel

      Spain is a country renowned worldwide for its perfectly crafted cuisine, fresh seasonal produce and passionate chefs who can take the simplest of ingredients and turn them into a mouth-watering journey for your taste buds.

      It’s also home to the Ultimate Eatlist number one, pintxos in Donostia in San Sebastián, a culinary gem found in the Basque Country. But with each region and province serving up their own tasty local treats, to tick off all the 13 Spanish foodie experiences featured, you’ll have to take a journey across the country. And, who wouldn’t want to eat their way from paella to pintxos or tapas to Torta de Santiago anyway? This was one trip I couldn’t wait to get my teeth into!

      Intrepid Travel Food Tour

      No matter what destination my food tour of North Spain went to, nearly every morning began at the market. With fresh, seasonal produce being the focus here, and local ingredients and flavours prevailing, a trip to the market is much more than a shop, it’s a social exercise in itself.

      In Barcelona, Sarah, who would later cook us up some Catalonian treats in her home, guided us through a few of the local markets to meet her suppliers, or should I say, friends. The community bonds between those who sell and buy at these markets are genuine, and the community seems to be at the heart of the culinary culture throughout the country. Celebrating the market culture of Spain, at number 23 on the Ultimate Eatlist, is Barcelona’s La Boqueria market, which is by far one of the most visited by tourists. This bustling pit stop on La Rambla is a buzz of bars, stalls and samplers, and a great introduction before hunting out some of the smaller markets throughout the city.

      A home-cooked meal in Barcelona

      Logrono is at the heart of La Rioja, and as such, it’s a wine-lovers destination, especially during the San Mateo festival, which blissfully coincided with our visits. The streets were electric with music, glasses of fine red wines clinked together in squares, and we worked our way through countless bars on a ‘tapas-crawl’, the more foodie and refined way of having a bar-crawl.

      Not happy with just sampling these local wines, we headed to Laguardia, a well-preserved medieval town, to see them at their source. Over 240 tunnels run underneath this walled town, and many of these are wine cellars or production areas. Climbing down the stairs of one Bodega, where the wine is still traditionally pressed by foot, we sampled both old and young Riojas in the very cellar they aged in.

      Narrow streets of stone in Laguardia

      Topping the Ultimate Eatlist are pintxos in San Sebastián; small and delicious, these flavoursome treats come in many forms. From the simple and tasty mini-skewer combination of olive, anchovy and pepper known as the ‘Gilda’, the most traditional pintxo, to intriguing ingredients piled high on bread, this is a dining delight that involves multiple flavours.

      Don’t mistake pintxos for tapas, though; these tiny bites are mainly to be found in the Basque Region and aren’t to be confused with the traditionally free bar snacks of tapas which are served in other parts of Spain. Pintxos are ordered and paid for individually and aren’t just an accompaniment to a drink; they are the star attraction and a social dining experience.

      The best way to enjoy pintxos in San Sebastián is by taking to the buzzing streets of the old town where countless bar-tops are piled-high with numerous variations, from tooth-pick based stacks to mini-sandwiches.

      This is social dining at its very best, and the crowds from the bars spill out onto terrace tables, street stools, beautiful plazas and even church stairs to enjoy the atmosphere of dining in this culinary city. Don’t start your editable escapade too early, though; 9 pm is about the earliest to hit the streets if you want to enjoy your pintxos with a slice of social buzz in one of Europe’s best food cities. You should be expecting to be eating and drinking for much of your evening in the old town. Is there any better excuse for a mid-afternoon siesta?

      Pintxos on a bar in San Sebastian

      While you can grab a plate and quickly fill it with the tempting and delectable bites before you, do as the locals do and take yourself on a bar-hopping adventure. This way, you can sample various treats in different bars. Order a glass of the local wine, Txakoli, and enjoy the theatre of the skilled bartenders pouring it from a height, which increases the bubbles in the glass, before sampling a small selection of the bar-top snacks or blackboard specials.

      It’s easy to miss the specialities on the blackboards, which are usually cooked fresh, unlike the spread on the counter, but be sure to ask the bartender what their best dish is and order away. Whether it is battered white asparagus or mushrooms soaking in garlic, make sure you leave space to enjoy the warm dishes. While we were in Bilbao, we continued our indulgence on the Pintxos after exploring the impressive Guggenheim museum.

