Author: Sampath Shanthapriya

During my recent week-long visit to Mexico City, I was privileged with the opportunity to visit six of the businesses receiving support and mentorship from a recently launched Tourism Recovery Programme.

From organic-only wine bars to agricultural experiences and tours with an indigenous twist, it quickly became apparent this was a programme loyal to its word – where small, sustainable travel and impactful local businesses were genuinely feeling the benefits.

As I met more and more passionate business owners, each with their own unique stories to tell, I was reminded of just how precious travel can be – as well as being a catalyst for change.

From Mayra, the founder of NGO Manos a la Tierra, who was now embarking on turning her conservation work into authentic tourism experiences, to Alfonso, a member of a Nopal (cactus) farming cooperative, who wanted to open the doors to travellers wishing to see behind-the-scenes of this culinary staple, each of these businesses was genuinely focused on sustainability, community and responsible tourism.

While some of them only offer day trips in Mexico City, others, such as Trueke, have a wealth of knowledge from all corners of Mexico and can create tailor-made itineraries which include the top attractions alongside authentic, traditional experiences.

If you plan a trip to Mexico City and seek sustainable tourism activities, I hope one of these companies becomes a part of your trip and brings you as much happiness as they did me.

Introducing the Tourism Recovery Programme

The aforementioned Tourism Recovery Programme, which has been supporting businesses in Mexico amongst other countries, is a perfect collaboration between tourism experts TUI Care Foundation, a separate entity to well-known TUI Holidays, and enpact, a Berlin-based organisation specialised in supporting entrepreneurs and their ecosystems in building capacity and growing their impact.

Providing networking, mentorships, and training, the programme’s reach and skills development side have been helping these local operators face the challenges of a ‘post-pandemic’ world.

As well as the training and support, an initial funds boost amounting to €9000 was supplied to nominated businesses by GIZ, a German development agency, under a commission by the German Federal Ministry for International Cooperation and Development. This allocation aimed to help the tourism companies survive the immediate impact of the pandemic in the short term, while the programme’s overall aim was to grow long-term abilities and new markets for the businesses through mentorship, training, and networking.

You can learn more about the Tourism Recovery Programme here, but for now, let me introduce you to some of these incredible businesses waiting for your visit to Mexico City.

Cacti cuisine, touring the Nopal Route with Ruta Páak’am

While many of the businesses I visited during my time in Mexico were already somewhat established in tourism, or at least volunteer space, the Ruta Páak’am team has historically worked in product production, with the Nopal (Prickly Pear Cactus) cooperative producing various delicious and healthy products in their nearby factory.

Now, through the leadership of Alfonso, they want to invite travellers to Mexico City to step outside the inner neighbourhoods and discover the Ruta Páak’am on a full-day itinerary of gastronomy and culture.

The tours begin at a newly constructed facility, where an expert in cacti delves into the details and facts about this plant species, of course focusing on the edible Nopals. There are no worries about not understanding any part of the day with a translator supplied.

After learning about all the different plants, you’ll have a chance to cut and prepare them yourself, with all the hard work accumulating in a delicious family-style cooked meal of Nopal-based dishes.

Other highlights of the tour include a visit to a nearby Mole factory in one of the most famed towns for its production and a spiritual ceremony inside the crater of an extinct volcano.

Trueke, tours with a community twist

Karen Steiner, the founder of Trueke Tours, always wants to find the balance between the top attractions and local, community-focused experiences on her tours.

With a background working at an NGO supporting communities that natural disasters have affected, Karen has built extensive connections in all corners of the country, allowing her to piece together multi-day itineraries for travellers wishing to delve a little deeper into their travels.

While I only had a day trip from Mexico City arranged by Trueke, they still managed to stay true to their word.

Following a breathtaking morning balloon flight over the ancient Teotihuacan pyramids, my driver whisked me into a tiny village. Entering a small grey door, I was greeted by Ericka and her husband Rafaela, who sat me down in their living room to enjoy a proper home-cooked meal.

While this was only a snippet of the type of local experiences Trueke offers, it gave me an idea of how personal and intimate a full tour would be. After lunch, I should have headed for a Temazcal – a sort of sweating ceremony in an igloo-shaped lodge with spiritual roots – however, this still wasn’t possible due to COVID at the time of travel.

Seeking another side of the city with Manos a la Tierra

Mayra Jiménez, the founder of Manos a la Tierra, is another inspiring leader with an impactful history working in NGOs. In fact, Manos started and still operates as an NGO, and recently, they have decided to expand into tourism offerings.

Mayra sees this as a double win; for travellers, they get to connect with the nature and communities of the country, while the funds raised from the tours will allow her conservation and ecological projects to expand at a quicker pace.

With connections and tour opportunities across the country in the pipeline, Manos a la Tierra can provide custom itineraries to travellers. For my day trip from Mexico City, I was privileged to see another side of Xochimilco. While nowadays it’s more famed for colourful trajineras boats often serenaded by Mariachi bands, historically, this UNESCO listed site’s importance started as agricultural land.

Still, to this day, the incredible Chinampa technique of using floating gardens as farmland survives. During a day inside the Protected Natural Area of San Gregorio Atlapulco, I witnessed this first-hand.

Unbelievably, I was the only tourist inside the protected area that day. Accompanied by David, a Chinampa farmer, I learned all about this historic farming method, which dates back to the Aztecs, floated down serene canals, and watched migratory birds flying high above the lakes. Needless to say, I quickly forgot I was in a metropolis like Mexico City!

Neighbourhood flavours with Sabores Mexico Food Tours & Loup Bar

I’m sure you don’t need me to tell you that the gastronomy of Mexico is some of the best in the world. However, it’s also some of the most diverse – and local, regional flavours can be hard to find in the capital city.

Enter Sabores Mexico Food Tours, who offer three different half-day tours in Mexico City, all focused on savouring the very best dishes it has to offer.

During my five hours with Grace, my fantastic guide, we traversed the Colonia Roma neighbourhood – famed for its grand buildings and fascinating history – while eating multiple dishes that each amazed me.

With a focus on small, inventive cafes and restaurants, many of which focus on lesser-known, remote regional cuisine, I took my taste buds on a journey around the country without having to walk more than a few blocks.

Learning about the neighbourhood and the city as we strolled between each restaurant was a fantastic way to prepare my stomach for more food and understand the suburb more in-depth. If you spend any time in Mexico City, you quickly realise that not only is it incredibly vast, but each neighbourhood has its own quirks, stories and style.

Another business supported by the Tourism Recovery Programme, Loup Bar, is also situated in Roma and is well worth a visit if you are in the area.

In a small and quaint wood-heavy room, a couple of steps down from the street, you’ll find an organic wine menu ranging from local Mexican reds to sparkling Italian wines and even imports from the country of Georgia.

The food menu complements the wine, focusing on organic and eco-friendly ingredients, with dishes ranging from the usual Mexican staples to French-inspired fare.

Casa Jacinta, the guest house with a creative soul

Creativity is ubiquitous in Coyoacán, a favourite neighbourhood for many beloved artists in Mexico City. Here, piano melodies seep out of windows while galleries, workshops and artisanal craft markets line the streets. Around the leafy squares, mime entertainers and buskers perform, flanked by grand architecture and cathedrals.

During my time in the city, I stayed in Casa Jacinta, a boutique guest house just moments from the main square that embodies the artistic spirit of Coyoacán inhabits every room.

Run by a family of artists, painters, writers and sculptors, this wonderful business also invests some of its profits back into fellow local artisans, allowing them to work on their own projects with financial support.

Quiet, safe, and homely, Casa Jacinta quickly became my home away from home. From the modern, light rooms decorated with the family’s artwork to the verdant, flower-framed garden perfect for reading a book, it was indeed a peaceful retreat to return to after a day exploring the city.

Tumbling waterfalls shrouded by lush rainforest, volcanic crater lakes adorned with kaleidoscopic Hindu statues, and verdant tea plantations ideal for tranquil kayaking are perhaps not the first scenes that spring to mind when you imagine this idyllic island nation. They are, however, just a few of the best places to visit in Mauritius beyond the cyan waters and silky soft white sands, which make it one of the world’s best beach destinations.

Often touted as a dream honeymoon destination, thanks to the plethora of luxury resorts and seemingly endless beaches, many overlook the other offers of one of the world’s best islands to visit.

While, for some, the irresistible cocktails crafted with local rum and warm, welcoming Indian Ocean waters are enough of a draw, there are plenty more reasons to visit Mauritius. Here are some of the best places (in my opinion) to explore and experience, whether you want to devour delicious dishes, discover the culture, or dig into some adventure-fuelled activities.

Grand Bassin (Ganga Talao)

Sitting some 500 metres above sea level and set amongst the verdant mountainous southwest, the volcanic crater lake of Ganga Talao is one of the best places to visit in Mauritius both for the beautiful wild setting and to dig a little deeper into the island’s predominant religion, Hinduism.

Start your visit with a stroll around the serene lake, often with animated monkeys keeping an eager eye, before admiring the temple, small shrines and statues of influential Hindu gods.

During the significant pilgrimage, around February or March, for the Maha Shivaratri Festival, hundreds of thousands of worshipers flock to the lake.

Make it happen: If you have a car, it’s an easy drive to the Grand Bassin. During February and March, when the pilgrimage takes place, hundreds of thousands of people visit the site, so worth keeping in mind. There are various tours of the island’s southwest if you are without a car, like this one, which includes time at the lake.

Le Morne Brabant

Situated on the island’s southwestern tip, the hypnotising magnificence of Le Morne Brabant is more than deserving of its UNESCO-listed status.

Flanked by fine white sandy shores and tranquil waters that glimmer in shades of cerulean and cyan, it’s a must-visit destination in Mauritius. If you have ever seen an image of the underwater ‘waterfall’ illusion, then you’ll recognise the basaltic monolith towering in the background.

Rising to a height of 556 metres and creating one of the most imposing backdrops for a beach day in the world, you’ll struggle to find a more impressive place to capture your holiday snaps on the island.

The mountain, for many, is a symbol and reminder of the island’s enslaved peoples’ fight for freedom, for it was in these isolated cliffs and wooded areas that many escaped to, forming small settlements. Spend some time learning about the Maroon Republic during your time on the island.

Make it happen: Depending on how you wish to experience the Peninsula, you can either drive or take a transfer to the beaches. If, however, you want to summit the peak, especially at sunrise, it’ll be best to book a tour with a local guide.

Ile Aux Aigrettes

Just a brief boat ride from the mainland, the islet of Ile Aux Aigrettes is one of many isles and boat excursion tour options to consider. What makes this a must-visit place for wildlife enthusiasts in Mauritius is the focus on scientific research within the nature reserve.

Following some significant restoration work, it’s a paradise within a paradise, where you can witness giant tortoises roaming free (often found in pens, for protection, elsewhere on the island), the intriguing Pink Pigeon, and an extensive array of indigenous fauna and flora.

Make it happen: There are various tours and operators running trips to the Islands.

Bois Cheri Tea Factory

The largest tea producer on the island, Bois Cheri, is a delightful environment and promises much more than a decent cuppa.

Take a tour of the grounds, where row upon row of manicured tea plants guide you down to a blissful lake ideal for kayaking, before taking a tour of the factory. Witness the tea in all stages of the process, from drying to packaging, before enjoying a flavoursome tasting. The vanilla tea is one not to miss.

Verdant and lush, the setting cries out for much more than just sampling the infusions, though. Devour a gastronomic treat in the attached restaurant to the backdrop of the rolling hills of Mauritius and playful deer. For a unique overnight adventure, you can book a stay in the small bubble lodge with a transparent domed roof ideal for stargazing – complete with the promise of the perfect morning cup of chai!

Make it happen: The factory is open for visitors Monday – Saturday, from 9:00 – 17:00, and the roads are good for driving access. Some of the tours of the south coast include stops here.

Port Louis & Market

Be sure to leave time for some urban exploring during your stay, and of course, the capital city of Port Louis is the best place in Mauritius to do so.

The compact capital offers a great insight into day-to-day life on the island, particularly for those who have opted to stay in a resort. Le Caudan Waterfront is excellent for walking, with colourful umbrellas hanging above shopping passages and an abundance of bars and restaurants to rest at along the water.

One of the finest ways to experience and savour the flavours of the city is at the central market. The hive of activity is found on the ground floor, stocked with multicoloured fruit, veg, tea and snacks from the provinces, while local fabrics and goods are located upstairs. Often called the national dish of Mauritius, Dholl Puri is a must-try, specifically from the small vendors on the street outside. These flatbreads, stuffed with smashed split peas, are mouthwatering when topped up with a spicy chilli paste – though if your tastebuds can’t handle hot food with a kick, go easy!

Make it happen: As the capital city, it’s easy to get to – including by local bus. The earlier you go to the market, the better, which is open from around 5:00 to 16:00, except on Sunday, when it closes earlier.

Pamplemousses Botanical Garden

Formally called Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden, yet more typically referred to as Pamplemousses Botanical Garden, botanists and amateurs will be drawn in by the fine array of flora.

The oldest botanical garden in the southern hemisphere, dating back some 300 years, is only a short drive from Port Louis yet feels a world away as you trade in the atmosphere of the markets for a peaceful walk through towering palms and delicate flowerbeds.

The pool of giant water-lilies (Victoria Amazonica) is quite the sight, and their protection is paramount due to facing extension. Allow yourself at least an hour to explore the gardens, yet with 90 acres and over 600 plants, many indigenous, you could well find yourself here for a long time.

Make it happen: Open from 8:30 – 17:30 daily, the gardens are less than a 15-minute drive or taxi from Port Louis.

Grand Baie

The most popular destination for tourists to Mauritius, and with good reason, Grand Baie isn’t going to take you off the beaten path, but it serves up everything one could want for a water-based day out.

Water sports lovers will find their day quickly filled here, with sailing, windsurfing, SUP, and countless boat excursions – including scuba diving – available along this section of the coast.

With plenty of shops, restaurants, and nightlife until the early hours, even if you aren’t staying close by, chances are you’ll find yourself passing through Grand Baie at some point during your Mauritius holiday.

Make it happen: A popular destination with many hotels nearby; chances are you may be close by – especially if you stay at the incredible Beachcombers resort as I did, an absolute dream of a hotel!

Rochester Falls

One of my favourite moments in Mauritius was the morning we spent splashing around the cold waters of Rochester Falls. There was just our group there until shortly after when a coconut seller joined us, his wrinkled handles expertly hacking open the green balls of goodness for us.

To access these relatively small falls, we ploughed our four-wheel-drive along rough mud tracks, shrouded in towering sugar cane so close we could reach from the windows and stroke it. On arrival, it was a slippy muddy climb down to the waterfalls, but the site of the falls and chilly awakening of the waters was more than reward enough for the effort.

Of course, there are many waterfalls dotted across the island, some easier to access than others, but for me, and perhaps it was the memory of that sweet coconut water as my feet cooled in the pool that made this one of my best places to visit in Mauritius.

Make it happen: You’ll need a bit of adventure, and perhaps a 4WD, to explore the dense vegetation out this way, but it is well worth it! Consider booking a quad bike tour to access the falls and experience another side of Mauritius.

Black River Gorges National Park

In the hilly south of Mauritius, the Black River Gorges National Park, the largest protected forest in the nation, provides ample opportunity to strap on your hiking boots and get lost entirely in leafy, dense nature. The landscapes are sublime, with the rolling hills meeting rainforest just as magical as the lapping waves on heavenly sands.

For many, the main draw is to witness the impressive Alexandra waterfall tumbling 150 metres down into the lush greenery below. However, with hundreds of species of plants, monkeys, delightful bird-watching options, and challenging hiking trails to tackle, you could easily and happily spend a day, or longer, discovering the national park.

Make it happen: There are many different ways to explore and experience the national park depending on your interests, but consider taking an eco-tour with a guide to get stuck in.

Chamarel Rhumerie

With sugar cane across the island, it should come as no surprise that one of the best places to visit in Mauritius is a rum distillery.