      There is no denying that San Sebastián is a breathtaking beach destination, especially the views overlooking the bay from the top of Mount Igueldo, a tremendous post-pintxo burn off the hike or easily accessed by funicular.

      But there is a lot more to this destination than meets the eye, especially for those with a real passion for food. There are around 150 gastronomic societies in San Sebastián, think members social clubs but for cooking and sharing culinary creativity, where family get-togethers occur or locals spend time in the communal kitchen. Members of these societies have their own key and can access it at any time of day, and I was lucky enough to spend a morning with local Chef Ben, who showed us around these often hidden-away foodie clubs and taught me how to cook local specialties. If you find yourself in San Sebastián, then try and sample the society experience yourself.

      Northern Spain’s mountains and lakes offer a more less developed and nature-connecting experience

      Leaving the beautiful cuisine of the Basque Country behind is hard, but when you are heading to the stunning mountains of the Picos de Europa National Park next, you’ll quickly be blown away by the transformation of the scene around you.

      As we drove through breathtaking mountains littered with goats and caramel cows preciously grazing on the steep inclines, the tiny village of Cosgaya was to be our home for the night. The perfect warm-up to the delicious Cocido leaning, a hearty stew we would feast on that night, would come in the form of a hike through the quaint village and impeccable alpine views.

      With one of the oldest markets in Spain greeting us the next morning, the charming streets of Potes and the friendly vendors of the food stalls had us quickly sorted for a rich picnic of local snacks, all rounded off with glasses of wine and against a stunning backdrop and monastery.

      The traditional Asturian sidra pour

      Cheeses and ciders are a must when in Asturias, and we had ample opportunity to sample both. From the tiny local restaurant in the mountains to the aptly nick-named cider street in Oviedo, the homemade brews aren’t too sweet, but Cider Sangria is an apt pick for those with a sweeter tooth.

      Our adventure continued to underground caves, where one of the country’s most famous cheeses is produced. Queso de Cabrales (D.O.P.) is a strong blue cheese and while the taste might not be to everyone’s fancy, the traditional method of production using the humidity of the caves is fascinating. In the small, tight-knit communities where it is produced, you’ll find stories of years gone by and authentic outfits and tools on display. Completely stuffed from the whirlwind of an adventure so far, the spotless city of Oviedo provided the perfect base to relax, digest and of course, sample more of that famous cider!

      A Coruña, Spain

      Venturing to Galicia, a region famed for its seafood and fish, we visited the largest city, A Coruna for a delicious meal of mussels and squid direct from the fish market.

      Like any incredible journey though, mine sadly had to end. And against the impressive backdrop of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, I dived into my last Ultimate Eatlist tick, the almond based Tarta de Santiago. Coming in at number 272 it was the perfect sweet treat to bid my farewells to Spain. With another 487 foodie experiences left on the list, it was on to the next adventure (and meal) for me.

    3. Escape to the lakes of Valsugana, Italy’s water sport heaven

      Escape to the lakes of Valsugana, Italy’s water sport heaven

      I was mesmerised by Lake Levico the second I saw it. It was like a postcard from New Zealand or Canada, a pristine lake with mirror-like reflections of the towering mountains and lush-green trees surrounding it. The type of postcard you just assume has been photoshopped because it looks so beautiful. But, it wasn’t photoshopped and I wasn’t in a far-flung land, I was just a couple of hours from home in Northern Italy.

      Valsugana, an award-winning lake land which forms part of the Trentino region in Italy was nothing short of breathtaking. Hiking through mountains and breathing in fresh air, kayaking across still waters, gorging on gelato at the lake-side beaches and discovering tiny thermal spa towns were just a few of the many highlights during my weekend escape.

      Lake Levico in Valsugana

      ‘Valsugana, you don’t know Valsugana, let’s talk about Valsugana’, I feel like I’ve said the word countless times since I returned, always to bemused faces that have no idea what I’m talking about. ‘Type it into Instagram’ I follow up with which usually ends in peoples holiday-plans changing as they gawp at some of mother-natures most excellent work.

      If you want a mountain escape full of watersports, tranquil settings and all that Italian food then, my friends, you need to get your butts here pronto!

      The magic starts from Sunrise

      With just a handful of inquisitive ducks for company, I waded myself and my tripod into Lake Caldonazzo. I’d heard the sunrises were magical in these mountains and with such a pristine and serene lake to capture the start of the day at I knew the early-morning wake-up call was going to be worth every ounce of Italian espresso I would need afterwards.

      As the sun peaked over the mountain tops and a golden glow illuminated the tranquil scene around me, my heart jumped before I felt a pang of something I hadn’t felt in a long time; loneliness.

      Travelling solo doesn’t bother me usually, I love the freedom it allows me to explore on my own time, but very occasionally something happens. A unique, magical moment that I want to share with somebody, hand in hand, and talk about for years to come. I had to settle for a slightly creepy chat with a not-so-responsive duck, but that day-break in Valsuagana really was something special.

      Watersport’s are a huge part of Valsugana

      Watersports are a way of life

      If you head to the lakes of Valsugana and don’t partake in some kind of watersport, you are doing yourself a serious misjustice. Whether you want to lazily slow paddle with a kayak, get yourself onboard the SUP bandwagon or make a complete tit out of yourself at water skiing (hiya!), there is a whole range of activities on offer.

      I spent my days enjoying the powerful winds which can suddenly appear and send your sailing boat hurtling along to trying out new activities such as water skiing. I also finally mastered SUP with Francesco at Lake Levico following my first lesson earlier this year, accompanied by a cyclone, in Mauritius. It’s worth noting that only Lake Caldonzza allows fast-paced boating activities such as water-skiing which leaves other lakes through Valsugana and Trentino much more peaceful.

      Your taste buds are going to get tantalised

      If you suffer from the same diagnosis as I, Gelato induced weight gain, then a visit to Bellavista where vast bowls of delicious home-made gelato drowning in cream, sauces and all those other healthy food categories come together is a must. Ideally, more than once.

      Throughout the Valsugana region though you can find local specialities such as Canederli, lots of fresh seafood including river trout, ample supplies of the Italian essentials from pizza and pasta through to Burrata, another of my foodie addictions.

      Around Lake Caldonaazo where I was sleeping/having early-morning dates with ducks, La Taverna and Riviera Calceranica al Lago served up some fantastic meals which were perfectly rounded off with semifreddo. You kind of have to visit this country with the belief that what calories happen in Italy stay in Italy, but like the Las Vegas stories that you always hear in secret years later, my waistline post trip confirms it’s just not true.

      The beaches are popular with locals all day

      Lakes for days and blue flag beaches

      The two lakes of Valsugana provide a perfect contrast and can keep you entertained for days. While Caldonazzo offers up more in terms of dining, activities and beaches, Levico delivers that tranquil movie like set to relax by or indeed on.

      The beaches are open for swimming from May through to September, and even if you don’t want to stray from the shore, the lazy-walks around the lakes and lidos provide for the most relaxed of escapes.

      Amazingly enough, the beaches around Levico and Caldonazzo have been awarded blue flag status. And yes, I was equally as surprised that lakes could win this accolade. This award celebrates both the cleanliness and quality of the water as well as the beaches amenities. With lifeguards in the summer months and plenty of services on offer, it turns out lake-side beaches, something I hadn’t considered for a spot of sunbathing before, can actually be just as lovely as an escape to the coast.

      Small cute towns compliment the lakes

      Little towns and thermal spas

      Throughout the Valsugana region, you can find tiny villages and beautiful small towns which are ideal for lazy walks past colourful buildings and quaint churches and can quickly provide ample Instagram spam. Health and wellness are also significant on the menu here and one of the main reasons those in the know come to escape the stress of day-to-day life in these mountains.

      Even at my accommodation, Energy Hotel Calceranica, a new wellness area had been installed, and numerous thermal spas can be found throughout the region with Levico and Vetriolo being some of the most notable.

      With the fresh mountain air, the soothing spirit of getting out on the water and plenty of outside activities to get lost in this really was the perfect place to work off those extra gelatos!

      When it comes to which towns and villages to spend your afternoons exploring, Levico Terme was without a doubt my favourite. With accommodation around the lake, ranging from luxury spa hotels to water-side camping, a short stroll into the town takes you through small streets; a flower-filled park, grand architecture and a selection of delicious restaurants.

      For those with a bit more time a detour then you could head to the small village of Bieno, providing spectacular views, or Samone, a sleepy spot full of orchards that gives a truly tranquil escape.