At Chamarel Rhumierie, you can expect a slick tour and tasting experience on the southwest coast – from the extensive grounds to the production rooms and the all-important tasting room, where cocktails are shaken and straight pours served. Perhaps, take a taxi for this one!

Make it happen: You can visit Monday – Saturday, between 9:00 – 16:00.

Of course, there are plenty more amazing places to visit in Mauritius – Tamarind & Chamarel Falls, Ile Aux Cerfs, and countless other beaches.

‘I don’t think I’ll enjoy a violin museum’, I confessed to Janet as we parked up on the last day of our Lombardy road trip. I looked around guiltily; it likely wasn’t the best confession to make in Cremona, a city that has built a celebrity status around the stringed instrument. But to be honest, I knew little more about this day trip from Milan, just over 90 minutes away from the region’s fashion capital.

Spoiler alert: the Violin Museum was more interesting than anticipated. Cremona, though, does have a lot more to offer than displays dedicated to global musical talent. Enough to make it still well worth putting on your Lombardy plan, even if you, too, also don’t fancy a violin museum.

‘It’s especially popular at Christmas’, Elena, at the tourist office, had advised us, as Janet and I shared confused glances.

‘But… but, it’s fruit in Mustard’ I said in disbelief, wondering if my enquiry about regional food specialities had been lost in translation. Curious and slightly concerned, we headed over to Formaggi D’Italia, a small local produce store sitting under the shadow of the city’s famous tower.

Mostarda di Cremona, usually consisting of candied fruit coated in a mustard-flavoured syrup, was indeed a local speciality, with a history dating back to the Roman Empire and the preservation of fruit.

Never one to say no to food, especially in Italy, I skewered a cherry onto my fork and prepared for the worst. The slightly spicy syrup still retained its sugary base, and the crystalised fruit complemented it well. I was kind of in disbelief, but Mostarda di Cremona actually tasted pretty damn lovely, even at 10 in the morning.

Today was going to be a day of Cremona surprises!

After a slightly bizarre breakfast, we set out to explore the small city of Cremona. Sitting close to the border with Emilia Romagna, the next region down from Lombardy, I quickly noticed influences from both areas in the architecture.

Porticos led to small squares with local restaurants, all radiating from the main square where the imposing and quite unique Cathedral took pride of place.

The main square is home to the city’s key pieces of architecture, including the 16th-century Torrazzo of Cremona, the mascot and icon.

Connected to the Cathedral, the Tower of Cremona boasts a height of over 110 metres, making it the third tallest brick tower in the world. As with most Italian cities, you’ll need to climb it for some of the best views. Once you reach the top, which comes complete with traffic lights due to how narrow it is, you can look across Lombardy and neighbouring Emilia Romagna.

Back on the ground level, you can admire the astronomical clock attached to the tower and the impressive-looking Cremona Cathedral.

A stunning example of Romanesque art, the Cathedral nearly didn’t get off the ground. While construction started in the 1100s, an earthquake came along and severely damaged the Cathedral shortly after. Eventually, some 60 years later, construction was completed, but with various extensions and additions, you’ll notice the array of styles both inside and outside the Cathedral.

Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance features all appear, and while the exterior is grand, the interior artwork really stands out.

The frescoes inside were created by well-known artists, and the story of Mary and Christ follows around the interior. The trickey art will make you feel like eyes are following you, and some of the masterstrokes of painting have created an almost 3D element.

As is common in the region, an octagonal Baptistery sits alongside the Cathedral, which was built shortly after the completion of the main building.

For some of the best views of the Cathedral, head to the opposite building, the town hall. Here, the upper-level windows help you get a better view of the detailed facade.

Most importantly though, do get and wander the quaint, colourful streets of Cremona, as with most of Italy, the joy is found down the alleyways of local producers, warm-hued houses, and small coffee shops perfect for taking a break.

By midday, the city felt deserted, a strange feeling in late June, especially coming from the buzzing metropolis of Milan. Perhaps the burning sun had driven the locals indoors, but I still don’t think this city is on the top of the tourist radar yet.

Pumpkin stuffed pasta, Tortelli di Zucca, is a staple from nearby Mantua, but it can also be found on menus here in Cremona and is a delicious lunch you must try. Playing full-blown tourists, we sat down to enjoy ours in Ristorante Pizzeria Duomo Cremona, where the terrace looks onto the Cathedral front.

For dessert, I highly recommend the Mousse di Torrone Cremonese, which uses the Nougat famous from Cremona in a soft and delicious form.

I can’t write about Cremona without covering the violins this city is most famous for, and while I didn’t overly enjoy the Violin Museum, there’s another way to appreciate the beauty of these instruments.

The Violin Museum itself is modern and well-equipped, although the €10 entrance fee restricts interest to those already passionate about the instrument. Inside, an audio-guide tour will take you through the rooms where violins by famous players and composers are preserved, and the violin-making history of the city is documented.

To give you a brief history lesson, it was here in Cremona that the modern violin prototype was invented. Now, it is one of the most famous places for producing violins worldwide, if not the most famous. Antonio Stradivari is a well-known name for producing the best quality violins in the world, and it was in the workshops where many of his stringed instruments were made, often referred to as Stradivarius.

If you are a little intrigued by the violin-making process, then I highly suggest that rather than, or in addition to the museum, you visit one of the Violin workshops that are still active in the city. This fascinated me, especially learning how much goes into making a handmade Cremona Violin.

‘14,000 Euros’ Janet gasped in disbelief as Marianne Jost showed us around the violin workshop she shared with her husband.

With each one of these handmade violins taking upwards of three months to put together, always to order delicately, the cost started to seem justified. It isn’t your amateur newbie who is likely ordering a violin from Marianne; it’s a passionate player who wants to invest in their art.

The workshop tour took us through the stages of the violin, from the sourcing of the wood to the tools used. Cutting out, sanding down, and piecing together these beautiful instruments is indeed a much more time-consuming task than I ever knew possible, and I left that workshop with a newfound respect for all those who are keeping traditional woodwork alive.

‘I really enjoyed that’, I confessed to Janet as we returned to our car. I’d known little more about Cremona before we arrived, but it had turned out to be one of those curious places that you venture to, unsure of what you’ll find or whether you’ll enjoy it.

For those who have a passion for violins, the draw is undeniable, but it’s also a pleasant city break or day trip from Milan, especially for visitors looking to enjoy Lombardy at a more relaxed pace. Likewise, it is ideal for visitors to nearby Venice who want a slice of the classics without the crowds.

Cremona, your mustardy-flavoured fruit and passionate artists surprised me in all the right ways.

Need to know: Cremona

Tips and insights to make planning your visit to Cremona a little easier.

Where to stay in Cremona on a budget: L’Archetto offers both dorm and private rooms, a short walk from the city centre. The clean, simple rooms get good write-ups, and the dorms aren’t bunk beds, which is always a bonus!

Where to stay in Cremona like a baller: For those with a car, the Agriturismo Cascina Farisengo, which is around four kilometres out from Cremona, might be the perfect option. A restored country house centred around a grand courtyard, it will suit those looking for that lazy Lombardy vibe on their vacations.

How to get to Cremona: From Milan, it takes around 90 minutes to drive to Cremona, where we quickly found parking on a Sunday morning. Direct trains run at just over an hour from Milano Centrale, though they are less frequent than the two-hour service with a connection in Treviglio.

Is London the best city break in the world? It’s undoubtedly one of those cities that has a never-ending list of attractions to visit, quirky things to do, and new restaurant openings. I called London home for much of my adult life, and even after many years living there, I still had so many things left to do on my London bucket-list.

My real appreciation for London didn’t begin though until I become a tourist. Coming back to a city you once called home with more time (and money) means you can start to appreciate a whole other side to a place. After my two day trip to Manchester, I jumped on a quick train to the capital to start working through my London bucket-list.

I’ve written about my budget London travel tips before, but here are 101 things to do in London, from the must-visit Museums and quirky speakeasy’s serving up excellent cocktails, through to the hidden underground history and lesser-known gems.