      The towering mountains glow at sunset

      Getting lost in the mountains

      If you haven’t exhausted yourself from eating all the food all those water sports, then a mountain expedition should be next on your agenda. Whether you opt for the challenging hikes which provide some incredible panoramas of both the lakes in the valley or prefer to venture off on two-wheels, Valsugana is essentially one of the most beautiful gyms in Europe.

      A range of paths and trails cut across the mountains rising from the lakes and even if you just want a leisurely stroll with some impressive viewpoints, Valsugana will oblige. Well equipped to handle tourism for outside adventures specialist, bike rest areas, stores and repair points can be found across the trails.

      Views from Buonconsiglio Castle in Trento

      Perfectly paired with a Trento city break

      Don’t let your escape to Trentino end at the lakes though and make sure to spend a couple of days in the regions capital city of Trento before or after your getaway.

      The cobbled streets of the city were spotless, and the impressive Buonconsiglio Castle, galleries and outside frescos provide enough culture without being overwhelming. Spend your days turning down little alleyways, grabbing drinks in the main square under the impressive cathedral and just enjoying being in a city where the locals seemed as excited to be there as I did.

      Paring a few days of Valusganas lake-side escapism with the cultural things to do in Trento makes for an unforgettable visit to Trentino, my new favourite region in Italy.

    4. 48 Hours in Cuenca, Spain: More than a Madrid day trip

      48 Hours in Cuenca, Spain: More than a Madrid day trip

      Hurtling across the mountains of Spain on high-speed rail, the last rays of a winter sun were bouncing off the rolling green landscape. In under an hour I would be transported from the teeming tapas bars of Madrid to the laid-back, medieval vibes of Cuenca. While many would make this journey as a day trip from Madrid, I was excited to spend a weekend in Cuenca soaking up every little corner of its soul as part of a seven day Spain itinerary between Madrid and Valencia.

      Famed for the Casas Colgadas, which translates to hanging house, the old city of Cuenca deserves its UNESCO World heritage status. As I strolled across the San Pablo bridge, with the stars and moon illuminating the sky above me, I felt like I was stepping back in time.

      Two days later, when the moment would come to leave Cuenca, it felt bizarre to return to the modern world. From the pastel-hued houses on Plaza Mayor to the hours I spent admiring the sunset from the castle ruins, Cuenca was the perfect 48-hour escape from reality and one of my favourite, slightly more off-the-beaten-path Spain spots!

      Getting to Cuenca, Spain

      Arriving in Cuenca, Spain, is relatively fast and affordable. Whether you drive or use public transport, coming to Cuenca from Madrid can be done in under an hour.

      You can quickly get to the out-of-town station of Cuenca AVE (Fernando Zobel) in under an hour by high-speed rail, or a slower and slightly cheaper train service goes directly to the new part of the city, which is the station simply named Cuenca – you might want to study the basics and learn Spanish online before your trip.

      From Fernando Zobel, a new terminal specifically built for high-speed rail, a bus, at €2.15, will take you to the heart of the old city in under 30 minutes. A similar timed walk or 15-minute ride will take you from the central Cuenca station to Plaza Mayor.

      The city of Cuenca is split into two parts. ‘ New’ Cuenca, where the stations and many stores are, sits underneath the shadow of old Cuenca, both literally and figuratively. While the new part of Cuenca is nice enough, the main attractions and hidden gems of the city are atop the rocks that support the hanging houses, and for this 48-hour guide to Cuenca, that will be the focus.

      Checking in to Posada San Jose

      When securing your accommodation, be mindful of the old and new parts of the city. I highly recommend you stay in the old city, as the sunsets and after-dark atmosphere are magical.

      I researched many different choices and eventually settled on Posada San Jose (pictured above), mainly sold by the reviews promising fantastic views, and I certainly wasn’t disappointed. While premium rooms with balconies are a little pricer, I booked a double room with a shared bathroom for €30 a night (in December 2018). For the chance to sleep in such a historic building as this, once a convent and then a choirboys school, it seemed a very fair price.

      The rooms were immaculate, if a little dated, but this all added to the charm. From crooked wooden beams to the slight creeks of the staircase, the maze-like interior was charming. Of course, the main highlight though is the views from the restaurant or balcony, so be sure to have breakfast or dinner here, or both, which I highly recommend.