Classic London experiences you simply can’t miss
If you decide to maximise your time in the city by opting to book one of the many London Tours, you can be sure that most of these top highlights below will be covered.

1.Watch a West End Show

Catching a West End Show in London is a must, and with over thirty theatres to choose from you have plenty of options, not even counting the Opera Houses and classical music venues. I watched Matilda at the Cambridge Theatre on my last visit and can highly recommend it. Keep an eye out for ‘lottery tickets’ when you are in town, when shows, for example, The Book of Mormon, will do a lottery draw each night for last minute discounted tickets.

2.Covent Garden Market

It’s touristy sure, but I love it, and I worked here for many years. Not only have you got lots of cool restaurants around here, but the atmosphere with the street performers is also great. You’ll also often see musical performances in the basement of the cellar. Nearby in Seven Dials, you’ll also find a cool place to shop.

3.Tower of London

I’m ashamed to say I’ve never actually been inside the Tower of London, home to the crown jewels and the official fortress of London. You can either buy a ticket and head inside or simply enjoy walking the perimeter.

4.The Tower Bridge Walkway

Is there any London view more iconic than the Tower Bridge, especially when the bridge raises in the middle to let ships past.

What a lot of people don’t realise is you can actually go up the towers and walk across the bridge connecting them. It’s a really cool experience and gives you a different vantage point.

5.Changing of the Guard, Buckingham Palace and The Household Cavalry Museum

You can’t really visit London and skip out on this! Inside Buckingham Palace is the small Household Cavalry Museum which offers an insight into the royal regiment. The changing of the guard happens every day, usually at 10:45 am, though is cancelled in very wet weather, and hey, this is England after all!

6.Camden Market

There are plenty of cool Markets in London, but without a doubt one of the most famous is Camden Market. With over 1000 different stalls, selling crafts, fashion, food and plenty more, this buzzing and the photogenic market is another for the London bucket-list.

7.The South Bank and Tate Modern

I was very lucky to live in Shad Thames for a while, which is just by Tower Bridge, so got to walk along the South Bank every day to work.

The views across the Thames are great, and you can go on a London tour here easily, with the impressive Tate Modern museum, Tower Bridge, Waterloo Centre, Shakespeare Globe and St Pauls Cathedral views making it a fantastic walk. You’ll also find some of the best family hotels in London along this stretch, partly due to how much there is to do to keep the little ones entertained, but also how quickly and easily you can get around the whole city from the South Bank.

8.St Pauls Cathedral

Another of London’s iconic landmarks, St Pauls Cathedral is a beauty. Sadly, it is quite expensive to visit it (museums tend to be free in London, but a lot of religious buildings charge) so you may want to just enjoy this icon from outside.

9.The National Gallery

Not only is The National Gallery in Trafalgar Square home to some 2000+ paintings, but it’s also an incredibly beautiful building inside with free entrance which makes it a must visit for me.

10.Big Ben & Westminster

The Houses of Parliament and Big Ben are two of the most famous and impressive architectural buildings in the capital. You can take tours through Westminster Abbey or just admire Big Ben from outside, though know renovation work and cladding will likely be covering it until 2021.

11.Shopping in London: Hamleys, Harrods and Liberty

If you like to shop, then London will spoil you. There are though, of course, a few bucket-list London shops you simply must visit. While Hamleys and Harrods are stars, my personal favourite department store in London is Liberty, thanks in parts to the old-world style architecture outside and in.

Marvellous museums to visit in London

In London, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to Museums, with literally 100’s to choose from. Here are a few I think are worth checking out.

12.The London Museum

The London Museum is great and really interactive, some of the most interesting parts are underground, where mockup shops, streets and pubs from Victorian times help you really understand the history of the city.

13.The Brunel Museum

The Brunel Museum in Rotherhithe is a really cool space, worth checking out for the history of the building. Housed in the old engine house, here you used to find the worlds oldest underground theatre.

14.Churchill War Rooms

Part of the Imperial War Museum, these underground rooms and bunkers are hidden below Westminster and are where Churchill led WW2 from, an interesting space in the centre of the city.

15.Natural History Museum

What a stunner, inside and out, with the architecture of the main hall vying for attention from a blue whale skeleton. A real must visit and it’s free for the main exhibition!

16.Old Operating Theatre Museum

One of the oldest surviving operating theatres in the UK, if not the world, this kinda-creepy but kinda-cool museum is really interesting, and something a little bit different.

17.Museum of Brands

If you are into art, design and marketing like me, then this quirky museum will interest you. Studying and highlighting different brands and their packaging since the Victorian era, it’s a great call on a wet day!

18.The Design Museum

I used to go to The Design Museum regularly when I lived just behind it in Shad Thames, and now it’s moved its new space it’s even better. For anyone into graphics, fashion or even product design, it’s a great space to visit in London.

Alternative places to get a slice of history in London
If museums aren’t your thing, then fear not, there are plenty of other opportunities to sample the history and heritage of London.

19.London Roman Wall

While maintenance ceased for most of the wall in the 18th-century, you can still find parts of it around the city, although the most famous part is near the Tower of London. Keep an eye out or grab some location pins to spot it elsewhere.

20.St Bartholomew the Great

This beautiful church is super ornate inside and out, and I personally believe it is one of the best in London. Located just off Barbican station it also wasn’t very touristy when I visited, but perhaps that was just luck!

21.Guildhall Yard – Roman Amphitheatre

Dating back to 2nd century BC, but only discovered in 1988, the remains of London’s Roman Amphitheatre can be found under Guildhall Yard. Above land, you can see an outline of a circle, and below you can visit what has been excavated. It’s not in the best of condition though.

22.Shakespeare’s Globe

This amazing outside theatre on the South Bank, and which is open to the elements, is worth popping in to have a look at. The best way to do so would be to actually go and see a show, although walking tours will also fill you in on the history of the building.

23.Nunhead Cemetery

Because who doesn’t want to visit a cemetery on their London trip? Nunhead is part of the Magnificent Seven cemeteries of London but isn’t really that visited. It’s pretty overgrown and kinda eery, but if you want some lesser-visited London history, you’ll certainly find it here (a little out of central).

24.Leadenhall Market

Since 1445 Leadenhall Market has been in operation, and this covered beauty will have you thinking of Milan I’m sure, in a more compact and London style at least.

25.An Underground Farm

Now, this is pretty cool! The worlds first underground farm can now be toured, and it’s very unique location, 33-metres underground no less, is made even more special as it is a WW2 air raid shelter. Told you it was cool!

26.The Postal Museum and Tunnels

More tunnels, but this time for the mail rail! At the Postal Museum, you can ride through this quirky underground tunnels that are over 100-years old and learn all about the postal history here in lovely London!

27.Kingston upon Thames

Still in London, but a town in its own right, Kingston on Thames is a lovely little day trip out for those who are spending an extended visit to London.

28.The Queens House, Greenwich

IMO, one of the most beautiful buildings in London, yet it also didn’t seem too busy when I visited. An old royal residence, it’s rather stately inside and from the ornate ceilings to the curves of the staircases, it just screams beauty and design.

29.Royal Observatory Greenwich

Come and literally stand on the timeline at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich. Not only is it in an excellent park, but the meridian line literally passes through here, so you can swat up on your astronomy and navigation knowledge. If you aren’t aware, GMT literally is Greenwich Mean Time.

Gardens and outside spaces to enjoy in London

When (yes when, not if) the sun is shining in London, we are spoilt with greeny leafy spaces to go and sunbathe once the slightest ray appears. But, here are some spots worth visiting all year round.

30.Primrose Hill

To be honest, I don’t overly get the fuss about here. The views of the London skyline is cool, and I’ve left it on as my friends love heading here, but I think some of the other suggestions are more worth your time.

31.Postman’s Park

Postman’s Park isn’t huge, but this small area is beautiful for a special reason, it is dedicated to those who lost their lives saving or helping another. It’s a spot you’ll want to be thoughtful in, especially as you read the plaques of dedication.

32.Speakers’ Corner in Hyde Park

Hyde Park is a vast royal park next to Kensington Gardens and including The Serpentine lake, but there is one famed point worth noting, the Speakers Corner. For over 200-years this spot has been a place for people to speak, to share their views, both positive and negative, and even today you’ll often find people doing just that.

33.Kyoto Gardens in Holland Park

In case the name didn’t give it away, this beautiful Japanese style garden in Holland Park could be one of the most tranquil and peaceful spots in London, though it’s so popular with photographers and tourists you likely won’t get much of a chance to relax in the height of summer.

34.Columbia Road Flower Market

Not really a park, but this Sunday market is a gem and popular with both those looking for flowers, and those looking for the ‘gram.

35.Barbican Conservatory

Another Sunday only option, the second biggest conservatory in London is right in the heart of the city, which is what makes it so cool to be honest!

36.Greenwich Park

See point above about GMT and the observatory, also it’s a cool park and you can visit the Cutty Sark. Greenwich, in general, is just awesome, as it’s separate enough from London to feel different and the food markets cool. Yeah, I just like Greenwich!

Off-the-beaten-path hidden gems in London

To be fair, I’m not sure all of these are really hidden gems anymore, or if hidden gems is something you can ever say about a city as populated and visited as London but humour me.

37.Richmond Park

THEY HAVE DEER! WILD DEER IN LONDON!

38.Neal’s Yard

This colourful quarter near Convent Garden/Seven Dials was not really known when I first moved to London, but now it’s all over Instagram so I imagine it’s pretty hectic on the old photoshoots these days.

39.St Dunstan in the East

In the city of London is this weather down, moss-covered, church and it’s dope. I used to sometimes come here to eat my lunch, weird, but it’s a cool spot given it’s passed by daily by 1000s of bankers in suits.

40.Leighton House

The Eastern Influence of this building makes the ticket price well worth it. Think green and blue tiles, marble pillars and ornate Arabic designs. Check out the photos, you’ll love it, it’s like another world in London.

41.The Banqueting House

The last remains of the Palace of Whitehall, again inside this building is beautiful! Monarchs in the 1500s would dine here, and it’s still used for that function today when people aren’t visiting it to break their neck enjoying the divine ceiling.

42.Eltham Palace

Back out Greenwich way (did I mention I liked Greenwich?) is Eltham Palace, attractive inside and out, it’s very often used as a wedding venue these days. It’s a real design beast, to be honest, as the medieval building compliments with modern architectural design inside.

43.Billingsgate Roman Baths

To be fair, there isn’t that much to look at here, and as such this won’t be for everyone’s London’s bucket-list. But for those interested in the history of Londinium (Roman name) these are worth noting too.

44.Lost Tube Tunnels

More tunnels, and this time the old tube lines that have been left abandoned. Hidden London used to run tours to these very sporadically, but now I can’t find out much information about it. Best bet is to reach out to the transport museum and see if they are accessible during your visit to London.

Funky ways to get around London

While central London might seem large on a tube map, in reality, it can often be quicker to walk than taking the tube a few stops, so keep this in mind. But if you want to spice up your transport options, here are a few picks!

45.Thames Clippers

As well as the standard public transport options, the Thames Clipper is a boat service which runs up and down the gleaming crystal waters (cough cough) of the Thames. It’s not the cheapest option, but it makes for a nice alternative.

46.Hop on Hop off bus

You can’t come to London and not get an iconic red-bus photo, but if you want to avoid learning multiple bus routes, then one of the hop on hop off bus tours which allow you to jump on and off will be a simple, if not more expensive, option.

47.Jack The Ripper Walking Tour

A serial killer themed tour, perhaps not one for young kids?

48.Harry Potter Walking Tour

A wizarding tour you might have heard of, perhaps better for young kids.

49.Hidden London Tours

As I mentioned above, the Hidden London tours offer underground tube tunnel tours, but they also have other options too. I will update this once I’ve got some confirmation on if these awesome London tours are still going.

50.Bike Scheme

You’ll spot them all over, once Boris bikes, then Santander bikes, and I don’t really know what they are now. But the London bikes are green and pretty affordable, and you can get more details on that link.

Underrated and thus relatively undisturbed, Bosnia and Herzegovina is a treasure trove for adrenaline junkies seeking adventure activities in the Balkans. Right now, with still a pretty much under-the-radar status beyond Mostar, that means epic hikes into crowd-free wilderness and white water rafting with friendly price tags.

Sure, the Albanian Riviera is touted as the next big beach destination, and Kotor in Montenegro seems on the path to becoming the next Dubrovnik, yet Bosnia and Herzegovina so far seems to have avoided most of the spotlight.

Trust me when I say, though, it won’t be long until all of this country’s best bits are discovered. I’ve made no secret that BiH is one of my favourite countries in the world, and I really hope you’ll make the visit to discover why.

Ten adventure activities in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Don’t get me wrong, there are many reasons to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina beyond the unspoilt nature, but if you’re addicted to adrenaline or craving fresh mountain air with a touch of history and culture thrown in, then perhaps this Balkan nation should be your next adventure holiday. Here’s what to expect.

1.White water rafting on crystal clear waters

What better place to start your Bosnia and Herzegovina adventure than in my favourite small town of the Balkans: Konjic?

Lining the riverbanks that cut through Konjic are a handful of guest houses and a couple of beautiful mosques. Yet, just moments away along the Neretva River, you’ll find raging white water rapids that then relax into tranquil waters. The waters are so clear you can see the bottom and so clean, I’d say it’s drinkable.

Visit Konjic has fast become one of the premier adventure activity suppliers in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and I highly recommend the half-day rafting with a BBQ lunch en route. You’ll enjoy a mix of adrenaline and relaxation, and the views on the way down the river back to Konjic are seriously dreamy, as these photos prove.

2.Skiing without breaking the bank

Bosnia and Herzegovina is, in my opinion, a fantastic ski destination for numerous reasons.

One, the nearest ski resort to Sarajevo, is just over 40 minutes drive away. Two, the cost is a lot more palatable here than in central Europe. This makes it appealing for both those who want to hit the slopes and those who just want a snowy mountain air getaway.

The two largest resorts in the county are Jahorina and Bjelasnica, hitting a peak altitude of around 2000 metres.

3.Mountain hiking and ethnic villages

The mountains throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina are jaw-droppingly magnificent, and I found them to be surprisingly devoid of hikers even in the summer.

Sticking to the semi-beaten path is the best idea here, though, as landmines are still being discovered in parts of the country. A tragic reminder of the nation’s relatively recent past. If you want to really work your boots out, hire a local guide to enjoy the best roots.

Again, I went with Visit Konjic along the route through Lukomir, one of the last remaining ethnic villages in the country. Not far from Sarajevo, the simple stone houses and farming way of life in the mountains offer an insight into a more traditional way of life.

4.Cycling across borders and ancient train lines

The CIRO cycling route is an impressive project, and I’m seriously surprised it hasn’t had more coverage in European news.

The old Austria-Hungarian railway, which ran through the country, is long gone. But the route it followed now links Mostar with Dubrovnik in neighbouring Croatia. If you don’t want to pedal across the two borders, you should aim to do at least part of the route, which takes you past hidden gems and stunning countryside.

My personal favourite part of the cycling trail runs through Zavala. You can likely count the population here on one hand, but the old train station has been converted into a boutique B&B and between the monastery on the hill, incredible star gazing, local wine and the Vjetrenica caves, it makes for a great overnight cycle stop.

5.Exploring caves with unique biology

Located in Zavala, the Vjetrenica caves are a must-visit if you find yourself travelling nearby.

The Vjetrencia caves are the largest in the country, stretching over 7000 metres into the rock face, but with only around 2000 metres open to the public. The formations of these caves have a few important qualities. Firstly, the chimney-like holes throughout the caves create a micro-ecosystem and constant breeze and wind, while unique wildlife, such as the ‘human fish’ with four legs, lives in the cave’s waters.

6.Canyoning lesser explored lands

During the summer months, the Rakitnica River plays host to groups of adventure lovers who want to head Canyoning into its rocky waters.

Heading off from the village of Kašići, you can float along the angry waves through tiny rocky gaps and canyons. Professional gear and guides are a must here.