      Nighttime views of Cuenca

      First evening marvelling at the hanging houses

      With the sun already set and my stomach already lined on arrival, I set out to scope the land. My go-to first activity on a weekend escape anywhere, it’s my first suggestion for 48 hours in Cuenca.

      With the daytrippers gone and likely fewer tourists in the off-season, this hidden gem in Europe felt magical in the dark.

      The city is perched on limestone rocks and seems to rise above both the rivers on either side dramatically, the Júcar and Huécar. The hanging houses do indeed seem to dangle over the gorge, but there is only a handful of these left to admire. For the first evening, I suggest enjoying the views from across the iron San Pablo bridge, then dipping into one of the bars on Plaza Mayor for a nightcap before an early night, ready for a (hopefully) awesome sunrise.

      Day One in Cuenca, Spain

      Starting the day right, the light clouds that hung in the air suddenly were illuminated with dramatic shades of pinks and oranges as the sun rose behind the mountain, as yet not in view.

      At 8 a.m. on a December morning, I felt like the king of the castle, as not a single other soul was to be seen. I scurried around the old town looking for the best viewpoint. For sunrise, I highly recommend taking a short walk from Posada San Jose to the castle ruins. From here, you can enjoy a breathtaking sunrise as Cuenca slowly starts to bathe in the golden glow.

      After a café con leche and breakfast at the hotel, where the view is equally impressive and a front-facing balcony bedroom might be the perfect place to enjoy a lazy sunrise, it was time to start putting together this weekend’s itinerary in Cuenca.

      Hanging Houses of Cuenca

      10.30 – The Casas Colgadas and Abstract Art Gallery

      While in days gone by, these hanging houses with their wooden balconies would have lined much of the city’s cliffs, now just a few remain to one side of the San Pablo bridge. For many, these are the main draw to the city, but I must say, while impressive, they wouldn’t be reason enough for me to venture to Cuenca. The city and atmosphere, though, provide countless other reasons to venture here.

      Once you’ve got your photos of the Casas Colgados, the gallery space inside opens at 11 a.m., so you can actually venture into these historic houses.

      As with much of Spain, many places open later and then close for siestas. As such, I’ve added some rough times to this 48-hour guide to Cuenca, hopefully allowing you to make the most of the day. The city is relatively compact, so doubling back on yourself really isn’t a big deal here.

      Inside the abstract art gallery is a beautifully appointed space, and apparently, a considerable amount of time was dedicated to converting the rooms into a gallery. The perfect balance of white walls and original features complements the collection of Spanish Abstract Art, and while you can’t get onto the hanging balconies, you can see them from the large glass windows.

      12:00 – St. Pablo Bridge to Parador de Cuenca

      Another of Cuenca’s iconic features is the iron and wooden bridge of St. Pablo, which has ferried people across the gorge for over 100 years. When you cross, you can really appreciate the magnificent views of the hanging houses. You can also visit the Parador de Cuenca.

      12:30 – Espacio Torner

      Attached as part of the 16th-century Parador de Cuenca is the St Pablo Church. As with many of the historic buildings across the city, a new breath of life has been given to this restored building. Now, it is a gallery space, and it’s worth visiting even if you aren’t interested in the art, merely to see the old gothic structure inside.

      The art space is dedicated to displaying the work of Gustavo Torner, who is an artist from Cuenca. While the collection isn’t huge, the area is well laid out, and the imposing high ceilings amplify the collection.

      13:30 – Lunch at Parador de Cuenca

      For those who don’t mind a little splurge, you might actually decide to stay in the Parador de Cuenca. The Parador collection spans Spain, and many of these impressive old buildings have been converted into high-end hotels.

      For those who aren’t staying, you can still go inside and admire the impressive repurposing of this 16th-century monastery, and the fancy restaurants is the perfect place to enjoy some lunch in redefined luxury.

      15:30 Ruins of the Castle of Cuenca

      The ruins of Cuenca Castle, constructed in the 8th century, are a reminder of the city’s Moorish history.

      Ruins is a very loose word here, as little remains of the old Arabian wall that surrounded the city, nor of the Christian Fortress which followed. You can find a few turrets and some parts of the wall, all nearby the well-preserved entrance arch and wall to the city.