The deep rocky gorges, with green mossy sides, make for an epic setting, and while the water is reasonably cold all year round, a wet suit and a sense of adrenaline will keep the chills away.

7.Crazy bridge jumping in the name of tradition

Mosta’s famed Stari Most, the old bridge, which was reconstructed around twenty years ago, plays host to a pretty unique tradition.

For hundreds of years, young men have taken the nearly 25-metre leap from the top of the bridge with the intention of impressing girls. Nowadays, that tradition has subsided, and you’ll more often see people taking the jump for money, with hat collections taking place before locals plunge into the water below.

For those who are brave enough, you can take on this (dangerous) Mostar bridge jump yourself. The Mostar Diving Club can provide assistance and training before the jump, given some people cause serious injury, and deaths have been reported, doing this under local supervision is obviously recommended. While it will be over in moments, it’s a pretty cool adrenaline rush and story to remember your trip to Mostar by and perhaps even with adding to your Croatia itinerary as a detour.

8.Mountain Biking epic landscapes

Taking it a level up from the more casual CIRO cycling route, those who want a bit of an adventure challenge can explore the mountains of Bosnia and Herzegovina on more heavy-hitting bikes.

There are plenty of places to head Mount Biking, popular locations include Bitovinja and Zlatar, although the route around Bjelašnica and the village of Lukomir I mentioned above is perhaps one of the most scenic in the country and also blends in that cultural and historical touch.

9.Tubing, boating and jet skiing

With so many incredible lakes, rivers and waterfalls in Bosnia and Herzegovina, you can tailor your adventure activities to suit your level of chill or thrill.

Kravica Waterfall provides a relaxing setting to lounge around in the water, while Scit Lake, with its monastery in the middle, is a gorgeous spot to hire one of the few local Jet Skis.

Seriously, road-tripping this country will take you through many unbelievably coloured water spots, so although the coastline of Neum is tiny in Bosnia and Herzegovina, water adventures are most certainly in.

10.Skydiving at Banja Luka

If you fancy taking to the skies and getting an aerial view of Bosnia and Herzegovina, there are a few places you can do this.

One of the most popular is Banja Luka skydiving club, and given the spectacular countryside you’ll be high above, it is not surprising.

The club has been around for decades and was where the first skydive in Bosnia and Herzegovina took place. Your jump will provide a birds-eye view of the lush green countryside and multi-coloured hues of greens and blues from the many lakes throughout the mountains.

Bonus: Continue the canyon road trip to Montenegro

If you are road-tripping through the Balkans, I highly recommend continuing your journey to Montenegro, especially the stunning north of the country. Shortly across the border is Pluzine, and the route linking the two countries takes in some stunning rafting locations, including the impressive Tara Canyon.

Spain is a country renowned worldwide for its perfectly crafted cuisine, fresh seasonal produce and passionate chefs who can take the simplest of ingredients and turn them into a mouth-watering journey for your taste buds.

It’s also home to the Ultimate Eatlist number one, pintxos in Donostia in San Sebastián, a culinary gem found in the Basque Country. But with each region and province serving up their own tasty local treats, to tick off all the 13 Spanish foodie experiences featured, you’ll have to take a journey across the country. And, who wouldn’t want to eat their way from paella to pintxos or tapas to Torta de Santiago anyway? This was one trip I couldn’t wait to get my teeth into!

No matter what destination my food tour of North Spain went to, nearly every morning began at the market. With fresh, seasonal produce being the focus here, and local ingredients and flavours prevailing, a trip to the market is much more than a shop, it’s a social exercise in itself.

In Barcelona, Sarah, who would later cook us up some Catalonian treats in her home, guided us through a few of the local markets to meet her suppliers, or should I say, friends. The community bonds between those who sell and buy at these markets are genuine, and the community seems to be at the heart of the culinary culture throughout the country. Celebrating the market culture of Spain, at number 23 on the Ultimate Eatlist, is Barcelona’s La Boqueria market, which is by far one of the most visited by tourists. This bustling pit stop on La Rambla is a buzz of bars, stalls and samplers, and a great introduction before hunting out some of the smaller markets throughout the city.

Logrono is at the heart of La Rioja, and as such, it’s a wine-lovers destination, especially during the San Mateo festival, which blissfully coincided with our visits. The streets were electric with music, glasses of fine red wines clinked together in squares, and we worked our way through countless bars on a ‘tapas-crawl’, the more foodie and refined way of having a bar-crawl.

Not happy with just sampling these local wines, we headed to Laguardia, a well-preserved medieval town, to see them at their source. Over 240 tunnels run underneath this walled town, and many of these are wine cellars or production areas. Climbing down the stairs of one Bodega, where the wine is still traditionally pressed by foot, we sampled both old and young Riojas in the very cellar they aged in.

Topping the Ultimate Eatlist are pintxos in San Sebastián; small and delicious, these flavoursome treats come in many forms. From the simple and tasty mini-skewer combination of olive, anchovy and pepper known as the ‘Gilda’, the most traditional pintxo, to intriguing ingredients piled high on bread, this is a dining delight that involves multiple flavours.

Don’t mistake pintxos for tapas, though; these tiny bites are mainly to be found in the Basque Region and aren’t to be confused with the traditionally free bar snacks of tapas which are served in other parts of Spain. Pintxos are ordered and paid for individually and aren’t just an accompaniment to a drink; they are the star attraction and a social dining experience.

The best way to enjoy pintxos in San Sebastián is by taking to the buzzing streets of the old town where countless bar-tops are piled-high with numerous variations, from tooth-pick based stacks to mini-sandwiches.

This is social dining at its very best, and the crowds from the bars spill out onto terrace tables, street stools, beautiful plazas and even church stairs to enjoy the atmosphere of dining in this culinary city. Don’t start your editable escapade too early, though; 9 pm is about the earliest to hit the streets if you want to enjoy your pintxos with a slice of social buzz in one of Europe’s best food cities. You should be expecting to be eating and drinking for much of your evening in the old town. Is there any better excuse for a mid-afternoon siesta?

While you can grab a plate and quickly fill it with the tempting and delectable bites before you, do as the locals do and take yourself on a bar-hopping adventure. This way, you can sample various treats in different bars. Order a glass of the local wine, Txakoli, and enjoy the theatre of the skilled bartenders pouring it from a height, which increases the bubbles in the glass, before sampling a small selection of the bar-top snacks or blackboard specials.

It’s easy to miss the specialities on the blackboards, which are usually cooked fresh, unlike the spread on the counter, but be sure to ask the bartender what their best dish is and order away. Whether it is battered white asparagus or mushrooms soaking in garlic, make sure you leave space to enjoy the warm dishes. While we were in Bilbao, we continued our indulgence on the Pintxos after exploring the impressive Guggenheim museum.

There is no denying that San Sebastián is a breathtaking beach destination, especially the views overlooking the bay from the top of Mount Igueldo, a tremendous post-pintxo burn off the hike or easily accessed by funicular.

But there is a lot more to this destination than meets the eye, especially for those with a real passion for food. There are around 150 gastronomic societies in San Sebastián, think members social clubs but for cooking and sharing culinary creativity, where family get-togethers occur or locals spend time in the communal kitchen. Members of these societies have their own key and can access it at any time of day, and I was lucky enough to spend a morning with local Chef Ben, who showed us around these often hidden-away foodie clubs and taught me how to cook local specialties. If you find yourself in San Sebastián, then try and sample the society experience yourself.

Leaving the beautiful cuisine of the Basque Country behind is hard, but when you are heading to the stunning mountains of the Picos de Europa National Park next, you’ll quickly be blown away by the transformation of the scene around you.

As we drove through breathtaking mountains littered with goats and caramel cows preciously grazing on the steep inclines, the tiny village of Cosgaya was to be our home for the night. The perfect warm-up to the delicious Cocido leaning, a hearty stew we would feast on that night, would come in the form of a hike through the quaint village and impeccable alpine views.

With one of the oldest markets in Spain greeting us the next morning, the charming streets of Potes and the friendly vendors of the food stalls had us quickly sorted for a rich picnic of local snacks, all rounded off with glasses of wine and against a stunning backdrop and monastery.