      The sun sets on Cuenca

      Sunset followed by Dinner

      As I was visiting Cuenca during winter, the days were shorter, and it was quickly time for sunset. If you are here in the summer months, when the days are longer, there are plenty of other things to do in Cuenca during the daylight hours to fill your 48-hour visit with.

      For sunset, I urge you to walk along from the Castle Ruins and skip out on the viewing platforms. Instead, take a prime position on top of the karst mountains in their unique shapes, but please, don’t get too near the edge! From here, you’ll see the sun slowly dip behind the hanging houses and the city of Cuenca, and the lights start to illuminate and dance across the historic buildings.

      As the sky turned from orange to pink and then to the most incredible shade of purple, I lost all sense of time admiring the views and taking far too many photos of this postcard-perfect hidden gem. With the sun setting early and dinner a late affair in Cuenca, I returned to the colourful buildings of the Plaza Mayor to enjoy a pre-dinner drink.

      When it comes to dining in Spain, you are always in for a treat, with each region boasting its own speciality dishes.

      I enjoyed two evening meals during my visit to Cuenca and will list them both here in case either inspire you for dining.

      The first was at my hotel, Posada San Jose, which also welcomes reservations and dinners from non-guests. If you secure a window or balcony table, you’ll be able to enjoy the impressive views as per breakfast. Secondly, the friendly staff and affordable menu offer the perfect opportunity to sample some of the local dishes.

      I opted for the mixed platter of Cuenca cuisine, which showcased some of the best-known dishes in the Castilla-La Mancha region. These included Ajo arriero, which is a cod, potato and garlic mix, Morteruelo, a rich and warm game pate, and my favourite, the tomato, pepper and courgette roasted goodness of Pisto Manchego.

      My second dinner was another one of Spain’s specialities, pork, and I enjoyed it at Restaurante El Secreto, which has two venues in the old city. While the food was delicious, the service was indifferent, though I think this was due to being a solo dinner with limited Spanish from viewing other tables in the room.

      This is a part of Spain where English isn’t so common, which I love, but with just basic Spanish to get by with, I did find myself using Google translate, especially when trying to book tours, to understand what was on offer fully.

      Hiking in Cuenca, Spain

      Day two in Cuenca

      My second day in Cuenca didn’t exactly go to plan. I was meant to join a tour of the nearby Ciudad Encantada, a park consisting of various karst limestone mountains. Being winter, and with the rain rolling in, this didn’t go ahead.

      That said, I ended up having a fantastic day and here is what I got up to.

      8:00 Head hiking along the river

      With sunrise already seen across the gorge, I descended to the other side of the city and the Júcar river. Here, multiple hiking trails of varying difficulties provide ample opportunities to marvel at the glowing green river.

      It wasn’t until I was hiking along here that I really appreciated the scale and impressive architecture of the city. From down alongside the Júcar river, you can’t help but look upwards and marvel at the city built onto the sheer rock face.

      People were rock climbing and abseiling on the rock faces either side, and faces are quite literal thanks to the eyes painted towards the top. On the other side of the city, there is another hike that will take you to the Jesus statue looking down on Cuenca and provide some incredible views of the city. This gives you two different options when strapping on those walking boots.

      The colours of Cuenca

      11:00 Fundación Museo de la Semana Santa de Cuenca

      Returning to Cuenca, I slipped into one of the many museums in the city, this time one dedicated to Spain’s celebration of Easter.

      Having been lucky enough to be in Seville this year for Semana Santa, I was quite intrigued to learn more about this celebration of holy week in Spain, and the small museum filled me in.

      12:00 Mangana Tower

      Close by the museum is the Mangana Tower, one of Cuenca’s many monuments that marks the spot of the old Arabian fortress.

      It is one of the city’s most notable monuments. It lies on the site of an ancient Arabian fortress. Built in the 16th century, the tower is in excellent condition. You can explore the small ruins of the fort, which also has a few houses in a similar style to the hanging houses nearby, although without the cliff faces.

      12:30 Plaza Mayor

      The colourful houses, town hall, and Cuenca Cathedral dominate Plaza Mayor, which is a central hub in the old part of the city.

      With many restaurants and cafes both on the square and the small cobbled streets leading off it, grab some lunch here before heading into the famous Cuenca Cathedral

      14:00 Cuenca Cathedral

      While traversing Europe, you can get a little bored of Cathedrals and Churches, and while I was tempted to sit this one out, I’m so glad I coughed up the modest entrance and conservation fee.

      The Cuenca Cathedral is grand and was one of the earliest examples of a building in the Gothic style of Spain.

      Constructed in the 12th century, it sits on the same spot a Mosque had hundreds of years before. Inside, you will find the imposing towers of the main hall, basking in the colourful light of the stained-glass windows. Leading off from the main hall are many smaller rooms, each with its own style and unique decoration.

      The building work, both inside and out, has been ongoing since the day the Cathedral opened, which is why there is such a range of styles ranging from neo-Gothic to Baroque. This is evident from the outside but even more so in the smaller rooms. In the courtyard outside and from the terrace of the Cathedral, you’ll find some equally impressive panorama views. For those who are interested, there are also special nighttime tours of the Cathedral where I imagine the illuminations to add another dimension.

      16:00 Colourful houses of Alfonso VIII Street

      As my weekend visit to Cuenca was coming to an end, I decided to walk back to the new part of the city rather than take the bus. The brightly coloured Alfonso VIII street winds down the mountain, and the various shades of houses make for a fantastic photo opportunity.

      This street also has a hidden set of passages, called the Alfonso Tunnels and while they were closed during my visit.

      Having completely fallen in love with Cuenca, reemerging to the modern world was a sad shock to the system, and just an hour later, I was transported back to Madrid. Cuenca is the perfect-sized city break, and combining the old-world charm of the cobbled streets with the beautiful nature surrounding the city ticked all the boxes for me.

    5. Must Visit Places on a Scotland Road Trip

      Must Visit Places on a Scotland Road Trip

      Scotland is a land of lochs, castles, and epic landscapes, all served up with the warm welcome and charm of the locals who call this magical land home. I feel like a traitor being an English boy, but if you are looking for a stunning road trip in the UK, then Scotland should be your first port of call.

      My road trip in Scotland took me from the country’s festival city of Edinburgh to the rugged landscapes of the Isle of Skye, here are some of my favourite spots you shouldn’t miss during your one-week visit to Scotland.

      Take a quick video tour of all the places I visited on my Scotland road trip, including the Isle of Skye and discover some of the best UK adventure holidays you can have.

      1.The Devil’s Pulpit

      The Devil’s Pulpit, as it’s officially nicknamed, or Finnich Glen, is just a short drive from Glasgow and still a relatively unvisited spot. It’s not the easiest place to find, but the blood-red waters, moss-covered caves, and countryside walk to get there make it a good spot while heading away from the city. Be warned: the path down is slippy, but for the more adventurous, you can put on a wetsuit and walk in through the river.

      2.Loch Lomond

      Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park is a stunning area where you can spend a lazy afternoon in the Scottish sunshine (I promise it occasionally happens!)

      The quaint villages with small houses and colourful flowerbeds around the lake provide car parking opportunities, and packing a picnic to have lakeside is a must. For hikers or cyclists, the trails around the lake are relatively flat compared to the highlands, and with deer dancing around the woodlands, it’s a picturesque spot to take in without exerting too much energy.

      Cute houses in the village of Luss, Loch Lomond

      3.Loch Awe / Kilchurn Castle

      If you catch Loch Awe on a still day, the ruins of Kilchurn Castle make for an epic reflection shot. It’s a short walk from the road to the edge of the lake, but thanks to the mountains, ducks, and castle, it is one of my favourite places to photograph in the country. The loch has a few islands within it, such as Inishail, and I’m determined to get back here with a SUP and enjoy a lazy day photographing.

      4.Glencoe

      The small village of Glencoe is most famous for the Glencoe Valley, a must-visit during a Scotland road trip to the highlands. One of the most impressive filming locations of James Bond Skyfall is, not surprisingly, one of the most famous valleys in the country now.

      Find a place to park the car and take a hike through the valley, where waterfalls roll down the mountain, and the views will leave you in complete awe.

      Driving through Glencoe is a highlight of the trip

      5.Glenfinnan

      Another famous movie set, the Glenfinnan viaduct, is the Harry Potter route to wizarding school, and you may even want to pause your Scotland road trip to jump on the famous Jacobite train that runs along here. Just next to the viaduct at Loch Shiel is the Glenfinnan monument, which honours those from the Jacobite rising.