Cheeses and ciders are a must when in Asturias, and we had ample opportunity to sample both. From the tiny local restaurant in the mountains to the aptly nick-named cider street in Oviedo, the homemade brews aren’t too sweet, but Cider Sangria is an apt pick for those with a sweeter tooth.

Our adventure continued to underground caves, where one of the country’s most famous cheeses is produced. Queso de Cabrales (D.O.P.) is a strong blue cheese and while the taste might not be to everyone’s fancy, the traditional method of production using the humidity of the caves is fascinating. In the small, tight-knit communities where it is produced, you’ll find stories of years gone by and authentic outfits and tools on display. Completely stuffed from the whirlwind of an adventure so far, the spotless city of Oviedo provided the perfect base to relax, digest and of course, sample more of that famous cider!

Venturing to Galicia, a region famed for its seafood and fish, we visited the largest city, A Coruna for a delicious meal of mussels and squid direct from the fish market.

Like any incredible journey though, mine sadly had to end. And against the impressive backdrop of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, I dived into my last Ultimate Eatlist tick, the almond based Tarta de Santiago. Coming in at number 272 it was the perfect sweet treat to bid my farewells to Spain. With another 487 foodie experiences left on the list, it was on to the next adventure (and meal) for me.

‘The crowd is a story, the event is a story, but you really only need one person for a story. Just think, how many stories do we walk past each day?’

We slowly shuffle across a wooden pontoon bridge, securely balanced on plastic drums floating in the river. A countless throng of people walk in relaxed unison ahead, while behind us, the gates are closed to manage the crowds. We’re fully aware we have taken a wrong turn. Yet, with no sense of direction left, we silently admit defeat to ourselves, if not openly to each other.

Buried deep amongst an ever-growing collection of some thirty million pilgrims, the colours and calls around me were enchanting. Stylish saris swayed in the air, drying from a dip in the sacred waters, while the sun’s glare was as bright as the orange robes adorning many of the devotees. Brothers and sisters were chanting alongside their mothers and fathers, and all the hues and happenings had started to blur into one. The Praygraj Kumbh Mela was in full swing, and with nearly a month of the event left, it was unapologetically unrelenting.

We reach the other side of the rivers, plural, as it is here that two bodies of water join. The distinct colours of The Ganga and Yamuna unite at this point, also meeting the mythical Saraswati river, unseen by the eye but known by those of faith. This point is the Sangam, and we had inadvertently arrived at the right place had it only been a day later.

Across the bridge, all bodily senses resume at full. My ears were being pulled in multiple directions, while my eyes wanted to follow a different path. My feet, however, were arguing, already weak in the hazy mid-day sun.

I thought I had felt sensory overload before, but the world’s largest faith-based gathering was now garnering pole position for that award. For the first time in a long time, I was at a loss. Not just physically lost but unsure of how to experience an event so different from anything I had ventured into before.

There are countless impressive facts about the Kumbh Mela that I’ve written about, but here I want to share the story of my momentary madness attending the festival. This isn’t an event that you attend to tick off activities; it’s an event you come to experience to find your own story and spirituality, and hopefully, you’ll accomplish that better than I did.

Because, to be honest, writing this now, I’m still not really sure what I experienced. Partly due to bad planning, and sheer scale, but also because this isn’t a festival set up for visitors, it’s a religious right of passage for Hindus. It was fascinating to attend, and it was beautiful to be a part of, but there were many times I was lost in the moment and not caught up romantically way, but in language barriers and confusion. Don’t expect a detailed map and guide to this event in English; it’s up to you to navigate and write your own.

The Kumbh Mela indeed is something special, but as a non-practising foreigner, you have to approach it with an open mind, and you’ll likely come away with as many questions as when you arrived.

When it comes to spirituality and finding those connections, India is certainly the place to be. Yoga and Ashrams are commonplace throughout the country, and learning from an Indian yoga master is, I’d imagine, a far more spiritual experience than a Western teacher in a London classroom!

At events like this, you start to appreciate that Yoga is so much more than poses; it’s a sense of mind, and had we not been in such a rush on this trip, I’d have been inclined to spend some time time to travel to a Kavaalya international yoga training centre in India, a recommendation of a friend. While I certainly don’t think I could commit to a few weeks, this ashram offers a great balance between relaxation and intense yoga training. It really offers the best of India while staying with an international group.

But alas, the opportunity wasn’t meant to be, so we carried on hunting for our spiritual connection amongst millions of others at the Kumbh Mela.

Allahabad, the ordinarily small and unassuming city of this grand event, was once the capital of Uttar Pradesh. The capital title was lost to Lucknow, and last year, in late 2018, it also lost its name. While the Kumbh Mela has been taking place at this sacred meeting point of the three rivers for longer than is known, this is the first year it has done so under its new city title: Prayagaj Kumbh Mela.

Names of places are used intermittently here. Kashi and Benares are often still said when talking about the nearby holy city, which is Varanasi, while Allahabad is still commonly referenced when discussing Prayagraj. Nothing is forever, not even a name it seems, and the Kumbh Mela is the perfect reminder of this, especially for those who come to take the holy dip, where a bathe at this point is said to wash away all sins. I was advised by a local to use my time here to stop, to connect and to appreciate, though I perhaps only succeeded at the latter of the three.

Inspiration, Information and transformation are how I had heard the Kumbh Mela described, and as we wandered through the makeshift tents and camps varying from glamorous Yoga retreats with lavish en-suite rooms to simple blankets where Naga Sadhus rested, I felt an intense amount of inspiration to travel again.

I’ve played my travels quite safe in the last few months, making the most of hopping around Europe with my pre-Brexit UK passport and work rights. But here, in amongst such a unique setting, I was inspired to travel as I used to, chasing experiences rather than photo opportunities, yet no matter how hard I tried, I don’t think I ever broke through the imaginary barrier I was experiencing at the Kumbh Mela.

Our journey continued, to the left we passed Naga Sadhus, some of the holiest of Hindus giving blessings, and to the right stalls were serving up chai and pakora. The ash-covered bodies of the Sadhus, who have given up their material possession, drew me in, partly due to their spiritual appearance and revered status and partly due to the rituals being carried out with a bell hung from a penis. I thought photos had prepared me for this day, but as I crouched down to be blessed, I realised just how much I still had to learn about Hinduism.

That afternoon I witnessed hundreds of people lining up at feeding tables, where subsidised or free meals were dished out to pilgrims, a backbone of the events inclusiveness. In the background, yet deserving of celebration, countless people ensured the make-shift event space remained spotless. Whether they were fishing out offerings from the river or dusting up debris on the grounds, it’s no small feat to pull off such a large-scale event and retain control and cleanliness.

Personal moments of respite and intimacy came when sitting down on small benches, where conversation and Chai aplenty were delivered by smiling owners working over small stoves or when dipping into the small communities set up around tents. Friendly locals would ask for selfies, and I gained fragments of insights into the festival and people who made it, shakily still unsure of how to behave as a visitor.

My journey was just a mere glimpse, though, a tiny speck of the event, and after walking 16 kilometres, I still hadn’t even witnessed half of what was occurring along these river banks.

‘Where are we?’ I question a policeman who motions to a dot on the map, far removed from where I was expecting. Bridge nineteen, our leader, had repeated many times that morning, but the adventurer in me had ignored him, and now the soles of our feet would pay the price as we gulped, glancing back at bridge two behind us.

I’d say I’m an experienced traveller, but amongst so many people, where there are more temporary toilets (125,00 are constructed for the event) than residents in my new home town, I learnt that sometimes staying on the more beaten path is the best thing to do. The ongoing call of announcements across loudspeakers from the Kumbh lost and found centre, trying to reunite families and friends, reinforced this fact.

Attending the Kumbh Mela had been on my bucket list since 2013, when I accidentally found myself amongst the Haridwar Kumbh for a few hours. My memories of that were far more overwhelming, perhaps because I was travelling alone.

This time, the simplicity of people connecting and bathing made me focus on the serene rather than the scale, yet this conflicted with the complicated journeys many had taken to be here.