      6.Dunrobin Castle

      One of the most beautiful castles to visit on a Scotland road trip is Dunrobin Castle on the east coast. This stately home is open to the public, and from the grounds, at the back, you get a far more impressive view of the white castle with its pointed roofs. It’s a little bit of a detour unless you plan to go north on your Scotland road trip, but one that is entirely worthwhile.

      Like a fairytale, Dunrobin Castle

      7.Morar and Arisaig, Scotland

      When you think of Scotland, it likely isn’t beaches that come to your mind. With the Atlantic Ocean on your doorstep, views across some of Scotland’s smallest islands and azure waters against silver sands, this is a true hidden gem in Europe.

      Nearby Mallaig is the starting point for ferries and the terminus for one very famous train journey. On the west coast of the Highlands, you can get in some great R&R and enjoy the slow village pace here before continuing on your Scottish road trip. Arisaig is a great spot to hire a Kayak and get that fresh Scottish air into your lungs on the water.

      8.Elgin Cathedral

      The ruins of Elgin Cathedral in north-east Scotland are a comfortable detour from Inverness and given the age of the cathedral (1224) what does remain is in reasonably good condition. You can climb up the towers for an aerial view to really appreciate the scale of the cathedral. Within the town, you have a few more attractions and things to do in Elgin, as well as accommodation should you wish to make it an overnight stop.

      9.Loch Ness / Inverness

      The city of Inverness surprised me and was a great half-day stop on my Scotland road trip. Grab some food here and visit the Cathedral and Castle before continuing to one of Scotland’s most famous sights, Loch Ness.

      Famed for the Loch Ness Monster, there is even a museum/theme park dedicated to her, which would be an ideal road trip pit-stop with kids. Beyond the myths, though, this is a beautiful part of the country to set up camp and enjoy the walks along the lake.

      Picturesque Fort Augustus on the Loch Ness

      10.Eagle Brae Cabins

      Just a forty-five-minute drive from Inverness, you’ll find the stunning and remote Eagle Brae log cabins, one of the more unusual places to stay in Scotland.

      Situated in the Scottish Highlands, this is a fantastic escape and the ideal spot to base yourself for a couple of days of getting away and connecting with nature. The Cabins are packed with mod-cons and everything you need, although they still have a charmingly old-school vibe and a fantastic view to catch the sunset.

      With deer strolling around, hikes on your doorstep and the chance to be at one with Scotland’s most exceptional nature, this is one of the most unique and exclusive accommodation options you could stay in.

      Sunset at Eagle Brae

      11.Edinburgh

      It’s a given that on any visit to Scotland, you shouldn’t miss the capital city of Edinburgh. If you are lucky enough to visit during August, then Edinburgh Festivals will be in full spring, but the Edinburgh events calendar is year-round, with 12 official big festivals in Edinburgh throughout the year, plus plenty of smaller ones.

      It’s by far one of my favourite cities in the world, and you should check out my article on things to do in Edinburgh to get the most out of your visit to the city.

      12.Glasgow

      Scotland’s second city, Glasgow, is somewhere I have a soft spot for. I spent a few months working in this underrated city when I was in the restaurant industry and got to know the city pretty well. While it might be a bit more ‘rough around the edges’ than Edinburgh, and the accent takes a while to get used to, it’s a buzzing city and has a booming food, music and art scene with some excellent museums.

      13.Isle of Skye

      The Isle of Skye has become one of the most famous and best islands to visit in Scotland and is starting to suffer from over-tourism, especially during the summer months. While many people would, therefore, visit in the offseason, with the current situation facing the world and international tourism expected to be down for a while, it might actually make this year the perfect time for a visit while you can grab a UK staycation hotel deals, and admire this amazing spot with less crowds and the accompanying higher prices.

      The breathtaking Isle of Skye

      That said, as soon as you lay eyes on it, you will see why everyone wants to visit here on their Scotland road trip. From the beautiful fairy pools of trickling waterfalls to the colourful houses in the capital of Portree, you can easily spend a few days here in total awe of the natural beauty and varied landscapes. Get out of the car and get out hiking here because some of the most beautiful places, such as Storr Rock and mythical Fairy Glen, can’t be enjoyed through a car window. Don’t forget there are 790 islands in Scotland, so if you have more than a week for your Scotland road trip or fancy going more off the beaten path, then you really are spoilt for choice.