It is hard for me to summarise how I felt as a faith outsider attending the festival. I didn’t feel like a voyeur stealing naughty peeks into someone else’s world, mainly due to how friendly and welcoming everyone was, but I’ll admit my feelings of being out of place. My short time at the Kumbh wasn’t long enough to experience it in full, nor to embed myself at the moment, yet at the same time, when I left, I felt ready to go.

I’d learn a week later that during my attendance, it was reported as the largest human gathering ever, with close to fifty million people flocking to Praygraj on the most auspicious day for bathing. These numbers don’t compute to me. The sheer scale and fact I’ve been to the largest meeting of people ever outstands me, but there, in the moment, as the three of us stared blankly at a bridge and a policeman framed against a giant Pepsi sign, it ironically didn’t seem as intense as I had envisioned.

Sometimes, you have to shrug things off, accept what will be, and go with the flow. In the same way that these revered rivers continued to flow despite the volume of visitors lining their banks, we, too, had to accept whatever the day would be.

We ventured on, met with smiling yet inquisitive faces, arms stretched out for more selfies, finally stopping to cool down with freshly squeezed sugar cane juices from a vintage grinder. To truly appreciate the moment, you have to break the Kumbh Mela down to your immediate vicinity and forget about the rest. In isolation, pockets of the event were subdued and straightforward, yet in its entirety, it can seem intense and unfathomable.

For all the noise about numbers, the Kumbh Mela really wasn’t as overwhelming as I had envisioned. Would I want to attend such an event solo? Likely not. Did I feel as out of my depth as I thought I would? No. Was I blown away by the logistics and management of the Kumbh Mela? Yes.

The path we opted for followed what would usually would be a road, and for the first time in India, I was grateful when the honking of rickshaws and cars returned as we neared its end.

Hailing an auto, we passed Ferris wheels and music blaring from a temporary modern theme park, competing with the chanting that echoed out of the wide, colourful windows of the temple across the street.

Abruptly, our rip-off Rickshaw ride came to an end at a roadblock. Much of the designated Kumbh area is vehicle-free, so we resigned ourselves to the long walk back. Bridge nineteen I thought, as we glanced it taunting us in the distance a few hours later.

‘You can only see India when you let India inside of you. Don’t keep it at arm’s length’ Sadhvi Bhagawatiji advised before dusk as we waited for the evening Ganga Aarti, a spiritual event of chanting and community led by Swami Chidanand.

Her words resonated with my usual travel style, yet somehow, I hadn’t experienced the Kumbh Mela as I had envisioned. Perhaps it was me, feeling like a foreign intruder and too unsure to interact fully, or maybe it was ultimately that the event wasn’t for tourists; it was for people’s spiritual connections.

I was aware of the stories around me, nearly fifty million different stories, in fact. Each came from different homes and on different journeys; there were never-ending novels of stories here. Some visitors had walked for days; others had abandoned their cars at the final hurdle when roads had shut. But nearly all were brought here because of one thing: their faith. I wanted to know more; I wanted to know the personal stories, but it didn’t seem like the place to stop and ask.

As I stood on the dusty banks of the Ganga, now reunited with my group, I felt present but still not fully there. I wasn’t sure if this journey to the Kumbh Mela was meant for looking at everything around me or for looking inside myself. There are some moments I wish my job wasn’t to photograph or film but merely to be present; this was one of those.

The flames were lit for the Aarti, and everyone who was sat around joined in chanting, I, however, slunk to the back of the crowd. This was a dream photo moment, it was unlike anything else I’d experienced, yet by now I was confident this wasn’t for me, and it meant so much more to the people in front. It was right to let them enjoy this moment after their incredible and long journeys to be here. Travelling is as much about knowing when to let someone else take in the experience as it is knowing when to experience it yourself.

At dinner that night, I reflected a lot: on travelling, on faith and on spirituality. The Kumbh Mela has triggered something in me, but I just couldn’t work out what.

The next morning before dawn was the Mauni Amavasya, a maha snan day. The planetary positions are what define the most favourable days for bathing, and thus, this was the most attended day of the Kumbh Mela and the event I was most looking forward to. It is on these special days that the Naga Sadhus lead the procession to the Sangam and initiate the bathing from the moment the moon hits its key position until after sunrise.

At first, the plan was to leave the night before and take the crowded journey across the river by foot, finally reuniting me with that elusive number nineteen bridge. A last-minute change led to our guide confirming boats for the early hours instead, which was sadly the start of the end.

To say the rest of my time at the Kumbh Mela didn’t go to plan would be an understatement. The boats couldn’t get to where they needed to, the logistics fell apart, and as people bathed on either side of the river, we bobbed around a plastic pontoon, removed from the very reason we were here on this day. We were locked in limbo land, too far from either river bank to be fully involved.

The Sangam was in the distance, enjoying its prime moment of glory, and I burst into hysterical and delirious laughter from a lack of sleep. A day earlier, we had accidentally arrived at the Sangam cursing, yet now, at the moment we had come for it, it was just slightly out of reach.

In hindsight, I can remind myself of what I thought at the evening aarti. This isn’t an event for me or my camera, and perhaps it was a divine intervention that stopped our vast group of camera-wielding journalists from blocking people’s views of such a once-in-a-lifetime moment.

Travel is unexpected, and no matter how much planning you make, things can go wrong. This was one of those mornings, and it sadly brings my Kumbh Mela story to an abrupt and uneventful end.

Am I glad I went? Yes. Would I go again? Unsure. Did I experience the event in the way I had wished? Certainly not.

But if you find yourself in India during the Kumbh Mela, it’s genuinely worth attending even if just for a day, this is an event you’ll never forget, and the experience and takeaway will be different for each person.

Don’t go marvelling at the millions of people as I did, though; go looking for that one story, that one human connection, and do better than me, go more in-depth than I did, and throw out any preconceptions or expectations.

Arrive at the Kumbh Mela with an open mind and let it play out. There are fifty million reasons your journey will be unique, but you only need to find one.

I’m sad I didn’t get enough time to learn more of the stories of why people were here, the stories of their journeys and faith or what this meant for them. The only story I left the Kumbh Mela with was mine, an incomplete, pages missing kind of chapter. The Kumbh Mela had left a mark on me, but I’m not so sure what that mark was.

Perhaps, one day, I’ll return to Prayagraj and write this story’s ending.

Need to know: The Prayagraj Kumbh Mela

A few tips and insights to make planning your visit to The Prayagraj Kumbh Mela a little easier.

How to get to Prayagraj Kumbh Mela: The Bamrauli airport connects with a few domestic destinations in India. The train station, Allahabad (the old cities name) is also well served from main stations including express trains. Otherwise, many buses ply the routes to Prayagraj. Just be aware that the traffic is insane, especially on peak days, so plan and allow for this. Forward planning is KEY to having a good Kumbh experience.

How to get around the Prayagraj Kumbh Mela: Much of your time at the Kumbh will be spent exploring on foot, as it really is the only option. Rickshaws, e-rickshaws and bikes are available, but be aware they have restrictions on where they can drive during the festival.

Where to stay in Prayagraj during the Kumbh Mela: Tent cities are erected across the city in various comfort classes. I stayed in one of the more luxurious tent cities, but this was on the other side of the river to the main points, although there were Kumbh festivities everywhere. You can actually find these tent cities and book them on sites such as booking.com, etc.

Where to go after the Prayagraj Kumbh Mela: Head off and explore more of the Uttar Pradesh region, such as Lucknow and Varanasi. For those seeking the iconic, the Taj Mahal is in Agra, also in the region, and is a great place to begin the famous India Golden Triangle tour of Agra, Jaipur and Delhi.

Bathing: After a lot of consideration, I decided not to take a dip. Partly because it was not my place but also because of the water quality. The Yamuna River, in particular, is noted for its pollution and effects on those not used to it, so do your homework and be informed if you decide to bathe or not.

Accessibility at the Prayagraj Kumbh Mela: The area is very busy, and bridges, roads and dust paths can be uneven although there aren’t many stairs and some of the temporary toilets are designated for disability access.